I have no vacuum coming from the engine to the IWE solenoid. This is making my hubs stay locked all the time. where this line from comes from and how to fix this. Which line is the line from the engine, the one with the T in it or the other one?
5.4L V8 2004 New Style
I recently started to notice what sounds like a vacuum cleaner coming from the engine at start up, usually in the morning. The sound continues for about a minute or less then goes away. Haven't noticed it after repeated starts during the course of the day. Car runs fine, no CEL's.
View 4 RepliesI have 97 4x4 f-150 V6 4.2 litre that in 2wd tries to go into 4wd causing a grinding then a thump. When I put the truck into 4wd there is no grinding or thumping.
I believe one of the vacuum solenoids could be bad. Just was wondering which one would cause it to want to go into 4wd while in 2wd. The left most solenoid looking under the hood is the 4wd and the other with the pink vacuum is the 2wd.
I have no vacuum from the solenoids but from the lines going into them.
1997 f150 electronic 4wd not working, lights on dash not working(they light up on start up) replaced transfer case motor still not working, checked all fuses, Do not feel or hear clicks on vacuum solenoid, Top vacuum lines on both have vacuum. Where do I go from here? What do I check next....
View 9 RepliesSo getting the lovely cel and its bank 2 vct solenoid. Oh fum because with bank two I have to move the power steering reservoir. I just got the part in from amazon sadly it doesn't have the torque screw so sending it back so it will be another 2-3 days. My question is is there anything too look for or tricks? I have the 04 5.4 so im hoping it goes like a breeze but nothing.
View 2 RepliesYesterday after work, i got in my truck and it started right up, no problem. my stereo has been giving me some fits the past few days, looks like everything is on but no sound, and was thinking it might be a fuse so i proceeded to shut off my truck and take a quick look at the fuse box. didn't find anything quickly fuse wise, so i got back in the truck to go home and turned the key and nothing. no whine from the starter, no click click click like a dead battery, but i do here a single click from the relay switch as i left the case off to do a more thorough investigation on the stereo when i got home. anyway.. here is all i have ran through.
1. Made sure the battery is good, even tried jumping it for good measure..took cables off and made sure they had clean connections.
2. Switched out the relay, and fuses related to the starter in fuse box.
3. Put the truck in Neutral, thinking safety switch.. wiggled it around while trying to start it as well
4. Crawled under the truck, took a screw driver and bypassed the switch all together to make sure it wasn't the starter, starter kicked in like it was new, but no truck start. (key was in the on position)
5. Checked the solenoid post with a test light to see if it had power on key turn, nothing.
6. Checked the fuse box and surrounding wires to make sure i didn't bump anything when taking off the cover..
From all of this it sounds like some safety switch that isn't giving power, otherwise i would have thought the truck would have started when i bypassed the switch on the solenoid. Just seems very odd the timing of it and i have not had any previous issues like this.. just out of the blue, literally less than 5 minutes from starting the truck without issue.
I have a 2010 f 250 super-duty and i cannot get vacuum past the solenoid mounted on top of the radiator. Ford has given me nothing but bad advice. I know i have a vacuum leak after the solenoid and need to replace the lines going to the two hubs but when i switch on the 4wd and hook up a vacuum gauge the vacuum is good up to the solenoid about 12 inches. i constantly have 12 volts going to the center lead but nothing else in the other two leads either in 4 high, 4 low, or 2wd. Am I missing something here? shouldn't there be a voltage change when i turn the switch to 4wd to actuate the vacuum solenoid to let the vacuum pass thru the solenoid? I have tried replacing the solenoid but that did not work. Also use rubber vacuum line and make at down to the hubs?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2013 6.7 and i cant seem to get my 4wd to work in auto position on hubs i think i have it narrowed down to the solonoid for it but cant seem to find location on it.
View 3 RepliesWhere is the plug on the transmission to disconnect the TCC solenoid? I am trying to diagnose a lockup issue and need to disable the clutch from engaging for a test run.
View 1 RepliesJust got 2005 screw fx4. Seemed to run ok 115000 mi.Had exhaust leak,I put on 3" cat back on. Then I noticed tapping at front of the engine.Turns out tim. chain guides are broken. looks like very common prob after reading many forum/threads. Anyway got timing chain kit, phasers, selinoids. Truck runs and sounds great.But so far had truck back 2weeks stalled 2x at idle.What next??
View 14 RepliesLong story short, I have a small vacuum leak in the 4wd system. I disconnected the lines going to the hubs to prevent grinding them to pieces as they are brand new. This, of course lock the front hubs in and disengages the X-fer case in 2wd.
It is not engaging in 4wd unless I select it, so I don't imagine it hurting anything in the X-fer case or anything. Other than the extra rolling mass, is this okay to operate at until I resolve my vacuum issue, provided I close all openings and places for trash to get in?
I recently had a Jasper rebuilt engine installed in my Ford E150. Since than my check engine light keeps coming on and the computer is saying my cas air mix is "lean". The instaler says i need a new fuel pump.Another mechanic says it is more likely a vacuum problem.I know it's possible that the fuel pump is bad bur since this has just started since the install, I don't believe it can be the fuel pump unless it's just one hell of a coincidence.
View 6 RepliesWhen the truck is idling it has a weird vibration and their is a hum that comes from the engine. It then clicks like my clutch fan disengages or engages and both go away. I have only noticed at stop signs and sitting in a parking lot. 2004 5.4L....
