Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: No Codes / Low Idle / High STFT And Load?
Apr 11, 2012
For the techs in here, I have a data logger (AutoTap) and the symptoms are low idle and sometimes it runs rough idling and driving. It had me thinking the fuel pump was going out. That is not the case. I did get into part swapping mode so I have new plugs and coils and new VCTs all in the last 24 hours. The engine has 85K miles on it (rebuilt ford long block), truck had 150K. I'm not sure what parts were replaced when the longblock was replaced but I'm guessing the 02's are original.
Data that looks odd to me in the Autotap real time data logging is this:
- STFT Bank 2, goes from 10-15% and climbs till its over 300% and then the truck goes into Open Loop due to an error (per the Autotap) but it never says what error and the CEL never lights. Idle goes up when its in open loop and then after a minute or two it will drop back into closed loop.
- Fuel pressure never drops below 37
- Idle will drop to 250rpm
- Engine load at idle is 25%?! With AC on and idling (at 550rpm) engine load is 42%? Seems high no?
Nothing else other than the STFT Bank 2 and the high engine load seems out of miss. No misfires, codes, etc. What else should I look at?
Other background/patient history:
- Alternator #3 was installed 2 weeks, It replaced alternator #2 that went in 4 months ago to replace the original alternator (144K miles). Both died and caused low voltage/battery dying symptoms and verified by volt meter.
- FPDM was replaced proactively 8 months ago just because I don't want it to break down when I'm towing my race car.
- I have not tried cleaning MAF, EGR?, IAC, nor have I replaced O2s. The only thing that leads me to believe MAF might need cleaning is the load?
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2005 Ford F150 lariat 5.4
I had a misfire under a bit of a load (acceleration) and up hills. I changed spark plus with OEM Motor craft ones, truck ran super nice for a couple week.
Had the engine light flash, slow down and the RPM go up a tiny bit then back down and the light goes off
Now I'm back to miss fire different location, and a rough idle. I've swapped coil packs around and the miss fire stayed on cylinder 4.
Spark plug screwed or injector or ?????
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2005 f150 5.4.
I have a slightly rough idle and can feel a miss at 1600 to 2000 RPM. Sometimes running about 65 MPH up a slight grade I can slowly press the gas pedal and the engine will begin to miss much worse, causing the truck to shake pretty bad. When it gets this bad it will slowly flash the CEL and I get a P0306 code (Cyl 6 missfire).
The truck has 148000 Miles on it and the plugs were replaced at approx 120000 by the dealer.
In the last week I have replaced the plug in cylinder 6 (looked ok) and have replaced all the COP's along with the fuel filter and the injector on #6.
I haven't been able to get it flash the CEL light or throw a code since replacing the COPs though and I am at a loss at to what to try next.
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I bought a 04 FX-4 a couple months ago with 102k on it. Brought it back to selling dealer, they replaced #1/#6 coils, its ran great till this past week. Again it has stumbled a couple times this week. It only seems to have the miss at idle (comes and goes) take off from light, within 50 feet its running like a champ again. I cleared the codes (disconnect battery)and now it seems my idle is not steady, it fluctuates. Is the idle a product of the codes?
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I just received a 06 F150xl with a 5.4 triton and idles rough with the following codes! p0357 p0012 p0340 p0344 p0351 p0352 p0356 p0358 p0357 p0102 p0113 p0353 p0354 p0355 It's amazing the truck even runs and with no light on but it will accelerate. someone mentioned to clear the codes and drive it 50miles or so and read them again.
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My 2004 f150 has always been great to me. all the way till now at 255k miles. My truck is misfiring really bad. Here are the codes I have :
P0506 low idle (because of the misfire)
P0356 ignition coil F (6) primary/ secondary circuit
P0308 Cylinder 8 misfire
P0174 system too lean (Bank 2, right side of engine)
p0316 misfire detected on startup
This problem happened 2 days ago. I reset the codes and they all come back together in 10 minutes. the misfire is very bad. I wonder why coil 6 has a fault code but number 8 has the misfire code.
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I tugged on the little hose on the back pass. side of the engine,(5.4),...
and I could hear the vacuum leak that is apparently causing the erratic idle, and PO171 & PO174 to come up.
I know this hose is hooked to the Charge motion Control Valve on the back of the manifold,..I can't imagine what it does, as it terminates with some kind of plug or check valve??? Haynes say's to remove the entire manifold to get to the CMCV.
I can see it with a mirror,. I am thinking maybe long needle nose from Harbor freight,...bend the tip short,..maybe be able to change it out?????
