Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Knocking Noise / Running Rough And Stalling - P0340 And P0345
Oct 28, 2011
I have a 2006 f150 it was making a knocking noise after the engine oil temp reached 160* and made the noise to 1700rpms. I thought it was the cam phasers so I replaced them. The truck is still making the noise and running rough and stalling but not as bad and not as often. Before it did it all of the time. The truck is timed properly. I had a new cam sensor and tried it but that did not work. I watched vct on the scan tool and both cams are in sycn.
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I recently purchased a Ford pickup. I bought a 2004 F-150 with the 5.4L 3V engine. I have only driven it for about 300 miles so far and am having problems. The engine has 200,000 miles on it. I have read several posts on here about the cam phasers which I believe that I may have some issues with. The engine will run good when cold, on the road, etc. The engine does have a slight ticking after it warms up (cam phasers?). When I come to a stop after the engine is operating temperature, the engine will start to miss and shudder and all 4 above codes come active and are also pending (8 codes in total).
All 4 codes are logged at the same time. I have replaced both cam position sensors, both sensor ends and terminals for cam position sensors, checked wiring around rear of engine (does not appear to be rubbed through), all plugs were replaced, and all COP boots are good. Is there anything that can cause these codes that may not be the actual cam position sensors, ie. VTC, COPs, cam phasers? What pins the cam position sensors come to on the ECU (so I can ohm the entire wire harness)?
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
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I recently purchased my first Ford pickup. I bought a 2006 F-150 with the 5.4L 3V engine. I have only driven it for about 300 miles so far and am having problems. The engine has 146,000 miles on it. I have read several posts on here about the cam phasers which I believe that I may have some issues with. The engine will run well when cold, on the road, etc. The engine does have a slight ticking after it warms up (cam phasers?). When I come to a stop after the engine is operating temperature, the engine will start to miss and shudder and all 4 above codes come active and are also pending (8 codes in total).
All 4 codes are logged at the same time. I have replaced both cam position sensors, both sensor ends and terminals for cam position sensors, checked wiring around the rear of engine (does not appear to be rubbed through), all plugs were replaced, and all COP boots are good. Is there anything that can cause these codes that may not be the actual cam position sensors, ie. VTC, COPs, cam phasers? What pins the cam position sensors come on the ECU (so I can ohm the entire wire harness)?
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
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the F150 of my brother has the follow diseases:rough running ticking noises, low mileage per gallone, blue smoke out of exhaust after start, i have ordered the cam phaser, hope, that will be the reason. But today, my brother means, i have to do a test drive, because the truck has no power. and really, feels like missing of one or two cylinders. Very bad performance. Is it possible, that the reason are the phasers?
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2005 F-150 4.6L 2WD, 268,000 miles....
Recently I got a flashing 'Check Engine' light and a rough running engine (along with a tapping noise) when I was passing someone (and pulling a trailer). I retrieved codes 300, 304, & 305. I can't swear to it, but I think the tapping noise started at the same time as the coil problem.
I replaced coils #4 & #5 (later that same day) and the engine smoothed back out but the tapping noise is still hanging around. The noise speeds up at higher RPM's and doesn't go away if I shift into neutral. Oil level and pressure are fine and I only use Motorcraft 5W-20 and Motorcraft filters (and change the oil every 5K miles).
Not sure if this is relevant: I think I have bad valve guide seals (blue smoke after long idles) but no other problems that I am aware of. It sort of sounds like a lifter, but is there a good way to pin it down? Is it possible that this tapping is related to the bad coils?
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I have a 2004 Excursion with a 6.0 Bought the truck already studded, EGR deleted, and a 54V FICM. When I bought the truck it had a hot stall, no restart problem. Found the high pressure oil leaks and resealed them by replacing the #3 injector and replacing the top injector seal in the #4 .Oil pressure reads very good now and I drove the truck for a couple weeks problem free.
