Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Intermittent Noise Start From Water Pump When Cruising At About 2000 RPM
Mar 8, 2014
I got a 08 F150 with a V6. It's making a very loud and annoying noise that sounds a lot like a bad steering pump, but it's coming from the water pump. I'll be cruising at about 2000 rpm and the noise will start all of a sudden. I step on the clutch and let the rpm drop to idle, and the noise tapers off as the rpm drops and then stops completely. I bring the rpm back up, and there's no noise. There is absolutely no play in the water pump bearing, no leakage from the weep hole, no overheating.
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Bought the truck 1000 miles from home, ran great, checked oil it was black and well used, coolant was milky and degas bottle had some pressure in it.
Drove 200 miles fine, 75mph lots of power, no smoke, no overheating.
While cruising felt slight stumble, and lost hot air from the heater (started blowing cold), saw temp needle move slightly (still under 1/2 mark) and pulled over. Truck stalled on the offramp, and I was not able to get it to fire. I checked oil and it was same dark black. Coolant was low, down to about 2.5 gallons.
Towed it home, oil change, coolant flush, new thermostat, rebuilt IPR, and it fired right up. Ran great, smooth. Noticed slight haze out of the exhaust at idle, and puffs of white smoke when on throttle. Checked oil and it was milky. Where to look?
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I have a 2008 Prius T6 that I took in for routine oil change at Big-O tires. They called and said water pump was leaking badly.
Pump replaced 2 hours later, but they cannot "burp" car because it won't start. The hybrid battery is apparently too low (1 purple bar) and after repeated attempts it's dead (one vertical bar on display). I've never seen this happen before... I've seen the car battery die (after leaving lights on) but the hybrid battery has never gone low.
Big-O calls and says,
(1) We've replaced pump before and never seen this happen
(2) We called Toyota and there is only one high-voltage charger in the region... we don't know where
(3) Toyota said nothing is wrong with the car, it just needs a charge
(4) Toyota said we did nothing wrong
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I had a slight noise from the waterpump area for a while, was waiting for it to fail but instead it was the clutched fan bearings. How difficult is it to repair? And could there be a recall on this, the ranger has 51,00 miles and its all easy miles. 2004 ranger 2.3 clutched fan bearing failure ...
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I recently noticed a humming noise coming from the passenger side on my Mazda Protege 2000 ES . I suspected it was the water pump, so I took the car to my mechanic. He inspected the coolant reservoir and it was empty. He also checked the noise and the area were the pump is, and told me that the water pump had to be replaced.
My dad told me that his 1994 Sentra had the water pump replaced but none of these things had to be done and that it was unnecessary. But then I thought, every car is different.
I was in shock with how much the repair would cost, so he then gave me another quote with just the timing belt and water pump replacement for $503, but this time he said that he will not give me any warranty for the repairs because of the tensioner.
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I bought my 2008 JDM Prius a couple of weeks ago, at 84,500km. After a week, it started losing engine coolant. (Great start! Hope it's not a sign of things to come...) Fortunately, covered by a 3 month Dealer Warranty - hopefully. Yet to make the claim.
Anyway, went to the local Toyota Dealer to get some of the proper Toyota SSL (Super Long Life) Coolant to top it up. Got chatting with the Service Agent about Prius Service and what HSD Adjustments are possible (not many) and showed him my symptoms.
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I own a 2004 V8 and when I have the air going I get a buzzing noise coming from the water pump or something. What is this and is it normal..
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The gist is that my 2006 Prius would not start, even with an attempted jump, and now the dealer (Keany Mesa Toyota in San Diego) says the total cost of repair will be $2400 for a new junction box relay and water pump ($800/$2400). I am stunned at the cost and am questioning the need for both jbr and wp -- but apparently, wp is leaking. About a year ago, the expensive battery was replaced, luckily under warranty , so no cost. Don't know if jbr, wp and battery failures are related, typical repairs or we just have a lemon or getting ripped off. is the water pump recall from years ago relevant here? Should we get a competing bid from a non-dealer/Prius expert (is there one in SD, a search of Prius chat found 1 recommendation but it was rather weak), or just get the damn work done and have a stiff drink to deal with it, or maybe it is time to get a new car - Prius or other (what's the chance the dealer give us a good trade-in deal?)
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Looks like my mystery growling noise at idle is the WP going bad. Not leaking but making a racket at idle.
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I've got a grinding noise coming from near my water pump. replaced the serpentine belt w no luck. it's got 212,000 miles on it so I'm guessing the water pump is going bad.
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My wife calls me yesterday and said she could hear a rattling noise from the engine area, but no other issues presented themselves. Later, I checked the engine compartment for the noise with the engine on and found that the noise was coming from the area of the engine water pump/idler pulley but i couldn't really narrow it much closer. The noise honestly sounds like bearings about to go out. I did see that behind the water pump pulley there was a small buildup of corrosion on the water pump, but no apparent leaks or wetness. The car has the original water pump and idler pulley with 140k. I plan on replacing the water pump, idler pulley and thermostat in the morning. Or is this overkill? I don't want to lose the engine nor do I want my wife to get stranded anywhere.