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5.4 3v. my last few weeks have not made me a fan. Here are the details:
I bought a 2008 F150 XL 5.4 3v with a cam phaser knock. Have done other timing jobs in past with no trouble so I was not too afraid to tackle this one. famous last words...opened the motor (shout out to the passenger side valve cover and its designer here) and found semi damaged roller follower on driver side. Worn cam lobe on the corresponding lobe and a loose chain on passenger side. proceeded to :
Change all timing components: phasers, chains, tensioners crank sprocket, all applicable bolts and BOTH cams as well as all lash adjusters and roller followers. most looked fine in fact all really did with a bit of wear on a few roller followers but only one bad one. engine didn't look to bad pretty clean.
Double and triple checked my timing chains and it was spot on. dark link on spot on crank, two dark links on the L and R dead on. put it back together. oh yes, changed all plugs with motorcraft ones, didn't even break one. did not change vct solenoids because I falsely assumed I could change the later easily if needed. they looked ok. screens intact etc... silly me for not realizing how kind Ford was in 2007 and later to necessitate removal of valve cover. I was reading a previous one on the how tos and assumed later models would be the same since it was the same sensor...
Cranked truck ran great. I mean perfect. sounded perfect. ran like a scalded cat. till it got to hot idle then it started doing its thing. rattle shake till you revved it. ran fine just wouldn't hot idle fine especially in reverse or under slight load. replaced driver side vct since ford only had one and I started on the easy side ordered the other one waiting for it. seemed to improve dramatically meanwhile I am driving this truck to test it. I drove it to work 50 miles each way and it ran great.
After a few trips it popped the P0420 light, seemed to run ok, cleared it watched it wouldn't come back. O2 sensor did seem to imply a bad cat on bank 1 since it seemed sensor two was mimicking sensor one and not staying stead like the other bank. still ran fine,
So I decided to check back pressure on the cat. I pulled sensor one out of bank one (really a joyously tight squeeze in there) hooked up my gauge and got 0 back pressure. revved it and all nothing. hooked sensor back up pulled truck out of shop and it commenced to running like crap. I mean bad. running worse than before I got it. Popping P0012 code continuously, and tons of misfire codes associated with bank 1 ..cyl 3 etc.. I tried swapping coils, pulled coils and checked spark with a tester and firing away looks like tons of good spark.
Now the weird part is : looks like bank one is dead. I can unhook any coil pack and/or injector and it runs the same and sounds like it is missing. if I unhook one off of bank 2 it almost dies or does. so bank 2 seems to be running fine. it will start and run but sounds like it missing sets flashing check engine light and backfires and stalls like crazy. I even second guessed my pressure gauge and unhooked exhaust manifold from pipe and it sounds even prettier when it backfires out of there but no change. I pulled cam sensors and cleaned it again and even tried swapping them since they looked identical but no change so I put them back.
Now I can only surmise that I am out of time somehow? or I have a gremlin perhaps? I like working on cars (usually) but this one is getting old. how do I verify what is wrong. if it is timing related how do I verify that now definitively once my marks moved I really cant figure out how to tell if it is in time? Since it has all new parts and they all ran beautifully till now. could it possibly be the vct solenoid doing all this? I plan on changing it when it comes in but surely it cant cause this many problems.. I unhooked it no change, and it does it at a cold idle and any rpm. really runs worse at idle but bad at any rpm.
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I recently purchased a Ford pickup. I bought a 2004 F-150 with the 5.4L 3V engine. I have only driven it for about 300 miles so far and am having problems. The engine has 200,000 miles on it. I have read several posts on here about the cam phasers which I believe that I may have some issues with. The engine will run good when cold, on the road, etc. The engine does have a slight ticking after it warms up (cam phasers?). When I come to a stop after the engine is operating temperature, the engine will start to miss and shudder and all 4 above codes come active and are also pending (8 codes in total).
All 4 codes are logged at the same time. I have replaced both cam position sensors, both sensor ends and terminals for cam position sensors, checked wiring around rear of engine (does not appear to be rubbed through), all plugs were replaced, and all COP boots are good. Is there anything that can cause these codes that may not be the actual cam position sensors, ie. VTC, COPs, cam phasers? What pins the cam position sensors come to on the ECU (so I can ohm the entire wire harness)?
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
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I recently purchased my first Ford pickup. I bought a 2006 F-150 with the 5.4L 3V engine. I have only driven it for about 300 miles so far and am having problems. The engine has 146,000 miles on it. I have read several posts on here about the cam phasers which I believe that I may have some issues with. The engine will run well when cold, on the road, etc. The engine does have a slight ticking after it warms up (cam phasers?). When I come to a stop after the engine is operating temperature, the engine will start to miss and shudder and all 4 above codes come active and are also pending (8 codes in total).
