Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Missing And Rough Idle After Changed The Spark Plugs
Jan 3, 2016
I changed my spark plugs now I got a miss and rough idle .#2 and 6 seem to be the ones that miss the idle don't change when I unplug the coil , I take coil off and put it next to the motor it sparks ! I put everything 3 plugs and got about 200 miles on them and 3 out of 8 had melt downs and left me on the side of the hwy. I got autolights in it now but it got a miss and rough idle ! Did I not do something right ?
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I have rough idle problem after changing spark plugs, fuel filter and battery. There was no rough idle problem before this work was done. What could be wrong. Once the speed is above 20 mph it seem to run fine but at stops it vibrates and seem like it may stall!
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Here's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
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I have a 2008 Camry, 2.4L, and used the spark plugs change DIY sticky and it seemed to go painlessly. However, after the new spark plugs, the car seems to idle rough. It has 95k miles, and I did the following in the same tune-up:
1. Changed Oil
2. Replaced Air Filter
3. Changed Spark Plugs
4. Cleaned Battery Terminals
5. Cleaned MAF Sensor
6. Cleaned plugs connecting to ignition coils
I used OEM Toyota plugs, and even called the dealer to see if the gap needed to be set. And they affirmed me that the gap is preset on these plugs.
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Just got done changing the plugs on my new to me 2008 Prius. They were in there a little tight and the crunching noise they make at first is a little disconcerting, but I'm thinking it has something to do with the coating NGK puts on their plugs.
Anyway, everything went smooth and I took my time and used tips I read about here. I've worked on cars since I was 16 and have rebuilt motors and completely restored a 1956 Chevy, but this Prius is a different animal. I think in the end though we are going to be friends...
Here are some pics of the old plugs. The gaps were a little out of range, and there was some wear, but 148k on spark plugs and the car still runs good?
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I don't have a torque wrench. I just have a spark plug wrench. I changed my own spark plugs. I don't like taking them out and putting them back in. I'm not sure if I got the torque right. What should I do?
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I recently purchased my first Ford pickup. I bought a 2006 F-150 with the 5.4L 3V engine. I have only driven it for about 300 miles so far and am having problems. The engine has 146,000 miles on it. I have read several posts on here about the cam phasers which I believe that I may have some issues with. The engine will run well when cold, on the road, etc. The engine does have a slight ticking after it warms up (cam phasers?). When I come to a stop after the engine is operating temperature, the engine will start to miss and shudder and all 4 above codes come active and are also pending (8 codes in total).
All 4 codes are logged at the same time. I have replaced both cam position sensors, both sensor ends and terminals for cam position sensors, checked wiring around the rear of engine (does not appear to be rubbed through), all plugs were replaced, and all COP boots are good. Is there anything that can cause these codes that may not be the actual cam position sensors, ie. VTC, COPs, cam phasers? What pins the cam position sensors come on the ECU (so I can ohm the entire wire harness)?
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
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Sstripped threads using an impact to remove the plugs?
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My '07 had the check engine come in the other day, engine misfire. I took it to the dealer hoping it was a coil, due to the 100,000 mi warranty from Ford I was hoping would be covered. Sadly, and of course, all coils tested fine, turns out 2 plugs were bad. They replaced all 8 plugs, plus a plug boot. Not one plug broke (truck had 80k on it) so no extra cost there. So much more, but peace of mind that all the plugs are new one piece plugs is great. He recommended that they should be replaced every 60k to avoid any issues.
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I am a newbie here, and also a new owner of a 2006 F150 XLT 4X4 with the 5.4 engine. It has 68K miles on it and looks to have been well cared for. I have a couple questions. First the truck is runnig great, no problems. I have read the threads regarding the spark plug issues and was looking for an opinion about changing them. Should I wait until I have problems, or due to the age of the truck, should I go ahead and attempt it soon? Also, I would like to find a used cap for the bed. I have the 6.5 bed, and wondered what range of years would work with my truck.
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As far as I know, my Passat has never had any other spark plugs other than OEM. I could also swear that those OEM plugs always had 3 grounds. My gas mileage historically averages about 27MPG in a mixed city/highway environment.
Recently, my spark plugs were replaced and now my gas mileage has dropped to 24MPG. I had a similar problem once with my previous car (1998 Jetta GLI) and it was due to going from a three ground spark plug to a single ground plug. Putting in three ground spark plugs instantly restored the gas mileage to previous levels.
I've read repeatedly that the NKG PFR6Q is the OEM plug but it only has a single ground. I realize that my memory could be faulty, but this is driving me nuts.
Alas I can't be sure what was there before versus what's there now, but I know my previous mechanic was a stickler for OEM parts. Would switching from a multi-ground to a single-ground cause a 10%+ drop in mileage?
