Looking for a performance chip i can install for my truck? I have a 2008 ford f150 lariat with a 5.4L triton engine. I'm just looking to increase the horsepower and anything else that is enhanced with the chip installed.
View 14 Replies I am considering chipping my 1.8T ATW 2000 Passat and was wondering if there is any downside on chipping the engine. like reducing the life of the engine or the turbo or less MPG,
Which company should I go for the best quality and if you wanna share a "best practice" prior and post chipping
I have an 2002 7.3 powerstroke. It has a super chips installed, set on heavy tow mode. When throttle is on the foot and I start up a hill check engine light comes on. Code is for icp fault or uncontrollable. Also happens on cruise but more often on the foot. Have to reset to get check engine light off. Light stays off til I go to pull a hill again. I am also pulling a horse trailer with 1-4 horses. Could the programmer be causing this?
View 4 RepliesWhat could cause code P0607 - Control Module Performance?
Truck seems to be driving fine (except it just recently developed what I think is either the cam phaser tick or an exhaust manifold leak on the passenger side).
I haven't tried clearing the code to see if it comes back. This is on a 2006 F150 FX4 with the 5.4L...
I bought the bed extender off my uncles '05 lariat and I got the pivot bolts, but I went to put the bolts on my truck and the middle hole isn't threaded. It has like a metal bushing in there, do I need to tap the hole or what? Also what is the bottom hole for?
View 2 RepliesI bought the truck in 2005 but now that my kids are driving it I need to add a rear camera or sensors.
View 3 RepliesSooooo... I found a keypad card in my manual folder but I don't have a keypad on the outside of my truck. Does this mean that my truck has the capability to accept one if I install it?
View 4 RepliesI've been using my GX to haul the family about 500 miles round trip between our primary home and our lake house. I've done the trip about 5 times now, the route has many elevation changes (hills) and it keeps becoming more apparent that the GX is not downshifting when I would like it.
1) At first, I was stomping down on the gas pedal, entering the uphill stretches, to force a downshift, most of the time it needs to seek all the way to third before it gains enough torque to maintain fast highway speeds (70-80). However, this stomp method results in gunning the engine and then letting off the pedal, not exactly the smoothest process and hard to stay in the power band around 3rd and 4th gears.
2) I finally figured out how to push the shifter to the left and manually shift between the gears myself. However, I have found the downshift from 5 to 4 rarely happens in a timely manner. I shift it over to 4, the light goes out on D but takes a long time to light up on 4, and it stays in 5th gear. I have to downshift all the way to third to get a response out of it, which is immediate.
3) Once I started manually downshifting to 3rd it made a GIANT different in performance of the vehicle over hills. 3rd and 4th gear have plenty of power to move the vehicle along without stomping on the gas pedal and provides a much smoother ride.
Noticed the poor performance of the transmission shift program. I know the 05+ have slightly more power , but this doesn't strike me as a power issue, just that the truck isn't downshifting for optimal performance.
I have a 2007 Prius, and bought it used about 4 months ago. I have not had any issues with it until last night. Last night I was driving home and the red triangle with the “ ! “ in the middle and check engine light came on. The car seems to be running fine, but it scared me to see the lights come on...so this morning I called my local Toyota dealership.
NOTE: I recently went to them for an oil change and they informed me that I had three recalls on my vehicle that needed replacing, but I did not get them replaced because I was told it would take 5-6 hrs (which I didn’t have at the time).
Anyway, they told me that it would cost $70 to have the codes read...and that did not include parts that may need replaced... I thought that sounded a little high for just having the codes read so I went to my local Autozone and they gave me this code:
P0A93 - Inverter Cooling System Performance
First diesel and it came with this chip. Also has a six position and the Po told me the settings. He said the check engine light was on because of it. Will it also cause the od off light to be on? I still have od and it shifts fine. But the off light stays off. Then sometimes it will be off. Never flashes like a code. And can I take the chip off with out putting something back in the hole. I want to see if the lights go off if I remove it.
View 7 RepliesI have done a good bit of reading but am still not completely sure I understand what all is needed when installing a chip on an Ex. Looking at the edge tuner or bully dog. My question is are both of those chips integrated in the tuner? I cant seem to find the answer to this.
View 6 RepliesI pulled out my Pioneer stereo from my 2004 before trading it in for the new 2012. From all my research and all, it should hook right up but I cannot get a switchable power supply at the harness. I can find one in the harness for the heater but do not want to cut into that one. What have you other Truckers done? Here is the wire harness I am working with. The Red is supposed to go the switchable power, yellow to constant and black to ground. The red from the stereo to the harness wire will NOT power the unit. I can get the stereo working if I put the red wire to the constant (yellow) but then the stereo will not turn off.
View 9 RepliesI am considering converting my Ex to a dually. I have located a 2006 dually rearend with the same gears as my rear. My Ex is a 2004 4X4 so I am interested in how easy the physical installation would be to put the 2006 rear in a 2004 Ex.
