So, my 2004 with its constant tick is now "Missing", but only under moderate acceleration, between 1k and 2k rpms. i.e., : When in OD and wanting to gain a few MPH, but not drop down a gear. I have noticed it in OD and in 3rd. Feels like the engine stops for a split second, several times.
View 10 RepliesI have an 05 F150 with the 3v 5.4 with 170k on it. Last fall we changed the timing chains, cam phasers (aftermarket), plugs, coils (OEM), VVT solenoids (OEM), Cam Position sensors (OEM) and swapped in a GT500 oil pump. Recently under moderate load (fairly heavy acceleration onto the freeway, pulling a large camper) I get a pretty rough misfire. Tonight I pulled the codes and it was Cylinder 5 misfire. In the past I have also had Bank 2 Over-Retarded code. What are the next things to verify and check? I plan to clean the throttle body and change fuel filter but I'm not sure either of those would cause the misfire code?
View 3 Replies2006 ford f150... Mine started out as a misfire problem which I first changed the plugs. I followed the Ford TSB and got all 8 plugs out with no problems. Still misfiring and setting a code for bank 1 catalytic converter inefficiency bank 1. By the way bank 1 is passenger side. After changing bank 2 because the guy at Advance auto said bank 1 was drivers side. Still setting misfire codes and for bank 1 cat. ineff.
So after installing new coil packs and 2 injectors, Still misfiring #3 and #1 and cat. ineff. bank 1. Decided to buy my own code reader, which is a must if you are going to try to work on these new vehicles. Decided to unplug o2 sensor to see where bank 1 really was. Thats when I found out bank 1 was indeed passengers side. Changed o2 sensors. Still misfiring. Decided to buy the true bank 1 cat converter.
Dropped old bank 1 cat and found all of the internal workings all broke up and clogging converter. Truck runs like new. I spent 178.00 for bank 1 converter at pep boys. After spending O approx. 600 in other parts that didnt fix it. I think the spark plugs not being changed until 115000 miles caused the converter to go bad. Buy a code reader and it makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose your problem yourself. and save a whole lot of money throwing new parts at it.
Over the past couple of weeks my truck has developed a pretty consistent metallic buzz on light/moderate acceleration. At first I thought it was a heat shield rattling, but I've been under it a dozen times and can't find anything loose to make the metallic buzz that I'm hearing... I can pound on several places in the exhaust system with my palm and it seems solid/connected everywhere. V10 truck??
View 6 RepliesAt 89,000 miles I replaced my plugs with autzone autolites and also replaced my fuel filter. Shortly there after the truck started to shutter and shake while miss firing giving a 0307 code. After checking that plug and replacing it, moving the COPs across the engine from each other the miss firing continued under the 0307 code. The miss firing mostly occurred when I was around 50 MPH, under slight strain with a little acceleration. If I powered through it most of the time it would clear out. Occasionally it was bad enough to where I had to pull over.
I trouble shot this for about a month before it got more consistent and worse. I took it to the shop where they tested the compression on the cylinder and also tested each coil. All check out OK. They recommended I replace all plugs with motorcrafts and the boots on the coils. In the process of doing that I discovered a loose plug in the #2 cylinder. I pulled it out and found that it was scorched and the metal was slightly tweaked at the tip. Not sure how it got loose or how it got burned, but figured that I found the problem. All plugs and boots replaced!
Two days later more miss firing. This time with a 0305 code. Occurs again on a grade at around 50 MPH with slight acceleration. I pulled that plug and the plug in the cylinder where the loose plug was found. Nothing seemed to be wrong. The plugs seemed a little brown where I put anti seize on but that I figured was normal. I then moved coils again. The miss fire continued and the code did not move. There is still a rough idle and occasional humming coming from the engine.
Is the loose burnt plug a separate issue or is there something causing all the miss fires that backed my plug out. I'm lost on my next step to take. Im getting married in two weeks so needless to say spending more and more money on this issue let alone time is making things so stressful. Besides the fact that I think my engine going to blow up on me every time it miss fires bad.
2005 Ford F150 lariat 5.4
I had a misfire under a bit of a load (acceleration) and up hills. I changed spark plus with OEM Motor craft ones, truck ran super nice for a couple week.
Had the engine light flash, slow down and the RPM go up a tiny bit then back down and the light goes off
Now I'm back to miss fire different location, and a rough idle. I've swapped coil packs around and the miss fire stayed on cylinder 4.
Spark plug screwed or injector or ?????
