Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: New Plug / COP - Truck Stills Sputters Around 45 - 55 MPH
Apr 17, 2016
I was getting a misfire in #4 cyl. Couldn't afford to change all my plugs, so I replaced the one that was missing. Two weeks went by, truck ran fine, then it started missing really hard (same cyl #4). Thought my COP was bad, so replaced that and the boot.
Drove my truck to work last night, seemed to run fine, but this morning, it started to sputter again around 45-55. Plug in my OBD2 and it wasn't throwing any codes, seemed to idle just fine.
When I got home I put it park and revved the engine a little bit. Got it around 2500 rpm and it sounded like I have a air leak in a way. What do at this point. It is a 2007 F150 5.4 triton with 104xxx on it.
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I got my truck to throw some codes. As many of you know I have been having an issue where when I stomp my truck to the floor it sputters and hesitates. Some days its worse then others. It only happens under a load, and it generally doesn't last to long, however today it did it a whole bunch and lasted for a good bit any time I got on it hard. My engine light begin to flash, and there was a smell of exhaust. I went to Autozone quickly as possible. The guy read the code, and this time no lean codes, just a "P0430" which the code reader said was O2 Sensor Bank 2. It also had a pending code, which was "multiple cylinder misfire detected". So my question is can an O2 sensor cause this? Could my CAT on that side be bad?
If that is all it is, is a bad cat or O2 sensor then I will be very happy... Like I said I can sit in my driveway in park all day long, and rev outta my truck. It will never misfire or hesitate at all. Soon is I put it in gear and am going down the road and punch it sometimes it pop and sputter.
Another cool thing is some how their code reader was able to read my ABS light, and I found out that this whole time I have had a bad ABS Speed Sensor in the rear end. That is a plus as well.
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Intermittent starting issue in these things? Seems to be getting more common for me this winter. Turn the key, it turns over, and then I let go of the key and she doesn't light. Then when I try again, it's like the engine is flooded. I have to give it gas to start, which I know is a no-no in fuel injected vehicles. Other than that, it's fine. No sputters, no hiccups, runs strong, good mpg, etc. But I'm getting annoyed....
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Strange condition? If I kick it down hard into passing gear (or downshift hard into any gear for that matter), it pukes and sputters for a few seconds before clearing up and coming to life. No issues with normal driving, or dead stop hard acceleration, just on the downshift.
I’ve got a Magnaflow cat back on there and am wondering if opening up the exhaust and reducing the back pressure is screwing with the ECU a little? Is this just the nature of the stock Ford tune and it wasn’t as pronounced with the stock exhaust as it is now? Trucks an '06 FX4 5.4L and only has 70,000km on it.
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I've recently replaced the timing chains on my sons 04 F-150 5.4. Now I'm getting a code PO174. I've changed 2 coil packs, fuel filter, MAF sensor and cleaned all the connections. Fuel filter had what looked like brown fuel coming out of the in line of the filter. I'm stressed out now, the truck does not even have enough power to drive up the driveway. Backfires, spits and sputters, has rough idle.
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I have had a 2005 f150 v6 5 speed for a little over two years. Got about 153k on it. Last night was sitting in a parking lot idling about 20-25 minutes, went to leave and she started sputtering hard, lost all power and died. Started back up, idled fine, as soon as i put it in gear same thing then the check engine light came on.
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My truck's been having an occasional hard start, meaning the engine cranks strong but it fails to catch and then sputters. The 2nd start attempt usually fires up with no issues and then runs perfectly otherwise.
MPG's haven't changed, fuel filter was changed 15K ago. Air filter is clean. Plugs were changed about 10K ago. I always use Shell/Chevron gas. MAF sensor looked clean when I took it out so I didn't do anything to it.
This is starting to happen more frequently, maybe once every few weeks and I get a feeling it's the start of something. I've found myself waiting a few seconds for the fuel pressure gauge to come up before turning the key to start reliably. In the past, I could simply flick the key and it fires up the first time.
I see posts talking about the fuel pump module above the spare tire. What are symptoms of that going bad? Any pending codes that might be stored?
I'm about to get myself a scanner since I need one sooner or later. Which specific PID's to check while debugging this?
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Truck spits and sputters when it starts up..and now it does it more often New spark plugs, new fuel pump and filter New mass air flow. I changed fuel octain and that work for a few weeks and back it spits...... It seems that when I put something new in the truck it runs great for a few weeks and then it starts up again...... I can not find a fuel regulator that fits the one that is on the truck now......so I have not replaced it........
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Had a spark plug sleeve come out, the part with the hex head to turn the whole thing. Wonder if JB Weld put on the inside of this sleeve and placed back over the plug will hold enough to turn the plug and get it out after some more pb blaster?
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I have an 04 F150 5.4 w/67k. Just changed the OE plugs. While I had it in the garage also cleaned the K&N air filter. Truck runs great but I lost about 3 MPG. I was getting 16 all around and am now getting about 13 under the same conditions. I bought a Purolator air filter and switched it with the K&N but there had been no difference. I used Champion plugs as the replacements. Truck ran great before and runs great now.
