Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Low Noise In Cab When Towing
Aug 11, 2011
I am thinking about getting a cat back setup on my truck, 2004 SCREW 5.4l 101XXX miles, I drie 65 miles roundtrip to work and have heard of the low in cab noise of the MBRP single out kits. My question is, who has an exhaust and tows with the overdrive off? How is the noise? My wife and I take our camper of a few ling trips a year, and I really dont want to listen to a loud exhaust for 10 hours when I am running down the hwy at 3000 rpm. I would really like to hear fro people running the MBRP setup, should I leave it stock? or how is the noise level.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
I recently purchased a 2006, 4x4, low mileage and when towing a trailer the truck develops vibration right at 52 mph. Dealer has not found the problem.
View 10 Replies
what is the towing capacity for my truck. 2007 F-150 4X2, V-8, 4.6L engine Supercab.
View 9 Replies
Ive got a 2004 excursion Eddie bauer and I've got the non-towing paddle mirrors with power adjustment, heated, and turn signals. I want to put the 2008 style towing mirrors on that have power adjustment, heated, turn signals, and have the marker lights but not power fold or power telescope.
How I can wire these new mirrors to my factory wires? I understand that the marker light may have to be separately wired in, but all of the other functions I want to wire in to my existing wires.
View 7 Replies
2010 F150 - 5.4L ... I encountered a disturbing chatter/buzzing noise while towing recently. I have not towed a lot with this truck but recently bought a 8.5x18 enclosed car hauler and have towed the trailer about 3000 miles so far. Twice I have experienced a chattering noise from the transmission under very specific conditions. Was traveling on a long flat road at about 70 MPH in 5th gear at about 2100 rpm when it started. If I let off the noise would instantly go away.
If I accelerated and went into 4th the frequency and tone of the chatter would not change with either RPM or speed, however, when I let off it would go away. It is almost impossible to reproduce because it has to be flat. It did once start to chatter in 4th when I was pushing a strong headwind at about 70 MPH and 3000 RPM.
View 5 Replies
I am looking at buying another ranger. Miss my 02 so much and my son will be 16 in a year or so. Thinking about getting us a 4x4 to share and ditching my full size Dodge.
I located an 04 FX4 II, and I was hoping to get some info and confirmation on a few things. I believe that all the FX4 had a 4.10 rear end. True?
What the exact towing capacity of the 4x4 FX4 is? My 02 (2wd) had a capacity at like 5200lbs, I am just wondering if this is the same number for the 04 4x4?
View 4 Replies
I recently bought a 2008 F250 with the 6.4 diesel indirectly from a dealership. The truck itself has 220,000ish kilometers, but the engine (as well as the turbos) are Ford reman that had about 12,000km when I bought it and I have only put about 6500km on it. It is already leaking oil but that is for another thread.
The reverse sensors, steering wheel controls and part of the stock 6cd radio have never worked. The towing system has errors as well. The fuel level sensor often has problems reading the new level after I put in fuel, but that is always fixed by disconnecting the batteries and forcing a hard reset.
I figured the steering wheel/cruise control problem was due to either a broken clock spring and/or the brake pressure switch. I replaced both those as well as the airbag because the horn relay failed closed when I put it back in the wheel. It did not fix the problem. The steering wheel buttons still intermittently illuminate, but the radio controls and cruise control buttons do not function regardless. The truck isn't giving any codes either.
The towing system will activate lights and brakes on a trailer as well as set the gain, but it will not detect that it is actually hooked to a trailer. I cleaned the pins, but I haven't looked any further into it. No codes for this as well.
The reverse sensors/system does not work. It will lock itself in "off". I am guessing this is because one or more of the sensors have failed, but I am skeptical that it would be just that given the trucks other problems.
The radio does work, but the auxiliary input/mode will not work. I ran the diagnostics on the radio and on 'Test 1' I got "SELF FAIL B1342 ECU" and "B2477 CONFIG". I tried to clear the codes, but I can't. I think this means the radio is kill.