My new to me 04 4.6 shuddered and misfired really bad last week, got couple misfire codes. I changed plugs which were really bad, like burnt out to .080, got a HEI ignition tester and got a healthy spark from all the coil packs. Drove it today and ran much better but still would shudder under acceleration when cold, wasn't as bad when warmed up but still noticeable. I thought if I got a spark with the tester that means the coil is ok? or is that not the last word in coil health. Or should I look somewhere else like injectors ? Haven't got any codes since plug change.
View 1 RepliesI have an 04 V8 and have consistently noted a valve(?) clatter noise under moderate to hard acceleration. I mentioned it to my VW sales associate and he stated this is typical of this engine and that after warm up it should no longer occur. I hear the clatter at any time, warm or cold.
View 5 RepliesI have an 09 F150 4x4 with 116,000 miles on the clock. I am having an issue with moderate acceleration and felt mostly in 3rd gear. I changed the spark plugs at 106,000 miles with OEM replacements. I have had this issue since about 80,000 miles but intermittently. It seems its starting to get worse as time goes by. The problem is both cold or warm and doesn't happen all the time but now about 80%. Light acceleration is good and full acceleration is great with no issues.
Feels more like running out of fuel but not to the point of stumbling. Possible misfire that is not being detected. No check engine light lit. Tranny shifts perfect. Idles extremely smooth. I was thinking a coil problem but with no engine light, I don't want to try to guess which one. So far, this truck has been awesome and has needed nothing but tires and routine maintenance. I pull trailers consistently and this beast is not abused nor babied.
I'm relatively new to the 6.7 engine , I have a 2014 F-350 SRW with aprox 51,000 miles on it. Normal driving I see about 8 to 10 psi of boost even under moderate acceleration although at times it will go to about 18 psi at WOT and it does this with heavy loads. At moderate acceleration the boost will jump to 10 psi quickly but immediately stop there and sometimes as the RPM"s increase boost pressure decreases. Only issues I have had with the truck was a clogged EGR cooler.
View 2 RepliesWas back east this past weekend seeing some family. Went out with a friend of mine, who has lent me his 2011 DSG GTI APR Stage 1(car currently has 24k miles) many times in the past and it has always performed flawlessly.
We were out the other night and the car hesitated under moderate acceleration between 3500-4500rpm in second and third gears. It almost felt as though it was bucking a little, really odd. The hesitation comes in threes or fours, then moves on in the revs.
2011 SF. 52000kms.
A little while ago I noticed a brief vibration (felt through floor and steering) with normal acceleration from stand still... I attrributed this to the cold weather and perhaps oil thickening, as the problem went away after the car was warmed up. Since then I have noticed that it's continually happening on a regular basis, but only for a short period.. I was still thinking that it was the cold, but that wasn't the case because I left the car idle at start up for 20 minutes until well warm.
Now.. If I slowly accelerate (not putting much load on the car) there is no vibration at all. When the car reaches a certain speed, the vibration goes away. There is also no vibration after about 15 minutes of driving.
I had a neighbor test it with me to confirm and he felt it, and initially thought differential oil, but then suggested myriad other things from the CV boot to bearings to etc etc.
I need to take it to the dealership so they can experience the vibration but would certainly need to leave it there over night so they can check it out when "cold".
I have a 2007 Camry SE V6. Under moderate to hard acceleration, it sounds like a deep throaty sound coming from where the intake/throttle body is located, almost as if I have a SRI, but I do not. I checked for anything loose, hoses, airbox, etc. Then checked the intake resonator below and to the left of the battery, all seemed normal. Everything seems normal! Only happens when I push the accelerator a little more than usual, for example, when I go on the highway.
View 6 RepliesMy 2010 III, not 3 or Three since it is a 2010, will brake loose the tires when wet with moderate acceleration. If i floor it it will alternate spinning right to left until I back off the throttle. I"m not really complaining since I had an 08 that would not spin a tire and could not be driven in snow. Just wondering if this is normal on a 2010.
I turned right with moderate acceleration on wet pavement today and the tyres broke loose and the car was headed for the curb. Oh the traction control light does come on when this happens but, no brake application or engine speed reduction.
So I just had the 10k service done on my GTI and after I got it back everything seemed fine. That is, until under moderate acceleration there was a weird buzz or vibration that came on around 2800-3400rpm coming from what I think is the engine bay or near the firewall on the passenger side. I was able to repeat the issue multiple times and it showed up every time. However, with the car at a stop and in neutral and revving it I can't make the problem occur only when under load, in gear, and traveling at speed. If I could describe it, it sounds like a playing card against bicycle spokes (for those of us who did that when we were kids)..