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I have a 99 ford ranger xlt 4.0 ohv basically it sputters so bad while driving it sounds like a dump truck but it all started when I changed my o2 sensors but in doing so I broke my heater control valve and when I was going down the road it started sputtering well it started sputtering so I checked the o2 sensors there good and I changed the heater control valve. But nothing so I changed my coil pack spark plugs and wires but still nothing. But on my reader it says cylinders 2,3, and 4 are misfiring and bank 1 and 2 are running lean plus it has a bad aroma of gas in the engine compartment but when it idles its somewhat smooth but when I'm driving it its horrible the sputtering is so bad it takes awhile to get up to speed plus I'm only getting 100 miles to a whole tank that's like 8 or 9 mpg I need to fix this soon. This is my only transportation...
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Have 146k on an 05 SuperCrew, 4.6 V8, it's like my right arm! Don't know what I'd do without it. The other night, at interstate speed, something "popped" and the check engine light came on and it started missing. Left it at the mechanic's overnight, he swapped coil packs with no change, pulled the #6 plug and found it wet with antifreeze. No water in oil, no overheating, no other signs of head or gasket failure.......I'm tempted to put some stop-leak in it and change the plug.......
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I have a 2006 5.4L F150. I am encountering a misfire on the #3 plug. The only OBD error messages I receive are from misfire on #3, no other faults.
I have checked the plug, and it looks pretty good. I have recently changed all COPs. I have removed the injector rail and checked and cleaned all injectors. I have removed the wire connector from COPs and checked the voltage while the vehicle is running.
The #3 connector is measuring around 13.6V ... The other COP connectors I measure 0.17V to 0.4V ....
It appears this low volt reading is due to the neg signal wire closing and opening. I brought it in to a mechanic and he indicated the computer needs to be replaced, no signal was getting to COP. So this appears where I am at.
I have hence gotten a LED test light and verified the other COP connector wires cause the test light to flash, while the #3 COP wire connection to just stay on all the time, no blink signal. What the problem is?
The engine sounds pretty good, maybe a slight tick sound. But the misfire wobble is apparent. I figure I will change the computer at this point, since it appears this is where the issue is.
What else could interfere with the COP neg signal? It is pretty clean in the engine compartment, and no visible problems with the wires fraying on the accumulator, as I have read reports happening.
Is it the cam that makes this negative signal wire open and close?
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I just picked up a 05 F150 lariat 5.4 2wd with a 177k on it. What the chances of these plugs coming out with out breaking? Any tips tricks to getting them out? Should I put motorcraft plugs back in it ?
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I have a 2006 Fx4 with 60,000 miles. I wanted to change the spark plugs myself yet I can't seem to find were they are in the engine, I know how to take them out but I don't know how to get to them.
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I own a v10 and am getting ready to assist a buddy out with his 05 5.4l. He wants me to change the spark plugs out. I have changed the spark plugs on my 04 v10. I think this is the year for went to the 2 piece spark plugs. Also what torq setting should I torq them to? Should I also use anti seize with them or no? Does the gap need to be set on the plugs? I dont have a book to go buy.
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I just changed the plugs in my 05 stx 4x4 4.6L. Truck was running fine, never a problem but it has 105k so I figured id change them. #4 was the only one that gave me a little problem (besides being so tight). The coil and spring pulled off the boot, and I had to get a pair of pliers and get the boot off the plug.
I simply slid the spring back through the boot and replaced it once I had changed the plug. Other than that they all came out easily. I replaced with motorcraft plugs, and #5 did have what looked like some oil down on the threads when I pulled it out, but not sure if that's a big deal or not
Any way, I am torn between ordering new boots and changing them out, or just biting the bullet and getting 8 new coils with new boots attached. Truck runs fine, but does the usual buck/jerk under a load in overdrive now (never once did it before)...
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2007 F-150 Screw 5.4... Successful spark plug change. Well, sort of. I disconnected some of the coil clips/wires from the coils during the operation. Upon installation of the wires/clips, one of the clips did not 'click' into place.
Thinking the clip needed to be pushed/pulled, I bent the clip a bit and it snapped off! Being the slow learner that I am, a second clip also did not 'click' in place, and you know where this is going: I have two broken clips out of 8. After those two, I was much more gentle.
So, can these clips be replaced and/or spliced in? I'm thinking about just using nylon ties to hold them in place. So far, they are staying put just by being pushed in place, but these two do not seem very secure.
In the future, what is the correct way to make sure these things 'snap' back into place if they seem to not want to cooperate?
Here's a picture of the two 'press clips' that broke off....
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In the "Old days" I could pull the one-and-only coil wire and trigger the starter motor to rotate the converter so the plug was at the bottom. How do ya do this with COP engines so the engine does not start?
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I changed out my plugs. The plug connector on the #3 coil no longer snaps on. My only option is to use a small ziptie to hold it in place. Can cut it off and wired a new plug end on..
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I just completed a successful second spark plug change, using Motorcraft SP515 plugs just like last time. After reconnecting battery and starting engine, it ran poorly throughout a short road test. Felt like it was skipping. Checked under the hood and found that the #2 fuel injector was disconnected, so I reconnected the injector.
I took another short road trip and it still ran poorly as if skipping. So, this time I disconnected the battery for several minutes while removing the #2 plug thinking I may possibly have fouled the plug by the injector not being connected. I also checked all of the other injector and coil connections. Reconnected battery and took another short trip. It still runs poorly. No codes yet.
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