Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Possible Belt Tensioner Pulley Bad
Sep 28, 2015
I have a 2008 F-150 with a 4.6. I have a sequel and I believe it is the belt tensioner pulley and / or the idler pulley above it. Looking for proper procedure to change one or both. It is pretty tight in there. How much stuff do I have to remove to get in there. Should I replace both pulleys at the same time.
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2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
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My tensioner pulley is making noise.I replaced the rear idler pulley (can't get to the front one), but still have the noise. Mention a DIY for replacing the tensioner pulley bearing. A part number for the bearing?
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So from reading around a lot, it seems like the chirping is from the belt tensioner or idler pulley. That said, I've not been able to find anything definitive. I tried to do the water bottle squirt test (from Gates' youtube video) and either I did it wrong or the chirp did not go away implying the issue is not the belt. While I was looking in, I could see the tensioner shaking some.
If my tensioner should not be moving, do I just need the pulley or the pulley and the mount?
- Pulley [URL] ....
- Pulley and mount [URL] ....
Also, if the above items will fix the chirp, which brand would be best?
2007 RX 350, 113K.
Chirping gets worse as it heats up. Seems to happen independent of ambient temperature. Purchased a year ago so unsure of the history of part changes.
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2002 Camry 4 cyl. Can the idler pulley alone be replaced on the serpentine belt tensioner? I noticed a very slight side to side play when I had the belt off. No noise from it. When I looked at rock auto, they sell the whole bracket with the pulley.
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During the 120000km (75000mi) service my Toyota local service said I have a noisy Prius and that the sound is from the belt tensioner bearing.
As I bought it used and always heard the same sound. I've made a video ....
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Looking for how to's out there on how to get all of the fan shrouding removed? I am trying to do my idler and tensioner pulley bearings and those shrouds really make it tough.
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Which way do you turn to loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley to the tensioner arm?
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My tensioner pulley broke yesterday and I replaced it. But it had broken 3-4 months ago also.
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Video : [URL] .....
My 07 Camry V6 (2GR-FE) tensioner pulley is vibrating under load (in D or R). It gets worse with AC on. I checked all 3 pulleys, all have good bearings, and no play. The belt is in good condition, no cracks at all, still looks new. It's got 75,000 miles
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I took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe 2.4. Couple days ago my idler tensioner pulley or whatever its called seized up and took the belt out with it. I got a pulley that resembles it from Autozone mind you that it was the only parts store that had one in stock even Hyundai didnt have the part. The only difference is the hole size for the bolt is about 1/4 inch bigger then the stock pulley. Is there any chance I can get a spacer and make up for the difference?
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One of my belts squeaks. I've tightened one of them as far as it goes I think. The other one is the one with the alternator. Do I tighten the pulley bolt on the alternator to add tension to that one?
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i just recently went to a mechanic check out my wife's car cause it was vibrating really bad, and a pulley was making a lot of noise... they told me that the alternator bearings were shot, and i needed 4 motor mounts, long story short i changed the alternator.... it wasn't the problem... had them check it again, they said power steering.... i didn't want to waist a couple hours of work again, i checked it myself like i should have done in the first place... and found out it was the tensioner pulley.... so can i get any pointers on how to change the tensioner pulley, cause i tried and i lacked about 1/4" of space to get the bolt out... do i need to drop the engine or raise it? if so how.. 2005 suzuki aerio 2.3L .....
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Do the tensioners have an O-ring where they mount to the block? I read a lot about blown tensioner seals...are people talking about the block to tensioner seal or the internal seal between tensioner body and plunger?
Also of course it makes sense to check oil pressure first with real gauge, but if the tensioner seals are toast, then one doesn't really get a good reading until they are replaced.
My dad has an 04 with 90k miles..throwing cam timing codes and you can hear the timing chains stupid noisy at idle. This just happened rather abruptly. Not like the engine oil pressure has been slowly going down due to wear, but like a tensioner seal has finally let go or possibly a guide.
I am thinking about checking the oil pressure before buying the timing components but then realized one truly doesn't know if the low oil pressure is due to blown seal or increased tolerances.
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Its actually on a 2008 E350 with a 5.4 but figured its all the same. There is a squeal that sounds like a bad pulley but its coming from the flexplate or torque converter. I have taken the belt off to verify. I dont see anything psychically wrong like cracks, bends or anything touching. The little I can find on this subject I would say flexplate has a crack somewhere. Transmission shop also can not figure it out. I just want assurance before pulling the transmission in this beast.
Here is a video : [URL]......
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2004 F-150 XLT.... What the thread size and pitch are on the alternator pulley nut? Cant find a replacement nut anywhere and lost the original!
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I noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad. Just want to see some info on diagnosis.
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Doing some charity work on a '04 5.4. Noticed top right idler pulley was sitting on a 45* angle, figured it was shot and decided to replace it. The bolt broke. Borrowed an Easy Out. Short version, I have a very messed up bolt hole. Tried drilling and tapping but couldn't get it to bite and was scared to go bigger. I don't know if the threaded part pulley actually mounts can be replaced and if so how to go about it. Not sure how much deeper I can drill if it can't be replaced? At a standstill.
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My 2007,4.6 is making a whinning noise from the front of the engine around the idler/tensioner/alternator. What I have read it might be a problem with the alternator getting cold, I forgot to mention it's cold up here. Fixed by changing the alternator and did the noise come back as it seems to be a design problem?
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I noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad.
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