Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: New Battery And Alternator / Passenger Airbag And Warning Lights On - Gauges Erratic?
Feb 6, 2014
The battery light came on in my '04 F150 a couple of days ago. Terminals were in need of cleaning, so I took care of that. The next day after driving 50 miles to and from work, the battery light came on again, along with the ABS & Brake light started flashing. After shutting the truck off, it would not start.
Three days later, I have now installed a brand new alternator and battery, only to have the same symptoms pop up about one minute after start up. The warning lights are now accompanied by the passenger airbag light and all engine instruments needle sweep back and forth. Dash lights go dim and bright intermittently as RPM varies.
Do I need old fault codes cleared or is this a PCM issue?
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I got my Alternator replaced last week. Last night, I hit a very small bump, not even large enough to really cause me to slow down, and as soon as I did, my battery and brake lights came on. My RPM gauge also jumped around and eventually went to 0 until I stopped and put the car in park. (The bump might just be a coincidence who knows). So after all this happened, I turned off my car, tried to restart and got nothing. Sometimes I get a click, sometimes 2 clicks up to 4-6 consecutive clicks. Every few times I won't even get a click, just a slight attempt to start, then the car dies, then 2 seconds later all my lights and radio etc. come back on. My problem here is a few things:
1. I've been told it could be the starter. If it's the start, those dashboard lights shouldn't have came on right? just the STARTING portion of the car.
2. I've been told it could be the battery.
Well If i got my alternator tested and Advance said it was working, Why would my battery be dead? And if it WAS dead, wouldn't my lights have went dim or something else happen to the car?
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I just replaced my battery and alternator this evening on my 2004 F-150 5.4L. After driving it around a bit, the idle is dropping to about 100 RPM almost to a point of stalling when coming to stop. It slowly creeps back up to a normal idle shortly after.
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Last night battery light came on. Drove 40 miles home with lights on. Today, it started so I headed out. About 10 miles of battery light on, gauge fluctuating mildly either side of middle, gauge suddenly drops dramatically. I turn around and head back. After a mile or so there's a terrible growling under the hood, sounded like it could be an alternator bearing. Just as I pull over, the noise stops but entire dash goes black. Popped hood, alternator spinning quietly and not hot. I drove back and it started stumbling and surging as the battery died and it finally quit almost all the way back.
I have battery on charger now. I assume the BCM is the regulator by feeding current back to the field? If so could the growling be the BCM feeding back a huge field and the rectifier bridge growing? And the BCM fuse blew because too much current to alternator field coils? Will it start with a charged battery with the BCM dead? I need it to run to get to the parts place. Which fuses do I need to check? Then, how do I check the alternator, wiring, BCM regulator to find original problem?
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I've had my 2004 F150 for almost 2 years now. For almost the last year my airbag light has been on. No codes, just the airbag light on the dash being on and occasionally the light on the console turns on.
Are there sensors that may go bad? I've looked and everything under the passenger seat is connected. Going to be upgrading the truck soon, just need to take care of all the little things first.
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My airbag warning light is flashing 3 , and 4 which i assume is a 34. What this means? I have a 2006 Ford F150...
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2007 F-150 reg cab 4x4 One thing after another.Light in the middle of the dash says "passenger side airbag off". Never used to be on?
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Driving home my radio quit working. I looked at the gauges and they all dropped to the left. The it looked like my lights quit working and then the truck just quit. All of this happened within 5 miles and 10 minutes. I jumped it and quit before I could even get going, it did start momentarily. Could not even get the gear shift into neutral; had to jump it to get that to happen.
It is 2006 F150 4x4, 5.4L engine and about 95,000 miles.