All 4 codes are logged at the same time. I have replaced both cam position sensors, both sensor ends and terminals for cam position sensors, checked wiring around the rear of engine (does not appear to be rubbed through), all plugs were replaced, and all COP boots are good. Is there anything that can cause these codes that may not be the actual cam position sensors, ie. VTC, COPs, cam phasers? What pins the cam position sensors come on the ECU (so I can ohm the entire wire harness)?
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
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I've got a 2006 F150 FX4 with a 5.4L 3V
A couple of months ago, I got a random "amber wrench light" on the dash. After I shut the vehicle off, it would go away. Over the last month, it's been coming back on more frequently....pretty near every time I drive the truck. I'm also noticing a bit of a dead spot in the pedal at times....though it's never failed me completely.
After a quick Google search, I was led to believe it could be a throttle body issue. Before replacing the throttle body, it was suggested to remove and clean the throttle body itself....which I did.
I'm still getting the amber wrench light, but now I'm also getting a random high idle after driving. If I throw it in park, it will idle up to 2,000RPM. I initially assumed I may have created a vacuum leak of some sort, but when I shut the engine off and restart it (or even blip the key off and on again quick before the engine dies, it comes back to life and idles fine? This tells me that it isn't a vacuum issue.
The strangest part, is that it's not tripping any codes what so ever?
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I will try to keep this short. Picked up a 2000 f-150 4.2 for my nephews first truck last night. Bought it blind against my better judgement, but the price was right. Got it home, odometer didn't work, fixed the solder joint and was happy it only had 132k on it. Heater core was plugged solid. Got it flushed and at least now its has luke warm heat until I have time for a full coolant flush and new core.
Next on my list is the high idle and engine lights. Its idles around 1300-1700, cold or hot sometimes it drops down. I only have a cheap scanner, but I have 2 codes. PO171 and PO174. Where should I start with diagnosing this? I would assume vacuum leak. Any common spots to check on these?
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My '03 Ranger is having a high idle problem. It's a 3.0, manual, 2wd, 141,000 miles. When it's cold it will idle at about 1500 but once I drive it, even just to the end of the block, it will idle at about 3000 and shoot up towards that between shifts. At a traffic light it will idle at 3000 and maybe go down to about 2500. If I bog it down with the clutch it goes right back up once I put the clutch back in or put it in neutral.
I replaced the IAC, no luck. I cleaned the MAF and checked the voltage on the TPS and it is good. I replaced the PVC valve, but the old one was fine anyway. I've sprayed around with carb cleaner and don't notice any difference. I've plugged it into my dad's AutoTap which lets me monitor everything on my laptop and the only thing I can see that looks suspicious is that even with the engine off, the Absolute Throttle Angle reads 18.8%. If I step on the gas with the engine off it goes up to 91.8% so I would imagine that just has to do with the function of the TPS and probably isn't out of the ordinary, but I don't really know what that number means or what the Absolute Throttle Angle is or is supposed to be.
Short of taking the intake plenum off and physically inspecting it for cracks, I'm stumped.
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Have a friend and looking at his truck for him. He was towing a boat and climbing a steep grade hill. As he described it, it felt like he lost all power. Did manage to get it to the top of the hill and stopped to check it out.
Noticed the under of the truck dripping oil. Checked the motor oil and none on the stick. Put 4 quarts in the motor, started it back up and oil pressure is good and motor sounds fine.
The strange thing is the motor is dry. Can not find where the oil leaked out. All the oil is located on the transmission and transfer case. I'm not too familiar with these Triton 5.4's but where could that oil possibly have come from? I'll re-look this morning.
Also, with oil in motor, and it is idling, there is no oil leak or drip anywhere. Is there a pressure regulator in this oil system and the load he was exerting cause it to release?
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1999 F-250 V10 .... Truck was running perfectly fine except for a random high idle sometimes when put into park but if I gave it a good rev it would drop back down to normal. I assumed it was a dirty IAC or something and figured I'd get around to it later kinda deal. I also had a coolant leak from what I thought was the intake manifold to head gasket on the drivers side right in the front where the upper radiator hose meets the intake manifold so i added water here and there no issues.
One night I need to pull a trailer and didn't have the wiring set up for it in the back so I stopped at advance auto and bought one of those kits that plugs into your brake wiring harness and then plugs into the trailer. I tested it in the parking lot with the trailer and it was all sorts of messed up. My reverse lights stayed on my brake lights didn't work either etc. Turns out it was for the wrong years but plugs matched up coincidentally. I returned the kit and drove home just fine.
