Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rattle From Engine Area When Let Off Gas While In Traffic Or In A Drive-through
Jan 30, 2017
My 2008 F150 rattles (from engine area) when I let off gas while in traffic or in a drive-through. It almost feels as though it's going to stall. Drive thru, parking lot, traffic are all examples. "Stop and go" push the gas to move forward and quickly let off gas. I let off the gas there is a large rattle coming from my engine. Not sure if it's miss-firing or if it's an exhaust leak or a timing chain issue. I'm having trouble trying to figure this out because it does not happen all the time and have been unable to re-create when I go to the mechanic.
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I have a 97 GTP. When I am at idle, I get a very loud rattling noise coming from the drive belt area of the engine. The noise goes away when you rev the engine up, but returns immediately when idling. I removed the supercharger belt assembly, and then noise still occurs. This just started tonight out of the blue, and It is extremely loud.
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I have a 2004 FX4 and have a very annoying rattle up in the driver's side dash area near the windshield. This happens every time it gets to be winter. The odd thing is, that it will sometimes go away but when I hit an uneven surface such as a railroad crossing, I hear a loud "pop" near that area. Then it will rattle non stop. I don't know if it is the wiper cowling area or what? IMO Ford's design of that area is crap.
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I have a 2002 Corolla with a 1.8Liter 1zzfe engine.
I can hear a loud "rattle" at 1950 rpm from the drive belt area whether I'm driving down the street or if I rev it up while parked in neutral. It's not a tapping sound, more like a sheet metal rattle but I can't locate an loose sheet metal.
I thought it might have been the drivebelt tensioner. The plastic bushing on the small bolt cracked to pieces and I simply replaced it with a stack of washers. That's the bolt at the top of the piston that screws into the valve cover. I replaced the tension but still hear that rattle. I tried to locate it with a stethoscope but no luck.
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I have a 2003 Volvo C70 that I've owned since 2004. In February, I ordered struts for the front with all the trimmings, (spring seat, strut mount, bump stop, etc) from FCP Euro. The struts were Sachs 553-058, which are supposed to be as good if not better than the original struts. I installed them myself, meticulously following the instructional video FCP publishes on YouTube. Installation went very smoothly. Afterwards, I noticed a rattle/knock coming from the right front when I drove over a bump or rough area.
I took it to a local tire/brake place that I have a good bit of confidence. After driving the car, the guy says, "You gotta bad strut!" Called FCP. They sent me a new strut. I installed it and sent the other back. Sounded a LOT better—for about two weeks. Now I am hearing the sound on both sides. I took it to a very reputable Volvo mechanic, I have used since the warranty expired. He drove it, confirmed the sound was not normal. We put it on the lift and he checked everything on the front suspension and was stumped. He said there was nothing wrong with my installation, no problem with the suspension.
Okay, FCP has an unconditional satisfaction guarantee, so I could replace these with a more expensive strut for say $50 more, but is the problem with the struts? I would hate to have to do this installation again and still have the same problem.
'03 C70 Convertible LT110,000 mileswell-maintained, great-running car
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-15 degrees at 7:30 this morning and my F-150 4.6L started just fine. At 9:30 and -6 engine would turn over well but wouldn't start. When I shut the key off, I would hear a "vibration" from the area of the instrument panel and the speedometer needle would shake for about 15 seconds then quit. At 1:30 the truck started fine but the trip odometer had rest to 0.0. What happened and where to start looking?
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My truck is a 2004 (new body style) 4.6L XL Supercab 4x4, trans code A, which I believe is the 4R75W transmission. I bought the truck used last year with 110k miles on it and it still only has 115k now. I think the problem with the trans was there when I bought it (it's highly intermittent) which may be the reason why the PO traded it in, because the truck is in excellent shape and has clearly been well cared for in all other regards.
The problem only occurs after having let up off the accelerator pedal for a while and coasting, then getting back on the gas without coming to a complete stop, like one might do coasting downhill or coming up to a light that turns green before you come to a stop. When that happens it feels like the transmission has shifted into neutral and the engine revs up freely for a second or two and then suddenly engages and clunks / slams into drive. This doesn't happen every time that I attempt to reproduce it, and it went for the entire summer without doing it once. But, now that winter is coming on in New England I find that it is doing it again once in a while. The problem seems to happen whether overdrive is engaged or not.
I've checked fluid level and condition and both are fine. Nice bright red color and no burnt smell. The transmission works well in all other ways except for this one issue. With the exception of this problem it seems to be engaging, driving and shifting perfectly, with no slipping, even when giving it a good romp, with or without 4x4 engaged, or even carrying a heavy load, causes no problems.
To me, this seems like a control problem of some kind, doesn't it? If it was mechanical or hydraulic I wouldn't expect it to only occur after coasting for a while.
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Maybe a week or so ago my F's sunroof at high speeds (65-80) has started rattling. Sounds like there is something loose, and it is clanking on another part. I will be taking it to a dealership or auto shop to have it repaired, or fixing it myself if it is something minor. And its not just a one off rattle, it is constant when at those speeds. Had a two hour drive yesterday and it was driving me crazy.
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Dodge Grand Caravan 2000 3.0L
First, sometimes the engine began shuts off. When the drive up to the traffic lights. When sharply throw gas pedal. When the engine speed is less than 2000. If you release the gas pedal, you will see that the tachometer needle drops below 500 rpm and the engine stalls. This happened happened two or three days all right. And sometimes a day, 3-4 times shuts off. Then ringing under the hood.
Was the flywheel. I remove the transmission and replace the flywheel. More repair parking brake pedal. So it turns analyzed under the panel. I have a new problem. After repair. I driving my Dodge week. And once. After an overnight stay the machine, on morning the engine not start. I checked the spark. The spark is. I removed the fuel hose. and there is no pressure. Just a little bit of fuel.
