Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: MPG Low / Dies Easily On Takeoff
Oct 20, 2013
I am getting 14MPG out of my 2007 with a 4.2L 5 speed manual single cab. That seems pretty low to me considering the HWY MPG is rated at 19mpg.
My son and I have also noticed when taking off from a stop it is very easy to kill the engine, it seems to happen more so in Reverse but does it a lot going forward. I have driven many stick shifts and this one is by far the worst as far as it dying on take off, really I have never seen one this bad.
I have also noticed some spark knocking at HWY speeds and it also feels like it has a miss a idle but when you push the gas it runs fine.
Installed Motorcraft Platinum plugs a few months back and checked all the gaps. Also new orielly brand plug wires at the same time.
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I have a 2012 Corolla CE (base model in Canada) that is completely stock. Took delivery in Dec 2011. Manual transmission. I am finding the car stalls from takeoff way too easily. Have had many manual trans cars before, and have experienced nothing like this.
Can be driving around town all day, no problem, then pulling away from a stop sign or light, and bam, I stall it. The clutch is a at a good peddle position - not too low, not too high.
Taking off on hills is a bit of a nightmare. Will stall easy there too. So I have to over-rev it to make sure I pull away from any stopped position. Passengers have noticed and said, "What are you doing! And I have to explain that if I don't over-rev from a takeoff, it may stall.
Case in point: at a car wash, aiming into the wheel slots to get into the track, at a very slow crawl in 1st and the car encountered resistance when the front tire rubbed the guide, and bam, it stalled.
After 7 months of driving this Corolla, I still can't get the hang of the clutch !! Does it sound like something is not set up correctly? What to check. Basically, it looks like I can't drive a standard.
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Who invented this thing---so I pry up the 3 metal clips on the cover and on the opposite side there are 4 plastic stuck in 4 plastic holes. Then I get on a stepladder to get enough leverage to yank them out to expose the filter.
Is there an easier way to open this thing? Was I supposed to disconnect the rubber hose first?
My 2006 5.4L had the air filter in a simple to pull open drawer---2 seconds open, 2 seconds closed!
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?
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As I said when I take off from a dead stop I can feel a clunk or a bump that feels like it is coming from the rear wheels. I can feel it more than I can hear it, although I can hear it a little. It is difficult to describe this. It is only for a second and kinda feels like the rear wheels have no traction then it bumps and takes off. If I ease into the accelerator I can avoid it, but I don't have to hit it real hard at all to get it to do it. I am sure it is not u-joints as I put a brand new drive shaft from driveshaft specialist on in the spring.
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My 06 FX4 has 106k it started acting up shifting last week and its driving me crazy not knowing what part to change. Sometimes when I take off slowly from a dead stop it shifts really quickly into o/d by the time I am at 15-20mph. Doesn't matter far as hot/cold but if i accelerate quickly it doesn't seem to do it. I have read it could be the Shift solenoid or TPS.
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I am having a hard time locating a mechanical knock coming from my truck. This is not an engine knock but rather a clunking noise when I come to a slightly abrupt stop and sometimes when I take off or am steering. I have recently replaced my upper and lower ball joints and all the u-joints as well. My truck has a 6" Fabtech Coil over lift and a 3" body lift. The truck is also rather squeaky when going over speed bumps.
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4 and I recently got a p0175 code. I've replaced the M.A.F. sensor, fuel injectors, fuel filter, new plugs, coils and checked the vac lines but I'm still getting a p0175 code. Ive reset my P.C.M. and the code stopped for 2 weeks but returned later. The truck runs fine when I erase the code but when it returns it hesitates on take off and has a slight shake like a misfire and it makes a bubbly popping sound from the exhaust. Im at a loss of what to do next! Could this be a code stuck in the P.C.M.? My mechanic thinks it may be the cam phasers!
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My buddies truck runs fine, but when he floors it he says it dies out. Like it shuts off. Lets off the throttle n it comes back.
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I have a 2004 F150 5.4 Triton. When coming to a stop the truck starts a rough idle then dies like it ran out of fuel. The tank is full. It is an intermittent problem but is getting slightly worse. It mostly happens after reaching operating temperature. Also there is the dreaded ticking sound once the problem start. Brought it to the dealership and after they had it for four days they said it stalled once and recommended replacing the motor! They could not answer the question as to why to replace the motor. No codes or warning lights are coming on when it dies.
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My son in law's 2004 F150 had been having a random hesitation and dieing on light acceleration. Now it is every time he drives it.Here is the scenario. After taking off from a stop, with light acceleration, when speed reaches 22 mph in drive, it is like you turn the key off,,,except all the gauges still work,radio air all electrical seems to stay on,BUT the indication lights on the dash and the small red anti theft dash light for the security function comes on. If you try to continue accelerating, the truck will die, but if you let off on the gas and then continue to accelerate all is well.
I tried starting off in 2nd thinking it is a transmission problem same scenario except truck did get up to 29mph before experiencing the dieing issue. Tried starting off with Overdrive disengaged, same problem. The truck is throwing no DTC codes and Ford says unless it throws a code, they can't work on it. Truck runs great at highway speeds . My son in law says that if the truck does die,(by trying to force acceleration) he has to stop, and put the truck in neutral or park, and then it will restart. I have checked all connections at the transmission, rear end and all sensors/controls, but no solution. We are getting desperate and don' t know what else to check. It has the 5.4 engine.
