Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Noise At First Startup
Mar 30, 2014
I have replaced the cam phasers, tensors chains and guides 5.4 3 valve. Runs great no noise for 1,1/2 months but after it sit over night on first start up it makes all kind of noise for a few seconds then it is quiet so what would you do change the motor it has 134000 miles. I already have 800 in parts and 1000 in labor fix or replace if i replace what motor would you go with 5.4 2 valve are 4.6 which one will i need to buy vin is 1ftpw12574kd57164 the motor in it right now has 5w20 oil with the recommended motorcraft filter sounds like the chain tensors are losing pressure over night and that is the noise at first start up....
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I have a loud tapping noise in my 07 5.4 triton. when its really cold on the first start up I cant here the noise but when it gets warm its tap tap tap again.
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Today I decided to do some maintenance on the truck as it needed an oil change and some other unrelated misc stuff.
1. I seafoamed the engine thoroughly. I bought two cans of this stuff, half of a can went into the fuel, another half can in through the brake booster vacuum hose, and I dumped a full can of into the oil. Took it for a 30 minute drive, let the ol' gal smoke as it usually does on a seafoam, and then changed the oil. No noises, I noticed immediately improvement in acceleration.
2. Upon intial startup after the oil change, I thought the motor was coming apart. It was only for about two seconds, (i was counting to make sure) if it didn't have oil pressure and no noise by 3, I was shutting it off. It hasn't done it since.
Is it possible I just knocked some crap loose in the heads causing the oil drain a lot faster into the pan than I expected? I'll try it again in a few hours after everything has cooled off and oil has drained back into the pan, but I wanna make sure I didn't damage anything. Still drives good, no problems, no noises since.
The last oil change I did, I didn't do a Seafoam, but I figured with winter coming it's a good idea to get her running in top form. I used Pennzoil Platinum 5w20, with a Motorcraft oil filter for those wondering.
Truck has 133K on the clock, and it's had the slight cam phaser tick since I've purchased it, no other problems. I bought it almost a year ago.
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Sounds like a rod knock on startup but quiets after idle down. what gives and can this be a big problem? 75000 mi.
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I have a 2004 F150 with 195,000mi. For the last several moths the truck has had a rattle on startup, some days it is barely noticable and only on cold starts, other days it is loud and occurs on every startup. The truck was most recently serviced at the Ford dealer and is filled with Motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend and Motorcraft filter Every change before was either Motorcraft syn blend or Penzoil Platinum (I have always used Motorcraft filters on it) and the noise continued after oil changes so I don't think the drain back valve is the issue. I replaced the cam phasers, timing chains, chain tensioners, and guides about 15,000 miles (2 years) ago and the vct solenoids shortly after that. Here is an audio clip of the noise (I know the truck also has an exhaust manifold leak, I plan on replacing the manifold while im working on it
Is this noise the lash adjusters or have the cam phasers failed again (they were dorman parts)? If it is the lash adjusters, can they be replaced without removing the cams? will failed adjusters be obviously damaged? Should I also replace the cam followers? do i need to replace all 24 at once or can i safely replace only damaged ones or maybe just 1 bank (noise seems to only be coming from the pass side)?
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We've got a 2006 F150 with a 5.4 in it. One of the new kids was told to change the spark plugs, then when I went to start the truck the next day it was missing bad. Plugged in the Ford IDS, number 7 cylinder is dead. Only codes are for that cylinder misfire, and random miss on startup. So, I double checked the kids work and it was all fine. Tried putting a new plug in, didn't work. Moved the coil to a different cylinder to see if the miss would jump, stayed on number 7.
Used a noid light to verify COP harness was working, and it was. Put a new coil on it anyway since I had one, still missing. Used noid light to verify signal going to injector for the cylinder. Signal was good, replaced the injector for the cylinder. Still misfiring. Ran a compression test and the cylinder has good compression. The threads for the plug are fine, not cross threaded or torn out. The only thing I can think is that the PCM has gone bad in a way that its firing the injector/COP, but doing so at the wrong time some how.
Every other cylinder is running fine, O2 sensors fine. PCM isn't trimming anything back to account for anything, and if it was it would do it to multiple cylinders to keep the engine balanced. Cant think of any more tests, and I don't believe there is anyway that the airflow could be restricted to only 1 cylinder, but I could be wrong. Wanna try and solve this to keep from sending it to the dealer.
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My vehicle has 113 k and when I start it cold there is a whining sound for about 20 seconds and then increases in pitch and then slowly winds down to a stop. Does not do it when motor is warm. What it might be?
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When I turn my key the car makes an awful grinding noise and then starts up fine. What is this and should I have it looked at?
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I went to school and parked at 8:00 AM. Came out at 1:00 in the afternoon and started the car. The crank was fine but for about one second the RPM dipped to around 300 before recovering to the normal 900-1000 RPM like that of a cold start. I replaced the alternator myself 1500 miles ago so I don't think that's it.
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On startup my 2005 Prius standard produces a low level cyclic noise which sounds like a hacksaw. This noise lasts for several minutes and is not affected by putting the car in motion or leaving it parked. The noise seems to be coming from the Synergy Unit but who knows?
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A few weeks back I had an issue with my transmission, while moving the vehicle I noticed white smoke when starting the engine that would go away after a couple seconds.
If I let the engine warm up, it starts smoking again, removing the radiator cap and it stops smoking. I have checked spark plugs, fuel injectors, cylinders for water, but cannot find water anywhere. No water is showing up in the oil either. The transmission repair is on hold (hoping to just replace solenoid pack) while I try to figure out the engine issue. But at this point I am not sure what could be causing the smoke.
