Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Loud Rattle Occurs On Every Startup?
Sep 10, 2015
I have a 2004 F150 with 195,000mi. For the last several moths the truck has had a rattle on startup, some days it is barely noticable and only on cold starts, other days it is loud and occurs on every startup. The truck was most recently serviced at the Ford dealer and is filled with Motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend and Motorcraft filter Every change before was either Motorcraft syn blend or Penzoil Platinum (I have always used Motorcraft filters on it) and the noise continued after oil changes so I don't think the drain back valve is the issue. I replaced the cam phasers, timing chains, chain tensioners, and guides about 15,000 miles (2 years) ago and the vct solenoids shortly after that. Here is an audio clip of the noise (I know the truck also has an exhaust manifold leak, I plan on replacing the manifold while im working on it
Is this noise the lash adjusters or have the cam phasers failed again (they were dorman parts)? If it is the lash adjusters, can they be replaced without removing the cams? will failed adjusters be obviously damaged? Should I also replace the cam followers? do i need to replace all 24 at once or can i safely replace only damaged ones or maybe just 1 bank (noise seems to only be coming from the pass side)?
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My F-150 has developed a rattle and vibration at idle that only occurs with the truck in gear and stopped (with the brake depressed.) The noise appears to be coming from the front of the truck, perhaps from the driver's side (though it's difficult to tell while sitting in the cab).
Before I go crawling around underneath with my son holding the brake while the truck is in drive--I would sure like to know where it might be best to point the flashlight.
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I have a loud tapping noise in my 07 5.4 triton. when its really cold on the first start up I cant here the noise but when it gets warm its tap tap tap again.
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I have a strange issue and it happens very sporadic. Sometime it occurs at startup, sometimes while driving. Not sure whether it is limp mode, but I have no throttle. It starts fine, idles, but no throttle. Like I said, sometimes it happens while driving and I have to pull over and shut it down and restart. Mods are few, it has an airaid air filter and I had the turbo rebuilt and egr delete both completed in May. FICM was rebuilt by ficmrepair.com a couple years ago. It does seem to happen more often when it is raining or with a heavy dew after sitting for many hours. 128k.
I adjusted the pedals all the way out and back in and it stopped for almost 5 weeks, but it has been pretty dry here in SW Ohio. then it got really foggy one day and rained the next and it has started again. Could it be that the EGR pigtail is getting moisture. It does not throw a CEL and my scan gauge II shows no codes. I did run a dose of hotshot's secret thru the fuel back in may, ran a couple tanks of fuel, then changed the filters with OEM. I have had this truck for almost 3 years, but still a newbie when it comes to diesels.
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2011 Santa Fe 3.5 L
I've isolated this rattle down to the cam phaser( CVVT) in the right cylinder head. It rattles bad for 2-3 secs on cold start or after it sits for 3 hours.
I've put in 5w20 synthetic oil and synthetic Lucas additive and it cleared up the noise for short interval start ups.
I changed the cam phaser in the right head with a used one ( 40k ) but it didn't make a difference. I should change out the attaching cam as well.
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This is very weird. A strange noise occurs intermittently. It sort of sounds like a pulley slipping on a steel shaft briefly followed by a brief rattling noise and may or may not blow out fuse number 14 (A/C Pressure switch, backup lamp and daytime running lights, redundant speed control heated pcv, ABS, Reverse park aid, EC Mirror), then the brake light and the ABS light is displayed and the cruise control quits working. It does not ALWAYS blow out the fuse as I discovered yesterday.
The first time it happened (about three months ago) I was doing 75 when it happened and was unable to figure out what it was. Yesterday it happened and I new it was fuse number 14. I replaced the fuse and it happened again within 3 minutes. It may be when I turn the wheel to the left. The first time it happened I was changing lanes, yesterday when it happened I was on a ramp turning to the left. In the driveway it happened as a backed up and turned the wheel to the left. I cannot identify where the noise comes from. After the noise and the blown fuse the truck runs just fine and I can continue to drive.
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I've began noticing about 2 - 3 months ago that while coasting up to 50-55 mph my truck begins to hesitate with a slight banging when it occurs. At first I was worried it may have been transmission, but once I talked to ford mechanics, they reassured me it was not, especially at 85,000 miles. I then noticed that taking it out of overdrive prevents the problem. It doesn't act up unless I am on the highway between 50 and 60 mph. It seems to progressively get a little worse and occasionally I can feel a jolt, as if it's struggling to shift into OD. What the problem could be? 2006 F-150 FX4 ...