View 14 RepliesMy f350 has 300k on it. 95% of its driving is on trips of 22 miles or more at highway speeds. Occasionally long trips (going to put on 3k miles in 8 days here soon)
Want to drive the truck to 500k miles...but wondering if a tune or a chip would change the mpgs and not hurt reliability? I know its not a Honda Civic...I am not looking for 35mpg....would love to pick up a couple more than I have.
Title says it, I just installed my Hydra Chip, now my edge says it cant communicate with PCM. I have checked all the connections on the edge, all is good. I planned on just using the Edge only for gauges. Will it not work anymore now that I have a Hydra? If not I will just sell it and buy an Edge Insight, so long as that will work.
I think its the Edge EVO 2, its this one.
So the idea has been kicked around before, but to my knowledge no one yet has done it on FTE. That is, a lighted display switch for our chips that only lights up the current position. Well, I've got it done!!
First some pics, then read below for how I did it. First pics are in the light, the next two are how it looks in positions 1 & 5 at night.
Now, for how I did it. First off, I started with one of the lighted displays from BCPD. Each number has an individual LED behind it, so I could wire up each one for the position it's in.
The back of all the chips have 7 wires attached to it. One is black, it's in the middle, and it is a common ground to the chip. The other 6 wires are all position grounds. The switch works by grounding one wire to the black wire for the position you are in. If you look at where the wires plug into the chips, the one farthest away from the black is position #1, and they count up sequentially from there toward the black wire.
First thing is to unplug the the selector **** cord from the chip before doing any work. I acutally ordered a spare switch from Jody, just in case I screwed up something (which I didn't), I wouldn't be without my chip.
I took the black rubber off the back of the switch to access the soldered connections. I soldered the ground for each LED on the display to the appropriate pole with the wire connected to it on the back of the display. I had some CAT 5 ethernet cable lying around, and I used the wires inside of it for the ground from the switch to the display. You can use a DVM or continuity tester to check for continuity between the black wire and each position to veryify which wire belongs to what position. I ran the extra wires out the bottom of the rubber cover, along with the original wires.
For power, I only wanted the lights to be on at night. So, I tapped into the wire for the gauge lights, put a 1 amp inline fuse (old glass type fuse), and connected all the hot wires of the LED's so they are a common hot. The LEDs already had resistors wired into them, so I didn't need to add any more.
The fit for everything where I put it was a little tight, but I eventually got it to fit, as you can see. And all the lights do work, and show up quite well at night. The display works by having a common hot to all LED's and grounding the one that for the position it's in, completing the circuit and lighting the LED.
Some other ideas would be to wire up 6 different colored LED's to constant power and place them somewhere else, say in the A-Pillar, dash, or on the door to the inside of the mirror. So, you'd have a different color LED for each position. It's not limited to using the BCPD display, that's just what I already had. The creativity is up to you on how you'd choose to light things up for each position.
Finally, I did talk to Jody about doing this and any negative effects it would have on the chip. He said there would be none, since you're just pulling a ground from it. Also, if you use an LED, they are by design only allowing current to flow in one direction, since they are diode's already. But, to be on the safe side, I used the 1 amp fuse on the power wire. You won't need any bigger than that as the LED's don't draw very much power at all.
what is the best computer chip for a 2011 F-350 to get better gas mileage?
View 4 RepliesWell I went to have a guy at work scan my truck to see why my o/d light is flashing His scanner wouldn't connect so I unhooked my ts chip still wouldn't after that Now with the chip unplugged. I can't start with it on I can't start...
My cel is on and my theft light just blinks. My wait to start never comes on but my glow plugs do start up and warm up. All I have is cranking but that's it?
Finally got the Aeroworks CF splitters and spent some time to install it. Took me about 3 hours but I also took the time to put on some adhesive velcro for protection. And re-sealed one of my headlights
First I took off the bumpers. follow this guide
How to remove the bumper from a Lexus IS250 / IS350 to install Lite-Eyes CCFL Halos / Angel Eyes - YouTube
Then the rest is easy. Make sure to clamp or put a bucket under the washer fluid hose if you have the headlight cleaner option. Fitment of these splitters are almost 100%. right side was perfect, left side has a slight gap but its like 1mm ... very small.
Just line it up, and drill 3 holes on the bottom and 1 on the side. The splitters came with screws and some fasteners. Easy to install. I put some 3M adhesive tape as well just in case . I stuck some Heavy Duty industrial velcro strips on the underside in case i rub.
I installed some aftermarket HID lights in my 08 passat. I took it to a local shop to have the drls turned off and the bi xenon turned on. All the warnings and bulb out lights went off, the lights fire up perfect. but for some reason now the lights (all of them, rear, dash, parking all come on with the ignition whether or not the lights are switched on or off.
I am sure a code got changed that causes that, but which code would activate all lights all the time? It's not DRls it all lights are on just like you turned the lights on manually.
I recently purchase a smart key with the same FC as my key but It has a different letter on the chip and was wondering if a G chip would work with my AG key when programming .
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