5.4L 3v engine: The PCV is located in the drivers side valve cover. Tried to pull it out with no success and came to the conclusion that maybe it's threaded and a nut locks it in from the underside of the valve cover. Can this thing be replaced without taking off the valve cover?
View 4 RepliesI have an 2008 Mercury Sable Premiere with a 148 miles on it. Just got the Valve Cover gasket replaced and new water pump put on. The car is running very smooth as it always done,but now when coming to a stop,it either acts like it wants to cut off or sometimes it just shuts off. When it cuts off I immediately crank it back up and it starts, but why or what could be the problem? It also starts up a little slower than before and I know its not the battery because that's brand new.
View 6 RepliesI've got a 2004 Mazda 6 with the 3.0L V6 & a 5-speed, with about 128k miles.
The car runs fine, but was leaking oil onto the exhaust manifold and so I recently had the valve cover gaskets replaced. the mechanic could not get replacement gaskets from Mazda, and so changed the valve covers themselves also, and consequently needed to replace a couple of hoses that connect to the valve covers.
Since the repair, the car drives fine - acceleration seems normal, I don't notice any performance issues. The CEL is NOT lit.
1) When the car is in neutral, but rolling, the idle consistently bounces back and forth precisely between 1250 & 1500 rpm. This occurs always, and happens whether the gearshift is in neutral or the clutch is depressed. With the radio off I can hear the engine surging when this is going on. As soon as the car comes to a complete stop, the idle immediately drops to the a rock-steady position just below 1000 rpm, as it always has.
2) I assume related to the above, but since the repair my gas mileage has dropped from its usual 18-19mpg to 15.7-15.9mpg as recorded at two fill-ups, and my current tankful is looking to return equally low mileage.
I brought the car back to the shop and the mechanic took the car out for a drive with me, with his computer hooked up while we drove. He found nothing wrong, nothing out of whack, and saw no evidence of any air leaks.
1) Seems strange to me that the valve cover gasket couldn't be obtained, and new valve covers were needed. I want to believe the garage is being straight with me. Is this really plausible?
2) What could cause the idle to behave this way? I understand what a valve cover does (in my earlier years I changed the cylinder head on my old Saturn) and can't figure out how or why changing the valve covers would have an effect like this.
That leads me to conclude this is more likely caused by the new, slightly different hoses attached to the valve cover, but I don't know exactly what those hoses do or why they connect to the valve covers, so I'm stuck here.
Well I have a 2150 carb on my '82 truck, I looked in my parts and illustration guide and found what should be a fairly close overhaul kit for my truck based off it being a non high altitude truck and it has A/C and its a 302 with C6 transmission 2 wheel drive.
Down side is the power valve that came with my kit is a two stage power valve and I currently have a single stage power valve.
If I were to use this two stage power valve where would I buy a replacement two stage power valve cover?
Ive been looking but cant find any anywhere and I am to the point of figuring out what power valve my truck has currently so I don't have to put my only vehicle down for multiple days for a simple carb rebuild.
So I'll be taking on a project to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2002 Camry V6. There's a bit of leakage through the gasket. And while I'm at it, I'll replace the spark plugs as well. I'm looking for a write up on this project. did a lot of searching but couldn't find anything.
View 14 RepliesHow difficult is it to replace the valve cover gasket on a 2001 Santa Fe with a 2.7? Can I just do the 'front' valve cover? Are there any tutorials with plenty of pictures while doing this?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Infiniti G35 base sedan. The dealer noticed oil on the engine and said that I needed to replace both valve covers and gaskets -- My question: Why is it necessary to replace the valve covers and not just the gaskets?
