Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Manual Shift Hydraulic Clutch Adjustment?
Dec 5, 2016
Is there any mechanical adjustment on the manual shift hydraulic clutch? My clutch is not slipping but is just about all the way up on the pedal.
View 3 RepliesIs there any mechanical adjustment on the manual shift hydraulic clutch? My clutch is not slipping but is just about all the way up on the pedal.
View 3 RepliesI am searching for any kind of adjustment that might enable me to force the clutch level to the positive stop. It stands off about an 1/8" to 3/16" and I think is the reason I am not getting engagement in first gear, it slips heavily but fine in all other gears. The key way on the the lever prevents me from moving it a notch or two if I thought I could and don't know if that's even the answer . I can't figure out what is preventing it from returning fully on its own I can push it by and and a little fluid will squirt from the reservoir. Ive replaced the slave cylinder and bled it.
Is there any adjustment under the dash? This is a 2001 elantra that I just put a 2000 trans 5 speed.
My original plan was to pull the parts from the 2000 and replace in the 2001. I had lost 1st and 5th totally and found a 2000 that went right in with some minor mtr mnt mods. It shifts just fine except for this 1st gear thing. I saw a video and am having second thought about that move. I dont really want to pull the trans out again.
1st gear just keep slipping. new clutch kit installed when I swapped them out. It feels like a linkage thing somewhat but I cant find adjust ment to tryout.
2006 4.2L The pedal is good and the fluid is full but the clutch engages and releases about 2 inches from the floorboard. Is there possibly a rod that can be adjusted at the slave cylinder that moves the engage/release point along the pedal travel? Any thoughts before I get out the creeper?
View 1 RepliesThis lady at work has a 2011(?) Elantra sedan and she said she complained about her manual trans. not being smooth. She said the Hyundai mechanic adjusted something in the clutch and her transmission became smooth again. What part needs to be adjusted? She doesn't know and I would definitely like to know because I know it is not normal.
View 4 RepliesI put a new clutch kit in my 99 f-150 with the 4.6. It came with the clutch disk,pressure plate and throw out bearing. I got the tranny back up in but now my Hydraulic line will not connect into the slave cylinder. Its still the same one that was in it.
View 1 RepliesWe have a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse with a hydraulic clutch. The pedal is very soft in the morning and requires a good bit of pumping the pedal to get good pressure. I know the system needs to be bled. Does this mean one of the cylinders is bad? I have added a little bit of fluid over the last year- maybe 2 or 3 ounces total. Right now the fluid level seems fine but it still needs to be pumped before driving.
View 7 RepliesI have a '89 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L with the AX5 transmission. I noticed over time I had to push the clutch pedal down more to make it work. I checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir and it was empty. I filled it but the pedal had no pressure. I looked at bleed the line protruding out from the clutch housing and noticed a fluid trail on it and inside the clutch housing. The rubber insulator at the opening was missing and suspect corrosion and any movement on the line cracked it where it connects inside. I am ready to junk this vehicle because it is rusted pretty bad, but thought I'd ask before I do.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Saturn SL2, with a manual transmission. The clutch pedal recently gave up -- it goes to the floor with no resistance, and I can't shift. I understand that this car has a hydraulic clutch, and that the hydraulic system has failed. My mechanic says the whole transmission system should be replaced, (though he hasn't been able to look at the car 'cause it's stuck in my driveway!) Before I donate the car to charity, could the problem be anything simpler? Or is it a straight forward diagnosis?
View 11 RepliesI wanted to put bigger tires on my truck, something more agressive. Is there a torsion bar? Can it be adjusted? How? If not what is the biggest tire i can put on with my stock 17" rims? 2wd 2005 f150...
View 2 RepliesHow hard is it to manually adjust the headlights? is it possible?
View 2 RepliesR32 MKV owner of 6 weeks. My headlights seem high, seem to be blinding other drivers. No manual adjustment, its meant to do automatically depending on vehicle weight etc?? How I sort this?
View 11 RepliesI just got this truck with the plow installed so I'm not sure what kind of adjustments are available for the plow itself. If I add a 3-4" lift, will the plow still reach the ground and work OK? What kind of adjustments would need to be made?
