Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Intermittent Shuddering Under Mild Acceleration?
Jul 25, 2011
Over the past few months I've noticed that my truck has a very intermittent shudder under mild acceleration. If I accelerated more during the shudder it seemed to disappear until I let off the peddle a little. When it happens the truck doesn't seem to be lacking power and the engine throws no codes. It happened again today right as I had stopped at a red light. I noticed that it was shuddering at idle too. I shut the truck off at the intersection and the shudder was gone once restarted. What it may be?
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I have a 2005 F150, 5.4 triton. I bought the truck used and it came with an Edge tuner. It's lifted with 35's.
Under mild acceleration I get a psst-psst-psst-psst-psst-psst type noise. Sounds almost like air... It only happens in drive when you get on the gas and put a load on the engine but not always. It doesn't seem to happen if you mash the pedal...
I can't seem to replicate this sound in the driveway. I've never heard this sound before.
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My new to me 04 4.6 shuddered and misfired really bad last week, got couple misfire codes. I changed plugs which were really bad, like burnt out to .080, got a HEI ignition tester and got a healthy spark from all the coil packs. Drove it today and ran much better but still would shudder under acceleration when cold, wasn't as bad when warmed up but still noticeable. I thought if I got a spark with the tester that means the coil is ok? or is that not the last word in coil health. Or should I look somewhere else like injectors ? Haven't got any codes since plug change.
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I got an 08 F150 2wd. I noticed lately a mild roaring noise coming from right front wheel, but it only does it when I'm turning left. There is nothing while driving straight or during right hand turns. Only happens during left hand turning.
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2008 5.4L ...I started a thread before concerning my tranny shuddering while in OD. It did it before and after a tranny rebuild. That's when I learned of the common problem of a bad coil pack not allowing trans to lock out into OD. Yesterday I took the truck to a shop to have it scanned. I was hoping to find out which cylinder is the problem. No fault codes were found. Now the mechanic thinks its the tranny, and the tranny guy(who has had the truck twice) says its a coil pack. I can change it if I can figure out which one it is. Do I have anymore options left to find the bad coil pack, or am I left with changing them all.
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My boss drives an '08 F-150 with a 5.4. The other week he had a horrid shuddering issue, misfire, and some known transmission issues so he took it to a shop. Supposedly the heads were pulled, heli-coiled, #7 coil was replaced, new plugs, trans rebuilt...a whole laundry list of stuff was done. He comes to me with complaints of a shudder in OD in low RPM primarily and a flashing check engine light with a #7 misfire code. I popped the hood to find no coil had been replaced (mechanics around here are REAL sketchy) so I told him to change up a new coil and I would throw it on to see if that fixes the issue.
Other than that, smooth idle and decent power with no shuddering except once in a while just coming into OD in low RPM...so around 40~ish and not throttling it hard. If he gets into it and blasts through the gears it has no shudder. I said the miss could be the whole issue, starting with the plugs and known misfire coil (#7) would be a good place to start.
A quick inspection in ~10 degree snow showed me the heads do not look like they were removed. The mechanic steam cleaned the engine, so looking for smudgy prints won't work. I know on older Fords the head gaskets stick out a little past the heads...do they on these too? He is questioning if the engine was even touched, and rightfully so in my opinion. Pulling the plugs would be the next step, but I need heat and tools for that.
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I have a 2006 F150 with about 80k miles. It has a limited slip rear end. Under mild acceleration, "sometimes" there is a muted clunk at about 40-50mph. If I accelerate harder it does not happen. I cannot get it to happen at lower speeds. I cannot tell if its the transmission or rear end.
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E brakes were sticking so I took off wheels, rotors, calipers, and cleaned the E Brake caliper and lubed it. Started driving and E brakes are still sticking? What gives? Could the cable be hung up? Wonder if I should replace the E brake cables.
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I have a 2005 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 it was studdering on the highway under light load, i changed the plugs and coils it worked great for a day now working worse and giving a misfire #7, so i swapped the injectors around still misfire #7.
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2006 F150, 4.6 V8 ... My truck was running fine until one morning I was sitting in the truck giving it my customary 30 second morning warm-up and it starting running very rough and quickly threw Check Engine LED.
I hooked up my laptop and got the following error codes: (To assist with future searches, the error codes are P0302, P0303, and P0353)
It seemed to drive fairly well, but low RPM torque causes major shuddering, so I try to keep the revs up to avoid damaging other components. The first step was to replace the spark plugs. They looked to be original and I'm at 140K on the truck, so it's probably time.
I went with Bosch Platinum as the factory plugs were platinum. When replacing the plugs, I moved the coil pack from cylinder 2 to cylinder 3 to determine if the problem would move. After the plug swap, the engine did run noticeably smoother (so the plugs worked overall), but still had the low rpm shudders and the same error codes (after clearing them).
Unfortunately, the error codes still indicate cylinder 2. I guess a misfire could be related to the fuel injector as well, not firing at the right time or not a complete spray, but what else could cause this?