View 6 RepliesA few days ago I noticed some oil leaking from the left (front) valve cover area and I suspect it's the gasket. Fortunately, I didn't see any leaks from the back cover. It seemed like an easy job to replace the gasket, but as I started to disconnect the wiring, e.g., cam sensor, spark plugs, etc., I can't seem to find a way to remove the black plastic wiring harness 'housing' out of the way.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 5.4with Air Conditioning. The valve covers are leaking and the gaskets need to be replaced. I am attempting the valve cover gaskets. I was able to get the drivers side cover off with some difficulty. For the passenger side valve cover. There is very little " no" room to get at the bolts. I read somewhere that I may have to drop the engine on that side. I will do that if I have to.
View 5 RepliesHow to replace valve cover gaskets on 2002 430sc???
View 14 RepliesI did a valve cover gasket replacement. Changed all spark plugs and coilpacks. The car is still misfiring. I also just did the timing belt and water pump. Why it's still misfiring?? I'm new to this whole forum thing so bear with me lol. I'm wondering if it would be my cat, fuel pump, fuel filter. Or could it be a sensor?
View 2 RepliesA couple months ago I was hearing a hissing noise under the hood throwing the same code replaced the Valve cover, after there was no issues. Yesterday saw I had CEL and I was throwing P0174 code and there is a similar vacuum leak sound coming from under the hood but the Breather in the valve cover is not sucking in air. The Oil cap comes off but the engine starts to bog, what it could be now?
View 2 RepliesReplaced this gasket that seems to be leaking oil. Looks simple enough, is there anything i should do or know before taking on this job? It's a 2002 Accent GS 1.5L ....
View 8 RepliesI noticed the oil smell that can be associated with a leaking Cam Tensioner Adjustor Seal from my 2003 1.8T Passat a few months ago. The dealer confirmed that it was leaking and that it was covered by my extended warranty since my car was 5 years old and at 70K miles. I had the work done and after I picked up the car I noticed that the oil level was at the top of the hashes not at the top bend like it was when I took it in.
I don't know what caused it to drop to the hashes but I do know that the level has dropped to 3 visible hashes in the little over 1K that has been put on the car since then. I am concerned because in it's first 70K miles the car did not visibly lose a drop of oil.
Any logical cause for this annoying trend, the only thing that changed was that the Cam Tensioner and Valve Cover Gaskets were replaced. Is it possible something else was messed up during the repair?
In order to replace the valve cover do the spark plugs have to be taken off ?
View 12 RepliesMy wife has a 2004 escape v6 (3.0L). The valve cover seal was leaking so I decided, why not change the plugs since I'm already going to have the intake manifold off.
I got down there, replaced the seal (just the front side, didn't want to disassemble something that wasn't broke) and then replaced all 6 plugs and boots (with springs). Fired it up and everything seemed fine. She went to drive to work and the CEL started to flash. I read the code and there were 4 (Don't remember exactly what they were), but it was a combination of things resulting from a misfire in cylinder 4. Since it was one of the front ones. I just pulled the plugged and replaced it hoping I had gotten a dud from the factory. Nope, still doing it.
I didn't take off the fuel lines, just the air intake on the top. I did not change the coils, but everything was running fine before I changed plugs so logic would dictate it is something I did. Only seems to misfire at higher speeds. Also, her battery light randomly comes on, but the battery and alternator test good. This has been happening a while.
I have an oil leak on a 04 f250 6.0 stock. It has 292000 miles on her. It started as a few drips on the pavement about the size of a quarter and now has escalated to a steady trickle. It's on the driver's side in front of engine running down the corner of the block and dripping off the oil pan. I pulled intake plenum and everything and I thought it was coming out of the valve cover but now it looks like its just under the valve cover. It looks like its coming out of the front corner of the head. Its wet there and looks wet around the glow plugs. I cant run it now as I've drained the oil and coolant. I don't have a gauge or anything and its plain stock.
View 14 RepliesYesterday the check engine light came on in my 2006 Prius. I took it to the dealer, and they said that the camshaft gear and valve cover need to be replaced. Specifically, the diagnostic report says "P0011. Camshaft position A timing over. Advanced or system performance bank 1. Pin point check LED to CUV gear not switching."
