Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Noise During Left Turns
Feb 5, 2016
I am suddenly getting noise during left turns in my 2004 F-150 SCrew. I found a video where somebody found out it was the lower steering linkage and replace that.
View 7 RepliesI am suddenly getting noise during left turns in my 2004 F-150 SCrew. I found a video where somebody found out it was the lower steering linkage and replace that.
View 7 RepliesI've noticed that when I take right or left turns at slow speeds I hear a series of clunks. Sounds like a pipe rolling in the bed. Guessing it has something to do with the rear springs??
View 2 RepliesMy 04 gli makes a rubbing noise when accelerating thru hard left turns.. but weird enough i can take the same turn at the same speed in neutral and have no noise at all. I changed both front wheel bearings and cant seem to find the answer. I brought it to vw and they checked the whole suspension struts springs cv's tie rods ect. and they all checked out good they said. the car used to have a exhaust and i just recently put it back to stock, could the exhaust make the noise perhaps?
View 1 RepliesHear a small pop in the cab when I am turning left pulled left wheel everything looks fine. Ball mount maybe, I don't want to tear into it at this point.
View 5 RepliesFirst I will start off by stating that my truck is a 2005 Ford F150 2WD Regular Cab 6.5 Bed, with the V6.
My problem is, when making a left turn at low speeds, I have a grinding noise that corrects itself upon straightening out the truck. This seems to happen on turns in the parking lots etc. It almost sounds like the tires are rubbing but the tires are the same BFG's that have been on the truck for 40,000 miles and have never rubbed. I am thinking it might be the power steering pump but am unsure. I do not have access to a lift right now but I have done the shake test on all of the suspension components and nothing seems out of place or loose.
I have a 2004 2WD supercab. And am hearing a 'clunking' sound when I turn almost full-lock. Below is a summary of what I have experienced so far:
- My truck used to be lowered 2" (below stock) at the front since new. Last month I lifted it (front and rear) and it now sits 2" above stock on new rancho shocks.
- I installed a camber kit and had the front aligned (toe and camber) after the above suspension work.
- The truck drove beautifully for two weeks until one day a 'clunking' sound was heard from the front-left every time I turned left. The alignment also changed as I had to now hold the steering very slightly to the left to drive straight.
- The alignment shop re-did the toe tracking (the camber did not change) and the truck drove great for about a day. Now I can hear the same clunking sound when I turn right and the tracking is again screwed up meaning I need to hold the steering very slightly to the right to drive straight.
What parts are playing up and what may need replacing?
Once winter arrived I started having problems with my truck running like crap after warm up. However, I noted that during initial start up and lasting till the engine got to its Normal Operating Temp, it would run like a BAOH! Once the engine reached Normal Temp, it would fall flat on its face if I got into it down the road. I wasn't getting any codes, so knowing about the EPU and timing; I opted to change out the O2 sensors. Bought all 4 sensors, Bosh, installed them and within a day got a P0420, P0303; known as Cat system efficiency below threshold and a #3 misfire. (side not all plugs, timing chains, COP's, Phasers, cam positioning sensors have been replaced within the past 18 months) So I decided to take the COP off of the #3 cyl and swapped it with the #5 cylinder; still getting a misfire on #3.
Didn't pull the plugs, knowing they have less than 50,000 miles on them. The problem lasted about a week, off and on with heavy acceleration. Then last Saturday I was driving around town, came to a stop light and the engine shook hard while stopped, missing for a few seconds but not sending a code. Upon acceleration I noticed a loud ticking coming from the right (passenger) bank. The truck practically fell on its face through 3,000 rpm's. No power, and still no codes. I got home, pulled out my steth and listened. I got a loud ticking on the cover at the #3 and #4 Cyl. I know ya'll acclaim ticking to the phasers but it's a totally different sound. Its not coming from the front of the cover as it did when my phasers went out. This is strictly confined to #3 and #4. Took it to FMC., for diagnostic fee and a day later they said, symptoms of lash adjusters. I told them I'd pick up my truck.
Got in it, and drove it home and that noise is loud, echoing through the right exhaust. Seems to be running very rich, still no power what so ever and now I pull up in my driveway and instantly get these codes. P0316 (misfire on startup), P0420 Cat efficiency below threshold, and p1000 (due to resetting my computer back to stock before taking it to FMC) I thought about doing the job myself, but working 120 hours a week I don't see how, and I'll need to buy the valve spring compressor and timing chain wedge (260.00 set) So I started calling around to mechanics, 10 to be exact, none of which, will even look at the truck.
I have an 08 AWD GS350 ...
For the last few months, it has been squeaking whenever I make hard left turns, (into parking spaces etc, usually low speed). I thought it was the brakes, but just replaced all 4 pads and all 4 rotors. So that officially eliminates that.
The car doesn't have any unusual vibration, tracks straight, so I don't think its a wheel bearing or anything. I jacked the car up and tried to shake the tire/wheel to see if there was any play but don't see anything.
My wife informed me about a noise coming from the chassis of her truck.
2007 Explorer XLT 4x4, 4.0 OHV, AT, 89,000 miles on the odometer.
We took the truck to dinner last night so I could investigate the problem. This occurs while only making left hand turns at slow speed.
There is a definite clunk sound AND feel. It actually sounds and feels like we are driving over a loose manhole cover, and IT DOES feel like metal to metal contact on the driverʻs sids of the truck.
Back in January I had my right front wheel bearing and u-joint go out, so I replaced them both. At the time I didn't realize my outer stub axle shaft was wore so I just put it back in. After a little driving the right side started to "thump" and "pop" when I would make hard left turns driving around town.
