Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Occasional Starting / Cranks And Fires A Few Times
Sep 26, 2011
I've been having this occasional starting issue with my truck. I turn the key and the engine acts like it's going to fire up, so I let go of the key and it doesn't start. Then I try to restart it and either it cranks and fires a few times before it starts, or it fires right up and the starter grinds because I couldn't let go of the key fast enough.
I've had this problem a few times before, but lately it seems to be happening more often. It works normally 98% of the time. Maybe I'm just not letting the engine crank long enough to get it to run before letting go of the key.
Also, the spark plugs were just changed 10k miles ago and when the truck is running it runs great.
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My 2011 f-350 6.2l cold starts hard, it cranks through 2 cycles sometimes before it fires, then it might stall. Sometimes it stalls if I put it into drive or reverse before its warmed up. It has also misfired on one or several cylinders during startup. It has also misfired while driving. It has never stalled when driving. I have replaced the canister purge valve, I have done a full tune up with all factory plugs. All with no change to how it starts. My next step is a Pcv valve, I have one coming from ford today.
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My truck's been having an occasional hard start, meaning the engine cranks strong but it fails to catch and then sputters. The 2nd start attempt usually fires up with no issues and then runs perfectly otherwise.
MPG's haven't changed, fuel filter was changed 15K ago. Air filter is clean. Plugs were changed about 10K ago. I always use Shell/Chevron gas. MAF sensor looked clean when I took it out so I didn't do anything to it.
This is starting to happen more frequently, maybe once every few weeks and I get a feeling it's the start of something. I've found myself waiting a few seconds for the fuel pressure gauge to come up before turning the key to start reliably. In the past, I could simply flick the key and it fires up the first time.
I see posts talking about the fuel pump module above the spare tire. What are symptoms of that going bad? Any pending codes that might be stored?
I'm about to get myself a scanner since I need one sooner or later. Which specific PID's to check while debugging this?
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09 corolla. Wife said it was hard to start this morning and when she got off work. it started fine right after she got home. i waited a few hours, after dinner and went out to start it and it takes the engine about 3 seconds to start.
Normally when I turn the key the engine cranks up and starts. today it cranks or turns over about 3 times before starting. and there's no error/engine lights. tested the battery, full charge. not sure what else to check.
We are in Houston TX, with about 95'F day temps, you could call it a cold start since the engine has been resting and cooling off. but not cold like freezing temp.
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I've made a video of the pumping sound in that seems to get "stuck on" repeatedly at occasional times while the car is in operation or at idle. What it is and if it should not be going on like this without stopping? The car is a 2004 Canadian model, assuming it has the coolant thermos.
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i just rebuilt the motor in my 2002 ford ranger 3.0 and it wont start it cranks over but back fires and bucks alot. took the plugs out and it gets spark and fuel. when it sparks it sparks like multiple times.
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Alright I thought changing a fuel filter was fool proof but I changed the fuel filter in my 2001 escape v6. awd and now for some reason it wont start right up like it used too before the filter change. It cranks for a few seconds then fires up and runs perfectly fine it sits for a few hours same issue where as before the filter change it fired up fine every time, what did I do wrong. 2001 ford escape...
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So it often just cranks for 15 seconds before it fires. I put the fuel pressure guage on it and you turn the key on but don't engage the starter it goes to 30 psi then back to 0 in a 2 second time frame. It then stays at zero. when you engage the starter pressure slowly goes up and it starts running while running its a consistent 60 psi.
I presume its the fuel regulator but why does it not go up to 60 psi and why does it just stop with the KOEO? Is it reasonable to just replace the regulator? or should I be replacing the fuel pump to at the same time? I will be doing this from under the truck since there is a lot of hard mounted equipment in the bed.
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My eXcursion is showing the typical signs of a failing fuel pump. It cranks and fires on a few cylinders, then quits. I released the schrader valve on the fuel rail but very little pressure is released. From these indications, and after checking for a blown fuse, it appears the fuel pump is going. I say going because it did start after this happened, but would you trust it?