Anyways, I drove it straight back to the dealer and at that point had closed their service shop but they did do the right thing and give me a loaner car until they can look at it on Monday. How the heck could this pop up after a 10k service? What all do they do besides oil change, tire rotation, and fluid inspection?
I did pop the hood and one of the side of the fuel rail sounded louder than the other, I suspected that maybe one injector is starting to go and it seemed like an isolated noise but perhaps its not an injector at all. Nonetheless it seems this is a non-related issue..
I've been told by my dealer that the 6-speed transmission in our rigs is known to shift roughly. They have therefore pronounced my truck healthy. However, I don't think I believe it. I've never seen a vehicle that lurched forward on upshifts under moderate acceleration. It behaves if I punch it. It behaves if I accelerate like my granny. Anything in between and I get a fairly violent jump at each shift point. At times, in stop-and-go traffice, I have thought the truck would jump into the car ahead of me. This behavior seems to be unrelated to which transmission mode I'm in. D, S, and Tip all do it. I love the motor in this thing, but I'm starting to hate the tranny. What should I tell the dealer to look for on the truck that might be causing this? The truck is going in next week to replace a fog light with condensation, so I'm hoping to get them to look at it then.
View 1 RepliesVehicle is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer with 123,000 miles. During moderate to hard acceleration in a straight line, especially in gears 1 to 3, the front of the car vibrates. The harder I accelerate, the worse the vibration gets. Once I get into 4th gear and get up to 40 MPH, I can put the pedal to the floor and while it will do it, it is very slight. Check engine light is off.
Interestingly, on the way to work there is a 25 MPH cloverleaf and coming out of the cloverleaf onto the highway, it did not do it until the wheels were pointed straight ahead.
Deceleration, even when aggressively downshifting, is vibration-free.
I do not believe it is ignition related - the car idles fine, has plenty of power under hard acceleration, and doesn't do it when going around that cloverleaf. (As a side note, about a year ago a plug wire went bad, leaving one cylinder with no spark. In this case the engine vibrated violently, but was obviously down on power.)
There are no strange noises in the front end. No clicking around corners typical with a failing constant velocity joint, and no mechanical thuds or sqweaks over bumps I'd expect from a failing ball joint or bushing.
I am having some unusual tire wear on the outside edges of the tires, like you would see with under-inflation, but tire pressure is fine. In my mind, this points to bad ball joints.
It still has the original constant velocity joints and axles as well as the original ball joints. The one motor mount I can see looks okay. I'm thinking in order of liklihood (most likely to least likely):
1) bad axle
2) bad ball joints
3) bad motor mount
Anything else I need to check? Wheel bearings? If I do replace the axles, I will replace the front wheel bearings while I'm in there.
After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
View 8 RepliesI am original owner of a 2000 CRV, it's in really good shape and has been maintained by me on about 99% of all repairs it has 140k total. I have this thumping noise coming through the floorboard by my feet, under moderate acceleration and it goes away at just about any speed when you quit accelerating. Sounded like a bad halfshaft, I had already replaced one so I did the other side, got worse. So I replaced the one that had been in for just 2 years--no better. Asked the auto parts store for a recommendation and went to that shop, they balanced the tires, checked rotors and concluded I was buying junky rebuild half shafts. I had them replace the one they thought was bad with another rebuild, just as bad or worse...
I took home and put in both sides with new halfshafts, I also noticed some play in jackshaft bearing and replaced that as well....no better. Shop claims that a website they subscribe to says that 50% of aftermarket halfshafts for CRV are no good. But honestly we are 5 for 5 bad, last two were new from NAPA. Pulled things apart and checked wheel bearings left side was sticky so had machine shop press one into the knuckle, right side was done about 14 months ago. Also disconnected drive line and drove it as a 2 wheel drive vehicle....no better. Would a broken tire belt only make noise on acceleration or after a corner when you accelerate? Is this a possible indication of my transaxle going out? ---
I am experiencing a power/boost pulse when under moderate to heavy acceleration. I'm wondering if this is a sign of my diverter valve failing or another issue withing the turbo system.
I don't have a boost gauge and the main pulsing seems to be between 2800 and 5k in the rpm band.
For the last couple of years, I've noticed the air flow changes from the floor to the defroster under hard acceleration. Not a big deal. This morning (7 degrees) the airflow was changing under light to moderate acceleration. It's a vacuum problem, but is there anything in particular I should be looking at? The car is running fine, no issues with stalling or hesitation.
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