I replaced the outer front stub axle shaft and seal again because the old one was worn down. This eliminated any play in the u-joint. After a bit of driving the thumping and popping noise came back.
I decided to dig into it today so I pulled it all apart. When everything is apart it turns easily, no issue at all. When I assembled the wheel bearing, torqued it to 55 ft/lbs and installed and "locked" the hub I noticed something peculiar. I can barely turn the whole assembly by hand. I have to put a good amount of force to get the whole assembly to turn at all. When I walk to the driver side with all the same parts there i can turn the wheel bearing and locked axle shaft with one finger on the studs.
I have been in this thing 5 times and can not figure out what the heck is wrong. I can't figure out why this stupid axle shaft and wheel bearing are so hard to turn, together or separately, and I can't figure out how to get my front end to stop that thumping and popping.
On left turns, even just slight left turn, but mostly when weather is humid, I get a loud squeal that sounds exactly like squealing brakes, except I am not applying brakes. May not be relevant, but this is a minivan modified for wheelchair access via a ramp that comes out on the passenger side.
View 4 Replies2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
2010 LE 4cylinder... Turning right has no noise, turning left of center gives a rumbling noise. Looked under the car for any damage or steering leakage and found nothing. Just 30K on the car still looks like new under there.
I could not find any steering problems in the stickies for this gen Camry. I could not find any TSB about this either...
Well my girls car is acting up again. when you make left turns, you can hear this real loud popping, almost cracking noise coming from the passenger side front tire. its a 06 passat with 88k miles on it. What is wrong with it??
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 Honda Civic with about 32K miles on it. Last fall, at around 23K miles, I needed new brake pads and rotors (because I waited too long on the pads). Got those replaced. A few weeks later (I think), it started making a kind of squealing noise when I make left turns. I mentioned it to my mechanic when I took it in for an oil change shortly thereafter, and he said it was probably the belt, but I could wait a bit on replacing it if I wanted to (as he knows I'm always broke).
Three weeks ago, I took the car in for another oil change and to have him change the belt. He put in a new belt, but alas, after driving the car about a mile the noise returned. I called my mechanic, and he said it might be my tensioner, but that such a new tensioner shouldn't need replacing already and that it would still be under warranty. I needed to take it to the dealer anyway because my window mechanism was broken, so while I was there, I had him check out the tensioner. He also said the tensioner was fine, and said that since the belt wasn't a HONDA belt (naturally), that might be making the noise. Last week, I took the car back to the mechanic, who ordered and installed a Honda factory belt free of charge.
Naturally, a mile later, the noise returned. I resisted every urge to drive into oncoming traffic. I used my phone to record the sound so that I could e-mail it to the dealer and my mechanic, give it a listen: [URL] ....
The car is a 2.8L w/ a manual tranny. The car was making a rhythmic clunking and clicking noise around right hand turns on the left wheel. So when the weight of the vehicle is applied to the left, that's when the noise occurs. The car has been in the shop for 6 days and the technicians have replaced both axle shafts (it was time to do so anyway) but the noise is still there!!! What could possibly be making that noise other than bad CV's? The rhythm of the noise coincides with the rotation of the wheel/shaft which is where they have focused. Could it possibly be bad strut mounts? This is driving me crazy!!! They tell me its perfectly safe to drive (how do they know this when thy don't know whats wrong?) but I can't imagine this can carry on much longer without something breaking.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 Sonata 3.3 V6 GLS (CDN model) with 102k km (63K miles). Recently, I am noticing a rotational metal-like grinding noise from the front left wheel / engine area when engaging in hard right and left turns - usually a long looped highway on-ramp or sharp 90 degree turns. The interesting thing is this only happens when I am accelerating through the turns - when I left off the gas and cruise I don't hear it anymore.
On the side, I am also getting a single clunk noise when shifting from Park to Drive and vice versa from the same area (front left wheel) - not sure if this is related (i.e. if this is all related to a failing CV joint or wheel bearing).
2014 Subaru Crosstrek XV CPO purchased December 2015.
Last month I slid out on a heavy snow day (no snow tires, I know!) on a left turn and the front passenger wheel struck the curb forcefully enough for the wheel to be angled outwards about 15-20 degrees when steering wheel was straight. Lower control arm was wrecked, had it replaced and alignment done by the local subaru pro. He noted that the caster was now 0.5 degree off, which he noted to be "within specifications". He said it's not a big deal, but if I wanted it fixed, I could have the frame pulled at a frame shop to correct.
I'm just happy to be driving my rig again, but I notice a somewhat low-pitch, pulsating, vibration-like noise whenever I make a left turn at a certain angle. It seems to resonate when I hit a "sweet spot" of speed/turn.
I made a video : [URL] ....
I recently starting noticing a very high pitched,annoying squeak on my 2004 Century.. It's most noticeable when making left turns but can sometimes be heard when going straight or making right turns.. I'm thinking it might be the metal tab/wear sensor on the brake pads rubbing on the brake rotor but not sure, haven't looked at it yet? It doesn't turn out to be the wear sensor?
View 1 RepliesJust started hearing a thumping/ rubbing sound when I make left turns (nothing moving forward or right turns). Thought it might be a tire rubbing but I can't see anything. Starting to think maybe a bad cv joint. Is their a way to check if a cv joint is bad? How hard would it be to replace a cv joint and shaft?
View 3 RepliesSo, my 2004 FX ran perfect as always when I parked it last night but this morning it just will not start. It turns over like a SOB but won't catch (Installed a new Optima Red Top about a month ago). Tried my OBDII but it's showing as "fail" or "no codes".....I tried testing it several times. I've never had ANY problems with it starting.
View 2 Replies