Truck started smoking (white to gray) and felt like it had a miss. No misfire or contribution codes. Truck failed the bubble test and I narrowed the leak down to the passenger side by removing the banjo bolt
Banjo bolt at the front of the passenger head
Found the #3 injector loose...the copper washer
Copper washer had disintegrated/melted and appeared to be stuck to the side of the injector. Scraped off easily enough, cleaned up the injector and injector cup and reinstalled the injector with new O-rings and copper washer.
Put the truck back together and still smoked the same and still felt like it had a miss. Ran KOER test and found sometimes a contribution code for #2 and sometimes #6 .
Drove the truck to work and it didn't feel down on power...mostly just smoked and rough idle...but on the way home there was a lack of power and just as I pulled into my driveway the truck stalled...wouldn't restart. FICM voltage was good, high pressure oil read over 900, IPR was holding around 40%.
Pulled the secondary fuel cap
Secondary fuel cap to run another bubble test...there was no fuel in it...completely empty. Started to think that I had a fuel feed problem. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge and drove the truck again...pressure wasn't great (45 lbs) but never dropped below 42...not even when it stalled. Pulled the cap again...dry again...yet the truck read fuel pressure.
Research showed that I was possibly pressurizing the fuel system with combustion pressure and that was possibly displacing the fuel from the fuel system. This would explain the run for a few minutes, then stall and no restart for a few minutes...I'm assuming that the pressure would bleed off and the fuel pump would start over.
Still failing the bubble test and still pointing to the passenger side. I pulled and recleaned the injector and cup...new orings
oRings and copper washer. Bubble test again...fail.
Pulled glow plug from #3 , failed bubble test still.
Pulled glow plug from #1 , failed.
Pulled #5 , failed...pulled #7 ...failed.
With no glow plugs in the passenger head I am still bubbling up to the fuel filter housing. Pulled the banjo bolt from the front of the drivers side head...no more bubbles.
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04 trailblazer, 4.2. Running rough and SES light on. Had codes pulled and showed p0340 (CMP sensor circuit malfunction) and p0300 (Multiple engine misfire detected). Replaced the CMP sensor and left negative battery cable unhooked for 20 minutes or so to clear the codes. Upon start up no more SES light and idle was slightly better. Within seconds it SES was back and it is again running poorly. Cruise control is no longer functional as well.
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My truck is idling terribly and knocks while doing so, little info is
The truck has 170k miles, I just bought it about two months ago and it was running perfect, drove it to the beach two or three times (4 hour drive) no problems whatsoever. Two weeks ago I noticed it start rocking a bit at idle ONLY when warm, check engine light came on so I ran the code and it said the Cam shaft positioning sensor was bad so I replaced both of those, then the next code I got was for the vct solenoids, replaced both of those and the problem is still persisting. It is odd to me in the fact that when its cold, it runs flawlessly, no problem accelerating/idling/maintaining speed/smoke nothing at all.
As soon as it gets warm it will still do everything flawlessly EXCEPT idle. the idle rpm is around 300-400 and it rocks and knocks terribly.. If i am stopped and I apply some throttle in park or nuetral, just enough to get the rpm up to around 800-900, its perfectly fine. no more rocking no more knocking but as soon as i let my foot off the gas it goes right back to feeling like its going to fly out from underneath the hood.
So my question is why is this? What on earth is going on here? and how do I fix it? And why is there not a manual idle control. Ford place said there was likely damage to the head and recommended a full engine replacement.
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I have a 2005 5.4l f150. 105,000 miles. Recently While on a trip I experienced rough idle and stalling at idle. I drove it home 2hrs. The ride home was challenging. Poor acceleration, rough idle. Took it to the dealer and was told I needed plugs and I was 5qts low on oil! Not sure where the oil went. It hasn't been leaking and never seemed to burn oil in the past. They did the tune up. Picked up the truck. It ran fine while cold. Upon warming up it ran rough at idle and stalled just like it did before. Took it back, they said "you need a new engine. Upon warming the oil pressure drops indicating internal engine damage". I took it to a local guy he says replacing the cam phasers might fix it. What's the consensus, should I try the cam phasers? Look for some other potential problem or trust the dealer? (They did refund me for the tune up)...