Next morning on my way to work truck started misfiring like crazy idle was bouncing all over the place lack of power etc. I took it to advance again after work even though no check engine light came on I still pulled 2 codes. P0300 which is multiple random misfire (no specific bank) and a P0401 which is an EGR Insufficient Flow code. I took it by a local shop I get my oil down at and they told me it was probably the fuel pump that they go bad in these trucks alot.
So I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter. Nothing changed so I thought maybe that coolant leak had dripped down to the plugs or possibly the intake gasket was getting worse and leaking coolant into the air flow ports since it was thought to already be a problem. So i pulled everything off the top and firgured id go through it all why I had it apart. I replaced the intake gasket but noticed when i took it apart that it wasnt the gasket that the head it self had a small pin hole leak in the very front where the coolant fed into below that upper neck that bolts to the intake manifold. I patched it with jb weld/ quick steel/ and rtv. Yes I know it wont last but just for the time being until I figure out the main issue. Replaced the plugs with motocraft plugs checked all my coils for grime and corrosion or what not and they all seemed fine and cleaner than expected. replaced the gaskets and threw it all back together. I also cleaned out the EGR and IAC with air and brake cleaner etc.
Blew all my lines out with air and everything seemed fine. I also replaced my DPFE sensor. Started it up ran fine at idle for like 5 min no coolant leaks or anything so I thought I was golden then about 500 ft through the neighborhood on a test drive the exact same misfire came back doing the same thing with the idle etc. I'm going to check my fuses tonight but I'm starting to think that maybe when I plugged in that wrong wire adapter for the trailer that I may have screwed up something with the PCM. Only because the lights were all out of wack and literally the next morning I started having these issues. I'm lost if its not a fuse. I would really hate to buy a PCM and not need it especially after all the parts I've bought and not needed already.
The vacuum lines all seemed fine and intact as well with no cracks or leaks.
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I have a 2004 f150 lariat crew cab 4x4 with the 5.4 3 valve. It now has 113 000 miles. Since i got it at 85 000 miles its had a hiss when the engine was under load. So like light acceleration or driving into wind. The guy i bought it from said that it had a manifold leak so that's what i figured it was. I got the manifold fixed and it still hisses. There are no check engine lights. It almost feels like my engine lags when it starts hissing. It sounds like its coming from right on the other side of the fire wall. What it could be?
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I have a 2004 150 with 165,000 miles I sometimes pull a 5 by 8 trailer. when pulling trailer in overdrive and excelorating the engone will cough several times. I took it to a mechanic and he told me that there was nothing he could do that I needed a new engine. I can pull trailer out of overdrive with no problem. don't undrstand why I need new engine....
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I have a Lariat 4x4 supercrew cab with a CD 6 disc changer head unit. Error message. No Disc, and Load Error. Will not eject any of the 6 loaded CDs. Pulled/reset fuse. No luck. Banged on dash while trying to eject any of the loaded CDs.. no luck. Unit cycles when first starting the engine. Radio works fine. Unit locked up....Ford Mx tech says the solenoid that holds the CD is frozen in position and will not release.
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Hard to describe sound, but it only happens under load. It happens at any speed, but more predominently at higher speeds. When I lift off the gas it stops. I can keep it going up hill since I'm maintaining speed rather than accelerating over the limit. The other day I heard another F150 beside me making the same noise going up a hill.
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I have a 04 5.4 w/ a whipple supercharger. truck has 104k miles. Has a misfire in cyl 4 (p0304, p0316) And spark knock.. I've changed the plugs, coil on cyl 4, fuel filter, and today the o2 sensor(pass side upper, bank 2??). I've ran tecron injector cleaner threw it, and always used Chevron 90 octane. (highest in Alaska)
The noise only happens when under load, or accelerating with more then half the throttle. doesn't happen when i slowly get up to speed. What I could do next? About to take it to the dealer to run a full diagnostic test on it.. Also, does not hesitate or bog. drives normal just with that noise
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I am having overheating problems at high speed/high rpm/under load. The only codes ive gotten are EGR dpfe (0401). Truck is 99 f250 with the 6.8 new egr valve, dpfe, new coolant, new thermo, new sensor under manifold. I blew 90 lbs air pressure thru the egr lines, big and small, they were clear.
So whats left? I never hear my fan clutch......should I? I've had other trucks and the fan roared when first started for a few seconds, and then again when you were hot...they really roared.
Is it possible for the egr port where it goes into the throttle body to be plugged? guess I should've checked that when I had the egr off. Would an aux. fan be a waste of time?
This is pulling a 3500 lb camper trailer up moderate hills.
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