I decided that this is the fuel pump. I took off his tank, bought a new fuel pump. The pump has not changed. Today I decided to apply voltage to the old pump, it still stands in the tank. It works. Buzzing. Then I decided to check the voltage on the connector. I turned on the ignition. The instrument appears briefly on 12 volts. They are only momentary. Now I think there should always be 12 volts? Fuel tank removed. All hoses are disconnected. Not really the problem in the fuel pump? How to troubleshoot? Where can I get the wiring diagram?
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OK, 05 v8 4.6l
I am having very random overheating for last few weeks. Started randomly one day in stop n go traffic. Thought maybe struck tstat so replaced it. Same thing...replaced water pump, fan clutch, serpentine belt, coolant reservoir cap since then. During all those replacement I flushed system with garden hose. Burped system to best of my knowledge. Still overheats randomly. Seems to happen every day now at hot times (100*). I drive around all day for work so been watching it closely. Temp gun runs 190* on tstat housing at operating temp. When it was rising up in temp I pulled over and temp gun read 200 ish.... it is in fact getting hot. Any freaking clues? Oh and have pressure tested good....combustion test good...
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My 4 cylinder Tacoma vibrates a lot when it is idling, especially sitting in "drive" at traffic lights. My regular mechanic has tried various things to remedy it but none has really worked. He suggested the valves may need to be adjusted. Is this plausible? Or is he off-base? And is it really expensive?
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I have a 2007 Ford Expedition with approx 135k miles with a 5.4. At approx 45 miles per hours it starts shaking and shuttering. It feels almost like you ran over one of those traffic bumps. I've had quite a few issues I've been working so I recently changed all my plugs with motorcraft platinum and all new COPs.
When I am going approx 45 miles per hour it will shutter for about 1-2 seconds with overdrive on. You can almost time it that it will do it every 4 seconds. With overdrive off, you can feel something dragging down the engine and hear a light grinding noise or a mechanical sound but the shuttering is less. I feel there is something definitely cycling approx every 4 seconds.
When i am doing heavy acceleration I feel that it has adequate power and now that I've replace the plugs/cops I don't feel any significant misses etc under hard acceleration (before I changed the plugs/cops I did feel misses).
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I have weird sound from the engine bay area when i accelerate. Some describe this sound as "pop rocks in a soda can", "rattling of metal washers" or "fast ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-". I read all the posts and apparently its the TSI engine's turbo's waste gate which is not replaceable because its riveted on to the turbo (FSI's turbo's waste gate was apparently bolted on) is responsible for the noise.
I thought something was loose in my engine bay. I thought it was just MY CAR, so I planned on mentioning it when i go in for my first oil change, but I ran into this thread and figured out that it is a widespread "annoyance" (not a "problem" because VW claims that this noise is "normal").
This noise comes in around 2400rpm~3000rpm on my car if you give it around 1/3 ~1/2 throttle. This noise can be replicated on my car on all the gears pretty much (i have DSG fyi) with the windows rolled up. (if you cant make it out, try rolling down the window)
The noise sounds horrible! (to me at least). It's like I am driving something that's put together poorly and it is also quite embarrassing when you have a passenger with you...
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I drive a 2008 Cobalt SS turbo. its been a good car and I haven't had any major problems with it aside from the small stuff.
Well for the past few months I've noticed that, whenever i drive in heavy rain or in snow etc I will get a loud Growling/whining noise from the transmission area. Now it will do it while in Neutral, 1st etc and when stopped it will go away. If I stop the car for a few moments, the noise goes away until I hit another puddle and then it comes back again.
I also feel a "knocking" in the shifter and I've noticed its vibrated really badly for awhile now.
the caveat to this is it ONLY does it when its wet outside. I've taken it to GM a few times, and even showed the service manager the issues when it was raining out and he said everything was fine. The car never did it when I first purchased it.
I should include that there are some aftermarket modifications on the car. Catless downpipe, new intercooler, lowering springs. stock exhaust and stock turbo.
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Rattling noise in the belt area of the engine...
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I have a 1988 VW scirocco with 39,000+ miles 16v with a rattle that seems to be coming from the engine area. Here's what I've observed...while driving down the road when I let off the gas pedal, there's a rattle that sounds like a loose part inside the engine. It happens when going down hill and sometimes on flat areas, not while going up hills. The car is a manual trans. I recently had the gaskets replaced and all fluids flushed as well as a tune-up.
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I have a rattle coming from the back hatch area. I sat in the back seat while someone else drove and it sounds like it's coming from under the drivers side plastic side molding in the back hatch.
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I am getting a grinding sound from the left front wheel while driving straight.. The sound stays the same when brakes are applied and does not change when selecting 4wd or 2wd.. I pulled the wheel off and had a look, but saw nothing unusual.. What are the steps to diagnose/repair the issue? 2004 F-150 5.4 4x4
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So my 04 FX4 with only 55000 miles is finally starting to rattle. I change the oil more often than necessary, use Motorcraft 5-20 syn blend and a Motorcraft oil filter. The big question is...
What happens if you let it tick away and don't fix it? Beside the noise, what can happen? Will they actually break? Freeze up in the wrong spot and shove a valve into a piston?
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I have a rattle in my 2004 Lariat crew cab with sunroof. The sound seemed to come from the rear seat, but I finally tracked it down to to roof of the cab. The back dome light (and interior roof) has sagged some and I guess it's the dome light or wires are rattling when driving.
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04 F150 4.6 ltr Has a tinny rattle during acceleration . Sounds like 2 hammerheads in a washing machine....
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