Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Overheating - Replace Radiator?
Jul 11, 2014
156,000 miles, I've been pulling a 21ft bass boat in the summer for years with no issues. Now on hot days (over 78 degrees) it is over heating. Can't use AC and need to slow down to 60 mph in-order to cool her down. Never have flushed the radiator but I'm wondering if getting it flushed is a waste of time and if I should just proceed to replacing the radiator? For a couple of years now I can hear a roaring sound (like a jet engine) on really hot days, when I start out driving. Could this be a cooling fan? Seems like the power is restricted during these times. Really need to increase throttle to get going?
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Ok so I have an 04 Jetta 2.0 and lately it's been overheating on me. The first time it started overheating was because my radiator was cracked and leaked out all my coolant, I swapped the radiator everything was fine for a while. The second time I started overheating, I saw my primary fan was bad it wasn't spinning at all, I swapped it everything was fine for another while. I also changed the coolant temp sensor, it wasn't bad it's just because the coolant flange was leaking coolant, so I changed it a long with the O-Rings and sensor. I also changed the thermostat just incase that was the problem but it wasn't.
I don't think the fans are turning on by them selves when they have too, but either way the car still overheats when I turn on the fans manually with the A/C. I'm not sure if the coolant is circulating, as the car only begins to overheat when I come to a stop and it idles. I have a feeling it's the water pump but I wanna be sure it is before I change it. What it could be? Things that I should check for that usually go out?
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I am driving smoothly on the highway, doing about 60km/hr, with my A/C working on a full. Suddenly, the check engine and emergency brake light comes up on the HUD along with a beeping sounding. A pull over, and smell a bad odor - like burning rubber - coming out of the hood. I checked and the car was immensely heated and there was smoke rising from a small rubber tube right next to the fuse box under the hood. I turned off the car.
Whenever I would turn the car back on, the smoke would start coming back. I checked several times. I couldn't find out where the smoke was coming from.
When the car cooled down a bit, I checked the radiator. The coolant level was a bit low so I filled up with the water. I also noticed that the radiator fans were not working, even when I turn the A/C on. So I called a towing company and got my car back to my garage.
Now the car heats up after running for a bit and the big exclamation mark sign comes on. The check engine light also comes on. But when the car cools down, the lights go away. I am thinking that the problem has something to do with overheating and the radiator fans not working.
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First off new jetta owner. I changed the thermostat. There is no heat coming into the car upper radiator hose hot lower hose is cold & seems there is no pressure. I bought the book to repair the car but it doesn't give me troubleshooting directions other than it might be the water pump or a blockage in the radiator.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The temperature gauge in the car moves toward the "danger zone" only under both the following conditions:
1) Car is at IDLE after being driven for a while (15-20 minutes). 2) Headlights are ON (I've sat in the car and watched the temperature gauge move up and then back down as I turn on and thrn turn off the headlights).
*What I've also noticed is that the temperature gauge starts moving up as the radiator fans kick ON.
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2004 F150 Supercrew 4x4 Right now I have a broken roller cup on my rear U-joint. So I bought a new U-joint from the Ford dealer. When I pulled the driveshaft out I couldn't tell how to replace the U-joint. There are no E-clips to remove from the yoke/driveshaft ears. There are solid round "O" shaped clips that looked to be pressed in or something.
I've talked to the Ford dealer as well as a few other local mechanics and they haven't seen this setup before. So I didn't get any assistance there. It seems like my only option is to replace the whole pinion yoke, driveshaft, and U-joint together. Which sucks because this is just a frikkin' U-joint that needs replaced. That's it. I guess what I'm asking is, is there a way to work on this non-serviceable U-joint?
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Tried searching, but I couldn't find any good write-ups on how to replace a front CV axle. The boot on mine is ripped and spraying grease so I figure I should just replace the whole axle while I'm in there. In a previous post, I also found out that replacing the CV axle (joint?) is easier than replacing just the boot.
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Alright, I, like alot of people with these trucks have the rust under their fuel doors from what ive seen and heard is the fuel neck filler plastic vibrating and rubbing, wearing throught the paint allowing water and fuel drips in and getting under the paint.
Well i keep touching up my spots but i have to do it twice a year and it just keeps getting worse, so i decided to go a bit further and clean it, touch it up, and protect it. This is a low $ job. Its not perfect but it is definately better than rust and from a couple feet back you can barely notice it, and hopefully this will be the last time i have to touch it up.
[URL] .....
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How do you remove the transmission lines from the radiator. I have to replace the radiator and don't want to mess up the lines.
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Just bought a 2007 supercab with the 5.4 in nice shape, but have an intermittent brake light on the dash. (No ABS, just the brake light.) Our mech. diagnosed a bad Brake Fluid Level switch. I can get a new sensor. I'd like to try and replace this myself and save a lot of money if it's not too difficult.
I'm looking for some clear step-by-step directions on doing this, and have a couple of questions:
Do I need to disconnect the battery first?
Do I need to empty the brake fluid reservoir? (Looks like the sensor is in the bottom of the reservoir, if I take it out without draining res, will I have a mess?)
When looking up the sensor online, I also saw the plug/connector for sale, should I replace that as well?