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My case involves a 2005 Prius with 55k miles on it with the problem of the master warning light (triangle with !), yellow brake light ( (!) ), airbag, and VSC lights coming on whilst driving. The car drives just perfectly fine without any discernible problems. Scan tool did not detect any codes. Tested the 12v auxiliary battery and it is strong with both voltage and amperage (even went as far as temporarily jury-rigging a fresh v12 battery in parallel with it to see if it would alleviate the problem). Inverter coolant pump runs well, coolant changed with appropriate Toyota Super Long Life coolant (50/50 mix) and system bled. Despite some drivers' concerns over disconnecting the 12v battery to reset the lights, this was done and the lights would go out, only to have them come on again after about 5-10 minutes of driving. Asides from the lights coming up, the car itself seems to be asymptomatic. Hybrid system appears to be running smooth and fine, SOC is good, asides from the lights the car drives very well.
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I bought this prius and it runs and drives great, no issues until a couple weeks into ownership and the car refused to "ready" up. i figured out real quick it was the 12v battery....BUT instead of replacing it i was trying to be cheap and charged it to verify for sure, worked great for about a week until it wouldn't start the car again and gave me the "park on level ground" warning. i got passed it after a few presses of the start button but the master warning, VSC, Brake (!), and airbag lights came on. I replaced the 12v promptly and this did not remove the lights. 2 weeks later the lights are still there and I have tried resetting the brake/airbag lights via pins 4 and 13 and failed at getting the lights to go out. a scan tool will delete them for about 10 seconds.
The codes I was able to pull via blink were:
(!) 11
ABS 42
VSC 51 45
airbag 23
I cleared them with the "press brakes 8 times" method, lights remain and codes pop up
VSC 51
airbag 55 57 23
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2014 4x4 5.0 ... Drove my new truck (less than 1900 miles) to work in the rain. Alternator failed and battery warning on dash. Took truck to dealer, they confirmed and said not covered by warranty. Talked to ford, they back up dealers decision. They want a whole bunch of money to replace alternator and clean under the hood. What good is a 4x4 if it fails driving to work on an open highway?
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Just got a new-to-me 2006 F350 Super Duty XL with the 5.4L V8 and 5-speed auto. I haven't had a full-size truck in a few years and forgot what I was missing!
When I bought the truck, all gauges were inoperative except for the fuel and oil pressure gauges. The previous owner told me they would work intermittently and at some point just stopped. The usual warning lights - ABS, CEL, and "the wrench" - were all lit, and from Googling and searching this forum, it looked like an easy fix - probably a pinched or frayed shifter wire, or possibly a cluster repair.
I took it home and did a self test on the gauges. The "sweep gauges" made everything swing fine, so I was thinking it might not be a problem in the cluster. I pulled the steering column apart, removed the Tow/Haul overdrive wire from the plastic retainer, re-ran it with some slack, taped the end where it comes out of the shifter (even though I saw no breaks/frays) cleaned the connections, gave it a dollop of dielectric grease in the connector, and put it all back together. VOILA - GAUGES and no warning lights! You can imagine the touchdown dance in the driveway.
Fast forward a few weeks and....back to no gauges and warning lights lit. Figuring the overdrive wire had finally given up, I ordered and installed a replacement shifter figuring it was an easy and cheap fix. No joy - same problem. Tried cleaning and reseating the connection. Nothing. I've searched FTE like mad and it seems like 95% of the problems are with the wire exiting the shifter fraying and/or blowing a fuse, but this is a new shifter. I've also checked fuses #2, #24, #33, #36, #41, and #45 (some referenced #19 but I don't have a fuse there). All were unbroken - just put them back in and reseated firmly. I did a code pull via OBD2 and have a "rear catalytic efficiency degraded" code...not sure if that's related, but figured I just had an exhaust issue.
I may take the dash cover off and try to clean and reset the connections on the gauge cluster, as well as do the same for the PCM. Is it possible that the tow/haul overdrive wire to the PCM (where the shifter connects to) is bad? How to test and/or replace if it comes up bad?
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Last night, my 2008 Prius was hit from the rear. The bumper was damaged as well as a few starches on the hatch. However the latch for the hatch was move forward so the hatch no longer latches. Also during the collision, my daughter's heavy backpack was throw against the back of the passenger seat with enough force to hurt her back.
The airbag warning light remains on along with the dash indicator saying the airbag is off. Does mean all the airbags are disabled? Can this be reset? The car will be professionally repaired but I still need to drive it until I can get it repaired.
