Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Random Misfires In Almost Every Cylinder
Apr 26, 2016
I have an 05 Lariat with 145k miles on it. About a month ago I had a misfire code on one cylinder. Since then it's gone from once every couple of days, various cylinders. To now every day. I've had to continue driving it but the last few days it's gotten bad and I hope I didn't do any more damage(cats) but I didn't have a whole lot of choice. I've read every thread I can find and haven't found an exact match. It seems to be worse first thing in the morning, it will be down on power for a few seconds then clear up. It may not return for another 10 or 15 minutes and then cough a little and clear up.
Sometimes it will start at the beginning of a hill and not clear up until I'm back on flat, sometimes it will lose power at the top. There is zero predictability to it. I have had codes on almost every cylinder, but no single one has dominated the problem. Twice when it has been real bad I have also gotten a lean code 0174. It had new Motorcraft plugs 25000 miles ago and has run fine until recently. The ticking isn't too bad but I think I'm going to try thicker oil for the summer. It's been a while since I did the fuel filter and since it probably isn't a bad idea I'm going to do that today.
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Ok so I have the 2009 f150 4.6l 2wd. Have random misfire codes. Horrid idle. I replaced all of the spark plugs, coil packs, and even the injectors on 1/3/4. Still codes nothing is better. I'm thinking maybe an intake manifold leak,? I see no real signs but I do hear that little pop pop pop. Now I have a gasket kit for it but I see you can order complete manifold kits with thermostat and gaskets on amazon for like 60 bucks more. The issue is I see none that fit my truck. Is it the same as the mustang? Hate to blow more cash as its adding up.
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I have 11 tiguan 2.0T. When I start it up is runs rough below 1200 rpm. The check engine light starts flashing. The codes are all 4 cylinders for random cylinder misfire. When I go drive it around the roughness calms down but doesn't go away and the idle will start jumping up and down. It goes to 1500 back to 800. Then 1700 back to 800. It had even hit 2400 once. I have changed the pcv about 2 months ago. I checked it and it looks fine. One place said maf. I cleaned it and no change. Running out of options.
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I've got a 2009 Tiguan with 65k miles on it. A few weeks ago I noticed some issues with running rough during a cold start. I only noticed because the engine would vibrate considerably more than usually for the first few minutes of operation, and would idle at around 1050-1100rpm instead of the usual 750rpm. After warm up, things were fine. Suddenly the issue got bad real fast - wife was out and the MIL light came on, EPC light came on, and the car was running extremely rough. We managed to drive it home (2 miles) doing under 20 the whole time on side streets. Once I hooked it up to my OBD reader, I was seeing cylinder misfire codes on all four cylinders.. P0300, P0301..P0304, all five codes simultaneously.
Since the car was due for an oil change and hit 65k miles recently, I decided to throw new plugs in there to see if that would work. It did, at first.. A day or two it ran completely fine, no rough starts, no misfires, I thought I had solved the problem. The old plugs had some deposits on them and were original, so I thought I was in the clear. Two days later, same thing happened again.. EPC light, barely running and misfires on all four cylinders..
I read up some online and decided to order new ignition coils. Took a few days, but I got four new coils and threw them in. Again, problem solved it seemed. No more EPC light, misfire codes didn't come back and no more rough starts. I drove a good 40 miles with no problems at various speeds, but started noticing some misfires during acceleration (slightly rough acceleration, almost feels like a back and forth rocking motion, very slight). Sure enough, after a cold start I'm seeing the engine run a bit rough again with misfires. This time, only P0304 (misfire on cylinder 4) is thrown, and it only shows up as a "pending code" (engine light flashes for a few moments during start, but does not stay on).
I checked my connections, swapped the plugs and coils in what I thought were cylinders 3 and 4 (closer to the driver side), nothing. I swapped what I think are cylinder 1 and 2 (passenger side) just to be sure, but still nothing. At this point I'm pretty lost. I know enough to be dangerous with a carbureted engine, but am lacking in knowledge when it comes to a fuel injected turbo charged VW engine. It seems to be cylinder 4 misfiring consistently at this point according to the OBD reader.
Also of note.. I had some misfire problems last year, and had my intake manifold replaced as part of a recall (also had carbon deposits removed at the same time). Can a carbon build up occur this fast? Can it be the injectors?
