Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: No Brakes After Caliper / Brake Pad Change
Sep 20, 2015
After a routine brake pad replacement the brake pedal hits the floor when applied with normal force. The pedal feels like a badly leaking master cylinder, but prior to the pad replacement the brake pedal was firm as a rock with no drop at all. If I pump the brakes the pedal will come up to normal height, but if I then maintain light pressure the pedal will again sink to the floor.
1. Truck was braking fine, however pad 3/4 worn
2. Replaced front calipers, rotors and pads
3. Replaced front brake feed hoses
4. Replaced rear pads
5. Started engine
6. Started bleeding from furthest point from MC a) passenger rear, b) Driver Rear, c) passenger front, d)driver front. Did it two times...
Still, brake travels all the way to the fire wall and never develops tension. Moreover, sometimes, when person pumping brake puts pressure and i open bleed, no fluid comes out. Could it be a failed master cylinder??? I tend to think it's not because 24hrs ago, the pedal felt fine and the truck was braking ok.... So much for preventive maintenance.
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I pulled a brake caliper off for inspection, and when I reinstalled it, I managed to strip one of the holes on the caliper bracket when putting one of the 7mm bolts back in - haste makes waste, ya? So, I am trying to find out my options, is it possible to get it re-threaded, helicoiled, or is it toast and I need to buy a new one?
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I have a '79 F150 4wd and was wondering what would indicate a caliper needing replacement. I'm already going to replace everything on my rear brakes, they are completely trashed. However, the fronts seem OK, NO indications of leaks or seizing both sides of the rotors appear to be evenly "used" I guess. The inner pads do seem to be thicker than the outer pads is this normal? Anything I should be specifically looking for before I have the rotors turned and put a new set of pads on?
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Had a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
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I started to feel the brakes get spongy. So I pulled the master cylinder forward and turned the 7mm about a half turn. Also noticed the brake fluid level low. I topped it off. Drove down a steep hill....red dash brake light comes on.....plow truck stopped at the base of hill with on coming car. Used emergency brake.
The down side is that I don't have a dry area to pump and check where the leak is. The up side is I have a 2nd car to drive (yaris).....the truck only has 45k miles on it. Where is that area that is prone to leakage on these trucks....... 2004 heritage 4.2 v6 with stick shift.... only 45k miles ....
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The last two days after driving home i noticed a smell upon exiting the truck. today i figured out what it was, the left front wheel was smoking. i.e. i believe the brake is dragging. the weird thing is going to work no issue, coming home issue. big difference is yesterday coming home was about 90, today 95. in the morning yesterday it was 60 today 74.
Is it possible the hot temp is causing some kind of an issue? it just started getting hot here and this had never happened before.
Truck is an 05 4X4 Lariat SuperCab with 70K. did brakes ( rotors with angled coolng fins up front ) and pads at around 40K. i just rotated teh tires about 1500 mile ago and there was plenty of pad, inner and outer.
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Started to change front pads and rotors on my GX470, but couldn't get the caliper bolts loose. Is it safe to use a torch to heat up the area around the bolts so I can loosen the bolts? Any other way to break these bolts free?
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I need to do a brake job on the front of my 04 Elantra, how to reset the caliper piston. I've tried the traditional c-clamp method but can't get the clamp to grip well on the non-pad side because of the caliper shape.
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I have a 2007 Prius gen II with 50,000 miles on it. I took it for MOT ministry of transport annual test and it failed on rear brakes. The near side puled 82kg the off side puled 242kg I puled the pads and copper slipped the pads and sliders the piston pushed bake with ease reassembled them and re tested them witch increased the near side by 5kg. How did you rectify it.
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My 2004 Toyota Highlander with 84K miles has been diagnosed with a seized front driver side brake caliper with worn brake pad (1/32). I had recall work done a few days ago at the dealership and this was discovered afterward during the "complimentary" multi-point check-up. - You know, the long laundry list of recommended work they try to sell you on. Of course the brake work is actually necessary.
Since the vehicle was just inspected 2 months ago at our local shop, my husband suggested I take it back there to verify the diagnosis and see what that mechanic would recommend. That mechanic confirmed and showed me the seized caliper/worn pad, which, by the way, was functioning well in mid January at inspection, and measured 7/32. This mechanic recommends replacing both calipers, pads, turning rotors. There was no indication of a problem with the RF caliper, but he says it's just a good idea to replace it so we would avoid having another problem in the future.