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 SuperCab Lariat 4x4 with 155,000 miles on it. About a week ago I replaced the from passenger hub assembly and half shaft (torn boot). When doing that, I noticed that the IWE actuator was not working right (would not compress evenly). When taking that off, there was a bunch of rust that came out of the vacuum line ports. It started moving freely after cleaning all of that out that I could (I will be replacing it soon). I assembled everything back together and all seemed OK mechanically.
I also scanned the truck and saw the code for a bad IWE solenoid so that is being replaced tonight. I also have not checked the drivers side yet.
So...now that I have done all of that, the truck started occasionally bucking/shuddering when I slow down from highway speed to about 30mph and lightly accelerate again. It does not do it every time though. There is no grinding/whining noises either. Could this be caused by the IWE system somehow? Maybe slowing losing vacuum and having one engage and the other disengaged?
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
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When I drove the car on Monday a hesitation/jerking randomly came out of no where during mild acceleration at around 2500 RPM. The next day it was doing the same thing, but one of the times it made the check engine light flash a couple times then go off. On Wednesday I put fuel injector cleaner and a new tank of gas in it to see if that worked at all, but it didn't. The problem was still occurring then the engine light came on and stayed on. So I went to see what the problem was on VCDS and here are the errors that came up. Also I should mention that on Tuesday my battery died and I had to get a jump from someone, this didn't affect the problems, but I think it has something to do with the voltage errors.
A Summary of the errors is lots of things about "low voltage b+" and "engine misfires".
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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2002 F350 7.3, MANUAL transmission ZF6.
Bought this truck used for hauling an excavator, and after fixing damn-near everything engine/turbo/and-cooling-system-related ---- it's finally seeing some use.
Just recently started hauling 12,000lb payloads. When I accelerate hard in Low gear, and then shift into 1st and accelerate hard again, I feel the whole truck shuddering. It's like a shimmy-shaking vibration all through the vehicle.
It doesn't happen in higher gears, only when the following conditions are met...
1) Starting from a dead stop
2) 12,000lb payload (heavy)
3) Accelerating hard (Low, First gear)
I would also like to add that I experienced this shuddering vibration very intensely when I put the transfer case in 4wd LOW (front manual hubs left unlocked) and towed 14,000lb up a steep hill in 1st, 2nd, and then 3rd transmission gears.
^^^ By leaving front hubs unlocked and transfer case in 4wd LOW, I was effectively lowering my final drive ratio even more for extra pulling power in 2wd hill-climbing. I don't do this often, only when absolutely necessary. ^^^
I must also add that I do have slightly taller rims/tires than OEM ford WITH the original ford gearing (3.73) so I'm more like 3.51 final drive ratio.
02 F350 7.3l ZF6
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In the past month I have had 4 instances (approx. once per week) of vehicle vibration/shuddering. The first time I thought for sure I had a flat tire and pulled over immediately and had a look at my tires. All was fine and I continued to drive with no further vibration.
My Prius v ( lowercase v for the Prius v wagon ) has 50,000 kilometers. Has had all required service at our local Toyota dealer. It has always been a pleasure to drive, smooth and quiet. Has only been on paved roads and the tires are in excellent condition.
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I have a 2012 4x4 EB CC. In 6th gear, on the highway between 1200-1700 RPM's, during a slow acceleration, it feels like it is missing or shuddering. It is most pronounced going up a hill, and/or towing something. As soon as you get above about 1700, it goes away. Rig needs to be fully warmed up (not just the engine, but tranny/drivetrain). Needless to say, this is generally from about 52-65 mph, which is most highway (not freeway) driving I do. At times it's so bad my wife says it's time to get a Chebby.
Had it in about a year ago, couldn't duplicate it. Took it in this last week. Did the TSB on the plugs, and was told that would fix it. It didn't. Took it back in; they couldn't duplicate the issue. Rotated the tires hoping that might do something. Took the head service guy for a ride, and made it happen; it was very obvious then. It seems like the tachometer should bounce or shudder a bit when it's doing it, but nothing. It's going back in on Monday to see what they can do.
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I have a 2004 Ford F-150 4x4 5.4 V8 SuperCab. Back in February I lifted my truck with 2.5in coil spacer adapters, out back add a leafs 2-3in. Now I can't say for sure it stated then, but for a while now I have an intermittent freeway vibration. Typically around 70-75mph it is at it peak when it does it. Other times it can be very smooth. The vibration is like an oscillation that you can feel in the body. Not much felt in the steering wheel. The vibration can start and stop any time and last for any amount of time, there is no common point for when it starts and stops. Right or left turns does not cause it to start or stop, sometimes it feels like big bumps will start or stop it but not all the time.
I have a rearview aftermarket camera, I took it off and mounted it several locations to view tires. The fronts are steady while at freeway speed and with the vibration.