View 2 RepliesMy mom gave me a 2004 f150 lariat with a 5.4l and were having an issue with the engine when coming to a stop the engine wants to stall out and runs like a bag of hammers and sounds like its going to explode then i give it a shot of fuel and it runs fine for a a while and then does it again. I brought it to the local dealer and he said it was either the vct or the cam phaser bank 2 so i changed both and it still does it just wondering before I keep getting intake cam sensor code retarded and a bunch of other codes but we replaced the cam sensor already.
View 2 RepliesI have an 04 F150 (4.6, auto, 4x4, SCrew) with 300,000 miles. Any success modifying existing 4X4 IWE actuators so they are always locked in?
My last set of actuators didn't last long My vacuum is too low under hard acceleration... Actuators partially engage leading to early failure.
I'd like to take an actuator apart, modify it so it's always locked in. Some loss of mileage? Other ramifications?
I have a 2004 FX4 4x4 ... Four wheel drive is not working!!!!! Turn the dash switch to 4High or 4Low and the lights come on in my dash gauge cluster. So my 4x4 lights come on as if the 4x4 is working but my front wheels do not turn. What I have done:
Drove the truck forward while I watched the front drive shaft going from the transfer case to the front differential. Did this in 2WD and then in 4WD high. While driving forward in 2WD the front drive shaft did not move. Once put into 4WD high and driven forward the front drive shaft was turning. I guess this tells me that my transfer case and shift motor are working?
I jacked up my driver side front wheel and turned the tire by hand while the truck was running in 2WD. The tire spun freely and the CV axle (half shaft) did not turn. Then turned 4x4 dash switch to 4WD high and turned the tire again by hand and the CV axle turned while turning the tire. I guess this indicates that the IWE actuator was working....I guess???
Repeated the process above for the front passenger side of the truck and the tire would always spin freely regardless if in 2WD or 4WD. I could not get the CV axle to turn while spinning the tire on the passenger side when the truck was running and switched to 4WD
I checked the vacuum solenoid near the battery mounted on the firewall. The vacuum line supplying vacuum to solenoid was working and pulling vacuum. I did a series of test in conjunction with the dashboard 4x4 selector and the Vacuum Solenoid seemed to be working properly.
Crawled under the truck while the engine was running and pulled the vacuum line off the nipples of each IWE Actuators (drive and passenger side) put my finger over the lines and felt decent vacuum at each end of each vacuum line.
So dash switch and 4x4 light works stays on solid and bright does not flicker
Vacuum solenoid and vacuum lines seem to be working
Transfer case and shift motor seem to be working
Driver side IWE actuator seems to work
Front passenger side Actuator does not seem to be working??? Why I am so confused about this is because in HOURS of Internet research it seems that this Actuator is not allowed to engage by vacuum pressure. When I disconnect the vacuum line to the passenger side actuator I expected to hub to lock, but it did not, the tire would turn but the CV axle wouldn't? If I replace the passenger side IWE actuator will this fix my four wheel drive? Or is there something else I am missing??
I just bought an '04 F150 from a friend. It has 250K miles on it. When I got the truck there were no tapping noises coming from the engine. Now that I changed the oil, at start up till about 5 miles down the road, I hear the tapping noise. I put Castrol high mileage 5W-20 in it. Could it just be the oil I'm using or something more expensive?
View 9 RepliesThere had been a lot of discussion about the engine light coming on and the Engine fail safe mode. A lot of folks said the dealer could not fix it. It happened to me and my dealer fixed it. This is what the dealer did to correct the problem
EEC Tested
Code P2106
Disconnected all wheel speed sensors and reprogramed PCM per SSM 17272 and Ford Hotline
No more problems.....
I have a f150 with a 5.4 triton I have noises coming from the engine loud when cold get quiet as you increase rpm almost sounds like the valves if you go under truck noise gets louder truck has less than 68000 miles.
View 2 RepliesOk, I have 1997 Ford Ranger, 4cyl, manual transmission, and more miles than I'd like to admit to.
Yesterday, I noticed that one of the vacuum lines was coming dangerously close to hitting the serpentine belt on the front of the engine. The clamp that normally holds the vacuum line in place rusted away a decade ago, so I decided to use some velcro ties to attach the line to the positive battery cable. I didn't twist or pull on the cable in any way and the vacuum line isn't applying any force to the cable.
I get in the truck a few hours later, hit the key and I get >click<, but nothing out of the starter. One click when the key is in the start position, nothing more (as opposed to click-click-click).
Not thinking about my repair earlier, I went down to Autozone and had them test the battery - 12.8V and 550CCA, no problem there.
So then, I thought well since the click is coming from the starter relay, maybe that's where the problem is. I read on another forum that sometimes the starter relay can be resurrected temporarily by hitting it with a hammer. Which I did. And it did work! Now the truck is starting up normally every time, but I'd like to replace whatever was bad.
My questions :
1. Did I prove anything by hitting the starter relay with a hammer and then starting the truck?
2. Should I still be looking at the battery cables?
3. Should I stop hitting random parts with a hammer and take this truck down to a real mechanic before I do serious damage?
I tugged on the little hose on the back pass. side of the engine,(5.4),...
and I could hear the vacuum leak that is apparently causing the erratic idle, and PO171 & PO174 to come up.
I know this hose is hooked to the Charge motion Control Valve on the back of the manifold,..I can't imagine what it does, as it terminates with some kind of plug or check valve??? Haynes say's to remove the entire manifold to get to the CMCV.
I can see it with a mirror,. I am thinking maybe long needle nose from Harbor freight,...bend the tip short,..maybe be able to change it out?????