I want to ask everyone's opinion regarding replacement of just the bad caliper vs. both. Are we getting ripped off as far as the estimate and is the flush necessary? Also, is this issue typical in the first place, and what causes a brake caliper to seize? We've had several other vehicles driven many more miles than my Highlander and never experienced a seized caliper.
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It may sound silly, but can I lift my 04 explorer by the rear differential to change brakes etc? I have NOT had a Independant suspension vehicle prior to this and dont want to mess up anything. If I cannot use that point to lift it, where is a point to lift it using a floor jack so I can service the rear of the vehicle after I place it on jack stands?
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2001 Explorer sport trac. I had a shop install new front pads because I couldn't brake the caliper bolts loose. I noticed they didn't use any grease on the pads from what I can see, and there has been a quiet rubbing/squeaking sound coming from the wheels (mainly when pressing the brakes). I assume it's the brake pads/caliper parts that still need to be greased. I have the right kind of grease and I'm about to do it, but what parts of the pads/caliper assembly need to be greased?
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I have a 1999 F350 single rear wheel Superduty truck that will not allow the right rear caliper to fully release. I replaced the caliper/mounting hardware/pads/rotor. The problem continued so I replaced the rubber hose to the caliper. Problem continues. I'm thinking possibly the center rubber brake line at the differential (where it splits and goes right/left) but at this point I am guessing. Maybe proportionate valve but I know nothing about them.
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Bought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
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My driver side caliper will not bleed fluid, is it safe to say that the caliper needs replacing.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles
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I have a 2004 SCREW with the 5.4 Triton, I religiously change my oil at 3000 mile intervals, constantly checking level between changes. Motorcraft 5w-20 , 7 quarts with Motorcraft filter, my level is always full and I never add between changes. When I change the oil I always put the waste oil back into the new oil containers. So, here is the question... why do I only get 5 quarts of old oil out of the engine? I have had the truck for 5 years, no issues other than what we all experience....... I have asked around different places and got the deer in the headlights look every time.
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I just bought a 2005 5.4L F-150 and need to do an oil change. The manual calls for an FL-820S Motorcraft filter. I bought one and it doesn't match up. The filter that is currently on the truck is smaller in diameter and a little longer. There's no numbers or manufacturer on it. What's up? What filter do I need?
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I have an 04 F150 5.4 w/67k. Just changed the OE plugs. While I had it in the garage also cleaned the K&N air filter. Truck runs great but I lost about 3 MPG. I was getting 16 all around and am now getting about 13 under the same conditions. I bought a Purolator air filter and switched it with the K&N but there had been no difference. I used Champion plugs as the replacements. Truck ran great before and runs great now.
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Okay I have a 2006 F-150 5.4 60,000 miles , Never once had any problems. I have always done the oil changes myself using 5w-20 mobile super and an S2 STP oil filter. Today, I did a normal oil change and once i filled it up I checked the oil it one last time and I topped it off just right according to the dipstick. And I also checked it after letting engine idle for 5 minutes. I changed the fuel filter also ( first time doing) but no leaks. I drove about two miles down the road, turned around and when I put it into reverse it idled really rough. It almost sounded like a thrown rod.
The rpm's dropped to about 500. I put it into drive and gave it a little gas and then all was fine. Engine ran perfect. I reversed it at least 5 more times and it did it every time but always recovering when given a little gas. I also noticed that there is some oil splashed on the undercarriage like it was leaking going down the road. I checked the filter gasket and it was fine and intact. It idles great in park, drives great. Just reverse it dives down and vibrates like crazy.? After getting home I noticed that the oil level on the dipstick is a little less than a 1/4 inch over the correct level.
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I have a 2006 Fx4 with 60,000 miles. I wanted to change the spark plugs myself yet I can't seem to find were they are in the engine, I know how to take them out but I don't know how to get to them.
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I am a newbie here, and also a new owner of a 2006 F150 XLT 4X4 with the 5.4 engine. It has 68K miles on it and looks to have been well cared for. I have a couple questions. First the truck is runnig great, no problems. I have read the threads regarding the spark plug issues and was looking for an opinion about changing them. Should I wait until I have problems, or due to the age of the truck, should I go ahead and attempt it soon? Also, I would like to find a used cap for the bed. I have the 6.5 bed, and wondered what range of years would work with my truck.
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