I just got an 08 F-150. No key fob and no power locks but it does have what appears to be an anti-theft device that blinks on the top of the dash. I would like to have keyless entry. What steps should I take?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2008 F-350. The Anti-theft light blinks rapidly and the truck will not turn over. Give it some time or take the key out of the ignition and in repeatedly and it will start. Sometimes not till the next day. I have replaced the transceiver & key. Did not fix the problem. Dealers all say: they have never seen this before. I would like to just bypass the Anti-theft system if possible. There are times I will just let it run for hours not to be stuck.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 ford f150 I changed the turn signal switch and now the theft light is on and it won't start...
View 1 RepliesDoes my truck have a keyless entry module? If so where is it?
View 9 RepliesI just bought a 2006 Texas Edition F150 with key less entry but the instructions and assigned codes did not come with it. How do I find what the code is to operate the system?
View 8 RepliesMy 2008 Ford F-350 doesn't make a sound when I try to start it. The battery is good. The steering does not lock with the key out. Is it something to do with the anti-theft system?
View 11 RepliesI was out of town for about a week. I drive a 2008 Prius with about 35k miles and no previous issues. I get back tonight and go to open the door with keyless entry. Nothing, doors wont open. I hadn't replaced the batteries in the remote since I bought it, so I figured it was just that. I use the key to manually open the doors. I then go to start the car. Nothing. No lights, no noises, literally nothing happens. I figure, perhaps I left a light on while I was away and the 12V battery is drained. It is quite the rare thing, but it has happened a few times in the past. Usually I would catch it the next day and be ok, so maybe a light was on for a week and that did it.
So at this point I assume it's just a dead 12 V battery. I ask my friend to give me a jump. We open the hood, connect up the jumper cables in this order : + Prius, + and - to his battery, then - to the Prius frame. Quite a few sparks fly, which seemed like more than what I was used to seeing, but it doesn't seem too outrageous. I try to start the car and nothing happens. My friend then tells me he accidentally hooked up the jumper cables backwards. (I know now this is bad, and may be the source of the problem but hear the rest of the story to get a complete picture of what's going on).
So we swap them on his battery and try again. I put my foot on the break and push the power button. His car is still running in the background. The power button LED then turns green, and that is it. No noise or anything else. I then (while keeping my foot on the break still), push the power button again. This time the power button LED turns orange, the parking break P LED turns on green and the check engine light on the dash turns on. Also I think the car also makes the normal humming sound we are used to hearing when it turns on. No other lights are on at this point. The main display doesn't come on, nor does the interior lights work, or anything else for that matter.
The only thing functioning from inside are those 3 lights. I turn the car off and we just figure it needs more time to charge. So we give it a few more minutes of charging and still the same thing. We notice a strange thing. We hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area of the car. Every 5 seconds or so, it sounds like a relay clicks, and then clicks off after 2 seconds or so, and this continues on. My friends engine sounds as if during those two seconds like it is sending current to my car (lower engine rpm). So it sounds as if the relay sends current somewhere for a few seconds and then no current goes to my car, 5 seconds later it sends current to my car then 2 seconds later no current, etc. This goes on continuously and we are not sure why.
We figure maybe a fuse is blown. My friend checks the fuses we think to check but can't seems to find anything wrong there. We then think maybe the power needs to be disconnected to the electronics to allow capacitors and what not to discharge. So we disconnect the lug from the jumping terminal (the one we connected the + jumper cable under the hood) for about 10 minutes. We reconnect the lug back 10 minutes later and try again. Same things with the lights and buttons pushing as before. The only difference this time is you can get these lights to turn on without having the jumper cables connected (as if some of the battery was charged).
Next we figure, maybe we just need to hook directly to the 12V battery in the "trunk". So we connect to that. Now, instead of having the relay tripping every few seconds we don't hear the relay tripping at all. And the engine rmps are operating constantly as if it is consistently drawing current (constantly lower rmp sounds). So that is different this time than when we connected to the post under the hood. So we continue running the car at high rmps for a few minutes and try again. Still the exact same thing with the lights.
Also during these tests the break pedal seems to put pressure on itself when you hit the power button a second time and the lights turn on. (This is just a detail to include, I'm not sure if there is anything useful to gain from knowing this). Anyway, I know the problem is most likely that everything was fine until my friend accidentally hooked his end of the jumper cables to his battery. But in the event that there is something else I should check.
On my new/used 2008 Escape XLT 2.3L 2WD. It flashes every two seconds, like the manual says. Lower left corner of instrument cluster.
But I don't recall the warning light flashing when I test drove it. But I did push the buttons on the keyfob and various places on the dash/instrument cluster to see what they did...