View 2 RepliesCan't bring the seat down it locks up?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 Phaeton with manually adjustable headrests on the front seats, haven't checked the rears, the drivers headrest stuck in the up position after moving it to clean underneath, pushed the button to lower the headrest with no luck and noticed the button was loose and not seated properly so I pulled it all the way out long piece of plastic with a small plastic pin on the end, put it back in a it bends the pin to the side, so decided to check out the passenger side it has a shorter piece of plastic with the same piece of plastic on the end and you guessed it that won't go back in either.
View 1 RepliesMy 2008 FX4 won't disengage from park without depressing the manual release (white button). Center console shifter interlock. All I need to know is the part number for that solenoid. None of my local parts stores have a clue and I don't trust my local stealerships.
View 4 RepliesSooooo... I found a keypad card in my manual folder but I don't have a keypad on the outside of my truck. Does this mean that my truck has the capability to accept one if I install it?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 VW Passat with only 75K miles. The manual seat adjustment started working sluggishly, so I took to my mechanic. I was told that the mounting is very thin sheet metal and cracked. They welded it up and it is somewhat better, but not nearly as good as new. Can't imagine that my problem is unique. Still a safety issue here - should VW have a recall?
View 1 RepliesSince taking delivery I noticed right away that the clutch was too low (almost to the floor to engage). How do I go about adjusting the height a little higher?
View 4 RepliesMy cluch is almost 2 years old and gets treated with kid gloves , I shift low in the RPM's And accelerate slow for smooth shifting and fuel savings (17mpg avg.). But as of yesterday I can here the gears wind up after I push the clutch in. No problems with power or gear handling , Just the sound of the gear(s) (low dry rev/wind sound) No visible leaks , Clutch has oil at the step mark. Also - I can Make The Trans create the same sound if I keep the clutch petal in and rev the engine.
View 3 RepliesI'm trying to diagnose a problem with my dad's 93 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 with a ZF S5-42 5 speed manual transmission. It seems to not want to shift back into gear once the truck has warmed up, with 1st, 2nd and reverse being the toughest gears to get into. We've done a transmission fluid change with the required dextron/mercon substitute but the problem existed before the change and the change didn't seem to solve the problem any.
This problem didn't exist until I did a couple hundred miles of towing with it, some of which was done in 5th gear (overdrive?), so I'm hoping the 5th gear towing didn't ruin the transmission. From a cold start the transmission has no trouble shifting into any gear as well as with the engine off when either warm or cold, but with the engine idling and the truck at operating temperature it can be difficult to impossible to shift into gear, especially reverse.
I think heat has something to do with the problem because the shifts were worse a when its driven longer and during the tow/driving that was done in the last part of summer. It sat most of the time since then but we took it out today to test some things. Hot or cold the external hydraulic slave had roughly the same range of movement, but the drive line seems to jerk more noticeably like power is applied to it during a shift when its warm.
This all makes me think, even though the clutch hydraulic system is working like I think it should, that the clutch is not fully disengaging when at temp. I'm not a transmission guy so before I start throwing parts/labor at a problem.
I recently purchased a 2011 Sonata GLS with a manual transmission--it has a mere 15k miles on it. I'd have to say that after driving it around for a bit I really don't like the gas pedal or the clutch pedal as compared to my old Honda, and my friend's new VW. The gas pedal is super sensitive--I feel like 90% of the throttle is in the first 10% of movement. I'm traveling at 60 mph and it feels like the pedal is only depressed 1/8 inch.
It's kind of the opposite for the clutch pedal. It grabs fine, that is, I can feel the engagement point perfectly, but there is so much travel. I feel like I lift my knee to my chest and have to push the clutch through feet of travel. More literally though, I can't just do most of the work by rotating my foot on the heel--I have to lift my entire leg. I prefer cars with much less travel and think the Elantra was pretty good in fact.
I don't have an eco mode since it's a manual so that rules out desensitizing the gas pedal by those means... Is there any way to reduce the sensitivity of the gas pedal, and to maybe reduce the total overall travel of the clutch pedal? It has to be reliable and safe..