Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Knocking When Idling Very Rough
Nov 3, 2014
My truck is idling terribly and knocks while doing so, little info is
The truck has 170k miles, I just bought it about two months ago and it was running perfect, drove it to the beach two or three times (4 hour drive) no problems whatsoever. Two weeks ago I noticed it start rocking a bit at idle ONLY when warm, check engine light came on so I ran the code and it said the Cam shaft positioning sensor was bad so I replaced both of those, then the next code I got was for the vct solenoids, replaced both of those and the problem is still persisting. It is odd to me in the fact that when its cold, it runs flawlessly, no problem accelerating/idling/maintaining speed/smoke nothing at all.
As soon as it gets warm it will still do everything flawlessly EXCEPT idle. the idle rpm is around 300-400 and it rocks and knocks terribly.. If i am stopped and I apply some throttle in park or nuetral, just enough to get the rpm up to around 800-900, its perfectly fine. no more rocking no more knocking but as soon as i let my foot off the gas it goes right back to feeling like its going to fly out from underneath the hood.
So my question is why is this? What on earth is going on here? and how do I fix it? And why is there not a manual idle control. Ford place said there was likely damage to the head and recommended a full engine replacement.
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I have a 2007 F-150. Here is the story....
Last summer the truck was idling rough and seemed to be stumbling a bit. Took it to the dealership and had it diagnosed. Had a mis-fire code on cylinders 1 and 3. I was told to do the spark plugs and clean the MAF. After replacing all plugs and cleaning the MAF the truck seemed to run better but it didnt last long before it started doing the same thing. My Edge Evolution started showing misfire codes in cylinders 1 and 3 again and the truck is stumbling like crazy. Here is what i have done:
1. Swapped the plugs from cyl. 1 and 3 with cyl. 5 and 7 and the problem followed.
2. I replaced the bad plugs with new ones and i no longer get a code for those cylinders but the truck is still acting the same.
Now I am getting two codes saying the system is running rich on bank 1 and 2 and a misfire code in cylinder 4. I cleaned the K&N filter and replaced the MAF but it is still the same. The truck stumbles horribly under a load and has NO power.
History:
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat
75K miles +/-
K&N Filter
Edge Evolution (has been kept in stock mode)
new spark plugs last summer
new MAF (this week)
New Fuel filter (two summers ago)
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Getting these codes what they mean or need to do ..to get rid of them...p0022, p0171, p0174, p0183, p0340, p0300, p0316, p2006 did timing n plugs fuel filter n gas filter getting very bad gas mileage it runs good but here a ticking in motor at idle and more as u accelerate, running rough....
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I have a 2005 5.4 F-150. First off it came to me on a rollback because the owner tried to replace his plugs after he noticed it missing and of course broke one off. So after I extracted the plug from #8 cylinder and installed a new plug I cranked the truck and it was idling very rough and had a terrible miss around 1200rpm. I pulled the codes and got several misfire codes and ignition coil faults on #5,6 and 7 cylinder. Popped in 3 known good coils in these 3 cylinders with no difference.
On Mode 6 on my diagnostic software you could watch the misfire count steadily increase on #7 and every now and then there would be a single misfire on #5 and 6. It also had several codes for O2 sensors biased, stuck rich on that bank. Well since it had a brand new plug and coil, I popped an injector in #7 and havent had a single misfire on it since and it also started idling alot better and all the O2 codes went away. The problem I am having now is #5, 6 and now 8 will randomly misfire, sometimes build up a steady count on one of them, sometimes just skip around between them.
The truck has brand new plugs in all 8 and new coils on this bank also. The truck has 115,000 on it and does have some cam phaser noise on the bank causing the problem, but its not too terribly bad, I have heard alot worse. My problem is something on that bank only as the passenger side bank is fine. I am wanting to say cam phaser now since this is the side with the noise. I have changed them before but have just experienced the noise, never one running like this because of it. Possibly jumped time a little?
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I have a 2006 f150 it was making a knocking noise after the engine oil temp reached 160* and made the noise to 1700rpms. I thought it was the cam phasers so I replaced them. The truck is still making the noise and running rough and stalling but not as bad and not as often. Before it did it all of the time. The truck is timed properly. I had a new cam sensor and tried it but that did not work. I watched vct on the scan tool and both cams are in sycn.
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My brother's 5.4 has been rough idling and dying at stops and in reverse for a few weeks now. Today it threw a code and he finally had me look at it and it's a P0345 code. I was thinking cam phasers possibly, but I didn't think that would cause a code to throw. Also, all I hear about cam phasers is that it makes the truck sound like a diesel, but his when it's about to die sounds like the engine is about to drop out the bottom of the engine bay. Really rough, REALLY loud knocking, etc... What we should be looking at replacing to get this thing back into shape?
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I have a 2007 F150 XLT, Supercab 6.5' bed, 4x4 5.4 Automatic with 67000 miles on it. Its not a Flex Fuel
Over the past couple of weeks it would get go through random rough idling spell or stall going down the road. If it was sitting it would idle clear down to 200 RPM's and just sound like an old 'chitty-chitty-bang-bang' car, not a modern marvel of Ford engineering!
I noticed it particularly does it this on an incline. Initially I fixed it by just coasting to where it was flat. I normally keep it above half a tank so i dont think its a fuel pump not getting fed. So I replaced the fuel filter yesterday hoping it was full or clogged, no changed.
This morning it would start at all, I removed the negative terminal on the battery, rolled to the level, tried it 30 times. Nothing. I checked all of my connectors under the hood and the 2 below the cab under the plastic cover. Everything was connected. I disconnected the fuel pressure sensor and it fired right up and runs smoother than since I've owned it.
