Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Intermittent Rattle / Knock / Running Rough And Dying At Stops
Aug 15, 2012
I am working on a customers 08 F-350 5.4l has 135k on it. came in with a severe rattle/knock, running poorly, and dying at stops. ECM gave up 8 codes relating to the timing... Found the phaser replacement steps here on FTE and followed them and replaced the VCT solenoids since i was in there. Customer reported that he replaced the cam sensors already. Ran great for a day, and the next day when I pulled into the shop it gave me a rattle. Not as violent as before but noticeable. I special ordered the wedge and followed the replacement to a 'T'. I have no performance issues and no codes.
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My brother's 5.4 has been rough idling and dying at stops and in reverse for a few weeks now. Today it threw a code and he finally had me look at it and it's a P0345 code. I was thinking cam phasers possibly, but I didn't think that would cause a code to throw. Also, all I hear about cam phasers is that it makes the truck sound like a diesel, but his when it's about to die sounds like the engine is about to drop out the bottom of the engine bay. Really rough, REALLY loud knocking, etc... What we should be looking at replacing to get this thing back into shape?
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2004 f150 fx4 w/ 5.4 .I have a code that read " system adaptive fuel to lean bank 1 " and the same for bank two. So, I got on here and did some research. Cleaned the throttle body, maf sensor, air filter, looked for vacuum leaks, changed the fuel filter and it still is running very poor at idle and it seems to be getting progressively worse...
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Car was idling and driving real rough and dying at stops. Turns out that the transmission mount was torn so I replaced it and verified that the other two motor mounts were good. Car was still running rough but on a drive with some jerky shifts (automatic) after about 20 miles all is well and I'm running as smooth as a baby's bottom with great turbo action. Cars just don't fix themselves. What could have been wrong? By the way there were no codes from the Tech ll. Using a pc of tubing I can't hear any vacuum leaks nor when spraying brake cleaner on the hose ends does the engine race.
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I have a 2008 fx4 with 75000 km it runs great but when I go on a long ride up hills or tow my trailer it acts up only when I get to my destination. the engine will run really rough and knock loudly seems only when I use reverse or sometimes park (and oil pressure in dash looks good),and if I shut ignition off and restart it no problems till I make engine work hard again.
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I just purchased my first F150, 4.6L V8, 55,600 Miles. It intermittently has a rough idle and only seems to be when the engine is hot. I've had engine and tranny mechanics look it. The spark plugs have been inspected and are within an acceptable range. The throttle body has been cleaned. There are no trouble codes of any kind. What I can check next?
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I have a 05 fx4 5.4L with 85k on it. It has started idling rough when i come to a stop light or slow down to 10 mph or less. It only does it once in a while. There doesn't seem to be any real pattern. The motor shakes until you rev it up and then it goes away.
I have cleaned the maf, put in new air filter and fuel filter. And put in a new battery. Would a coil act like that? Maybe plugs? Or a vacuum leak?
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Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
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History: Truck was running okay but acted like a coil was bad when under load. I changed out all the plugs with Motorcraft and put on Summit racing COPs.
After the plug and cop change the truck will run rough after it is warmed up. I changed back to the old COPs and it runs the same.
First I replaced the MAF sensor after finding many posts on here about it. No change.
I read a bunch of posts on oil causing the problem so I used 10-30w and nothing changed.
I searched for a vacuum leak with carb cleaner and couldn't find one. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the throttle body.
When I did the plug change I disconnected the PCM without disconnecting the battery. Would this cause this type of problem?
I think this is about all the stuff I found to try in the threads that came up through searching.
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My f-150 has an intermittent rough idle and consistently runs rough when you accelerate quickly. Vehicle is not throwing any codes?
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I have a recently purchased 2000 ford ranger 4X4 with approx. 130,000 miles on a 3.0L. When I bought the truck, it was running rough while in gear at idle, after first putting it in gear, and when coming to stops, then it quit running all together. I started by replacing plugs, wires, and ignition module. I finally got it to fire up after that, but instantly noticed the tell tale white smoke from the exhaust. Needless to say, my oil looked like chocolate milk. Rather than having the heads machined and checked, I opted to purchase a new set of cylinder heads from Dover cylinder head.
I got those on this week and she fired right up. After a few oil changes to eliminate the residual coolant from the oil passages, she still starts and runs fine, although the idle is a bit rough while in park. When I place it in gear the idle gets a little rougher. After a quick trip down the road, I'm noticing a pretty solid shudder when coming to a stop, almost like it's stuck in 2nd gear, but I can't really tell for sure. Seems to shift fine going up through the gears, but coming down is when the issue is.
I believe I'm dealing with two separate issues, one being the rough idle upon startup that doesn't seem to go away, and two being the rougher idle upon stopping. I've read everything from EGR valve, idle air control valve, low fuel pressure, and a laundry list of other things, and I just don't want to start throwing money away chasing my tail.