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My 2005 Prius sounds louder to me than normal. The car has 117,000 miles on it and is in great condition. Anyways I can hear, maybe, on the gas engine what sounds like a bad water pump or tension pulley, not sure though? I checked the water pump area and there is no visible signs of a leak or dried pink coolant. If the water pump is indeed bad what can I expect at the Toyota dealership cost wise?
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I have a Gen 6 2007 Camry SE V6 that I bought new in 10/2006.
Over the last few months, I've had an intermittent loss of coolant as evidenced by sometimes finding a small puddle of coolant on the floor in the garage.
I also often hear a noise under the hood for a few minutes upon first starting the engine cold. I've been just adding a little Official Toyota Coolant to the coolant reservoir.
I'm unable to see where the coolant is leaking from, but with the water pump problems others are having with this engine, and the noise I sometimes hear when starting the engine cold, I suspect it's the water pump.
I have 70,000+ miles on the car with the extended warranty which runs out in mid 10/2013. These symptoms led to a water pump failure?
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I have a 2004 f150 fx4 no start.fuel pump doesn't run. I have power at pump connector but the ground has high resistance.did visual on harness and connectors nothing found.I don't have access to a diagram to chase it any further.?
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2006 F150 4.2 fuel issue? I get an intermitent no start condition and no obd codes. Then I discover that it really isn't intermittent, it only occurs after I have been running the engine. It will not start for at least 5-10 minutes after I have driven a few miles and shut the engine off. So if I wait 5-10 minutes then she starts and runs just fine. I played with this in the driveway to recreate this condition so I could determine if I had a spark or fuel issue (I have spark during no start). I found that 50% of the time I could start it right back up immediately after I shut the engine off. But if I shut it off right away again, then I got the no start condition again and have to wait another 5-10 minutes.
Now with cold engine I can start the motor over and over. To fix this I read forum after forum, which led me to decide that I had a fuel pump driver problem (module) located on back axle under spare tire. I replaced this and restarted the engine many times. The problem seemed to be gone but this only lasted about 30 minutes. Then it would not start at all and still no codes. I plugged my old module back in and the truck fired right up. So I decided I needed to (flash) pcm for new part but that changes nothing. Still no start with new module and runs with old module. I also replaced relay in fuse panel.
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My daughter's boyfriend just bought a 2000 ranger with a 2.5. We just put a flexplate in it and it wouldn't start. Just turned over. Listened for the fuel pump and no noise. After a few minutes, it worked. He drove it home last night and said that it didn't want to work first try but worked with the second try. He drove it to church, 40 miles, and it sit for around two hours and wouldn't start, no matter how many tries.
We tried changing the relays around with no luck. We went and eat lunch and back to the truck with a rubber hammer. Then it starts on the second try without using the hammer. We got under it and cleaned the connections up and put some bulb grease on them. I couldn't get the one apart right on top of the pump itself, I was afraid of breaking it. It's been doing fine since we left the church before we cleaned the connections.
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I came out of work to see a fair amount of fluid on the ground under my excursion (2000 limited 7.3l 4x4). So I checked my fluids and found the coolant low and all the other fluids were good,. I had some in the excursion (not sure why I had it but it was there ). Filled it as much as I could started the truck and there it was a pretty big leak from my water pump. I was able to get one (new one lifetime warranty from an auto parts place, Ford was closed) so now on my day off instead of relaxing I will be installing a water pump. I guess it was about time. I figured since I was there I might as well flush the system. How many gallons of coolant this will take to refill the whole system?
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I just bought a 2000 Ranger 4.0, and it runs great. There is "no check engine" light and the mpg are reasonable. My temperature gauge never gets into the normal range, its always low. I believe this is related to the water pump kicking on and off constantly. There is plenty of heat coming from the vents. Do I have a bad thermostat or coolant temperature sensor?
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Plan on changing my water pump in the next day or two. Truck is a 2000 Ranger, 2.5L with 185,000+ miles. Just wondering if there are any hints/gotcha's that may not be in the manual.
Any advice on bleeding the coolant after I get it back together?
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How to change belt on water pump on my 08 V6 the hayness says there is a tensioner on the v6 well i am stumped cant find it so ....... Belt is tight I see no way to get slack in belt to change it .top pulley and pump pulley is all i see...
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I have a 2005 F-150 supercrew 4.6L with appx 127,000 miles on it. Back in December i took the family to a drive in movie and left the ignition turned to the on position. I jumped the battery and drove a few miles home. The next morning when i tried to start the truck it would not turn over. There was a buzzing noise coming from the fuel pump but not enough juice to turn the truck over. This has happened a few times in the last couple of months but will jump and run fine for weeks at a time. I've taken a 2500 mile round trip to Texas with no issues. I took a 200 mile trip this past weekend and now it will not start. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pump relay? I went to the parts store and bought a relay but it's not the same size as the one in my Haynes Manual. The part from the store is the same size as the bigger relays in the kick panel fuse box but does not match any of the plugs. According to my manual the fuel pump relay should be a smaller relay.
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