Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Misfire Codes / Engine Shuddering Under Acceleration When Cold
Jan 27, 2017
My new to me 04 4.6 shuddered and misfired really bad last week, got couple misfire codes. I changed plugs which were really bad, like burnt out to .080, got a HEI ignition tester and got a healthy spark from all the coil packs. Drove it today and ran much better but still would shudder under acceleration when cold, wasn't as bad when warmed up but still noticeable. I thought if I got a spark with the tester that means the coil is ok? or is that not the last word in coil health. Or should I look somewhere else like injectors ? Haven't got any codes since plug change.
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
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My boss drives an '08 F-150 with a 5.4. The other week he had a horrid shuddering issue, misfire, and some known transmission issues so he took it to a shop. Supposedly the heads were pulled, heli-coiled, #7 coil was replaced, new plugs, trans rebuilt...a whole laundry list of stuff was done. He comes to me with complaints of a shudder in OD in low RPM primarily and a flashing check engine light with a #7 misfire code. I popped the hood to find no coil had been replaced (mechanics around here are REAL sketchy) so I told him to change up a new coil and I would throw it on to see if that fixes the issue.
Other than that, smooth idle and decent power with no shuddering except once in a while just coming into OD in low RPM...so around 40~ish and not throttling it hard. If he gets into it and blasts through the gears it has no shudder. I said the miss could be the whole issue, starting with the plugs and known misfire coil (#7) would be a good place to start.
A quick inspection in ~10 degree snow showed me the heads do not look like they were removed. The mechanic steam cleaned the engine, so looking for smudgy prints won't work. I know on older Fords the head gaskets stick out a little past the heads...do they on these too? He is questioning if the engine was even touched, and rightfully so in my opinion. Pulling the plugs would be the next step, but I need heat and tools for that.
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I have a 2005 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 it was studdering on the highway under light load, i changed the plugs and coils it worked great for a day now working worse and giving a misfire #7, so i swapped the injectors around still misfire #7.
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Over the past few months I've noticed that my truck has a very intermittent shudder under mild acceleration. If I accelerated more during the shudder it seemed to disappear until I let off the peddle a little. When it happens the truck doesn't seem to be lacking power and the engine throws no codes. It happened again today right as I had stopped at a red light. I noticed that it was shuddering at idle too. I shut the truck off at the intersection and the shudder was gone once restarted. What it may be?
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So, my 2004 with its constant tick is now "Missing", but only under moderate acceleration, between 1k and 2k rpms. i.e., : When in OD and wanting to gain a few MPH, but not drop down a gear. I have noticed it in OD and in 3rd. Feels like the engine stops for a split second, several times.
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I have a 2005 F-150 W/ 5.4 triton, and am having multiple codes. They are:
P0172- System to rich(Bank 1),
P0174- System to lean(Bank 2),
P0300- Random misfire,
P0303- Cylinder # 3 misfire detected,
P0304- Cylinder #4 msfire detected.
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I have a 2006 Lincoln Mark LT that seems to have an intermittent misfire. The truck is not throwing any codes either.
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2006 ford f150... Mine started out as a misfire problem which I first changed the plugs. I followed the Ford TSB and got all 8 plugs out with no problems. Still misfiring and setting a code for bank 1 catalytic converter inefficiency bank 1. By the way bank 1 is passenger side. After changing bank 2 because the guy at Advance auto said bank 1 was drivers side. Still setting misfire codes and for bank 1 cat. ineff.
So after installing new coil packs and 2 injectors, Still misfiring #3 and #1 and cat. ineff. bank 1. Decided to buy my own code reader, which is a must if you are going to try to work on these new vehicles. Decided to unplug o2 sensor to see where bank 1 really was. Thats when I found out bank 1 was indeed passengers side. Changed o2 sensors. Still misfiring. Decided to buy the true bank 1 cat converter.
Dropped old bank 1 cat and found all of the internal workings all broke up and clogging converter. Truck runs like new. I spent 178.00 for bank 1 converter at pep boys. After spending O approx. 600 in other parts that didnt fix it. I think the spark plugs not being changed until 115000 miles caused the converter to go bad. Buy a code reader and it makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose your problem yourself. and save a whole lot of money throwing new parts at it.
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I am perfectly capable of doing the repairs just short on time. the only shop in town is booked out 2 weeks, i need my truck sooner. 2006 f150 5.4v 3v 168k. I bought it with 150k and it was clean and ford maintained from the original owner. for a while it has been fluttering from time to time during acceleration. last week it started shuttering and missing around 45 trying to accel. no cel. I've read and actually fixed my freinds 08 but replacing cop and plugs. I bought motorcraft plugs and granatelli coils. friday morning it didn't want to start, cranked for a bit then locked up, as if hydrolocked.
I let it sit 5 minutes then cranked again and it fired but hesitating and missing like never before. anything passed 3k rpm it ran good no load. i had to drive it and it doesnt want to shift properly, revving way past normal shift points. smoking alot more than normal. hard to tell being 5 degrees out. finally got some codes. bank 2 sensor 1 stuck rich 4 times lean twice. Saturday i changed the oil plugs. and coils plugs were not original but were worn enough to visually see. all of the passenger plugs were a nice brown color. all of the driver side were jet black of carbon which follows the o2 cel. i reset it with my glorifed code buddy and it took a while if at all to come back. so im thinking not an o2 sensor????