Is the anti-theft system an on/off affair? If so, how do I turn it off?
I have an 04 ranger with a 4.0 and got a code b1602 ....
View 1 RepliesWhere can I find the key pad code on an 08 escape? I don't have the card in the glove box and I don't want to pay the dealer. It should be printed on the security module box. Where to find it? On my f250 it was under the dash behind radio.
View 14 RepliesIs it possible to add the factory keyless entry without replacing the complete dash harness? I have an aftermarket unit I can add but I'd rather have oe if possible. Truck is an 2003 f250 v10.
View 1 RepliesTwo days ago, my horn began honking for no reason...as if the anti theft alarm was going off. I was able to shut it off only by putting the key in its ignition. Last night, the possession by the devil was complete and at 10:30pm, my car began to honk (same as before) incessantly... and I wasn't able to turn it off. This happened about 5 time within 30 minutes. I tried to disconnect the battery but of course, the Prius designers placed the battery in a location that makes it impossible to disconnect. Why this horn malfunction is occurring?
View 5 RepliesI have looked at many of the other treads and I can not find the answer. How do I locate the keyless entry code sticker in my 2008 F350? I just bought the truck used, I do not have the card that is delivered with the truck and I don't want to pay the Stealership to hook it up to there computer. I am looking for the RAP or the computer module as it is called in the owner's guide.
It is not behind the glove box, there is no longer a fuse access panel under the dash like the earlier SD's, the drink holder under the upfitter switches does not "pop out." Before I start with any tools, I am looking for input.
I have a 2008 Chevy HHR. On Monday both the key fobs for the keyless entry system quit working. I took both fobs to my local auto parts place where they had a tester and both seemed to work ok. What inside the car receives the signal from the remotes and activates the locking mechanism. All other electronics within the car is working. On Monday we had to have the car jump started when someone left the key in the ignition on Acc setting. Besides testing the fobs I changed the fuse for the Body Control Module (BCM).
View 1 RepliesI have prius 2007 of the Japanese make (140k miles). Yesterday, my keyless fob stopped working. I couldn't use it lock/unlock my car; however, it is starting the car just fine. I replaced the batteries on the fob but no avail. The small red light on the fob is shining like normal. There is no abnormal behavior in the car otherwise. What should I check?
View 8 RepliesMy 'new' 2004 F250 ExtCab SB w/5.4L sometimes 'drops' my keyless entry (key fob) for no apparent reason. Also, when I attempt to do the 'eight turns' of the ignition to get into program mode, it doesn't always work the first time (or second, or third, etc). Is this a common problem?
View 5 RepliesMy wife told me the other day her keyless entry quit working on our 04 touareg. The remotes still work but only at close range (I just read the sticky about this) but when you grab the handle and the door is locked it doesn't unlock any more. Also when the car is unlocked and you shut the door and press the black button on the handle the car does not lock anymore. I really liked that feature and had just showed it to her and then she tells me it quit working. I would rather not take it to the dealer if I can fix it myself. I looked in the settings and didn't see anything ...
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius with keyless entry and start fob. My battery went dead, got a jump, took it to Toyota dealer. They checked my battery and they said it is a good one just recharged for me. Then when I tried to start my car without inserting the key, it would not work. I asked the service person and he said I would have to come back and pay $110.00 for them to reprogram. Can I do this myself? It was working before my battery went dead. This happened once before but did not lose the keyless function.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Prius. The remote keyless entry just stopped working for locking and unlocking the doors. I replaced the battery and it didn't affect it's performance. The key will still start the car without inserting it into the dashboard. It feels like the unlock portion of the remote is "stiff" and does not depress. It is toyota model number B31EG.
View 2 RepliesIt's cold and of course when I need it the factory installed key fob doesn't work. I took the car to one of those fancy car accessory stores and they said my alarm was working just fine. The power locks work fine when locking the car from inside the car. Just not using my remote fob. Searching Google I found an article about a similar condition where they said the solenoid was faulty and this was common for my model.
I know little about cars but this sounds expensive. What is a solenoid and why just the car fob. What is the point of having a remote start if you can't use it in 18 degree weather.
The factory installed passive anti theft alarm keeps going off without external cause. Went to dealership to have them do the scan and all alarms point to the right rear-door. They suggest replacing the latch. This same latch was replaced 13 months ago for same problem. They will not honor the now out of date 12 month replacement warranty. They said they have checked the wiring and all looks OK. Must be the latch. I only have 30,000 miles on the vehicle and this is a rarely used door, yet I have to replace the same latch again?? Can the door ajar module be replaced separately and would it be less expensive to do so?
View 14 Replies