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I recently bought a 05 f150 with 5.4 3v and 195k miles needing some work. Ran great, just had a code for timing over retarded. Originally it had a cracked timing cover, so i took it off to replace and found broken guides and bad tensioners on timing. I installed new guides, chains, and tensioners, and cleaned phasers, and put back together only to find it ran terrible and had a phaser rattle. I then went in and installed phaser locks, which took care rattle but not the running issues. I can not figure it out.
ISSUES: My issues almost mirror what is said in this thread here, but this issue was never solved. [URL] ....
My issue is when started cold it starts right up, idles ok, runs ok, although a bit sluggish. Once its warm it stalls at idle, shudders when giving throttle in overdrive, and if you kick it down it will continually backfire, and slowly accelerate... it kicks down but acts like its only getting 1/8 throttle, just kind of hangs at the same rpm and slowly climbs in rpm. Sometimes it wont backfire as much, and sometimes the check engine light flashes. After it stalls at idle and you start it back up it sounds like it shudders/backfires for a split second then starts.
It is throwing many engine codes, but most are from the phaser locks. Throws code for timing over advanced on each bank (phaser locks lock them fully advanced), cam timing codes for each bank, and then a code that doesn't have to do with the timing, P2106. I am going to run some live diagnostics on it today and report back but I am fully at a loss.
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So I have an 05 Expedition (I know this is the F-150 forum, but more visibility) that is throwing a P0022 and P0345. I get these point to the cam phasers, so before I throw $450 on a phaser kit and oil pump, I want to make sure its a good fix.
I have done a lot of research on this forum and other where people have replaced their phasers and it doesn't end up fixing the issue. So I just was looking to get some tips before I endup shot gunning parts.
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I have been having quite a rough time fixing a P0345 code on my 06 F-150 w/5.4 w/85,000. This truck has gone to a Ford dealer every 5K for the oil change/checkup etc.
Long and short - P0345 Code @ approx 83,500 miles, rough idle once the engine was up to temp and it would clear if you bumped the skinny pedal.
I have replaced the following:
--Both Cam Phasers
--Both VCT Solenoids (they both had holes in the screens - see this post [URL] ....
--Passenger side Cam Position sensor (I broke it pulling it out to do phaser swap)
--Spark plugs - SP515's
Issue was still present so then I replaced:
--Complete Timing chain set (Chains,Gear, Guides and Tensioners) - Drivers (left) side tensioner collapsed.
Once all back together and running the code is still there so I finally installed a REAL electric oil pressure gauge. Turns out I only have about 15psi at hot idle and 50psi when driving etc.
I am at wits end, because at this point I would have to guess that the engine is junk... Either a bearing is shot or whatever... Do I take the 3-4 hours to drop the pan to potentially see what is going on? Or just drop some 15W40 in the engine and trade it in?
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I'm having issues with my 2004 Toyota Corolla with 118K. Every few weeks, the car will go through a phase where it will stall out, run rough and hesitate on acceleration. Oftentimes it is accompanied with the rotten egg smell coming from the catalytic converter. When I decelerate to a stop light, the car will stall. When I start it back up, I have to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in neutral to keep it from re-stalling. Once I get up to about 10-15 mph, the car will jerk and sputter, and at 40mph, the jerking motion gets worse. If the car doesn't stall it'll run rough and have the rotten egg smell. I'm assuming the smell is from unburnt gas.
I find it happens more often when I don't let the car warm up for a few minutes. I've taken it to my mechanic, and i've gone through 2 MAF sensors, cleaned the throttle body. I changed the iridium plugs at 102K and am on top of maintenance with filters, oil and such. Of course when I bring it to the mechanic, the problems don't show up, and we are kinda blind to what could be causing the issue. Also, if I park it for a day or two after the issue occurs, the problems go away. What to look for?