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I left the key on and drained my auxiliary battery(It was weak before) and when I jumped it it started and then shut off after ~20 seconds. I tried various different things and all I succeeded in doing was draining my HV battery from starting it so many times. So I disassembled the pack and recharged it and now it starts and runs but it is misfiring. It throwing 4 codes:
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P1305: Ignition Coil 2 Primary Feedback Circuit
I inspected the igniters and plugs and they seem to be OK and I'm not sure where to look next. I'm not sure if the battery issue is related or not but I did replace the auxiliary battery.
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We've got a 2006 F150 with a 5.4 in it. One of the new kids was told to change the spark plugs, then when I went to start the truck the next day it was missing bad. Plugged in the Ford IDS, number 7 cylinder is dead. Only codes are for that cylinder misfire, and random miss on startup. So, I double checked the kids work and it was all fine. Tried putting a new plug in, didn't work. Moved the coil to a different cylinder to see if the miss would jump, stayed on number 7.
Used a noid light to verify COP harness was working, and it was. Put a new coil on it anyway since I had one, still missing. Used noid light to verify signal going to injector for the cylinder. Signal was good, replaced the injector for the cylinder. Still misfiring. Ran a compression test and the cylinder has good compression. The threads for the plug are fine, not cross threaded or torn out. The only thing I can think is that the PCM has gone bad in a way that its firing the injector/COP, but doing so at the wrong time some how.
Every other cylinder is running fine, O2 sensors fine. PCM isn't trimming anything back to account for anything, and if it was it would do it to multiple cylinders to keep the engine balanced. Cant think of any more tests, and I don't believe there is anyway that the airflow could be restricted to only 1 cylinder, but I could be wrong. Wanna try and solve this to keep from sending it to the dealer.
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I have a 2004 f-150 5.4 Trition v8 and recently i had misfires on 5 and 6 come up. After I changed out the coils and injectors on all the cylinders the misfire would still come up.
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2005 Prius 195k miles, oil changes every 5k +/- 500 (usually minus), new plugs at about 187k, TSBs for coolant loop done, coolant valve for ICE replaced on my dime, replaced aux battery in 2010. Transaxle fluid changed at 100k and 190k due to noise, but that is another post.
I mostly do my own work because, in general, I find dealerships to charge too much (like one hour to change the aux battery) or not competent (like changing the traction battery under warranty but leaving the seat belt behind the panel or not resetting the maintenance light during 5k Toyota covered maintenance)
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Truck Specs:
2008 f250 super duty 5.4l
78xxx miles
4x4
Automatic
Issue:
P0300 (random misfire detected)
P0307 (cylinder 7 misfire)
Let's start from the beginning...
I was getting the notorious 5.4l ticking sound. After doing research on this issue. I found that it could be a few different issues including:
Cam Phasers
VCT solenoid(s)
Loud injectors
Valves
Exhaust leak
Loose spark plug
The list could possibly go on, but these being top concerns or issues to look into.
I took it to my mechanic and wanted him to research the ticking problem. This was my primary concern due to it was getting worse over time. I didn't want to do more damage than what was possibly already done. I told him to go ahead and change the spark plugs while you're checking into what's going on. (I know those plugs can break and I didn't want to do that.)
At any rate... the plugs got changed to motocraft brand (I know the trucks can be finicky with the parts you put back into them so I went with the motocrafts to avoid any complications.) After the plugs were changed, he told me that the ticking was caused from a blown exhaust manifold gasket (yay me... not internal parts or anything too serious. Sweet!)
I had to reschedule to get the gasket done, but knowing what it was now I wasn't too concerned about driving it. So I did. The new plugs are also in the truck at this time. I drove it the next day and right away.. I noticed a misfire. Thought maybe the plug was bad. I told my mechanic about it and he said... Sounds like a COP to me.
So I get a new COP. Okay.. easy fix. Installed it and still got a misfire. Told my mechanic and he said get another COP. So I'm thinking.. "Okay.. get a new part to fix a new part.. sounds logical.. lol" so I do what he thinks might be best. I replace the COP with another new one and it's still misfiring. The new cops are also motocraft brand as well.
Okay... next step.. he claims it may be a VCT solenoid issue. At this point I don't care.. I just want my truck fixed. So he replaces the driver side solenoid. Still misfiring..
So after doing some research on the scanner... we locate some issues that are the exact symptoms I'm having. Misfire.. at low rpm.. during cruise control.. and a sudden at idle.
This information states for this drivability issue.. to spray injector cleaner/carb cleaner into the engine and possibly clean it out. Makes sense. He did this as well as changed the fuel filter. Also did a pressure test on the injectors to make sure they were good. They were. After spraying and cleaning it out, it was taken for a test drive and it seemed okay... but not perfect. The next day.. the misfire came back.
