Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Overheating / AC Quit Blowing Cold
Oct 5, 2016
Will the computer in a 2007 shut down the AC compressor in an overheating scenario because it would be considered non essential? Yesterday on my way home from work my AC quit blowing cold. I just had the compressor changed a couple of months ago so my first though was bad compressor. Then I noticed the temp gauge start to climb. The truck was over heating. There was a hole in the radiator. Now that the overheating problem is fixed the AC is again blowing cold. I just would like to know if I may be starting g to have issues with the compressor again or if it's natural for it to shut the compressor off because of overheating of the motor.
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It was blowing cold and stopped. Minutes later it started again and then stopped. This went on for a week and then stopped altogether. Car has 190,000 miles. Is it compressor, clutch or relay....
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I have a 2004 GX470. Now that the weather has dropped I have noticed that my heater is taking a long time to warm up all it does is blow cold air out of the vent. Subsequently I have started to notice that they car will start to overheat. It will never get to the point where it will hit the red but it will go up and then come back down to mid range. There doesn't seem to be anything else wrong with the car, it idles fine, starts fine etc. Could these two issues be related?
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I have a 2003 f250 SD 5.4L 2wd. Yesterday I get in and start it up .. no hot air just blows cold. What to check
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My 05 has always had good air conditioning front and back but around three weeks ago it quit blowing cold. I found all the 134 had leaked out through a pin hole in the aluminum line that runs down the back of the engine to the rear ac unit. I removed the line and brazed the pin hole. So I reinstalled the line, put a vacume on the system for 20 mins then let it sit for another 20 to make sure I had no leaks. All seemed good so I re charged the system. Now my front blows nice and cold but the rear is warm?
My pressures at idle are around 40psi low side and 200ish on the high side when the engine is warmed up and the ambeint temp is around 74 f. If I turn it to the warmest setting for the rear it gets noticeably hotter so I'm thinking the blend door is working properly?? I've read that the thermal expansion valves can give some trouble so I pulled the jack and cubby out to gain access to it. I tried tapping on it with no gains. Also the top left line seems to be pretty cold coming out of it too the evaporator but the line coming out of the evap is room temp. I was very careful not to let any junk get into the lines when they were apart for the line repair but I'm thinking maybe some junk has plugged up the TXV?
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I have a 2005 f150 4 Dr. My fan sounds like it's going to come thru my glove box. I replaced the blower resistor and that did not work. I have cold air blowing out, it just gurgles real bad. And it's hot out.
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Here is my problem: A/C not blowing cold air, blower motor working fine, checked all relevant fuses for A/C and R202 relay under the hood. Everything is fine here. Next, low pressure switch, jumped, clutch does not engage. Next removed relay R202 (clutch relay) measured voltages (at female sockets) where pins 1 and 3 would go, voltage OK. Jumped where pins 3 and 5 would go (bypass to see if clutch engages) and it does. Appears that the pressure switches check out OK (low pressure and A/C cycling switch - although this one not sure). CarMD unit was used as well, and no codes generated so perhaps PCM is working OK? I'm stumped, as a loss of GND by PCM or perhaps a corroded or open wire issue??
Also, possible the A/C switch on the HVAC control could be bad, but the light comes on, (doesn't mean switch is good necessarily). The rest of that unit works fine, control ***** that is, fan speed adjusts properly, air flow looks good. It appears this is an electrical problem where the clutch is not getting juice but I don't know the source of the problem. However, I also noticed that when the clutch/compressor was running (temporarily as described above) cold air still didn't come out. This, I assume, would mean I would need to add refrigerant or re-charge the A/C AFTER I get the clutch to engage electrically. 2004 F-150 5.4L ....
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My AC blows hot air, like heater hot, but the defrost on cold blows cold air. At first the AC would cut out at low rpm's (stop sign or red light) and cut back on, now its nothing. But the defrost blowing cold, enough to fog up the windshield, tells me its not the compressor or freon.
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I have A '06 f 150 4x4 with codes p303 and 307. I have changed plugs, coils, and injectors on all cylinders. Still nothing. It runs rough for a while and clears out for a mile or so and back to running bad. When it stumbles the a/c quits blowing cold and the truck shakes like crazy. The check engine light is on and blinks when it stumbles. Tired of just having parts changed. What else could it be?
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Last week my 99 Expedition w/ 130,000 miles overheated. Air stopped blowing cold, then blew REALLY cold momentarily, Temp. went to high, check engine light on, car wouldn't accelerate. Was a block from home - put it in neutral and got home. Let it cool down. Checked all fluids, etc. Took it to our family mechanic - been our mechanic for 5 years - could find nothing obviously wrong so he cleared the code. Car ran fine for a week then temp started to rise again yesterday. Only common thread...the rear air was on both times. Once we were highway driving, other time in stop/go traffic. Replaced the thermostat last year.
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I have a 2000 f-350 that overheated 2 months ago I replaced the radiator...it seemed fine for a month then started blowing cold air then would start to overheat and back and forth so I replaced the thermosat.......but when i checked the old one with a cooking theromometer it was fine. not long after that the heater core started leaking so i replaced that..and now its back and forth overheating and blowing cold air....then fine for 1/2 hour..then back and forth again.. Truck has 250,000 miles on it
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I currently own a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with 135,000K miles on it, and have had continual problems with the A/C not blowing cold over the last year or so.