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A very odd hum from the rear (2005 f150 4.2) that occurs at all speeds. Low speed it occurs regardless of load on the drive line. At higher speeds it only happens when i have considerable load on the drive line. All bearings in the diff were replaced less than a year ago when the main pinion bearing went and the diff gears were in pretty dam good condition. Wheel bearings are not getting warm to indicate a wheel bearing. And when i let off the throttle it hums for a few seconds and dissipates as the tension on the drive line goes away. I even looked at the carrier bearing assy and it seems to be in good working order. I live pretty dam far from any type of service so i was just curious before i start trying to trouble shoot this any further.
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So I just started leasing a 2011 Ford Fiesta, with an automatic transmission, which as I'm told is actually an automated manual. In any case, from day one the car has had a terrible rattle coming from the driver's side of the vehicle, which occurs essentially when going up hills, starting from a stop, and basically between shifting.
I looked it up online, and found some articles talking about Ford replacing transmissions, and some other similar complaints. When I took it in to the dealer, since I felt that it's ridiculous that a brand new car should have any rattle at all, they said they had to update the software for the transmission, and that may work. Now, over a month later, it still rattles quite a bit.
My question is, how normal is this? Is there any information about the Fiesta's transmission or other parts that say it rattles, but that it's not something to worry about? I was told at the dealership that due to the type of transmission it is, it would rattle occasionally, and that it should improve as the computer learns my driving style. I just think it's absurd that I should hear such a noise, which is clearly not what I would call normal engine noise.
I have to note that this is also only my second car, and I have had very little experience driving American cars, since most of my life I've driven exclusively Japanese cars. I don't know if it is just normal engine noise for a Fiesta, or if it's something to bug the dealership to get fixed while it's still under warranty.
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Our 2007 RX350 with 91,000 miles started an annoying rattle at startup that lasts a couple seconds then goes away. The car drives fine and makes no unusual noise after the initial start. Its definitely not normal as it hasn't done it the last 91K miles we have driven the car.
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I was stopped, turning my steering wheel to do a hard turn to get out of my parked position, as I turned my wheel I heard a THUNK.Then I reversed, got out of park, then went into drive and proceeded to drive to work. I noticed at every light, when I was stopped with my foot on the break, there was a new RATTLE in the vicinity of the front right tire, where I had heard the thunk. The rattle only occurs when the break is applied.
What could this be? The car is still under warranty, do I need to head straight to the dealership and "not pass Go"?
The Honda Jazz (Fit is the name in the US) is a 2010.
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I have an annoying rattle the occurs on rough road surfaces. It comes from the front right wheel area but goes away instantly with light brake pedal pressure. Three trips to the shop have not identified the problem. I just read somewhere that there are "anti-rattle clips" or springs on the brake calipers. Is this right and are these the same as the retaining springs/clips that can be seen from the outside through the slots in the alloys wheels?
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I own a 2011 IS350 RWD. My 4 year warranty just expired. So when it comes to rattles, the 4yr/50k miles no longer cover my rattle concern.
I spent about my 3rd year on a rattle that seems like only occurs when its cold. On cold days/morning, this rattle between the dash will come and it sounds like a bolt is loose, and is moving around or something like that along the lines of that.
So right before my 4th year mark came, I brought it in one last time to hope they can get rid of it. Once I got the car back, it was during winter.. so it still happened, but instead it was a lot louder than before.
Is there anything I can do? Since I've been trying to bring it in to get it checked out for a good year, I'm hoping there's a way for the dealership to honor that one concern I have with my IS.
Other than this rattle, I love my car. The rattle can get pretty bad/annoying especially when you're on a phone call. I bring this issue up during every oil change to get it checked out.
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One of my exhaust manifolds has been really loud for over a year now, just at startup. Sound becomes more quiet as the engine heats up.
No lights on dash, but I do have emissions here so I'd like to get it fixed early 2016.
Curious what the shop charges for this install. Or if it's worth it to do both at once.
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Trying to find any information on what's happening with my 2008 2.2 Diesel Santa Fe ... Been driving fine until I pulled up at a set of traffic lights yesterday and started hearing a loud rattle- knocking coming from the engine at idle.