He said that if the misfire returns, that I need to contact the dealership and see if there is a pcm update. The dealership said there probably is but can't tell me until the computer is hooked up to it. (Of course there is a charge when it's hooked up) again.. whatever.. I just want it fixed. The truck is scheduled to go in next Wednesday for that. If that doesn't fix it, my mechanic said cam phasers possibly bUT still not sure for sure..
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I have a 2000 crown vic, police interceptor..... 1st.. car started idling rough had the codes read gave misfire on 4 . So we had the boots and spark plugs replaced. Car ran fine for like 3 days then engine light came on again.. running rough... code read misfire in 8 so had the coils on 4 and 8 replaced... ran fine for all of 2 weeks. Again engine light came on... now showing a misfire on 7, but car runs fine..??. Anyways I noticed my battery gauge was marking a really low charge... but as soon as I would get on highway it would jump back up to normal...
It did this for a couple weeks, then I noticed the gauge was marking really low car was losing power... I have a new battery and alternator on car already. But still I had them tested; both tested fine... Then car kept stalling at stop signs ans red lights went ahead and exchanged alternator 4since its under warranty anyway. This cause the charge gauge was reading normal.. but car still kept dying... so replaced fuel filter... didn't replaced tps and mass air flow sensors too...but it still keeps dying on me. Now codes are coming up misfires on 4&8! Why does my car keep stalling and what would cause these random misfires especially when these coils have been replaced already???
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06 F150 fx4 has cly 7 miss fire cly 6 has oil on plug .Check engine light comes on only if you step into the gas, The oil was low. If you drive normal the check engine light does not come on, but you can fill the miss when in gear. Change the plugs an coil add oil still no change.
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I have a 2005 F150 with 5.4 and have been having increasing random misfires. This is MUCH more pronounced when the engine is warm, and I can certainly count on it to happen when under load, either accelerating or whatever. If I am forced to remain stopped for any extended period of time, such as waiting in line at a drive through, then start to drive again, the problem seems to increase exponentially, and is most pronounced in the 1300 - 1900 RPM range. If I take the overdrive off in order to put the rev's above 2000, it eases the problem, but does not eliminate it. The issue is much LESS pronounced when first starting driving, it seems to be most prominent only after it warms up.
So far, the only codes I have ever seen is random misfires, and only once has the code gone solid in the ECM. Usually, if I back off load for a minute, it clears up on it's own and the flashing code light clears .... If I attempt to accelerate hard, even when cold, the misfires get really bad and I can always expect a hard code soon afterwards ...... needless to say, I have no real power at any time, and my fuel efficiency is beyond bad (best I can get is about 11 mpg) ....
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Well, just picked the truck up from the dealer. Had to pay for the shudder diagnosis which turned up a #8 misfire as well as lesser random misfires on the mode 6 test (no CEL) since it out of B2B warranty. Also brought up the transmission issue I have been having. Virtually every morning when I go to pull out of the driveway, when I put the truck in park it was quite violently slamming into gear, even if I let it idle long enough to drop the neutral RPM's.
Service writer was a bit baffled, but after touching base with their driveline technician, and verifying it was in no way similar to how any other F150 engages they were able to locate TSB 11-11-11 which, to me, seems primarily concerned with the harsh 1-2 and 2-3 shifting but also noted the harsh engagement.
Anyways, they squeezed me in over night and in 2 days had my parts in and installed (apparently on these trucks they have to physically get the numbers off the solenoids to be replaced as there are a couple options). 3 solenoids tested bad and were replaced under the powertrain warranty. Truck did not slam when I picked it up, looking forward to testing tomorrow morning!
The best part is that when the tech went to drive the truck in this morning to start working it not only slammed into gear for him (verifying my concern) but it also demonstrated the violent 1-2 upshift. Too bad they couldn't push a spark plug through warranty, guess I'll have to wait for my Rockauto order to come in
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I have 62,500 on my 08 Santa Fe... never had any engine problems, but today, started the vehicle, drove 1/2 mile in town at 25 mph, turned a corner and the vehicle shuttered and lost driving power. At the same time, the check engine light came on and flashed continuously. I drove 1/2 block (around two corners in town) with the on/off studder and loss of power. I pumped the accelerator just to keep it from killing. As I stopped at the next corner and idled the vehicle regained power. I pulled over and called the dealership service department and they recommended I drive it home (blocks away) and turn the engine off, then try to restart it and if it started drive it 30 miles to dealership.
