Had the intake manifold replaced about 3 weeks ago. On the highway I stepped on the gas and something blew losing my coolant. I can see a place behind the #4 plug where water is coming out. No hose to be found. Plugged it and it got me back home but still losing water. Can't see where it's coming from but it pours out when running. Passenger side rear of motor.
View 1 RepliesI bought my 2008 JDM Prius a couple of weeks ago, at 84,500km. After a week, it started losing engine coolant. (Great start! Hope it's not a sign of things to come...) Fortunately, covered by a 3 month Dealer Warranty - hopefully. Yet to make the claim.
Anyway, went to the local Toyota Dealer to get some of the proper Toyota SSL (Super Long Life) Coolant to top it up. Got chatting with the Service Agent about Prius Service and what HSD Adjustments are possible (not many) and showed him my symptoms.
1999 3.0. Been losing coolant internally. No water in the oil. Been back and forth on doing a full engine swap (its got 250k on it). So finally decided to just try the head gaskets. Anything out of the ordinary on these? Anything to look out for? Any special tools?
View 14 RepliesAbout mid-October I noticed when it as real cold out and I had the heat running whenever I would come to a stop I noticed there is very little to no heat coming from the vents, despite the engine being warm and running at operating temps. At the time I was working for a shop and I asked one of the mechanics what the problem was. He said that it was the radiator not having enough coolant.
Turns out when we pulled the cap the coolant res, was just about bone dry. So we added in about a gallon or so of coolant with the truck running and sure enough at idle the heat was back.
Fast forward to the last couple of weeks and when I am sitting at idle again same thing happens. So somehow the engine is losing coolant. Its not ending up in the oil (no white on the dipstick) and there is not a coolant leak. As it sits there is 255,300 miles on the truck now. 1999 5.4L F150....
I have a 2008 6.4 f-250. It has 139,00 Miles and I have a problem with the truck losing coolant and overheating on the interstate. When cruising 75-80 my truck will sometimes begin to puke coolant from the degas bottle and my cooling fan will begin to run. Engine coolant temp once spiked to 240 degrees before I could get off onto the shoulder. Around town the truck does fine although I do notice a loss of coolant but no overheating issues what so ever. I have the Dpf Deleted and Egr coolers are off. I run an H+S on a mild tune. Is there any other thing that could be wrong with this truck besides head gaskets? I am not looking forward flipping that bill. Trying the exhaust all other possibilities first.
View 3 Replies2004 echo, 109,000 km. P0301 came up and upon investigation I discovered that my no.1 spark plug well was filled with what I believe to be coolant. The top of the valve cover (where the coil packs are seated) was bone dry. The oil, from what I can see on the dip stick looks ok - I intend to replace to investigate further. Coolant is low. Spark plug wells for cylinders 2 - 4 are ok.
View 8 Repliesi have a 2008 xlt ford escape and i have coolant leaking issues, my reservoir would empty so i had to refill it with water. and then i let the car run but nothing leaked so i turned the AC on and it started leaking so i investigated further and identified the source. i, am not sure what is it, it might be a lose hose or something else.
View 3 Replies2006 van. It is a work van use it every day and travel the same road every day. Pull the same hill every day use to hit the bottom at 70 and crest it at 60, now I'm down to 45 mph.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 ISF with 41k miles on it and yesterday I noticed the famous dried pink coolant below the water pump. I thought it only impacted previous years but apparently not. I'm going to drop it off tonight at the dealer since it is still under warranty. Doesn't look like the job has been done before according to Lexus service records.
View 3 RepliesMy audi runs great. Its has 170K miles on it. My mechanic replaced an air pump last Friday and by Monday I had a new issue. I noticed coolant leaking. I took it back to the mechanic who fixed the airpump to diagnose. He tells me that the leak is coming from the timing belt/water pump area and in order to get there it takes 7 hrs. He suspects that its the water pump or a cylinder block crack. He suspects it could be a water pump breakdown more than a block crack. A block crack could be a serious issue with the engine is what I suspect.
I think he did something wrong when he replaced the air pump. He tells me that these are in two different areas and that he canbe generous with his time in only diagnosis but not in fixing the problem. Do you think he is right ?
He recommends that when they open the timing belt cover its best to replace the belt, tensioners, water pump etc.. Now spending $ to get to know where the leak is sounds steep.
I have a small problem, the dealer that serviced my car just told me that my water pump was leaking and I was low on coolant. I can't remember when was the last time I checked the coolant level but when the dealer top off the coolant, he nearly used the entire bottle. Needless to say, I believe the radiator was pretty low on coolant.