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2005 Prius I picked up a few weeks ago decided to eat both of it's batteries for lunch and leave me high and dry. I replaced the aux battery yesterday which I was lucky to get at cost at the toyota dealer since the aux battery was original. Put it in and all was well with the car for the rest of the day. Got in it today and headed out and was welcomed with the big stupid "!" triangle, the regen brake warning, check engine light, "PROBLEM" written on the display with a picture of a "!" inside a car outline, and some severely reduced performance. So I looked online and found a place with a bunch of low mileage batteries out of smashed up 2009's.
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I have a 2007 Prius. We left for vacation for 2 weeks. Came home. Started the car and then all the lights came home. I thought the battery must have drained. But the lights are all on with a new battery. Is there a way to clear all these?
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I have a 98 Dodge Dakota with 5.2 V8. On the way home today all my gauges and warning lights started going on and off and then gauges stopped working all together and all the warning lights stayed on. The engine was running fine and after pulling over and checking things out, I made the last mile or so home OK. Checked fuses and battery connection and everything looked Ok. Relay or Computer?
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My 2007 Prius suddenly lost power and all lights on the dash board light up. I had a "problem" error as well. Eventually a message came up stating there was a transmission P lock mechanism problem.
Long story short, realized the 12volt was dead and replaced it. However, the car is still not running after replacing the battery. It went once around the block fine, and then the same thing happened with all the lights (check engine, VSC, brake system, and !) and P lock mechanism warning. Disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and tried again. No luck.
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A year and a half ago, I had the hybrid battery warning lights come on and had it towed to the dealer. After given the option of replacing the battery for $4300, I took it home and did a single cell replacement (all cells ~8V, one at 6.6V which I replaced), which seemed to be all good until yesterday. Back with the warning lights and blower fan, I jumped to the conclusion that I have a similar situation, removed the battery and all cells are 8.04V +/- .05V except for 1 cell at 7.92. I am not convinced that this cell is really the culprit.
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2006 Toyota Prius 93000 miles
On 3/8/13 my Prius would not start. I read some information online and came to the conclusion I needed a new battery.
I started the car, and it immediately started up. I drove it for a very short time and parked it in the garage.
Today I started the car and drove it for about 5 minutes to a restaurant. I did some shopping and about 3 hours later I started the car and A Big Red Triangle appeared along with a yellow circle with an exclamation point in the center and the check engine light.
I immediately drove it to the Toyota Dealer 5 blocks away.
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I had noticed a drop in MPG in the last month (more than normal this time of year), so I started searching on PC. That lead me to testing my 12V battery 4 days ago, with the following results:
No load: 11.8V
Load: 11.5V
Charge: 14.2V
Car started and ran fine, but since the battery is the original on my 2006 with just under 130,000 miles on it, I figured I'd get a new 12V the next time there was a good deal at Advance Auto. No other symptoms until today. After driving around 150 miles on Saturday, the car sat for 3-1/2 days in 25-40 degree temperatures. Started and ran fine today. Did a 5 mile trip, followed by a 1/2 mile trip, followed by a 5 mile trip home.
On the way home, the car lit up like a Christmas tree (appropriate for this time of year). Master warning light, brake system light (yellow; not red), check engine light, VSC light, hybrid system light (no ABS light). Turned it off and restarted and the VSC wasn't lit, but everything else still was.
More info... I finally got around to disabling the back-up beep, and the driver side seat belt warning yesterday, which may have run the 12V down even more.
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Well all the lights are on for mine as well as of 2 days ago... checked the 12v, was at 11.8v, tested under accessories load (without engine on) and went to 11.4v then tested with the car on and we're at 14.2v
So just to be safe I went ahead and got a NEW 12v and installed it yesterday. All the lights went away immediately. Drove 30 minutes to the town over after the install... fine.... it sat off for about 1 hour.... drove it back home another 30... perfectly fine.
This morning the wife takes it to work, starts the car, all the lights on again... turns it off completely, then turns it back on and all the lights are off and then drove it to work just fine.
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