After tie rods were changed and no play in any suspension/steering parts, the truck has been aligned several times. Tires are new and have been balanced twice. The driveshaft is new (new U-Joints, shaft and slip yoke) and is balanced, which it did improve the vibration but not perfect. The rear brakes have been inspected, no sign of overheating on the drum or the shoes. The lever is all the way back. So I don't believe it is it, although I did not fully disconnect the cabling. If it was the brakes why would it be intermittent? I had a shop replace all bearings in the rear axle, due to the pinon bearing noise. I saw the TSB's already on vibrations and none conform to my situation. The hubs have been checked, with the engine on they are unlocked.
So as I stated I can't say for sure it started after the lift but maybe due to the lift the differential pinion angle to driveshaft and to the transfer case is too high. Maybe I need some pinion shims. But I haven't heard of anything else needed to do this after a 2-3in lift. I'm getting tired of chasing this vibration.
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1.8T ... Well, initially, engine light came on with a violent shake from the engine compartment. It was really really bad. I thought the engine mount just broke off or something...
First I looked at the coil packs and the spark plugs. The spark plugs were pretty old (I got the 02 Jetta 1.8T at ~140k miles for 1k, so no surprises). Spark plug on cylinder 2 was real bad, and that was the cylinder with the misfire code. Got a new set of spark plugs first. It worked a lot and the violent shuddering mostly went away.
The engine still idled erratically jumping and dipping at idle, even with the A/C off. So I replaced the coil pack on cylinder 2 after doing the coil pack switch test... After replacing the one coil pack, the engine idles like like it's new.
When I put the car in neutral and rev the engine to the redline, it revs nicely, very smooth. When I drive the car, when I accelerate reasonably slowly with the traffic, the car drives just fine. If I keep the car in lower gears and use light throttle to accelerate, it is smooth even past the rpm range where the turbo would be spooled up.
It is only when I dip into the throttle a bit more (no where near full throttle) to try to pass a car or accelerate just a bit harder, a little past ~2200rpm ish which is when the turbo starts spooling from the sound of it, it starts shuddering badly, and check engine light comes back on. The code shows misfire in cylinder 2.
My guess is there's something off with fuel system. My non-mechanic thought process is that maybe the injector is clogged and when it's light throttle, light acceleration, it injects little fuel and its ok, but when under heavier load / throttle, it tries to inject more fuel, but can't because it's clogged...
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I have a 2010 Prius Pkg 5 with around 71xxx miles. I usually drive it like a regular car on eco mode and get around 38mpg average but recently I've changed my style of driving where I accelerate to the desired speed limit, let go of the gas, then reapply and keep the mpg meter in between the middle eco line and before the pwr band. I've been able to average 44mpg this way, which is great!
However, what I've begin to notice now is that say if I'm traveling at say around 45mph and let go of the gas and re-apply, the engine starts to shudder as if it's not getting enough gas. Why this is happening? I also need new tires (215/45/17) but that doesn't have anything to do with this. I've owned this car since 30xxx miles and haven't done anything other than put gas and change the oil at the dealerships. Could putting 87 octane gas with up to10% ethanol have any effect on this?
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I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx that randomly dings and shows me the battery light.
It usually happens when going uphill or during really hard accelerations.
It is also showing OBDII code P0621.
The car has no other issues. Always starts, always runs well.
What causes this problem? Where should I start looking? I'm thinking it's probably a bad connection somewhere.
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It started completely unexpectedly about a month ago when I was driving around 70kmh while cruising. I would get a few "jerks" of a sputter, then was able to drive a km or 2 before it did it again. I drove to a friends and he got in, and the sputtering episode was over.
Since then, I cannot simulate the way I was driving to make it sputter for any mechanic, but I have been getting sputter on and off the last month.
The one time I got in the truck and started it, put the truck in drive, and it sputtered for a few seconds. I wasnt driving at all this time. This was the only time It sputtered in a stading position.
Here are a few points to maybe, narrow down what happens.
-I am usually driving around 70-90kmh
-I am usually under no loads (not towing, hauling etc).
-My mileage seems to be getting worse.
-this was normally happening not only when the engine was warm, but when it was warm outside and I was driving it for a longer period.
-When I started driving my truck I calculated around 16mpg city. I am currently getting around 13-14. I was on the hiway for around 250 km and got 14mpg. Seems I get better mileage when puttering through the city than when I am on the highway.
I had the truck in to a dealer 2 weeks ago. They did an injector flush, new sparkies, number 5 coil, and took me for $780, saying the problem is fixed.
A few days ago, I was driving on the onramp to the highway accelerating around 90kmh and for around 4-5 seconds I was sputtering and jerking so bad I thought I was done for. The truck finally recovered and again, haven't had any episodes since.
The dealership says their electrician doesn't know what to do, and would need my truck for 4-5 days to try to see the problem for himself. I can only think, as a non-mechanic, that it is something to do with some sensor, possibly a fuel, and/or oxygen sensor.
2005 F-150
4.6
88000km
gas
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