Now I've never noticed a high temperature warning lamp or ever broken down. Today at 125,000 miles, I went to change my spark plugs. The 1st plug to the far left as you are facing the car has oil in the spark plug. This is freaking me out, could my engine be damaged from the low coolant?
Had a spark plug sleeve come out, the part with the hex head to turn the whole thing. Wonder if JB Weld put on the inside of this sleeve and placed back over the plug will hold enough to turn the plug and get it out after some more pb blaster?
View 4 RepliesI have an 04 F150 5.4 w/67k. Just changed the OE plugs. While I had it in the garage also cleaned the K&N air filter. Truck runs great but I lost about 3 MPG. I was getting 16 all around and am now getting about 13 under the same conditions. I bought a Purolator air filter and switched it with the K&N but there had been no difference. I used Champion plugs as the replacements. Truck ran great before and runs great now.
View 14 RepliesMy 2006 Prius with 120k miles has coolant seeping around the water pump. I called around to get quotes on replacement cost, but one place said the thermostat should be replaced at the same time, while the other said it shouldn't. (BTW, I will have the belt replaced at the same time).
View 8 RepliesHave 146k on an 05 SuperCrew, 4.6 V8, it's like my right arm! Don't know what I'd do without it. The other night, at interstate speed, something "popped" and the check engine light came on and it started missing. Left it at the mechanic's overnight, he swapped coil packs with no change, pulled the #6 plug and found it wet with antifreeze. No water in oil, no overheating, no other signs of head or gasket failure.......I'm tempted to put some stop-leak in it and change the plug.......
View 6 RepliesI was getting a misfire in #4 cyl. Couldn't afford to change all my plugs, so I replaced the one that was missing. Two weeks went by, truck ran fine, then it started missing really hard (same cyl #4). Thought my COP was bad, so replaced that and the boot.
Drove my truck to work last night, seemed to run fine, but this morning, it started to sputter again around 45-55. Plug in my OBD2 and it wasn't throwing any codes, seemed to idle just fine.
When I got home I put it park and revved the engine a little bit. Got it around 2500 rpm and it sounded like I have a air leak in a way. What do at this point. It is a 2007 F150 5.4 triton with 104xxx on it.
I have a 2006 5.4L F150. I am encountering a misfire on the #3 plug. The only OBD error messages I receive are from misfire on #3, no other faults.
I have checked the plug, and it looks pretty good. I have recently changed all COPs. I have removed the injector rail and checked and cleaned all injectors. I have removed the wire connector from COPs and checked the voltage while the vehicle is running.
The #3 connector is measuring around 13.6V ... The other COP connectors I measure 0.17V to 0.4V ....
It appears this low volt reading is due to the neg signal wire closing and opening. I brought it in to a mechanic and he indicated the computer needs to be replaced, no signal was getting to COP. So this appears where I am at.
I have hence gotten a LED test light and verified the other COP connector wires cause the test light to flash, while the #3 COP wire connection to just stay on all the time, no blink signal. What the problem is?
The engine sounds pretty good, maybe a slight tick sound. But the misfire wobble is apparent. I figure I will change the computer at this point, since it appears this is where the issue is.
What else could interfere with the COP neg signal? It is pretty clean in the engine compartment, and no visible problems with the wires fraying on the accumulator, as I have read reports happening.
Is it the cam that makes this negative signal wire open and close?
I just picked up a 05 F150 lariat 5.4 2wd with a 177k on it. What the chances of these plugs coming out with out breaking? Any tips tricks to getting them out? Should I put motorcraft plugs back in it ?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 Fx4 with 60,000 miles. I wanted to change the spark plugs myself yet I can't seem to find were they are in the engine, I know how to take them out but I don't know how to get to them.
View 1 RepliesI own a v10 and am getting ready to assist a buddy out with his 05 5.4l. He wants me to change the spark plugs out. I have changed the spark plugs on my 04 v10. I think this is the year for went to the 2 piece spark plugs. Also what torq setting should I torq them to? Should I also use anti seize with them or no? Does the gap need to be set on the plugs? I dont have a book to go buy.
View 12 Replies1989 3.0 shorty - 135K on her - and at 21 years old, the original radiator finally failed with a hair line crack, and so I bought a plastic on, from on of the part stores, put it in, and now it takes on like a gallon a month of antifreeze.
BUT I see no leak at all... the engine runs fine, and not head gasket or crack head (been there done that with the explorer I have). I don't smell it either really -heater core is dry... as is floor underneath. Need replacing the Radiator?