It hasn't had any CEL lights, until I disconnected that sensor. Should I drop the tank and clean it? Is there any special gasket kits or connectors I should be aware of? Should I just replace that sensor? Is it connected with a chain of sensors I should check first?
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Wtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
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I didn't know my car was low on oil and the oil light never came on. The car has been working flawlessly till I got home and I heard a really weird knocking noise and it's a light knocking noise when the car is idling but when I press the gas pedal the noise becomes louder. The noise sounds like its internal it's coming from behind the engine near the exhaust manifold where the spark plugs are located. I have changed the spark plugs and drained and added new oil into the car but that still didn't fix the issue. The car has about 129,625 miles on it and is in mint condition buying a new engine would be pointless knowing that the value of the new engine is basically the value of buying another used car.
Car: Hyundai Sonata 2008 GLS 2.4l
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I've got a 2004 Explorer 4X4 with the FlexFuel 4.0L V6 126,xxxish Miles... Last Monday i noticed that the x was idling rough around 500rpm. While in park or driving.
I spent Wednesday looking for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, cleaned the MAF, Changed the Hose that runs from the intake to the evap purge valve thinger.
Broke off the two torx head bolts holding the TPS on and had to buy a whole new throttle body. Installed the new throttle body and fired it up. it idles around 1000 for a few seconds then drops to 500 ish rpm. While the rpms are coming down it runs as rough as it did before..
I've filled it with premium gas and added a bottle of gas dryer to the tank and still idling like crap, drives fine though.
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I have an 08 Passat 2.0T with 44k on it, just did the 40k service around 42k. This past Friday I filled up from almost completely empty, and later that day and ever since the engine has been idling rough and the CEL came on. Gas cap has been checked already.
Should I wait to go to the Stealership until I've burned this tank of gas out? Is there anything else I can do that you can think of?
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Check engine and tcs light came on solid. Rough idling and rpm fluctuations while cruising. Brought it to toyota and they scanned it revealing a P2195 code: bank 1 air fuel sensor stuck lean. So what I'd like to know is; How long was the vehicle in the shop? What is involved in repairing this problem?
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I have a 6.0L Powerstroke with about 74k miles. I've owned it about a year. this weekend while driving on the highway at about 55mph i slowed to make a turn. As it came to idle i noticed it was idling real rough. As I accelerated it barely got across the highway. I went to where i was going and let it idle but gave it gas and raised the rpm's to about 1k.
I was concerned it was going to die. As I left it seemed to be better but as i drove it would get real rough and then go away. I accelerated a couple of times engaging the boost and it seemed to be better. I made it home and parked it, but i let it idle before i turned it off.
Now it will not start. it just cranks. everything is pretty much stock. i replaced the fuel filters back in december and also did the blue spring upgrade. I have a OBDII but i didn't have it with me so i wasn't monitoring at the this time. What should be my next step?
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backed out of the garage fine later in the day went to put it away started hard would not idle and only rev to 2500 .cleaned map sensor,egg valve tested and it works.cleaned the IAC and that works ,fuel pressure is 58psi. starts hard it would idle now it doesn't dies, no code . with 58psi could the pump still be bad? it has 18 pounds of vacuum. where is the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator on the motor?
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I have a cylinder 3 misfire and the vehicle is idling rough so I took it to the deal because I have a power terrain warranty. They're telling me I'll need a new manifold and plenum, coil pack, plugs, and gasket. Could this be accurate? I don't want to get screwed over...
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I have a 2004 F150 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 . I got a new transmission put in and a Oil change shortly after. A few weeks later I got a knocking noise. No check engine light, starts up great, No real notable problems just the noise. At Idle no noise just the usual cam phaser ticking, but once the engine is warmed up at about 1100 RPM it starts knocking like a . I took it to a few different shops one was sure it was the timing area so they replaced the timing chain, tensioner, pully. ect. Took it to a ford dealer where he didn't really look at it just said you need a new engine.
I went to another ford dealer where they said rod knock or stuck lifter but if that were the case shouldn't it knock constantly? another shop said VCT soleinods, Spark plugs. another said it could be the flex plate! I'm aware of the cam phaser diesel ticking noise they notoriously have but thats not it. I've parked it for a few years to be safe but started it weekly. I didn't intend on having it sit for so long but due to work situations and what not it has sat but now I'm on a mission to make it my daily driver again. I'm no mechanic but I'm not totally green to vehicle mechanics so ill be inspecting what i can within my limits.
YouTube video : [URL] .....
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In this video I go over in detail the procedure to swap out the Cam Phaser to get rid of that annoying knocking noise at idle! It is easier than you think. The procedure is the same for all 4.6l and 5.4l 3valve engines.
Ford 4.6l 3v & 5.4L 3v Camshaft Phaser Knocking Noise Fix - YouTube...
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I have an 05 f150 5.4 v8 super crew cab and I bought it for 3000 because of a cracked block. I bought a re-manufactured engine and installed it and now i have a knocking that wont go away. After I started it up it sounded beautiful for about 10 minutes and then i had a knocking start up. I have put about 30 miles on the new engine and still have the knocking. I let it sit over night and I started it up and there was no knocking so i drove about 3 miles to the gas station and by the time I got there the knocking was back. it runs fine no other issues but why do I have this knocking with a new engine.
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I have a 2004 F150 with a 5.4L with a little over 100,000 miles. And the engine knocks like it about 1 1/2 quarts low on oil! I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I'd like to know how to get this fixed. I've actually had 2 different people ask how I got a diesel engine in a 1/2 ton truck!
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I got a horrible clunking/knocking in the front end of my pickup this morning, jerking the steering wheel like a flat tire, and after a couple miles it stopped..... bearing ???
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5.4 sound like a diesel when idling?
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