View 9 RepliesI went to a couple custom exhaust shops to see about duals for my 04 f150. they gave me a price all were different ranging from 250 to 480 for the same set up. Cat back flow master 44 series dual out the back. I asked them if they can take the cats off and they said no and it would lose performance. is this true? i saw a couple videos on youtube.com and there was some with no cats. I kinda want to get true duals. So is it possible or not for this truck.
View 14 RepliesLooking at a truck at a dealership. 04 F150 Lariat 5.4 3v? 2wd SuperCrew 148k miles. Bone stock besides the bedliner.
Truck is pretty nice besides these 4 things. Kind of a shudder when taking off from a stop or a very slow speed. Adjustable pedals don't work.
New brakes, but possibly the rears are dragging a bit. Was able to turn them in neutral and the rear on jacks. Extra, guessing because of the newer looking battery, some systems lack data from the OBD2
I'm mainly concerned about the shudder from a complete stop/1-2mph. At the dealer, to leave the lot, the driveway was elevated. I think it showed very well climbing that hill. As it was noticed and played with the gas a bit. Otherwise, you stomp the gas, it may shudder for a second or two, (3-5 times?) once it hits about 3000 rpm in 1st, its fine. Only ever seemed to do it in 1st and never any other gear, never on any gear changes.
We lifted the rear end up on a jack and fiddled around. Put it in neutral and spun the wheels, tried to mess with the drive shaft... According to dad, who was looking at it with me said it was fine and that it's normal to have a little bit of slop, but I didn't notice any real slop myself, tried to push on the driveshaft on the transmission side and I think it may have moved a bit but it didn't feel loose or clang or anything. Although I didn't get to push on it too hard because he was rotating the driveshaft at the time.
I assume new fluids in engine and trans. My dad said something about old oil marks on the transmission pan area or something. Both to the fill line.
One thing that I wonder about is how long this truck has been sitting. I wonder about the differential clutches. I'm not that sure what it really has for the rear end. But google had mention of clutch packs in the rear. I wonder if because it's been sitting that the oil has settled out of the clutches or something. There was a mess of silicon on the rear diff cap area. Couldn't tell if it was new or not. I think we put 10-20 miles on it at least and only looked under it for maybe a half hour... Still did the clunk/shudder at a start from a stop, when we returned it.
So, what could be causing this clunk/chatter when talking off from a stop/1-2mph roll?
Axle wrap?
Differential Clutches?
Differential?
Driveshaft?
Transmission?
Our 2008 Equinox with roughly 90K miles showed the "service stabilitrack" warning on a Friday, next day light was still there now paired up with "check engine" light. My husband did something to the "stabilitrack" button which made both lights go away for a couple of days. Then both of these returned. Took the vehicle to the dealer (we always do for service, we just don't know some good mechanics in our area and so far we had not had any major issues with the vehicle).
They tell my husband it is the EGR valve that supposedly needs replacement and that the reason it got to be bad is because we failed to maintain / clean the fuel injectors so those need to be washed / cleaned / serviced too so that the whole issue is resolved. No mention about the "stabilitrack" thing at all. Due to our needs of the vehicle and our lack of cars knowledge we agreed to it without looking into it further.. Lights have been off since that and we didn't think much of it.
But then this weekend we got this "recall" letter in the mail for that very same vehicle... talking about the "check engine light" being the issue and an apparent leak of gasoline (via odor or visual leak)... Maybe these are totally unrelated ...
I checked the manual for the recommended maintenance and nowhere there is mention of regular maintenance needed for the fuel injectors.. I looked online and while there seems to be varied opinions most of them agree that is something not needed; neither it is the EGR valve replacement... so now I am really wondering! Was it all for nothing? And how is one supposed to know this. Is the "check engine" light enough of an issue to maybe think this was the right thing to do?