A year ago, took it to what I thought was a reputable mechanic (not a dealer) who diagnosed the problem as a "bad" master circuit board. Thing ran fine for about 6 months, then started to intermittently blow warm air, until it finally quit blowing cold.
Finally broke down and took it to the dealer hoping they would be able to fix the problem. They charged me $110 and told me the refrigerant was low so they topped it off. 6 weeks later, once again not blowing cold, took it back. They said this time they found a "leak" in the refrigerant hose, replaced the hose, topped off the refrigerant, and sent me on my way (free of charge, of course, since they should have fixed it the first time).
Well...6 weeks later and once again, not blowing cold, so back to the dealer I go. Once again, they said the hose was "leaking" and they did the dye test (shouldn't they have done this the first time?) and replaced the hose, and the refrigerant. Good for another 6 weeks, then once again, not blowing cold.
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Have 2003 V6 FWD Passat. A/C blows hard but quit blowing cold. Noticed last week, that sitting for a long light, A/C would quit blowing cold, then cycle on again every 20-30 sec. After worked fine. Yesterday no cold air.
Read on forums about the 384 relay. My electric fan is NOT coming on. Started car, turned A/C on high, and checked voltage on connecter to fan. was negligible. Car was fully warmed up, so i figure voltage should be 14.0 VDC
Making assumption that it is either the AC relay 384, or the fan relay but there are two, a 214 and a 213.
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The AC on my car (2002 Jetta 1.8t) quit blowing cold. Did some troubleshooting and...
1. Checked Freon- level was ok
2. Noticed cooling fans were not coming on with AC button pressed and ignition on. Fans also not coming on when car up to temperature, but gauge never went above normal. Seems strange considering I live in Houston and it was 95+ out.
3. tested fans with direct power and both high and low are fine.
4. jumped terminals 1,2 and 2,3 on plug for cooling fan switch and fans turn on high and low...so thought must be bad cooling fan switch.
5. Replaced cooling fan switch and still no fans or ac when AC button is pressed and ignition on.
6. replaced Fan control module. Still no fans.
7. Checked Freon once more...and although it was in the ok range decided to add a little more. (was in the middle of ok range, and a cheap gauge)
8. Compressor kicks on, along with cooling fan. End up using the 1 can I had and now have cold air and fans that come on when hitting the AC button with ignition set to on position.
I thought the mkiv cars would always turn on the fans when AC button is pressed with ignition on? Or does the compressor also need to be charged?
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A few weeks ago my car started overheating and blowing cold air while I was on the highway. I took it to my mechanic and he found that the radiator was leaking. Two weeks later the car was overheating and the heater was blowing cold air when I was on the highway. I had it towed to the same mechanic and the car wouldn't overheat nor would it blow cold air. He drove it all around and on the highway but couldn't get the problems I was having to occur. Now I have intermittent heat. Sometimes I will start the car and it will take 20+ minutes for the heat to blow warm air. Other times the heat works fine for a while and then starts blowing cold air. Usually when it starts blowing cold air I begin to smell a sweet odor, possibly coolant. It hasn't overheated again, but I have stayed off the highway.
I just had the thermostat changed, and the upper radiator hose warms up quickly. When the heater is blowing cold air, one or both of the hoses connecting to the heater core do not warm up. Sometimes it's both hoses, other times the hose going in is hot but the other hose is cool. My mechanic seems to think that the head gasket is leaking air into the system, and that the air is preventing the coolant/water from being properly transported throughout the car. He did a pressure test to see if it was the head gasket when I brought the car in but it wasn't conclusive. Does it sound like a head gasket leak, or could it be a blocked heater core, or a weak water pump? So far I haven't noticed any coolant leaks, but I could be missing something.
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When I turn on my air conditioner it just blows air, not cold air just air. If I turn it to heat it also just blows air, not warm air, just air. The fan settings all work fine but the air coming out never changes temperature. By the way, If I bypass the compressor clutch relay with a paper clip, the AC will kick in. I refilled the coolant in the AC system too but it won't engage without bypassing the relay. Plus, the heater is not "kicking in" either. I did recently install a new wiper motor but I am not sure if that may have contributed to the air issue that is happening now.
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Simultaneously all of my windows stopped working checked all the fuses relays motors switches regulator u name it. I was told there is a module that controls this but it's in the middle of the dash.
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I have a 2006 F-150 4x4 and the 4x4 quit working, it gives me a P1867 & P1891 code but my scanner don't tell me possible causes. Where to start looking?
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This morning I drove down to unlock my gate and got out of the truck while it was idling. When I got to the gate the truck just stopped running it did not sputter or anything it was like a light switch and just shut off. I got back in the truck and tried to start it but nothing happened starter did not engage at all or even try to run. I put a new battery in it knowing that is not the problem but it will just not start or even turn over.
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I have a f 150 2006 4.2 liter (basic truck standard) 60.000 km. Yesterday the engine just started chugging and quit I changed the fuel filter. I turned the engine over and the pump did not work when the filter was off so i pushed the emergency shut off button still nothing one question is i pushed the button in it didn't click or anything is that how it works? I have checked all the fuses and grounds what would cause the fuel pump not to work? Or what should I check next?
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My sons 04 f150 started to miss then quit on him then wouldn't start so he had a buddy pull it to a neighbors I went to check it out an hr later the first time i tried to start it it started ran for 2 sec then quit tried again and it would just crank no start went back 3 hrs later with my code reader no codes but he did say check eng was on when it quit first time so i try starting started up so i headed for home, it started running rough twice on way home but seem to come out of it both times.
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