It runs rough and will stall from time to time, I am to the point where i wont drive it. i will be replacing the camshaft sensors and vct solenoids tonight, and that one 2 if i have time. from what I've read phazers will cause a rough idle but once under load at least have some performance. when i accel it the rpms stall out before a shift i cant get anymore power, say wont got over 3200rpm. when chains and guides need to be replaced whats the symptoms??
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I do not know the 5.4l 3v as well as my last 360ci dodge. It's a 2005 F-150 SuperCrew 4x4, got it cheap, and it's got issues. Got codes for misfire on cylinders 4 and 5 and Coil 'D' circuit malfunction. Obviously it has codes for limited power as well. was wondering how cylinder numbering goes and what coil is 'D'.
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My wife was driving her truck yesterday and said the MIL light started to flash and the truck felt like "it was about to blow up" . So when I got home I busted out the trusty old scanner and this is what I got:
P0305- Cyl 5 misfire'
P0354- Ignition coil D primary/ Secondary circuit malfunction
P0304- Cylinder 4 misfire
The truck is a 2005 5.4 with ~130,000 on it and it runs very well for the most part. I have done the spark plugs before the summer and replaced them with the motorcrasft sp-515s. I am guessing the problem will be with the #4&5 coil packs. is there a way to troubleshoot these?
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At 89,000 miles I replaced my plugs with autzone autolites and also replaced my fuel filter. Shortly there after the truck started to shutter and shake while miss firing giving a 0307 code. After checking that plug and replacing it, moving the COPs across the engine from each other the miss firing continued under the 0307 code. The miss firing mostly occurred when I was around 50 MPH, under slight strain with a little acceleration. If I powered through it most of the time it would clear out. Occasionally it was bad enough to where I had to pull over.
I trouble shot this for about a month before it got more consistent and worse. I took it to the shop where they tested the compression on the cylinder and also tested each coil. All check out OK. They recommended I replace all plugs with motorcrafts and the boots on the coils. In the process of doing that I discovered a loose plug in the #2 cylinder. I pulled it out and found that it was scorched and the metal was slightly tweaked at the tip. Not sure how it got loose or how it got burned, but figured that I found the problem. All plugs and boots replaced!
Two days later more miss firing. This time with a 0305 code. Occurs again on a grade at around 50 MPH with slight acceleration. I pulled that plug and the plug in the cylinder where the loose plug was found. Nothing seemed to be wrong. The plugs seemed a little brown where I put anti seize on but that I figured was normal. I then moved coils again. The miss fire continued and the code did not move. There is still a rough idle and occasional humming coming from the engine.
Is the loose burnt plug a separate issue or is there something causing all the miss fires that backed my plug out. I'm lost on my next step to take. Im getting married in two weeks so needless to say spending more and more money on this issue let alone time is making things so stressful. Besides the fact that I think my engine going to blow up on me every time it miss fires bad.
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5.4 3v. my last few weeks have not made me a fan. Here are the details:
I bought a 2008 F150 XL 5.4 3v with a cam phaser knock. Have done other timing jobs in past with no trouble so I was not too afraid to tackle this one. famous last words...opened the motor (shout out to the passenger side valve cover and its designer here) and found semi damaged roller follower on driver side. Worn cam lobe on the corresponding lobe and a loose chain on passenger side. proceeded to :
Change all timing components: phasers, chains, tensioners crank sprocket, all applicable bolts and BOTH cams as well as all lash adjusters and roller followers. most looked fine in fact all really did with a bit of wear on a few roller followers but only one bad one. engine didn't look to bad pretty clean.
Double and triple checked my timing chains and it was spot on. dark link on spot on crank, two dark links on the L and R dead on. put it back together. oh yes, changed all plugs with motorcraft ones, didn't even break one. did not change vct solenoids because I falsely assumed I could change the later easily if needed. they looked ok. screens intact etc... silly me for not realizing how kind Ford was in 2007 and later to necessitate removal of valve cover. I was reading a previous one on the how tos and assumed later models would be the same since it was the same sensor...
Cranked truck ran great. I mean perfect. sounded perfect. ran like a scalded cat. till it got to hot idle then it started doing its thing. rattle shake till you revved it. ran fine just wouldn't hot idle fine especially in reverse or under slight load. replaced driver side vct since ford only had one and I started on the easy side ordered the other one waiting for it. seemed to improve dramatically meanwhile I am driving this truck to test it. I drove it to work 50 miles each way and it ran great.