I ordered a new fuel pump, it's due in tomorrow. I remember seeing instructions on how to drop the tank but can't locate them with the search function. I'm also concerned with how to remove the pump from inside the tank. I know you have to spin off the big plastic ring, how do you get the pump off the bottom of the tank?
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I was hoping to have this resolved, but it seems how I have it parked affects the cold starting of this thing. Had an issue quite a while back as listed in another thread where the truck cranks and fires then immediately dies when cold. Takes at least three times to fire. Once fired it has no problems and will start easily unless it sits for almost a days time...on flat ground.
I replaced some injectors recently since they were bad and I had the truck parked facing downhill slightly when I did that. Since the repairs, the truck would start fine while parked there. Brought my trailer home and have the truck in the street on the flat ground and once again the 3 crank starts begin.
I have attached three Excel spreadsheets of my data from today. All three are the same data log just split up for size and elimination of dead time on the original spreadsheet.
So, I am guessing I have a HPOP problem, which is probably why I was getting intermittent contribution codes when the truck is up to temp. The truck fires totally fine when the oil is hot and up to temp so hot starts are no issue. Could the pump be "stuck" or just not working right when it has sat?
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I have the notorious PO171 and PO174 codes on my 2003 5.4L that come back whenever I erase them. I cannot figure out the problem. Whenever I start the truck it cranks for 3-4 seconds before it finally fires, then rpm's are very low, then they finally pick up. I have noticed a loss in power as well. I have completed a full tune-up (spark plugs, coils, boots, filters, etc.)
I have checked the vacuum and PCV lines numerous times, I have yet to find a leak. MAF appears clean. I am running a K&N CAI setup. O2 sensors a good, replaced the gas cap. The only other problem I can see is a bad PCV valve? I hope it isn't a manifold gasket. The truck has been very well maintained and still looks brand-new throughout at 250,000 miles.
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My mother's 2002 Camry with about 60K on it has been starting hard lately. No check engine light has come on. I did a full tune up hoping the problem would be solved but no luck. The car cranks a lot before it fires. First thing in the morning it cranks more than it should, starts, and then she gets a little smoke out of it. The rest of the day it cranks a lot before firing. I'm assuming that it is a fuel system issue because if she turns the key to the run position and waits a few seconds, the car starts up normally. Sounds to me like the fuel is draining back. What controls the fuel from draining back to the tank in a 2002 model with a 4cyl, the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, or something else?
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94 Saab will not start in the mornings , it cranks but wont fire , runs fine later in day with no problems at all . Than next morning a repeat performance of not starting.
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My Focus has 102,000 miles. It has thrown a p0171 code and I have been attempting to fix it. So far this is what I have done:Changed MAF, air filter, PCV Valve, plugs, Valve cover gaskets, Bank 1 O2 sensor and fuel filter. All new. I have cleaned the throttle body, fuel rail intake manifold. Cannot hear vacuum leaks and tested for leaks with carb cleaner.
Symptoms: engine cranks but has a hard time starting, usually on second try. When tank is about half full I get Rough acceleration, higher RPMs (doesn't change gear) and engine stalls on hard left turns. Idle gets rough at times but usually stabilizes at around 700 rpms.
At the beginning, #1 spark plug chamber had a lot of oil in it. It's been a few months and no oil after Valve cover gasket and PCV change. Tested coils and the plugs get a spark. Before I start messing with the fuel pump, am I missing something else that I can do?
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My 2006 Azara has had a no start problem since about a year after we bough it new. The condition is intermittent and is not dependent on outside temperature, humidity or other conditions, It happens when the engine is cold or hot. Sometimes the problem goes away for a week or so then it comes back. It happens with either key.