Did that, engine light came on steady and vehicle had full power. Long and short... the code was P0300 Random CYL Miss Fire Fault (random cylinder miss fire). After scanning the vehicle, test driving it and inspecting it as they do, they could not find a source of the problem or duplicate it. They cleared the code and promised that if it happened again they would credit me the $90 diagnostic fee I paid today for them to find nothing and apply it to a problem they couldn't find. They were willing to try and warranty it even though it is 2,500 over warranty if it had needed parts. Has this cylinder misfire happened to any of you? I've never had a problem like this really go away, so I'm expecting it will show up again. Also, they want to replace the timing belt (at 60K) as a preventative measure. What do you think? Can I wait till 80K?
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OK. I have a 2005 Passat 1.8t fwd. Tiptronic. 105k
The symptoms i am having is random cylinder misfires on all 4 cylinders. I have scanned with vagcom multiple times and get the same codes. However, I have cleared the codes, and wen fpd a 60 mile drive on the turnpike. Not a single code. So everything is perfect as long as the car dissent have a chance to idle.
I have also driven the car while logging misfires and only get misfires at idle. Never while driving.
So much has been done to the car that is so hard to decide where to start. Ill try to go in order of events.
All this in the past 4 weeks by the way.
Took car to very experienced VW tech. Found out.timing was off by 3 degrees. So new timing belt, water pump and all. Started car, still had misfires. Noticed wetness on head gasket. And did a compression test. Very bad results. (I can't remember the numbers but they were way off from each other) So he removed the head. He said there was a crazy amount of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. Everything was cleaned, head inspected for bent valves and everything looked perfect after cleaning. (this car has NEVER overheated by the way) He said it is very rare for a head gasket to fail on 1.8t's . So he did a leakdown test and turned out the piston rings were shot. So engine was rebuilt. All components cleaned of carbon, replaced all parts, bearings with new OEM parts. Pickup tube cleaned along with other oil lines. Turbo was inspected, and I was told it is on its way out but still has life. So that was let go for now. All reassembled and all hoses checked, combi valve cleaned, new k&n filter in stock airbox. So he told me the car is finished after all that. I was excited! Drove the car home 15 min drive, ran great. Parked in my driveway, put it in park and misfires came right back. Called him the next day and brought the car back. He looked over it and replaced the fuel pressure regulator with new. He said it seemed like a fuel starvation issue. Tested fuel pump and it was towards the low end of the proper operation value. So I had a high flow pump sitting at home brand new and I brought it down and put it in. Still misfires but a lot less than before. Also fuel filter was replaced. So next he disconnected the cat And found it was clogged. Replaced with my old Audi one, and it ran fine. And this is the first time the car idled good enough to get all the monitors set for emissions testing. So he was convinced it was fixed. Room it for a test drive and came back, parked And began misfiring again. So I was so sick of this thing at this point, I told him to replace the Turbo with brand new OEM unit. And it still misfires.
He swapped a known good throttle body into it and no difference. He also said that he started going around and unplugging sensors and the more sensors he unplugged, the better the car ran. He was curious whether the ECU was faulty. So he put an ECU from his Audi in it which had a ko4 file in it. He said it ran amazing!! So he modified an ECU from a stock Audi and that's what I am driving with now. Still same symptoms. But not as often. Also brand new bosch mass air sensor was installed as well. So this is as far as we have gotten with it and I am so sick of this car right now. But we are both determined to get this thing fixed! And after all the money I have just spent, I can't even get rid of it or I will lose a lot of money. It really sucks because I love the car and so does my wife. And out of the three 1.8t's that I own, I have never had any major issues like this.
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I am getting random misfires on cylinders 4, 5, and 6. Mostly on 6, less on 5, and even less on 4. Cylinders 1-2-3 show ZERO misfires. I am using vag-com to monitor these. Mostly doing it on idle, cruise seems fine but occasionally when shifting I feel it when engaging the next gear. It doesn't buck but I feel a little hesitation. Cruising and accelerating I do not feel it. Its very strange. A couple times during extended idling I have even gotten a flashing CEL. Fuel mileage has been pretty bad ever since I got the car in December. Average tank gets me 250-270.
I tried swapping coils with 123, and the problem stayed on 456. Coils are all new since I got the car. Plugs are fairly new (under 5K) and I pulled a couple to check, they looked fine and gap was about .028. I might try a new set but my gut is telling me the problem is some where else. I would like to verify/test grounds but I don't know where the harness grounds out.
I also want to get a vacuum gauge on the FPR, or check fuel pressure at idle. I replaced one cracked vacuum line, i am thinning there might be others since there seems to be miles of vacuum line on MK4's. Also have a new fuel filter to install, mine appears to be OEM and the car has 97K.
