Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: P0453 Code After Broken Ground Wire
Jun 6, 2016
My 2007 F150 5.4L would not crank at all the other morning. After checking the battery, I discovered that the ground wire to the starter was completely frayed and broken off right at the eyelet connector to the starter. I spliced it back together and the truck fired right up.
However, the check engine light suddenly appeared and I got a P0453 code which apparently indicates a high reading at the fuel pressure sensor. The CEL never appeared until the broken wire happened. I took a quick look at the fuel pressure sensor and wiring and nothing appears to be obviously broken.
One other thing I've noticed for a few weeks is a miss under load while driving. I have not seen any codes at all for the miss. I was leaning toward replacing the coil overs but now I'm wondering if the miss is related to the fuel pressure sensor.
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So when it rains sometimes my ABS will go off till I drive it down the road a bit... Where is the location of the ground wire for this thing? I've checked up under it and no wires are cut or burnt... just wonder where this thing grounds to... if I can find that I may be able to clean it and fix the sensor.... because something makes me believe the sensor isn't bad, because some times it works for a half mile or so... before it goes back on.
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I just acquired a wonderful 2005 F-150 XLT 4.6 liter truck. I need to get it passable for smog check here in AZ and the failed test revealed a P0453 error code (EVAP) which translates to a possible pressure sensor malfunction.
My question is finding the sensor and if I am looking at dropping the fuel tank to service/replace the sensor. Also, could a vacuum line be the cause?
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I found a loose blue/white ground wire in my engine compartment. Where this exactly needs to be ground ed to? Been having dash cluster light issues also.
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2007 F-150 Screw 5.4... Successful spark plug change. Well, sort of. I disconnected some of the coil clips/wires from the coils during the operation. Upon installation of the wires/clips, one of the clips did not 'click' into place.
Thinking the clip needed to be pushed/pulled, I bent the clip a bit and it snapped off! Being the slow learner that I am, a second clip also did not 'click' in place, and you know where this is going: I have two broken clips out of 8. After those two, I was much more gentle.
So, can these clips be replaced and/or spliced in? I'm thinking about just using nylon ties to hold them in place. So far, they are staying put just by being pushed in place, but these two do not seem very secure.
In the future, what is the correct way to make sure these things 'snap' back into place if they seem to not want to cooperate?
Here's a picture of the two 'press clips' that broke off....
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Trying to find ground wire location on my 99 f250 super duty with the 5.4 triton I didn't unbolt it myself. Going to be doing the big 3 upgrade soon and would like to use the factory ground spots.
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The clock/CD player in my Prius 2001 stopped working after I accidentally touched a red wire to ground/car body. The 7.5A fuse next to it is fine, so are the visible fuses. The radio is OK too, with the previous setting.
A Toyota mechanic told me that the clock/CD player needed to be replaced since one of the 4 wires to the clock has power.
But the clock can start to run after ACC is on and can be barely visible when headlights are on. It seems that there are 2 sets of power to the clock, one for display and the other is always-on for clock running, and the always-on power is down.
After I checked the wires I think the always-on power may come from the metal box(~5"x5", is it a computer?) under dashboard if it's not from a gateway box.
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I have a 2004 f150 4x4, When I put it in four wheel drive everything fine until I make a sharp turn. It's not a little wheel hop its a loud clunk that feels like the tire comes off the ground. I changed the cv axle from the side that seemed to be doing it but it didn't work. Could it be the actuator?
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I have an 04 F150 5.4. Anyway drove truck about 200 miles this weekend. When I got back home, unloaded truck, noticed a fluid leak on the ground in the rear of truck. Upon further inspection, appears to be leaking from where the driveshaft meets the rear axle...looks like there's a gasket or yoke in the rear of the U joint? a little fluid dripped down and ran down to the lower portion of the "pumpkin" and made a quarter size oil patch in front of my house.
I would have definitely noticed such a stain before, since I park in the same spot at home and work every day. I drove to work today (14 miles) and looked under the truck for 15 minutes after I parked, don't see any drip, but do see remnants of a leak all over the front part of the rear axle. No way has any fluid leaked on the ground before, I 100% would have noticed a stain.
Thoughts on a fix for this? I had the clutch packs redone about 3 years ago under warranty, truck has 88k miles. No shudder when I drive from the rear axle, I'm assuming there is fluid in the rear gears, as a substantial leak I for sure would have seen on the ground. leak is 100% NOT coming from the seal on the rear axle, but in front of it where the shaft meets the axle. Possible that driving on the highway at 75MPH for 2 hours straight caused this leak, as my drive to work is mostly stop and go, both ways.
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I have the code P0453 set and believe I need to replace the fuel tank pressure sensor. I have the part and want to know if this part can be replaced without removing the fuel tank. There is a video on youtube that shows replacing the part by lowering the tank with a transmission jack after the straps have been removed. Replacing the sensor by touch and feel maybe using mirrors to see what you are doing? It might be possible to cut a hole in the bed and patch it later but that seems pretty time consuming too.