After a few trips it popped the P0420 light, seemed to run ok, cleared it watched it wouldn't come back. O2 sensor did seem to imply a bad cat on bank 1 since it seemed sensor two was mimicking sensor one and not staying stead like the other bank. still ran fine,
So I decided to check back pressure on the cat. I pulled sensor one out of bank one (really a joyously tight squeeze in there) hooked up my gauge and got 0 back pressure. revved it and all nothing. hooked sensor back up pulled truck out of shop and it commenced to running like crap. I mean bad. running worse than before I got it. Popping P0012 code continuously, and tons of misfire codes associated with bank 1 ..cyl 3 etc.. I tried swapping coils, pulled coils and checked spark with a tester and firing away looks like tons of good spark.
Now the weird part is : looks like bank one is dead. I can unhook any coil pack and/or injector and it runs the same and sounds like it is missing. if I unhook one off of bank 2 it almost dies or does. so bank 2 seems to be running fine. it will start and run but sounds like it missing sets flashing check engine light and backfires and stalls like crazy. I even second guessed my pressure gauge and unhooked exhaust manifold from pipe and it sounds even prettier when it backfires out of there but no change. I pulled cam sensors and cleaned it again and even tried swapping them since they looked identical but no change so I put them back.
Now I can only surmise that I am out of time somehow? or I have a gremlin perhaps? I like working on cars (usually) but this one is getting old. how do I verify what is wrong. if it is timing related how do I verify that now definitively once my marks moved I really cant figure out how to tell if it is in time? Since it has all new parts and they all ran beautifully till now. could it possibly be the vct solenoid doing all this? I plan on changing it when it comes in but surely it cant cause this many problems.. I unhooked it no change, and it does it at a cold idle and any rpm. really runs worse at idle but bad at any rpm.
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My 07 xlt 4x2 4.6 (49700 miles) started missing a couple of weeks ago. Did it for 2 days, the Check Engine light came on, then it quit missing and ran normal. CE light was still on, so I had the code read and reset light. Got two codes: ignition missfire #8, and rich fuel. I assume the rich fuel was caused by raw gas in the exhaust.
Anyway, the truck ran fine for two or three days then started missing again. Checked #8 by taking the wiring connector off #8 COP - rough idle unchanged. Pulled COP off #8 and #7 and swapped. Rough idle unchanged and confirmed miss was still #8 by pulling COP connector. With #8 connected, disconnected #7 (with COP from 8) idle was significantly worse.
Replaced #8 plug. Same miss. What to check next?
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2005 Ford F150 lariat 5.4
I had a misfire under a bit of a load (acceleration) and up hills. I changed spark plus with OEM Motor craft ones, truck ran super nice for a couple week.
Had the engine light flash, slow down and the RPM go up a tiny bit then back down and the light goes off
Now I'm back to miss fire different location, and a rough idle. I've swapped coil packs around and the miss fire stayed on cylinder 4.
Spark plug screwed or injector or ?????
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I have a 2005 F-150 5.4L 2WD 90K miles. I started getting a misfire and hard jerk when going uphill. No codes for a few days but misfire got a little worse and more jerking at full throttle acceleration or level throttle up a hill got codes p0300 and p0171. I replaced the fuel filter cleaned MAF and changed plugs Motorcraft plugs (none of them broke during replacement). Miss got worse. Missing at idle and no power 3K rmp to get to 40. Only code pulled was p0171. Replaced upstream O2 sensors and COPs. Will barely idle now. Dies when put in gear. Full throttle barely moves forward a few feet just sputters. Checked vacuum lines cannot find anything. Only code I get is P0171. Fuel injectors next? Or shop?
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Car dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
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Motor started to misfire while out on grocery run. scanner said mifire on #1 so I bought a coil and plug. car ran well for a day then same thing on # 2.. repeat.. then # 3 repeat so did #4.
Now it did it again on #3. I switched the coil #2 and #3 to see if scanner would show if it followed the new #3 coil but so far no code. The misfire is on light acceleration, push down hard and it does not miss. Today I will try some fuel injector cleaner.. Is this the trail I should be following ?
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My engine started shuddering rather considerably a few days ago, seems to be misfiring. Happens both while idling and accelerating. Thought it could be a bad spark plug, and was prepared to replace them. Which is doable, but not easy, considering they're not very accessible with this particular engine. But when I lifted the plastic cover off the engine to take a look, I noticed this tube (circled in picture) had been worn away considerably in one spot. In fact, it's barely attached.
Now I'm no expert, but I've read that a leaking or disconnected vacuum hose can cause exactly the type of issue I'm experiencing. I'm wondering if the object pictured is in fact a vacuum tube. Might that be the issue? If so, how easy would it be to repair it myself? I'm not very experienced with making my own repairs, but I'm good with a set of tools, as long as I have instructions.
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I have a 2000 Ranger 2.5l, 4 cyl. Not long after the truck was purchased, there was a recall for the EGR valve, we took it in had that replaced, no issues. Well 2 years ago we had the P0401 code pop up, we replaced the DPFE and it seemed to fix things. Well a couple of weeks ago the code popped up again, we erased it and it came back a week or 2 later, along with the truck shuddering when the engine is cold. My husband said once the engine warms up the shuddering goes away. To make it more complicated it doesn't always shudder like that, seems to be intermittent. What could cause this problem? Does it sound like the DPFE again? Or something else we are missing?
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