Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rattle Or Clunking Behind Rear Seat
Jun 21, 2016
2004 super crew. It is not the seat belt. Can I unsnap the seat to get back there?
View 4 Replies2004 super crew. It is not the seat belt. Can I unsnap the seat to get back there?
View 4 RepliesWhen going around 48mph clunking sound comes from rear end. seems like it does that when you are trying to maintain that speed. Also have had 7 window regulators to go bad on have 1 working window 4 bad now replaced the same one 3 times. Called Ford they said no complaints have come in about the window issue on 2004 trucks...
View 1 Replies05 F150 2WD 4.6 LWB, The rear end whines when letting off the gas and makes a clunk or 2 when taking off and a clunk when I stop. It has 277.000 Miles? Or is it just time for another rear end...
View 3 RepliesMy 05 f150 is lift with a 6" skyjacker lift I've only had it a week from the dealership when it stopped firing on cylinder 8 which is a lil problem easy to fix,but then it started clunking around turns in the front and rear end. So I took it the dealer and 3 days later they give it back. It's running good but its still clunking in the front they said they changed the cv joints and tie rod ends but after I got home. I inspected it they changed one damn tie rod and that was it. Is it the tie rod end that's still making the noise?
View 1 Replies06' F150 4x4 XLT SCrew 29K-mi
I have a rattle of some sort I can hear coming from underneath towards the rear while under acceleration. Usually hear mostly at certain RPM and not through entire accel to hwy speed. Do not hear it while in Park and reving engine, but on the road I hear it. Mostly I think after it gets hot or something.
No driveability issue only rattle? While I was reving in Park I could hear a bubbling after I let off the pedal. Is that normal. I don't think it is the same noise/rattle.
My uncle has an 05 F150 extended cab. When he bought it he put his license plate in the rear window until he could get some bolts for it. When it was there it fell between the back of the rear seat and the back of the cab. Currently he has one plate on the rear, but is worried he will get stopped for not having a front plate installed. So he knew I am an FTE member and I could find out how to remove the seat back. I have not tried to remove it nor seen if I could reach it.
View 4 RepliesI have a '95 Chevy 6.5 Turbo-Diesel Pickup. The past few days there has been a whining noise that went up and down with the speed of the vehicle. I decided to have it looked at this coming week when I have a day off but when I was driving home last night the whining stopped and was replaced with a clunking. It sounds like a pair of running shoes that have been thrown in a clothes dryer. When it clunks loudly there is a shake that can be felt through the floor and seat. I now have it parked until I can find out what is going on and if it is safe to drive to the mechanic or if I should have it towed.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2010 Lexus RX 350 with 27K on the odometer. Since around the 15K mile mark I've been dealing with rear seat rattles, and that's a nice way of putting it. When I drive over the wonderfully pocked marked roads of Los Angeles, the rear seats vibrate, rattle and clang as if they are coming apart. I replicated the noise for the service guys at my local dealer. To their credit they replaced the track locating pins on the rear seats.
Unfortunately, that made things worse. The car rattles and clangs more than before. It has gotten so bad that I am considering selling a car which I bought outright just 2 years ago. By the way, I have already ruled out common sources of rattle complaints like the trunk cover.
MK6 gti/golf ... I recently found a new *metal* type rattle coming from my rear seat on the passenger side no one seemed to have the fix for it online, so i decided to hunt for the rattle. found it and the fix is very easy. There are 3 possible repairs:
Repair 1 steps:
1) release the rear seat clips, 2 slide in clips in the front, just pull up, and then the 2 rear hooks by pushing the seat back and up motion to unhook.
2) fold the carpet over on the passenger side and you will find the fuel tank access lid
3) pull the grommet with the wires going through it out, i also wrapped the module sitting in the pocket of the lid with cloth tape/ felt tape
4) pull up on the plastic lid. (you might break a tap or two of the lid you can easily secure the lid down with sound deadening or dum dum)
5) first thing you see is a black and blue fuel line ( mine were touching each other making a rattle noise) and if u were to shake the lines they would rattle farther in against the body
6) take piece of rubber hose (i used a type of fuel line i had at work) cut one side of the rubber hose so u can fit it over the line.
7) slide the rubber piece over both lines and push it in as far as you need, untill the line does not hit the body or make a rattle type noise.
8) place one more piece where the two lines touch
9) re assemble the rear seats (seal the lid if you broke any clips. to prevent air noise)
Repair 2:
1) lift car up and locate the top camber bolt on the passenger side. there should be a white plastic evap line. i found mine touching and rattling.
2) cut a piece of rubber hose and slice one side so you can slip it over the line
Repair 3:
1) remove the 10 mm plastic nuts on the plastic cover on the passenger side to reveal the fuel lines and evap lines.
2) found my lines touching
3) place rubbing tubing on all three of the lines
4) re assemble plastic cover and road test car.
You can always add more rubber pieces if needed.
2004 Escape 2wd 6 cylinder 170k miles. Intermittent clunk/rattle sound when hitting bumps while going straight and especially turning right. I felt a slight bumping in passenger side floor board. Inspected everything. All looks good and tight- no signs of loose hardware, worn ball joints or tie rods. Only thing I noticed was a slight rub mark (missing paint) on the lower control arm under the sway bar on drivers side. And noticed the rear bushings on the control arms are tearing.
Not collapsing but with the tire removed and suspension hanging at full droop you can see tears in that rear bushing on both sides. We painted the arm and sway bar in the rubbing location to see if it makes a mark there again after driving it a few days. Question is do you think that the rear control arm bushings could be allowing enough movement to contact the sway bar or make the noise? The bolts are tight. Has newer Moog struts and newer swaybar end bushings, possibly sway bar hold down bushings too- (they look pretty good).