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The problem I had started 2 months ago. Wipers froze to windshield and I didn't get it loose enough so I turned wipers on it moved and then stopped, figured just frozen,.. but once I got it all loose she didn't work. Tested everything
When I was pulling the motor I noticed it was kinda working when moving around.. but I replaced motor I found out testing with the new motor that tiny ground wire was shorted out. I guess it burned somewhere, as when I ran a wire from the motor to a bolt. It worked. Motor did work slow.
But I was driving other day and wanted to use wipers boom not working. I just pulled it off. Motor doesn't seem to be working but the delay is working I run a meter to the battery and then to the 1 wire on the harness and she trips on and off the 12 volts. So I guessing the motor is burned out. And that thin ground wire has no ground to it so I'm sure it blew before the 25 amp breaker will ever break
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My tail light. The middle wire broke I was thinking of soldering it together?
Is this part specific to the Excursions or can I go to the junk yard and get it from other Fords?
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I have a 2004 f150 with 2 of the 4 A/C vents are broken, I just want to replace them. I figured the dealership would be a rip off and I didnt see any on ebay. And how to take them out?
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I've got broken wires in the driver door. Do I have to solder them?
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In removing the COPs on my 2004 F150 Lariat 5.4L for a spark plug change, I noticed that the locking tab on one of the electrical connectors that plugs into the COP is broken. The previous owner had a zip tie on it to keep it on. Can I purchase a new connector and splice it on so that I don't have to use a zip tie? If so, what is the part number?
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So one of the green wires broke off at the bulb connection and my 3rd brake light is not working. If I touch the ends together the light does work. Can I just remove the broken wire in the connector and reattach the current wire? Or do I have to replace the whole thing?
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Two of my plugs locking clips broke today on the wire harness side where the coil over plugs into the harness today while changing spark plugs. They will plug back up, but they won't lock together like they are suppose to. How critical is this? It is my wife's car will she break down? I drove the car maybe twelve miles, and everything seemed fine.
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So I have had my FX4 for almost 10 years now. I have an xtra cab, bought new summer 2004 in Connecticut. Bought it had 5 miles on odometer, as of today has almost 117k miles. We just relocated this past weekend from CT to Manatee County, Florida, my wife followed me down in her 2010 Escape. Both trucks ran perfect..easy driving cruise control on 70 most of the way except for VA where there seemed to be a state trooper every 5 miles
anyway so overall I am satisfied with my truck since I've owned it. Changed oil every 4000-4500 miles without fail, 5-20 Motorcraft semi synthetic and FL-820 S filter is all it has ever seen. Engine doesnt burn/leak a drop of oil. As far as maintenace items and repairs, I looked through my records, here's what I've done:
1) rear axle rebuilt under warranty, clutch packs were shot at 60k.
2) brakes/rotors all around at about 50k, they still as of now have plenty of meat left
3) pinion seal went at about 90k
4) fly wheel had to be replaced at about 95k that was an expensive repair
5) replaced both front window regulators
6) replaced sliding rear window, under warranty, was leaking badly.
7) idler pulley replacement
8) exhaust rotted from just in front of muffler to tailpipe, replaced.
Also was told before we left CT that front coil spring was broken? I don't know about that truck suspension seems fine but will have it looked at.
Also normal maintenance did tranny flush 4x so far, fuel filter 4x so far, on 3rd set of tires, came with BFG rugged terrain, replaced at 62k with TOYO open country, they lasted 40k, now have Goodyear Wrangler LT's, so far excellent. Air filters, a light bulb here and there, and replaced battery after 6 years just to do it.
I have NOT changed the plugs yet truck does run great but I know what can and probably will happen, I feel comfortable with a dealer doing it, I'm not mechanically inclined enough to do it. I will have a little bit of a commute to work here, so I will probably get a ford Fiesta or a focus for the drive, but no way am I getting rid of this truck!
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Doing some charity work on a '04 5.4. Noticed top right idler pulley was sitting on a 45* angle, figured it was shot and decided to replace it. The bolt broke. Borrowed an Easy Out. Short version, I have a very messed up bolt hole. Tried drilling and tapping but couldn't get it to bite and was scared to go bigger. I don't know if the threaded part pulley actually mounts can be replaced and if so how to go about it. Not sure how much deeper I can drill if it can't be replaced? At a standstill.
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I am stuck with a shattered rear drivers door glass because of a thief. They got my backpack with an Ipad and misc things. Now I am trying to replace the glass myself but the dealer want big amount for the part because it comes with the track. (ridiculous!!!) Aside from replacing my ipad, backpack, and other irreplaceable items, this glass replacement is fubar with little info on it. Is it possible to just replace the glass like any other car???
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I have an 05 f150 that quit while driving, towed it home n started it up but was running rough n noisy in the front of motor. figured it jumped time n i would put a new timing set in and phasers. upon removal of passengers side valve cover i found 1 rocker out, 1 broken and 1 off the valve spring with a bad roller. the keepers were off the valve and the valve is in the cylinder. timing chain is very loose and there is a broken piece down in towards crank sprocket. did the timing jump cause 3 rockers to be damaged n 1 broken valve all in one cylinder. Haven't removed the drivers side. Was looking for parts to repair and they seem to not be many options out there for the 3 valve motor.
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