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I have a 2006 F-15 XLT with a bed cover, tailgate cover and separate tailgate cap. The cap has cheap plastic clips that went into the tailgate but have broken off...this is a problem as I have a tonneau cover that is a tight fit. Every time I close the tailgate with the cover on, I have to jam the cap down and hope it is far enough by the time the tailgate closes.
2 Questions:
1) Where can I buy a reasonable replacement?
2) Is there a good solution to just repair? I tried JB Weld, but that did not seem to hold (surprisingly)
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I have a leak between the metal and the plastic of my water crossover.
Do I need to remove the manifold to replace the gaskets for the crossover and if so looking for a good thread showing how.
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In the last 50 starts it has happened twice: When I try to start the truck, all dash lights and power come on but there is no sound or cranking from the engine. If I cycle the key back and forth a half a dozen times it will then crank and start. Next time I will try and listen to hear if the solenoid is clicking.
I've read posts about it being the anti-theft, ignition switch, stater relay, ppm relay, etc....
I could replace the relays to rule them out, but my gut is telling me that's not it? Would there be a code from something like this?
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For a while now I've been having issues with my truck overheating. Generally when I slow down, come to a stop, after driving a while. The other I replaced the radiator cap, as coolant was bubbling out after driving far. Thermostat was replaced. Radiator was flushed today as there was some rusty color build up. Added engine oil as it was VERY low the other day. So far I'm still getting the overheating issues and it seems to happen more so when I run my AC. I've noticed no significant leaking from anywhere else after replacing the cap. I'm thinking of either the water pump or the fan? But I dont know how to know for sure and I dont want to replace parts that I dont have to as a waterpump alone is $50-60.
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I own a 2000 F150 4.2L (I think off the top of my head) v6 XL model. For the past couple of years I've had an issue with overheating. So far I've had the following replaced:
Radiator
Thermostat
Radiator Cap
Water Pump
The intake manifold has been repaired, that was the first item to have some work done to it. The shop I took it to said the coolant hose that runs into the manifold was corroded at the entrance to the manifold. They stated there was no way to actually replace the hose, but they gave me two options:
1. replace the entire manifold or
2. cap the existing entrance port, drill a hole into the manifold next to the port, and run a new hose.
I chose the cheaper option which I suspect is part of the problem. Now to the problem.
I can drive around town all day long no problems even in 100+ degree Oklahoma summer heat. I left it idling on the side of a street for 2 hours during summer and no problems. The moment I get the truck to 55mph it starts to overheat. Not just overheat, but peg completely out in just over a mile after hitting 55mph.
Once I drop the truck down to about 40mph the temp starts to lower, but will fluctuate between normal and 3/4 to max.
What I need to look at? I've been told head gaskets, but there's no leaks and no water in the oil. I've been told to replace the engine, which if I could afford that I could afford a down payment on a new truck. It's a bit frustrating at best.
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Will the computer in a 2007 shut down the AC compressor in an overheating scenario because it would be considered non essential? Yesterday on my way home from work my AC quit blowing cold. I just had the compressor changed a couple of months ago so my first though was bad compressor. Then I noticed the temp gauge start to climb. The truck was over heating. There was a hole in the radiator. Now that the overheating problem is fixed the AC is again blowing cold. I just would like to know if I may be starting g to have issues with the compressor again or if it's natural for it to shut the compressor off because of overheating of the motor.
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OK, 05 v8 4.6l
I am having very random overheating for last few weeks. Started randomly one day in stop n go traffic. Thought maybe struck tstat so replaced it. Same thing...replaced water pump, fan clutch, serpentine belt, coolant reservoir cap since then. During all those replacement I flushed system with garden hose. Burped system to best of my knowledge. Still overheats randomly. Seems to happen every day now at hot times (100*). I drive around all day for work so been watching it closely. Temp gun runs 190* on tstat housing at operating temp. When it was rising up in temp I pulled over and temp gun read 200 ish.... it is in fact getting hot. Any freaking clues? Oh and have pressure tested good....combustion test good...
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2007 5.4 F150. Is the radiator drain the square yellow nylon (?) fitting at the bottom right of the radiator? Does it screw out and the coolant come out the little spigot ? Would like to make sure before I get in there and destroy things....
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2004 4.6 V8 Trition ,two wheel drive, STX Pickup. By removing the bottom radiator hose, will that allow all engine coolant to be drained from engine? If not, about how much coolant will remain in the engine in terms of quarts or percentage of total vehicle coolant capacity?
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I have a 2000 Ex with 252,000 miles. Where it is extremely hilly (Ozark Mountains). I tow a 6400 lb travel trailer. What I am having problems with is the Ex is running extremely hot when towing and climbing hills. Not in the red, but damn close. No problems what so ever when not towing. No problems when towing on level ground. I know the Ex is working hard, but I want to keep it running cooler. I have flushed the radiator literally 20 times and have done 2 chemical flushes. Is it time to just replace the radiator? How many passes does the stock radiator have? What about a bigger water pump? I have the 5.4 motor, which I love so no bashing my little V8. It has all the power I need. I don't need to climb hills doing 90mph.
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I hit a hunk of concrete on the way to work earlier this year and have a cracked radiator. I am looking to replace it with something better if possible. I searched the threads on here and the results seemed inconclusive. Looking for info regarding actually installion of these radiators in car? If so, how'd it work out?
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