My 2004 F-150 only has 52,000 miles on it and all of a sudden it lost the keeper off the lifter and doesn't hardly run. I am told that is common with the F-150 starting in 2004 but when I contacted Ford they admitted it was common but they won't stand behind it ...
View 6 RepliesAs everyone can probably tell, I migrated from the 6.0 Diesel section. A few weeks ago I bought myself a 2008 F250 with a 5.4. I do have several questions: It is a 2008 with 116,000 miles on the odometer
The guy I bought it from had replaced the engine in it. The tag on the engine indicates a build date of 4-21-06. It supposedly had 40,000 miles on it. He told me that the mechanic that installed it replaced the spark plugs and replaced one of the timing chain guides.
What model year would the engine be considered for replacement parts and trouble shooting?
I do hear, what I would describe from the old days as lifter noise. It is not a ticking, but more of a swooshing, RPM specific, that is slightly louder when the engine is cold vs. warm. RPM at idle is perfect at 640, fluctuating only about 5-10. It idles very smooth, hardly detectable.
I do not know what kind of oil was used in the truck, but the filter was after market. I changed it to 5W20 with a **** filter the day after I bought it.
The rear end is geared 3.73, and coming from a chipped diesel, this one seems sluggish. I realize this is a very heavy truck for the engine, but should it feel heavy. The "lie o meter" tells me my MPG is 9.4 driving in the city. Have not yet had a good chance to take it on the highway.
So, to summarize in trying to learn the 5.4. What would the model year be considered. What should I check with the swooshing/lifter noise.
I have lost drive and overdrive. I have first and second and when I let off the gas pedal everything seems normal. When I am in drive with overdrive switched off and keep a steady speed it doesn't shift into drive. When I let off the gas in drive the tach goes to 1k and its like I'm in neutral. If I switch OD on it's like neutral and the engine revs. I have pulled the pan and valve body and do not see any metal.
OD snap ring is intact. Fluid looks good with no burnt smell...I'm thinking shifting solenoids but have not tested them yet. There is no grinding noise at all and no slipping in first and second gears. It threw cam sensors codes and I replaced both but I think that was from the neutral condition and test drove before dropping the pans and still no shifting to drive or OD. No transmission codes...
Well heck, the PO of the truck I just bought has lost the spare key to the ignition, and the key that opens the tailgate and unlocks the spare tire. First question, is the key to the tailgate and spare tire the same key or are they different?
Second question, is there any simple way to have new keys cut for these things?
I have an 05 F150. Last week engine started running rough, check light was flashing. Engine lost power and got more erratic. Had it towed to Ford dealer, Dickson TN. Dealer says "#2 injector has suck open and flooded the Cylinder and bent the C-Rod." Ok have put in another 5.4(not at Dealership) hummm new engine runs the same as the one that came out. Had A different Dealer check this engine they tell me the right bank is not making compression cam has jumped time.
View 9 RepliesLost overdrive. Shifts when o/d disengaged. Dropped pan, valve body and found that the servo retaining ring is still intact but the small clip for the center shafts of the servo was broken. Found it loose on the valve body along with a flat piece of metal shaped like half of a hexagon. 3 sided shape, approximately 1 inch each side. Like one 6 inch piece that's folded together. Don't know where that came from. Afraid to put back together without knowing where that came from. Was founded right next to the broken clip. 2007 f150 4.6 4x2 ....
View 13 RepliesI was using a 2004 Heritage F150 and when I connected a trailer to it something got fried. I lost both my turn signals and brake lights. The trailer worked fine on my friends truck so I don't think the issue was there but with the 4-pin round connector that was on the truck.
I found two 10A fuses blown under the hood and replaced them but that didn't work. They were in slots 19 and 20 and are listed as the camper/trailer adapter fuses. The running lights still work. The interior turn signal arrows don't even light up or anything when the turn signal is activated.