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My truck have 4 codes p0174 and p0171 system too lean bank 1 and bank 2, and p0345, p0349 camshaft position sensor bank 1 and bank 2.
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I have a 2007 F-150 5.4L and it started throwing codes p0012 p0022 p0345 and would knock and make popping sounds after it warmed up but I could rev it up and it would go away for the most part but would come right back when I started driving it. I have since pulled down the front cover and made sure it was in time, replaced both cam phasers, replaced both vct solenoids, and replaced both cam sensors. Same issue after doing all of that. I have searched the internet and have come up with nothing.
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Getting these codes what they mean or need to do ..to get rid of them...p0022, p0171, p0174, p0183, p0340, p0300, p0316, p2006 did timing n plugs fuel filter n gas filter getting very bad gas mileage it runs good but here a ticking in motor at idle and more as u accelerate, running rough....
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I'm having the well known situation with P0345, P0022
Replaced both phasers, replaced cam sensor, checked timing (properly aligned), assembled back still running rough and rattling, used 10w40 oil,
Complete rebuilt engine, we did head work new seals and springs, valves are straight I had it checked out twice for assurance. New pistons, new rings, new bearings, new oil pump and seals of course. If I disconnect cam sensor Bank 2 it works fine but still runs a little rough.
- Replaced one tensioner due to gasket wear.
- I was told to check on alternator ground (it's missing I know cause it got broken and I haven't replaced that ground that goes into the engine.)
- I also was told change oil to 5w20 and filter (Not FRAM), add some lucas and it should be the fix.
- Also told to disconnect the oil pressure sensor and it would fix the problem but it will throw a code for that.
- I haven't replaced the timing chains I feel they're a little loose but they haven't jumped the teeth, so I guess they're good.
- I saw in one thread to move a teeth on phaser giving me code bank 2 (moved one teeth back and then one teeth forward but it didn't work)
When I first rebuilt the engine I was having the rough iddle then I scanned it and it gave me the cam positioning sensor code P0345, then after I replaced it problem got fixed and code was gone, I was using the truck for 2 days with no issues, then the problem cam back with the two codes P0345 and P0022!
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History: Truck was running okay but acted like a coil was bad when under load. I changed out all the plugs with Motorcraft and put on Summit racing COPs.
After the plug and cop change the truck will run rough after it is warmed up. I changed back to the old COPs and it runs the same.
First I replaced the MAF sensor after finding many posts on here about it. No change.
I read a bunch of posts on oil causing the problem so I used 10-30w and nothing changed.
I searched for a vacuum leak with carb cleaner and couldn't find one. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the throttle body.
When I did the plug change I disconnected the PCM without disconnecting the battery. Would this cause this type of problem?
I think this is about all the stuff I found to try in the threads that came up through searching.
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My f-150 has an intermittent rough idle and consistently runs rough when you accelerate quickly. Vehicle is not throwing any codes?
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At around 100K miles started to get the dreaded P0340 and P0344 that occurs randomly - engine cold, engine hot, rainy, hot, cold, you get the picture. Only occurs at startup. Shutdown/Clear Code/Restart and all is well for days... otherwise the engine runs fine. Have replaced the CMP sensors, thoroughly cleaned CMP and crankshaft sensor connectors, even replaced the alternator. I would like to tone out the wiring back to the PCM connector pins. I am trying to find a pinout diagram. PCM is 7L3A-12A650-GKF.
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I have a Ford F150 XLT. I have 67000 miles on it and the other night it just started running rough out of no where near idle. Once you got over 20mph the rough running would go away. I took it to get an engine change and engine flushed but it came back. It doesnt always run rough near idle or below 20mph. The Ford dealer says my engine has only 22 psi oil pressure near hot idle and cant engage the VCT phazers and they want to replace the whole engine.
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