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I have had a 2005 f150 v6 5 speed for a little over two years. Got about 153k on it. Last night was sitting in a parking lot idling about 20-25 minutes, went to leave and she started sputtering hard, lost all power and died. Started back up, idled fine, as soon as i put it in gear same thing then the check engine light came on.
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When I turn the steering wheel all the way one way the truck dies and I was on the highway and getting off the highway and I was doing about 60 and put it in neutral and I was coasting and it died... when I put it in neutral the tach went down to idle then the needle went up to about 1500 and dropped back down to idle then the truck died.
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This is concerning my little brothers truck. It is a 2008 4.2 liter with around 55,000 miles on it.
He drove it to work today, and called me this afternoon saying that the truck starts then dies a few seconds later, and the battery light illuminates. He and a coworker checked the battery and connections....cleaned off corrosion on terminals, battery reads 12.xx volts without a load on it, it is the original though.
As of right now he is changing the fuel filter which hasn't been done yet. I also know of issues with the fuel pump driver module. I remember checking the one on my 2005 back when I owned it. As I recall it causes a no start condition, but would it cause a start then stop condition like this? He will check this when he is done with the filter.
Anything else that we can check in a parking lot to try and at least get it home?
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I have a 2006 F150 that cranks but will not start. I sprayed ether into intake and got it to start but engine dies if gas pedal pressed. It idles after starting just will not accelerate.
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My wife's 06 expedition 5.43v runs rough loud and dies. Not all the time just when it's to hot. I got a code it's p0022 cam sensor. I changed both started the rig up and heard loud rattling like metal maybe chain. It lasted for a the length of my video 1.4mins give or take then went fine, i turned the car off and back on everything seems fine. I know I got her oil done after driving. She had metal/plastic in her oil. I had all plugs done and actually i re did the 8th cylinder plug because it was miss firing and i pulled it by hand with only the socket no ratchet. I'm thinking the chain is going bad if not already bad. Only 113k miles my 04 f150 5.43v lasted 250k before motor swap...
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I have a 2008 Prius T6 that I took in for routine oil change at Big-O tires. They called and said water pump was leaking badly.
Pump replaced 2 hours later, but they cannot "burp" car because it won't start. The hybrid battery is apparently too low (1 purple bar) and after repeated attempts it's dead (one vertical bar on display). I've never seen this happen before... I've seen the car battery die (after leaving lights on) but the hybrid battery has never gone low.
Big-O calls and says,
(1) We've replaced pump before and never seen this happen
(2) We called Toyota and there is only one high-voltage charger in the region... we don't know where
(3) Toyota said nothing is wrong with the car, it just needs a charge
(4) Toyota said we did nothing wrong
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Trying to find a bit of information for my dad. He has a 2008 F250 with the 6.4L PS. It recently started making this horrible screech on his initial take off from park. After he let's off the gas and brakes, the truck won't make this noise again for the rest of the time it's on. He ended up replacing the turbo, and that did not resolve the issue. I believe the Y pipe was checked and it was fine. What it could be that would cause it only on the first acceleration?
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This has been an issue for a long time. The entire panel behind the center compartment with the cup holder would just come off for no reason. When if first happened, I was driving and it just felt right off. I snapped it back in place and it looked tight. But every now and then, it will just come off itself. Everytime I snapped it back in place but with just a little tap from the side of the cup holder, it's off again.
I've had it and I told the service advisor about the problem as I brought the car to the dealer for an oil change. The guy claimed he has never seen anything like this before and called the service manager to take a look. Then they looked at other gen2 priuses they had. Almost everyone of them came off with just a tap from the side. One of them required a little more effort but it's still very easy to take that off.
Then they told me it's normal since all Priuses they checked are like that. "We didn't design it, we just fix it".. Well that's true but that sounded a little irresponsible. They ordered a new part hoping it will get it fixed. Lucky it's still under warranty. I'll see what's next.
I think this is a manufacturer defect. I really didn't expect something like this from a Toyota. We rarely use the rear seats. Even when we did, I'm pretty sure the cup holders were not used, or being put on a heavy load or anything.
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Ok I have a 2004 f250 6.0L, has 104k on it. A little back story... truck was running well when I started to get surging on takeoff and it was blowing black smoke when it surged. After it hit 1600 rpm it would blow out and run normal. So did some research and found it could be the FCIM, I have the 4 pin and tested it and had 48.5v so it tested good. Did some more research and found symptoms leading towards the ICP so I replaced that and the ICR also.
Upon doing this my surging issue cleared up but now I'm getting a miss around 1200 + rpm weather it's in park Reving it or driving, but it is not throwing any codes, I did check with my code reader. I have also changed both fuel filters and have the EBP sensor on order as I hear they can be troublesome. My question is what should I do next or look at? I was trying to avoid the dealer so I can learn more about the truck in diagnosis.
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I have a v10 ticking on drivers side when I first take off in it. It doesn't do it idling and stops after you drive about a mile. I just had ford tune it up before this started so I took it back to have them check the plugs and they said it was a rod! Didn't sound right too me but I did check manifold bolts and they all was in place. Also if it was a rod would the noise go away???
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