View 6 Replies
My early 04 runs great until I tow my 24ft rv any distance over a 2 or 3 hour period. When I exit the eway to fuel up or take a break it will stumble and this last time it quit running all together. I use my scanguage, all Temps good while towing never go faster then 65mph, new batteries etc. I had it towed to a local diesel repair shop that I have used before (all the 6.0 problems, oil cooler, egr hpfp, ficm).. When I Went to see them a day later, told me truck started right up and ran great, pulled a few minor codes, none that would have caused my issues. Scanner based testing passed air management, injector balance, all cylinders even.
When they originally scanned, it did show multiple docs for injector contributing, egr insufficient flow, 2 glow plugs and cam/crank sensor, but after cool down again started up and ran great. Truck has 200k on it. Last oil analysis showed internal engine in great shape. I trust this shop and this is not the first 6.0 they have worked on, I am just learning now of taking the rv on the road now. It would be difficult to hook rv up and just runaround to try and replicate what happened and be able to get to any repair facility. Truck is stock with exception of 4 inch exhaust,turbo back, no tuner etc. Also shop and I checked ICP and it is good, quarter volt. It was replaced with pigtail a few years ago.I also have the blue spring upgrade .Just drove to town and back and it runs perfect!
View 2 Replies
My 04 F 350 started with a check gauge light while going down hill towing an 18 ft car hauler full of mulch. Did it for 5 seconds, then when we got to our land and I was getting ready to back up it did it again. and this time my oil pressure gauge was at zero. I shut her down. checked the oil. its full. Drive home everything is good. Today I'm getting fuel pressure gauge going nuts. 80 to 100 PSI. at idle no oil pressure and the check gauge light. but the engine is still running. Oil was changed 4K ago. fuel filters same. Where to start looking?
View 5 Replies
2016 F250 6.7L 4x4
I getting some tranny noise when towing on incline from a complete stop. When I slowly press the gas pedal I hear grinding noise. If i press the gas more my truck starts to move and the noise goes away. It doesnt happen all the time. This started right after my 1000 miles recommended break in before towing per ford manual.
My truck now has 2800 miles and the grinding noise occurs intermediately regular driving. Mostly on steep incline or decline. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet because I cant recreate the issue all the time.
View 6 Replies
When I hook a trailer to my '04 F-250 the parking lights stay on. The lights on the truck are not on. I pulled the fuse for the towing lights and they will go out. Pulled what I believe to be the relay according to the owners manual and they still stay on. I have to unplug the trailer every time I stop for any period of time.
View 3 Replies
I am beginning the process of setting up my gx for towing. It is a 2004 with KDSS. I have all the front two relays and wiring harness, but I have run into a problem with the rear towing relay- the relay that goes near the driver side rear tail light. I purchased what I thought was the proper relay part number 81985-60021. The problem is that the relay does not appear to be the proper fit for what I think is the plug that it belongs to. I have supplied a pic of the relay end and the plastic white thing that the plug in the back of the vehicle was plugged into. They are obviously not the same, but there is nothing else in the area that the relay would plug into.
View 11 Replies
I have replaced the cam phasers, tensors chains and guides 5.4 3 valve. Runs great no noise for 1,1/2 months but after it sit over night on first start up it makes all kind of noise for a few seconds then it is quiet so what would you do change the motor it has 134000 miles. I already have 800 in parts and 1000 in labor fix or replace if i replace what motor would you go with 5.4 2 valve are 4.6 which one will i need to buy vin is 1ftpw12574kd57164 the motor in it right now has 5w20 oil with the recommended motorcraft filter sounds like the chain tensors are losing pressure over night and that is the noise at first start up....
View 14 Replies
I went to throw my truck in 4wd the other day and now I'm experiencing a humming noise, but only when in 4 wheel. It's only noticeable when I'm in 4 wheel and I'm off the accelerator or coming to a stop, soon as I accelerate, come to a stop, or take it out of 4wd the noise disappears.