I went for a drive in my new truck and hadn't put the pedal down until now. its really cold here (5f, or -15c). Anyways so i waited for the engine to get warm and then i put my foot down until i got to about 100km (60 mph). Everything was fine, I was on a gravel road so i turned around and did it again, this time i totally lost power once i hit around 60kmh. the check engine light flashed a few times, i tried again, same thing, this time the check engine light came on and stayed on.
I eased off the gas a bit, then came to a full stop a little ways down the road. I tried again and this time i had full power, though i didn't take it to 100kms because there were icy patches all over the road and the truck went a little sidways. The check engine light was off, and i tried one more time after that and got up to 100 and everything was fine and the check engine light never came back.
I'm worried, my first real truck here, what happened?? Also when i stopped the truck i had a listen to the engine, everything seemed normal, but I've noticed before there seems to be a clacking sound almost, not sure if this is normal with a 5.4? I had a 2.2 litre sonoma before this so I'm new to all this.
My truck decided to have some issues last weekend coming home from a friends house. After being on the road for about an hour the truck shuddered, lost speed and was incredibly sluggish trying to get up the hill. It flashed the CEL and then went out. I was doing about 75 with the cruise on.
After slowing down to about 60 it stopped the shuddering and resumed operations as normal. Until about 20 minutes later when it repeated the above.
The next day I grabbed my reader and found the P0302 and P0306 codes. I cleared the codes and took it for a "test" drive up and down the mountain to see if it would trip the codes again. It didn't flip the codes. I thought I might have been dealing with a "one off" issue and left it alone for a few days.
Two days ago the CEL light came on and stayed on this time. Sure enough P0306. Cylinder 2 did not throw a code this time. After doing some research on here I ordered two new COPs and bought a mechanics stethoscope and some new spark plugs just in case.
The stethoscope confirms that cylinder 6 is having some issues. The COPs came in today so I'll take it apart tomorrow and see what I see. I'll be looking at both the COPs and the plugs to see what may be causing the problem. The "nice" thing about this is that at least it's one of the easier COPs to get to.
Should be a nice day for working on the truck.
2004 auto ranger 120k miles
When I bought it there was a lifter making a tap tap tap. Its not all the time or consistent which makes me feel its a failed lifter as opposed to a rocker arm that is loose. Ive tried the "stuff" in the oil. Seafoam, marvel mystery, etc with no luck. So this coming winter Im going to break it down and replace the lifter.
First question. I havent put a stethoscope on it or used the "hose to ear" method to track down which one it is. Im pretty sure its the right bank in the front. Will it be obvious which one it is when I get it broken down?
Next. At 120k miles should I be worried about the other lifters? Ive never had one fail on anything I own and hardly ever hear them on other cars. I pretty much thought that hydraulic lifters were failproof anymore. Should I be worried about the others?
Next next, do I need to be worried about damage to the pushrod and or rocker arm? Should I be prepared to replace those as well? Finally anything else to be concerned about or consider?
I recently bought a 2005 F150 King Ranch. I had a 900km drive to get it home but only mad it half way and am now stuck. I was stalling every time I came to a stop and eventually lost oil pressure. This is when I stopped driving and took it in. The shop said it had a knock in the lower end and stopped diagnosing it there. I can now sell it for parts and take a big hit or I can try and patch it myself.
I am assuming based on my symptoms it is a spun rod/main/thrust bearing. The mechanic was not very supportive to narrow it down to anything other than replace the motor.
How many km might I get out of this engine if I pull the motor and replace only the crank and rod/main/thrust bearings. This will not be my daily driver so if I can get another 50000-100000 km off of that, then it will last me at least 5 years.
This is of course assuming that when pull it apart I do not find an other major problems such as bent or broken pistons and rods or scoured cylinder walls. I am not that experienced of a mechanic, so I am not that confident about pulling the heads off and rebuilding the whole thing.