It's white smoke, 4.6 v8 on a 2008 Explorer. Is it the head gasket? Or am I overlooking something?
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I went to throw my truck in 4wd the other day and now I'm experiencing a humming noise, but only when in 4 wheel. It's only noticeable when I'm in 4 wheel and I'm off the accelerator or coming to a stop, soon as I accelerate, come to a stop, or take it out of 4wd the noise disappears.
Only other symptom was I tried putting it in 4-low the other day and all it did for a good minute was rev up a bunch, but I switched it back to 2wd and 4-hi and low worked after that. 4wd does still work just fine, it's just buzzing and it's annoying the heck out of me
I did a search, not just on this forum either, all I keep getting is the old "buzzing 'til I put it in 4wd" topic. Hoping to get an answer before I start dropping money trying to find it on my own. I'm not used to these new-style 4wd systems so I'm lost for knowledge here.
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I am thinking about getting a cat back setup on my truck, 2004 SCREW 5.4l 101XXX miles, I drie 65 miles roundtrip to work and have heard of the low in cab noise of the MBRP single out kits. My question is, who has an exhaust and tows with the overdrive off? How is the noise? My wife and I take our camper of a few ling trips a year, and I really dont want to listen to a loud exhaust for 10 hours when I am running down the hwy at 3000 rpm. I would really like to hear fro people running the MBRP setup, should I leave it stock? or how is the noise level.
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A little background. I bought the 2008 F250 XL, 5.4L with 145,000 miles in December. It had a bad engine (dropped valve). I had the engine replaced with a remanufactured one (Performance Products) and started driving it this month. To date, I have put about 700 miles on it with an oil/filter change at 500.
So, here is the newest problem. Yesterday I finished changing my body mount bushings (with Daystar polyurethane ones) and went for a test drive. When I started the engine, a smoke cloud caught my eye. I took a closer look and noticed it was a gray smoke. I jumped out and ran around to smell the smoke - it had a gas smell. I did not test for smoke after my test drive.
So here is my question. It is obviously burning excess fuel on startup. That would mean that one or more injectors are leaking down after shutdown, correct? Testing this would be done by performing a leakdown test? How do I go about doing this WITHOUT any special equipment?
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Just had new full struts installed as well as rear shocks on 04 F150, supercrew. There is a noise that only happens when you hit a bump. I initially thought it was the strut boot but having those replaced, and the noise still there means it was not that. What I should look at sounds like something is loose on the front end. Had an alignment done and they said all was tight.
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In this video I go over in detail the procedure to swap out the Cam Phaser to get rid of that annoying knocking noise at idle! It is easier than you think. The procedure is the same for all 4.6l and 5.4l 3valve engines.
Ford 4.6l 3v & 5.4L 3v Camshaft Phaser Knocking Noise Fix - YouTube...
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I noticed the problem today when I was driving to the store. I was going around 60 and went to pass a car. As soon as I hit the gas there is a popping noise coming from the engine compartment and it had no power. It only does it between 50-65 mph.
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My truck has 91,000 miles and started last week with a tapping noise one the right side. Mechanic said could be cam phaser, lifters or crank case problem....
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Read everything I could and couldn't find a problem/solution similar to mine:
- Replaced broken (in three pieces) actuator on driver's side. Also replaced hub assembly (bearings went bad). Afterward started getting the grinding noise all the time in 2wd that goes away in 4HI.
- Replaced the entire hose assembly since I was not getting vacuum at driver side end hose. Still wasn't getting vacuum, turns out passenger side actuator diaphram was completely torn up as well (checked vacuum with hose on passenger actuator, not removing and plugging like I should have), so replaced the passenger side actuator too.
- Driver side grinding noise went away completely, now getting grinding noise on passenger side ONLY WHEN PRESSING ACCELERATOR. Take foot off accelerator and coast down road/highway noise goes away. Noise also goes away when putting truck in 4HI.
My latest actions: I've checked vacuum at both ends of hose while someone in park throttles truck up to 3k rpm, vacuum doesn't appear to change at either hose end while opposite side is attached to its actuator. Replaced passenger side actuator again thinking the first was defective, no change in grinding noise. Greased ring on wheel hub where actuator attaches thinking I was getting a leak at the actuator/hub seal, no change. Still only a grinding noise when accelerating, not while coasting with truck running.
The perplexing part: If it is a vacuum issue, how is it I am getting good enough vacuum from the driver side but not from the passenger side, since the driver side hose connection is downstream from the passenger side? Also, how am I not seeing the vacuum drop when checking at the hose end of either side while someone throttles truck up in rpms?
My thoughts: Definitely a vacuum leak somewhere in the system, minor enough to not notice right away on gauge, thinking to check the vacuum box and check valves next. Also thinking the passenger side hose from solenoid has a small leak causing the issue on the passenger side and not the driver side anymore, so thinking of putting the old hose back in to see if there is any change (I had replaced the hose prior to knowing the passenger actuator was torn up so I am not sure if the hose is really bad).
3-piece actuator I described above in picture for reference. Honestly I was not surprised, this has been my luck with this truck.
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5.4 sound like a diesel when idling?
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I've been noticing more and more lately that while my trucks in 1st or maybe 2nd gear, say, slowly coasting around a parking lot for example, there's a whining noise coming from either the rearend or the tranny (cant tell which). It gets louder and more high pitched as I move faster then disappears as soon as the truck shifts gears..
Is this something serious like my transmission on its way out? From what I gather a lot of people seem to have a similar thing going on.. From what I can remember my truck has done this since I bought it, but lately (and maybe its just me) I seem to notice it more like maybe its getting louder..
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