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I have a Ford F150 XLT. I have 67000 miles on it and the other night it just started running rough out of no where near idle. Once you got over 20mph the rough running would go away. I took it to get an engine change and engine flushed but it came back. It doesnt always run rough near idle or below 20mph. The Ford dealer says my engine has only 22 psi oil pressure near hot idle and cant engage the VCT phazers and they want to replace the whole engine.
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My 05 was running rough and misfiring quite frequently. After much deliberation, I took it in for a diagnostic hookup. The dealer said my driver side cat was clogged. Lucky for me, I was just under the warranty period(79673 miles). I have had it replaced and I can feel a noticeable difference in the way it runs. Could a clogged cat have made it run that poorly or am is it just in my head that it is running alot better?
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I just completed a successful second spark plug change, using Motorcraft SP515 plugs just like last time. After reconnecting battery and starting engine, it ran poorly throughout a short road test. Felt like it was skipping. Checked under the hood and found that the #2 fuel injector was disconnected, so I reconnected the injector.
I took another short road trip and it still ran poorly as if skipping. So, this time I disconnected the battery for several minutes while removing the #2 plug thinking I may possibly have fouled the plug by the injector not being connected. I also checked all of the other injector and coil connections. Reconnected battery and took another short trip. It still runs poorly. No codes yet.
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I have 07 sscrew with 5.4. 93,000 miles. At start up truck runs perfect. After 20-30 minutes of running motor will start to start running rough at low rpm. Diesel sound. I can rev up and motor clears up and idles fine. Should I replace VCT solenoids? Or phasers? Or both at one time??
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I just bought a 2007 F150 XLT with a Triton 5.4 with 80,000 miles on it. My problem is this, the engine seems to run ok ( a bit rough) until it gets up to running temp and I have driven about 10- 20 miles then most of the time, it starts to act up.
When I am driving it is fine, but when I slow down and come to an idle about 500rpms, it sometimes runs very rough, sounds like a diesel and shakes violently. It feels like it is doing damage. Sometimes it stalls. If I rev it back up immediately it will smooth out.
In speaking to some friends they've suggested things from plugged oil channels, (affecting the cam phasers? All the way to it needing new chains, phasers and guides. I don't want to spend a ton of money doing an improper service repair only to have the issue show up later . But there seems to be a lot of different answers to the same problem. Is the dealer going to be able to diagnose something like this fairly well? Or should I try to narrow it down a bit first?
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I changed the timing chain, phasers, tensioners, guides, and cam sensors and solenoids about 30k miles ago. Truck now has 170k miles. This past weekend engine started running so rough, it had the whole front end shaking. Threw 8 codes..1 bank..lean, bank 2 rich, timing retarded, cylinder G and F misfire, and more codes. It seems to have jumped timing pretty bad.
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the F150 of my brother has the follow diseases:rough running ticking noises, low mileage per gallone, blue smoke out of exhaust after start, i have ordered the cam phaser, hope, that will be the reason. But today, my brother means, i have to do a test drive, because the truck has no power. and really, feels like missing of one or two cylinders. Very bad performance. Is it possible, that the reason are the phasers?
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I have a 2003 Volvo C70 that I've owned since 2004. In February, I ordered struts for the front with all the trimmings, (spring seat, strut mount, bump stop, etc) from FCP Euro. The struts were Sachs 553-058, which are supposed to be as good if not better than the original struts. I installed them myself, meticulously following the instructional video FCP publishes on YouTube. Installation went very smoothly. Afterwards, I noticed a rattle/knock coming from the right front when I drove over a bump or rough area.
I took it to a local tire/brake place that I have a good bit of confidence. After driving the car, the guy says, "You gotta bad strut!" Called FCP. They sent me a new strut. I installed it and sent the other back. Sounded a LOT better—for about two weeks. Now I am hearing the sound on both sides. I took it to a very reputable Volvo mechanic, I have used since the warranty expired. He drove it, confirmed the sound was not normal. We put it on the lift and he checked everything on the front suspension and was stumped. He said there was nothing wrong with my installation, no problem with the suspension.
Okay, FCP has an unconditional satisfaction guarantee, so I could replace these with a more expensive strut for say $50 more, but is the problem with the struts? I would hate to have to do this installation again and still have the same problem.
'03 C70 Convertible LT110,000 mileswell-maintained, great-running car
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I just had my 04 5.4l engine rebuilt. Ive driven it about 500 mi and it started running rough at a stoplight. I tapped the accelerator and it started running good again but service engine light came on. I pulled the codes and they were P0022, PO345, P0340,and P0430. It has done this several times now. Everything was replaced including the phasers, except for the camshaft sensors. Could they cause this problem?
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On my way into work this morning, my 06 with the 5.4 started running very rough/shaking at low rpms. I could kick it out of overdrive and it would smooth out and seemingly be fine at higher rpms.
This worked out for a couple of miles until the truck just died on me completely. The Edge is showing po351, 352, 353......358 codes. Ignition coil Primary/Secondary circuit fault on every cylinder.
I'm thinking its unlikely that every coil failed simultaneously....computer? When I try to start the truck, it will try to hit on a cylinder or two, but will not run.
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