2008 F150 5.4L .. The truck lost all power the other day driving and barely made it to work. On the ride home it was still running horribly, like it just fell on its face. the check engine light came on. Went to autozone and put HEAT in the gas tank cuz the night before it was at quarter tank and temp went from warm to freezing(thought maybe condensation in tank).. Truck ran a lot better( not perfect). Drove around that day and it was fine. Pulled down the driveway and CE light shut off. Ran the code anyways and it was P0012..
Talked to a few mechanics and they said try replacing the Camshaft position sensors..did so and it ran worse. the truck hardly would idle or rev and shook violently..i shut it down right away. Then it threw 9 codes..Cam shaft position- over retarded timing bank 1(P0012), misfire cyl2, misfire cyl3, misfire cyl 4, random misfire, cam sensor bank 1, three of them were repeated codes..
I replaced the sensors back to stock and cleared the codes. the truck is running like it was in the beginning of the problem..No vilant shaking but falling right on its face at idle and any rpm..not drivable. Would rather do the work myself. very capable except for replacing camshaft phasers which i have heard could be the issue..Could it by the VCT seliniod, EGR valve, plugs, wires...Did just change the oil a week ago and cleaned and reoiled air filter.
I have an 04 5.4L SCREW Erratic Speedometer.
Most of the time it works, some of the time it bounces or doesn't read at all.
What should the idle be at for a 2004 f150 fx4. When I first start the stuck it jumps to about 1200 or so and then after a few seconds settles at about 500 and stays there at all stops. It seems to be smooth but when I let go of the brake, the truck doesn't really want to move forward. It is a crew cab so I know there is some weight there. If anything is wrong, what are some possible fixes.
View 3 RepliesI have an 08 s-crew and latley the gas gauge doesnt seem to read correctly some times. Once waiting for the wife to get in and the low fuel alarm chimed and the gauge read empty. I just filled the tank. What could cause this?
View 2 RepliesMy 2005 Ford F-150 Lariat 4x4 5.4l V8. the climate control system will not let me lower the fan speed or let me change the airflow direction. and my heated seats will not work as well.. i looked at the fuse it was good.. and un-plugged the battery for 3 minutes.
View 2 Replies06 f150 4x4 when locked in 4 hi or low front doesn't spin and there is a clanking..... not sure what to check first.... u joints look OK....
View 1 RepliesNo matter where I put the selector it blows out the floor, the defrosters and the air cond vents, which I have to keep closed. It doesn't switch the air flow anymore. What gives?
View 4 RepliesI am working on a 2005 F-150 with a 5.4L 3V engine.
I had the battery disconnected doing some other work and now the Evap monitor will not complete and keep getting a P1000.
I have followed the drive cycle instructions and all the monitors have completed except the Evap monitor. Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle
What would cause it to fail?
Just recently replaced the driver side 4wd actuator. When testing the system to see if it was working, I noticed that in 2wd everything seemed to be in order (wheel spun without the half shaft, no grinding noises on test drive, seemed good to go).
However, when I switched to 4hi, the dash light "4HI" would come on but the wheel still spun freely without the half shaft. When the truck was off, the wheel and half shaft spun together as they should when vacuum is released from the actuator. When I switched to 4lo, the dash light did not come on and the check engine light came on. Pulling codes revealed P0171 and P0174.
Could these codes be caused by a bad solenoid? Is the solenoid not switching the vacuum off and that's my issue? Are there other possibilities?
Ok my 2004 F150 has been messing up lately. The 4wd doesn't work. Pretty sure that's the actuators however, now it is riding EXTREMELY rough! Every time I turn the wheel to turn into a parking lot and then proceed to enter the lot something in the front end pops! Loudly! It sounds like popping out a dent like its loud! What it is. I just know 4wd doesn't work, there is a loud popping noise when I hit pot holes or turns. I CANT even go off road now because of the popping noise and also it is extremely extremely rough. Any clues on what's up?
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