The engine cranks over but does not start. Usually resolve it by sitting for 10 - 15 seconds then trying again. Sometimes have to do this two or three times before it fires. All other electrical items work ok and the battery has no problem powering accessories. I've had it into the dealer however because it is difficult to replicate, they have a hard time repairing the problem. The first time they neutralized the immobilizer and re-programmed it. The second time, I got a check engine light and they replaced the immobilizer. But the problem continues.
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For some time I have known the coils are going bad and cause occasional misfires but recently something new is added. Backfires and balking down to not moving. codes were po307 po300po430. the reader tells me the likely cause would be the vct solenoids. Also they offer a set of 8 coils at autozone with lifetime guarantee. Are these any good? I have read on here to beware of cheep coils. 2006 f150 5.4 miles is 119,000 have not changed spark plugs yet.
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Sometimes it'll start up just fine, no long crank or anything and other times she'll sit there and crank forever and not start. When it does start, it'll drive just fine, then when I turn it off and come back not even 10 minutes later it'll not start again. Does it cold and hot.
2004 F350, 6 speed manual trans
Rudy heads, ARP studs, banks air intake, banks external oil cooler, Oil filter relocation kit, EGR delete, sinister coolant filter, is mostly what I have done to it. But all those I've had on there for a year + so no recent major changes made. Had a gentleman troubleshoot saying my ficm is bad but I measured the voltage at the pins (4 pin ficm) with the truck in run and while cranking and the voltage is 47.5-48 so that rules out the ficm being bad. It's hard for me to do the troubleshooting because of the intermediate starting.
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Just today this happened out of the blue. I parked the car, turned it off, came back to the car, started it with the key, and the engine was cranking and making the proper noise, but it wouldn't start. It just kept trying to start but wouldn't.
Eventually I had it towed, but it turns out after a while it did manage to start.I don't want this problem to arise in the future, but I don't know what it is. Maybe a spark plug?
(2009 RX 350)
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 SuperCab Lariat 4x4 with 155,000 miles on it. About a week ago I replaced the from passenger hub assembly and half shaft (torn boot). When doing that, I noticed that the IWE actuator was not working right (would not compress evenly). When taking that off, there was a bunch of rust that came out of the vacuum line ports. It started moving freely after cleaning all of that out that I could (I will be replacing it soon). I assembled everything back together and all seemed OK mechanically.
I also scanned the truck and saw the code for a bad IWE solenoid so that is being replaced tonight. I also have not checked the drivers side yet.
So...now that I have done all of that, the truck started occasionally bucking/shuddering when I slow down from highway speed to about 30mph and lightly accelerate again. It does not do it every time though. There is no grinding/whining noises either. Could this be caused by the IWE system somehow? Maybe slowing losing vacuum and having one engage and the other disengaged?
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Haven experienced a couple of times now that my B6 3.2 VR6 (V6) have a little problem to start, it seem to start up fine then shuts down - and one will have to keep starting it for some time before it finaly fires up correctly........
I have not experienced yet this behaviour when the car is warm, and personally I'm starting to think about the injector coil stuff thingy - but haven't done a vag-com yet, but will do.
I know the 3.2 was only uin EU, but basically pretty much the same as the 3.6, they are both a VR system
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I have a 2008 Ford Lariat F150 with 53k miles. The transmission seems like it slips at times. Here's the scenario. When I take off from a standstill and going through the gears at a normal acceleration pace, say I momentarily lighten the acceleration pace then try to resume. At that point, the transmission seems to slip momentarily, then bumps back into the pull mode. It feels like there is slack in the drivetrain until it re-engages, or like the lockup torque converter momentarily releases until the computer has time to react to the accelerator positioner calling for more. One guy said the transmission is, at that point, between two gears... either trying to decide to downshift or to upshift, but you can feel the surge in rpm momentarily until it decides ... then bump and your off and running again. If I push the O/D button, it stops doing it. What I can do? Because the dealer can't seem to get it to act up when they test drive it. It does it fairly regularly on me though.
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