Put it in gear and drove and it goes away. When at idle if you rev the car it goes away.
Mechanic seems to think it could be clutch as it vibrates the gearbox, but sound seems to be more prominent around the engine, my thoughts were maybe a loose timing tensioner.
Clutch replacement is very expensive.
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I have replaced the cam phasers, tensors chains and guides 5.4 3 valve. Runs great no noise for 1,1/2 months but after it sit over night on first start up it makes all kind of noise for a few seconds then it is quiet so what would you do change the motor it has 134000 miles. I already have 800 in parts and 1000 in labor fix or replace if i replace what motor would you go with 5.4 2 valve are 4.6 which one will i need to buy vin is 1ftpw12574kd57164 the motor in it right now has 5w20 oil with the recommended motorcraft filter sounds like the chain tensors are losing pressure over night and that is the noise at first start up....
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I bought a 2004 F250 super duty 4x4 with the 6.0 a couple weeks ago and have a few questions. Hopefully all of these things are normal, but I thought I would ask you experienced drivers.
1) Occasionally while driving when I lift off the accelerator pedal I can hear a sort of loud rattle under the hood. I assume this is the turbo shutting down? Is that normal?
2) 4x4 and locking hubs... I have the 4x4 hi and low switch on the dash. Do I need to also manually lock the hubs to go into 4x4? After reading the manual it seems like I can just turn the dash switch and they should automatically lock, but I'm not sure. The hubs are not marked, but going by the pictures in the manual I think I know which is "lock" and which position is "auto" or off.
3) Front wheels hop at full turn. I expected wheel hop in 4x4 or with the hubs locked, but even in 2WD with the hubs in the auto position the tires still "hop" or knock a bit at sharp turns. Is this normal?
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Sounds like a rod knock on startup but quiets after idle down. what gives and can this be a big problem? 75000 mi.
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I have a 2004 GX. When we hit a bump, we get a loud rattle unless the brakes are depressed. Found the answer in this thread: [URL] .....
I purchased my GX at a Lexus dealer about 400 miles away. The previous owner had a brake job done and replaced the front calipers with after-market parts instead of the OEM since he was about to trade it in. I took it to my local Lexus dealer who told me the anti-rattle spring "wasn't as beefy" as the OEM version and that's what's causing the rattle. Nothing they can do for me.
I came home and checked out the pins on the rattling caliper (see part 47748B) [URL] ....
I found that I was able to slide one of them back and forth about 1/8 of an inch. Makes me think maybe the internal spring is missing causing the loose fit. When I called the Lexus dealer I purchased from, the service manager said it's possible they didn't install the internal spring b/c the specs say it's optional.
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So my 04 FX4 with only 55000 miles is finally starting to rattle. I change the oil more often than necessary, use Motorcraft 5-20 syn blend and a Motorcraft oil filter. The big question is...
What happens if you let it tick away and don't fix it? Beside the noise, what can happen? Will they actually break? Freeze up in the wrong spot and shove a valve into a piston?
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We've got a 2006 F150 with a 5.4 in it. One of the new kids was told to change the spark plugs, then when I went to start the truck the next day it was missing bad. Plugged in the Ford IDS, number 7 cylinder is dead. Only codes are for that cylinder misfire, and random miss on startup. So, I double checked the kids work and it was all fine. Tried putting a new plug in, didn't work. Moved the coil to a different cylinder to see if the miss would jump, stayed on number 7.
Used a noid light to verify COP harness was working, and it was. Put a new coil on it anyway since I had one, still missing. Used noid light to verify signal going to injector for the cylinder. Signal was good, replaced the injector for the cylinder. Still misfiring. Ran a compression test and the cylinder has good compression. The threads for the plug are fine, not cross threaded or torn out. The only thing I can think is that the PCM has gone bad in a way that its firing the injector/COP, but doing so at the wrong time some how.
Every other cylinder is running fine, O2 sensors fine. PCM isn't trimming anything back to account for anything, and if it was it would do it to multiple cylinders to keep the engine balanced. Cant think of any more tests, and I don't believe there is anyway that the airflow could be restricted to only 1 cylinder, but I could be wrong. Wanna try and solve this to keep from sending it to the dealer.
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