I tried to search for this, so I might be alone here, had a rattling noise coming from the right rear seat / seatbelt area?
View 24 RepliesI have a rattle coming from the third row seats when they are in the stored position. It is mainly when I hit rough roads and uneven terrain.
View 7 RepliesI've got a clunk in the front end....replaced all the ball joints......checked the sway bar......checked the tie rods......can't find anything wrong...... Shocks go bad and clunk???
View 14 RepliesI've been living with a mild "clunk" or "bump" in the drive train when I would first begin to accelerate from a full complete stop. It would only happen after a complete stop. It almost felt like it could be normal, but it seemed to be getting worse over time.
At first I thought it was my transmission...but after some internet searching I found some threads talking about the slip yoke on the drive shaft being the cause. In that the slip yoke needs to be pulled apart and re-lubed.
Anyway, I thought I'd post and let eveyone know that after pulling the slip yoke and re-lubing with grease my issue is solved! The "clunk" is totally gone. 100% Smooth now. If has this issue I'd highly recommend re-lubing the slip yoke.
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On my 2004 F-150 SuperCrew, all I needed to do was remove the drive shaft at the rear differential (4 bolts, use 12mm 12 point socket or wrench). Then remove the FRONT clamp on the slip yoke boot. Then slide out the rear 1/2 of the drive shaft. Be sure to mark the drive shaft orientation with the rear differential flange and the slip yoke before you remove the drive shaft to ensure you put it back together correctly.
Re-lube the slip yoke, then slide it back together and reinstall the four bolts at the rear differential. Torque spec is 76 ft-lbs. I used Valvoline FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY moly grease that I purchased at my local AutoZone. You'll also need to install a new band clamp around the rubber slip yoke boot. I got mine from AutoZone.
Here are some links I found with pictures showing how to do this. Both procedures below are on SuperDuties but its basically the same procedure. Just follow my specific details above for the 2004-2008 F-150
Slip joint regreasing
2004 F250 Slip Yoke Service
I got a horrible clunking/knocking in the front end of my pickup this morning, jerking the steering wheel like a flat tire, and after a couple miles it stopped..... bearing ???
View 7 RepliesI've read alot of info about the 4WD system on the F150's, and I'm having trouble diagnosing what might be going on with mine.
When I put my truck in 4HI (or 4LO), I get a popping sound that seems to come from the front middle/front drivers side when going at speeds around 20-25 and over. I don't experience any loss in traction (that I can tell) or power, but the popping is very loud and noticeable (passengers can hear it clearly).
My problem is a little different than most, as their issues with popping seem to happen when they are not in 4WD, where mine is only when in 4WD. I replaced the IWE solenoid today (wanted to anyway to get the updated casing/shroud) and the problem stayed. I also disconnected the vacuum lines at the solenoid and drove - no noise. I then kicked in 4WD on the switch, and the noise started, which leads me to think it is not vacuum related.
I am kind of lost as to what may be going on. I would think something where teeth broke, etc. would make noise all the time in 4WD, not intermittently or at certain speeds. The noise sounds almost like popcorn popping. I went up the same hill about a dozen times today, and it happened maybe 5-6 times. I don't hear it often (if at all) with speeds below 20 MPH. I can switch in and out of 2WD, 4HI, and 4LO all day with no issues, as well.
The only modifications to the front end have been a 2.5 inch leveling kit, and the only other issues I notice in the front end is a shaking when on the highway, that seems to go away after a while of driving at the same speed. I recently had a front end alignment, and the only thing the tech mentioned was that I will need ball joints in the next 6-8 months (but he said they weren't bad).
Recently when I leave my driveway which only has a slight grade to it my truck makes a clunking sound when I hit the gutter and while turning slightly. Also my front drive line from transfer case to front axle has some play in it. I can rotate the front drive line about 3/4" to an 1" while parked in the driveway. Changing u joints. I figured this would be a good starting point. 2005 XLT 4x4 5.4L F150.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 F150 FX4 and after having the 4x4 go out and replaced the front right IWE have fixed the 4x4 but still hearing a clunking noise.
The clunking noise started after the 4x4 went out and was really bad for awhile and then went away and has now come back really bad. It sounds like its coming from the front driver's side wheel area and clunks as fast as the wheel turns.(faster = more clunks).
I'm very new to mechanic stuff but enjoy learning and fixing things myself.
So my truck is making a kind of a clunk noise in the trans area does it between 30-50mph does it more often when cruise control is on but still does it from time to time when it's off. What it could be?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 2WD supercab. And am hearing a 'clunking' sound when I turn almost full-lock. Below is a summary of what I have experienced so far:
- My truck used to be lowered 2" (below stock) at the front since new. Last month I lifted it (front and rear) and it now sits 2" above stock on new rancho shocks.
- I installed a camber kit and had the front aligned (toe and camber) after the above suspension work.
- The truck drove beautifully for two weeks until one day a 'clunking' sound was heard from the front-left every time I turned left. The alignment also changed as I had to now hold the steering very slightly to the left to drive straight.
- The alignment shop re-did the toe tracking (the camber did not change) and the truck drove great for about a day. Now I can hear the same clunking sound when I turn right and the tracking is again screwed up meaning I need to hold the steering very slightly to the right to drive straight.
What parts are playing up and what may need replacing?
I installed my hks ssm yesterday,it sounded great except for a clunking noise every time i pass by an uneven road...i found out that the hks pipe was hitting "the round thing next to the shocks" ... that's why the oem muffler had a little round stopper.. I tried to wrap it with a little exhaust wrap thinking it would fix it but it did'nt, just wondering if there's a DIY or something for this problem.
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