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2004 5.4L ... Codes indicate a firing issue on #4 cylinder, figure it's the coil pack. They bought truck used a few years ago and plugs have not been changed since they have owned it. I was going to change plugs while I was under the hood. While checking threads on this engine I picked up on plugs being a major job unless you know the tricks. So what tricks do y'all have up your sleeve to keep from breaking plugs?
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I've recently had a small issue with my truck missing under hard load. If you're going around 40 MPH and push it down like merging it will kick back and forth and sputter and then start hitting fine again after a few seconds and move on. Possibly bad sparkplugs and/or wires?
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I have with my F150 5.4 liter truck. I had the spark plugs replaced about 1 year ago. since then I have had 2 plugs back out and come loose. I would smell a faint gas smell first that would tell me know that it was happening. the first plug was if memory is correct either number 8 0r 7 on bank 2. this time its number 2 on bank 1.
I hope that my mechanic just did not torque the plugs correctly and all I have to do is tighten them. If that's not it. Could the spark plug holes be stripped and have to be re-threaded? And if so how us that done?
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I have an 1999 f150 4.2l only 82,000 original miles.i have had truck since new .i just replaced the spark plugs for the first time.i used autolite plat. I also changed fuel filter the truck started to run like crap now shaking and sorta like missing.i pulled the plugs again rechecked the gp reinstalled them installed new wires still runs like crap.went out bought new motorcraft plat. plugs gapped at .054 still runs like crap..so i checked the gap on original plus that have been i the truck since new the gap on them are .074-.075. should i try and gapp the new ones to this the truck ran like a dream with the original plugs at this gap????
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I have a weird intermittent problem. Sometimes when I start my explorer it will idle down and die immediately, I restart and it will idle about 400-600 really rough, sounds like it is missing. When I drive it it is jerky and the acceleration is sluggish but after I get it up to about 20 mph it clears out and then drives and idles fine until I shut it down. Plus these things only happen about every third time (on average) that I drive it. Lastly it's not giving me any codes. What this could be?
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Truck (04 excursion, 2WD, early build 6.0, 160k) started missing and rough idle on way home from work after sitting all day in rain - parked. started fine in morning and drove to work with no trouble - it was raining over night too.
To get you up to speed. for a few weeks before had intermittent trouble starting. would fire up as normal, fast and loud, but then stall immediately (usually after sitting overnight). would start back up but with a little long on the key and some gas pedal action. only happen one out of ten or twenty starts and seemed to follow getting fuel in unknown locations while on a trip out of town. decided to change out fuel filters and drain separator. seemed to fix it for a week or so then it happened again two days before above event, while weather was dry. Not sure if related but only recent problem to speak of.
Back to current:
- no check engine light or codes (I have a scanner)
- stalled out close enough to home the night in question I rolled it into driveway and tried to start it while rolling in neutral - no start
- once parked in driveway also no start
- next evening wanted to get it into garage (to dry off) and it started but rough idle and missing. this was after 24 more hours sitting in rain.
- been in garage 24 more hours and this evening got it to run but same result (rough idle and hard start). tried to check connections (mainly FICM) and move wire loom around - still same.......
Where to check next, need some diagnostic...
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Motor seems to burn out spark plugs every month. I was using non volvo sparks. I took car to Volvo dealers and repairers who gave car a diagnostic check but nothing showed up. They told me to use Original Volvo Spark Plugs which I did. The Car went great with no problems for about 3 months thinking problem was fixed. Low and behold the same problem came back.
I changed spark plugs again (original Volvo) and car only ran for 10 ks and then ran very very rough with no power. Motor felt like it was running on a few cylinders. It seem this problem happens mostly in hot weather. Motor also heats up but when cooled down runs well again. I intend to buy new rotor Bosch and Distributer cap and if needed coil.
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Nissan altima gle (2000) and for the past 3 weeks it has not gone over 55. The car was running ok before but was idling rough. A mechanic replaced the intake manifold gasket, the MAF sensor and the fan sensor. I decided to change my spark plugs when I noticed the idling was getting worse. The spark plugs had oil on them and now a month after the new ones are burned (like ashy tip, black thread) and dripping oil again. I think is the oil not letting my car accelerate in the highway. I considered changing the valve gasket, cables and cap for the spark plug. A mechanic told me not to bother because the motor is a lost. Is he right?
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My 06 f150 5.4 3v has developed this miss in the last 1000 miles which is very annoying and fuel consuming. Its most noticeable at idle where the engine quivers and at highway rpms where it will start to vibrate when being slightly worked. I have already changed the cops and plugs, and there are no codes coming up.
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2004, 4L, sohc - Is there any issues or problems changing spark plugs?
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