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Besides being spark plugs and wires and/or a bad coil pack, what other things could make it so i have misfires on cylinders 4 and 6? going to replace the plugs and wires later today when they get to my house but i just want to know what other things i could be so I can evaluate the potential repair cost and should the wires for cylinders 4,5, and 6 be under or over the intake manifold? I bought my truck used and they are currently under the manifold i think it would make more sense to have them over personally.
I have a 1997 Ranger 4WD with the 6 cylinder 4.0L engine. I can't remember the codes that it tripped at the moment but i think one might have been the 304 code not sure though.
I tripped the 300,304, and 306 code but don't know about any others i remembered what codes i tripped the other day when i had it scanned
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I know the ignition coil are a big thing but I'm going to be buying this car this week and so I need to see how much less to offer the guy because of this issue. Is there anything other then the ignition coil that it could be? What's worst case scenario? And also would it be ok to drive it home about 60 or so miles with this going on? I'm guessing it's doing the misfires at idle.
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It all started a few months ago.... I started my car, and it started noticeably misfiring, CEL flashing and everything. I scanned it with my vagcom and it came up Cylinder 1 Misfire and Random Multiple misfire. I popped the hood, made sure everything was seated correctly, and shrugged.
Ordered some new wires for it, since it had 80k miles on it with original wires, I figured why not. The misfire didn't come back.
A few weeks later, same thing happened. Misfires, flashing CEL, same codes. I ended up driving it the 5 minutes to work anyways and figured I'd look at it later after I got off.
8 hours later I started it up again, ran like a champ, no CEL on. The problem didn't come up again for 3-4 weeks.
So now, without fail, every month or so, I'll get the same issue. It doesn't matter if it's raining or sunny or cold or warm. But if I let it sit for a few hours, it'll act like it never happened.
Now, I haven't replaced the coil pack yet, simply because it doesn't sound like a coil problem, but I might do it just for the hell of it. New plugs and wires have already been done.
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So I took a trip from Dallas to Florida, and on the way back my check engine light came on. The car shakes at idle, almost like it wants to take off. I drove it back to Dallas like that since the car runs normal on the high way. I got it scanned at autozone and the code said it had multiple random misfires. I'll be taking to the dealer in the morning, but what it could be? The car jumped over 50K during the trip hopefully the dealer will be nice and cover it.
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Car: 2011 VW GTI MkVI
Mileage: 79k
Configuration: Stock
Warranty/Coverage: None
So I started my car last Monday and the check engine light was on. Didn't think much of it because the car ran fine and there were no immediate symptoms. I was busy with work this week, but noticed some changes in the car's performance over time so I waited till Thursday to have it scanned at AutoZone, which threw the following codes:
P 300 Definition: Random Engine Misfire
Explanation: Lean air/fuel ratio
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
P 302 Definition: Cylinder 2 Misfire
Explanation: Vacuum leak on engine
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
P 303 Definition: Cylinder 3 Misfire
Explanation: Vacuum leak on engine
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
Prior to making any purchases I noticed that I started losing some pickup, primarily in lower gears between 2-3k RPM's. Praying that it was somehow just the coils/plugs I bought the R8 pack for both and replaced them this evening. Engine starts up and continues to misfire. I have not had a chance to have it scanned but it would appear it isn't the plugs or coils.
When the plugs were removed, there was an 'oily' substance on the threads, which also seemed like it could have been burnt off fuel or oil pushed up from the cylinder. Also 2 of the plugs seemed looser than the others and didn't feel properly sealed. New R8 install included proper plugs for STOCK application, as I do not run any tuning, and i installed with the appropriate plug grease added lightly to the threads.
I took the car for a spin with the R8 coils/plugs installed to compare it to how the car was doing prior the install. Car misfires and seems fine (relatively) at idle and revving to 2-3k rpm yields NO change. It is almost unable to accelerate up a hill, or go past 30 MPH without the car shaking and any gear higher than 3rd seems not drivable. I feel these are my potential diagnoses before i bring it somewhere and have it looked at.
In Order of Most Likely:
1) Fuel Injectors
2) Air Intake
3) High Pressure Fuel Pump
4) Electronic Leads for the Coils
5) Battery Needs Changed
6) Chain Tensioner Failure
7) Coils and Sparks are all Bad, and I am an idiot
I would prefer to do this work myself and can afford the parts. I just didn't want to be fooling around all month without a mode of transportation to get to and from work.
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