Only other symptom was I tried putting it in 4-low the other day and all it did for a good minute was rev up a bunch, but I switched it back to 2wd and 4-hi and low worked after that. 4wd does still work just fine, it's just buzzing and it's annoying the heck out of me
I did a search, not just on this forum either, all I keep getting is the old "buzzing 'til I put it in 4wd" topic. Hoping to get an answer before I start dropping money trying to find it on my own. I'm not used to these new-style 4wd systems so I'm lost for knowledge here.
View 4 Replies
The car does not come with towing package. Bought and installed 3 relays; 2 under the hood, one in the back. I connected hard wired TOW READY 20137 to the trucks' wiring system, checked voltage, nothing. Checked relays under the hood and and the back by the rear light, I could hear the clicking from them. Do I need to connect under dash brake controller too in order the wiring to active the wiring system ? Why this is happening
View 2 Replies
Just had new full struts installed as well as rear shocks on 04 F150, supercrew. There is a noise that only happens when you hit a bump. I initially thought it was the strut boot but having those replaced, and the noise still there means it was not that. What I should look at sounds like something is loose on the front end. Had an alignment done and they said all was tight.
View 3 Replies
In this video I go over in detail the procedure to swap out the Cam Phaser to get rid of that annoying knocking noise at idle! It is easier than you think. The procedure is the same for all 4.6l and 5.4l 3valve engines.
Ford 4.6l 3v & 5.4L 3v Camshaft Phaser Knocking Noise Fix - YouTube...
View 6 Replies
I noticed the problem today when I was driving to the store. I was going around 60 and went to pass a car. As soon as I hit the gas there is a popping noise coming from the engine compartment and it had no power. It only does it between 50-65 mph.
View 1 Replies
My truck has 91,000 miles and started last week with a tapping noise one the right side. Mechanic said could be cam phaser, lifters or crank case problem....
View 8 Replies
Read everything I could and couldn't find a problem/solution similar to mine:
- Replaced broken (in three pieces) actuator on driver's side. Also replaced hub assembly (bearings went bad). Afterward started getting the grinding noise all the time in 2wd that goes away in 4HI.
- Replaced the entire hose assembly since I was not getting vacuum at driver side end hose. Still wasn't getting vacuum, turns out passenger side actuator diaphram was completely torn up as well (checked vacuum with hose on passenger actuator, not removing and plugging like I should have), so replaced the passenger side actuator too.
- Driver side grinding noise went away completely, now getting grinding noise on passenger side ONLY WHEN PRESSING ACCELERATOR. Take foot off accelerator and coast down road/highway noise goes away. Noise also goes away when putting truck in 4HI.
My latest actions: I've checked vacuum at both ends of hose while someone in park throttles truck up to 3k rpm, vacuum doesn't appear to change at either hose end while opposite side is attached to its actuator. Replaced passenger side actuator again thinking the first was defective, no change in grinding noise. Greased ring on wheel hub where actuator attaches thinking I was getting a leak at the actuator/hub seal, no change. Still only a grinding noise when accelerating, not while coasting with truck running.
The perplexing part: If it is a vacuum issue, how is it I am getting good enough vacuum from the driver side but not from the passenger side, since the driver side hose connection is downstream from the passenger side? Also, how am I not seeing the vacuum drop when checking at the hose end of either side while someone throttles truck up in rpms?
My thoughts: Definitely a vacuum leak somewhere in the system, minor enough to not notice right away on gauge, thinking to check the vacuum box and check valves next. Also thinking the passenger side hose from solenoid has a small leak causing the issue on the passenger side and not the driver side anymore, so thinking of putting the old hose back in to see if there is any change (I had replaced the hose prior to knowing the passenger actuator was torn up so I am not sure if the hose is really bad).
3-piece actuator I described above in picture for reference. Honestly I was not surprised, this has been my luck with this truck.
View 14 Replies
5.4 sound like a diesel when idling?
View 14 Replies
