Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Intermittent 4wd - Sometimes It Would Engage And Other Times It Wouldn't
Sep 20, 2012
For the last little while I have been having an issue with the 4wd in my 2006 F-150 with about 93k on the clock. Sometimes it would engage when I switched to 4H/4L and other times it wouldn't. A friend of mine works at a Ford dealership and said it could be the vacuum solenoid on the firewall going bad. So I bought a new one and as I removed the old one, noticed debris in one of the inlets. So I cleaned that out and neither old or new solved the problem. Then I went through ALL of the vacuum lines and found some debris in parts of them....
Cleaned them all out and still nothing. Then I got to thinking it may be the ESOF motor on the transfer case. Checked to make sure there was power to the plug, which there was. Removed the motor and turned switch, and the motor seemed to be working. Reattached the motor and the 4wd would engage/disengage without problem. Pretty much everywhere I went I would check it and it worked fine . Then all of a sudden it didn't . So I took the motor off, turned selector and it worked fine. No issues yesterday at all.
So, I am not sure if it is the motor going bad or not. Could there be a contact problem? I talked to a mechanic this morning and he told me to drive around with it in 4H for a while because more times than not it doesn't get used enough. I'm just not sure what could be going on...am I missing something?
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I have a 2004 ford F150 trition 4x4, I bought it in march, happen to notice that my head lights wouldn't shut off this afternoon after when I got home from town, after several phone calls n different ideas I resorted to removing a battery cable to keep my battery from dying, then tonight I decided to go to my dads, when I put the negative cable back in the battery I noticed it sparked. she drove fine there, got done visiting n on my way home my horn goes off n won't shut off till I stopped n turned the truck off, I drove all the way home with it blowing like crazy, I took the fuse out but my truck will not start with out the fuse!! I have to work tomorrow night n I have no clue what's going on!!
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I just got a 2004 F-150 XLT. 200k miles AT. The problem is that it won't start. The previous owner was driving it when it suddenly died and wouldn't crank over. He was told by an auto shop it neded a new engine.
I don't think it needs a new engine because it stopped while driving. I may be wrong. I put a new battery in it. When I turn the key to start it, it just makes one loud click and doesn't do anything else. The oil and coolant look fine. What may be wrong with it or how to see if the engine is bad?
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What happened is I went to get in the truck I opened the door and the gauges and blower motor came on by itself like the ignition is in the on position. I put the key in the ignition and the truck didn't do anything. No crank or anything and I did notice the anti theft light blinking really fast. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back up then the truck started but I went to shut it off and pulled the key out the ignition and truck stayed running. But also the blower in the truck and the gauges are still staying on. People keep saying it's my key but why would the stuff cut on by itself inside the truck when I just opened the door?
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This morning, while looking into why the front drive wouldn't engage, and moving the plastic cover over the battery out of the way to check for any vacuum issues, the positive battery post cable to the battery post moved. There was some fluctuation engine-wise. After I shut it off and tightened down the cable, re-started the truck, and continued looking for vacuum leaks, a few minutes later the truck died.
What's been done thus far, re-checked battery connections, checked in-line mini fuse-20amp, checked both mega fuses-power both sides of each, checked 10 amp #4 in cab fuse block, removed alternator and took for check-checked ok. Would there be something else that would trip if there was an abrupt dis-connect from the battery with the truck running?
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-15 degrees at 7:30 this morning and my F-150 4.6L started just fine. At 9:30 and -6 engine would turn over well but wouldn't start. When I shut the key off, I would hear a "vibration" from the area of the instrument panel and the speedometer needle would shake for about 15 seconds then quit. At 1:30 the truck started fine but the trip odometer had rest to 0.0. What happened and where to start looking?
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2008 5.4L triton. When I'm in the snow or mud and engage the 4 wheel drive I hit the gas and I can hear what I think it is the hub spinning but it will not turn the wheel. Hoping it is not my transfer case...
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I have a 2008 Ford Lariat F150 with 53k miles. The transmission seems like it slips at times. Here's the scenario. When I take off from a standstill and going through the gears at a normal acceleration pace, say I momentarily lighten the acceleration pace then try to resume. At that point, the transmission seems to slip momentarily, then bumps back into the pull mode. It feels like there is slack in the drivetrain until it re-engages, or like the lockup torque converter momentarily releases until the computer has time to react to the accelerator positioner calling for more. One guy said the transmission is, at that point, between two gears... either trying to decide to downshift or to upshift, but you can feel the surge in rpm momentarily until it decides ... then bump and your off and running again. If I push the O/D button, it stops doing it. What I can do? Because the dealer can't seem to get it to act up when they test drive it. It does it fairly regularly on me though.
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2004 fx4, transfer case engages, but front wheels won't engage. I assume the vacuum solenoid is stuck, any other thoughts?
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Truck shifts great from 2 to 4h to 4l and back to 2. However, at random times - any speed - usually when slowing down - I hear/feel something engage and there is usually a ratchet sound. I figured out its the 4x4 - if I switch to 4h then back to 2 quick, it stops. What the heck.
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I have a 2006 Prius with 115,000 miles that I've been having some problems with recently. Over the past 2 months the car wouldn't start 3 times. Once I jump it it runs fine for 2-3 weeks. This morning it happened again. Whole looking back on it every time seems it happen when the car doesn't run very long before I shut it off again.
Took it by dealer today and to ask them and setup a appointment. They think I have a battery going dead and he quoted it as $220 to replace. When I went to leave dealer the flashers blinked 2-3 times before it finally started. Done same thing when I got home. I also noticed when I locked the door that the red key light stayed on, instead of normal blinking. Went back out about 10 minutes later and it was blinking as normal.
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I have 2006 single cab stx and the little orange airbag guy below the speedometer has been on over a year and a half and he always flashes a code 51, but I've never worried about it.
About a month ago I started occasionally getting the 5 beeps 5 times, and now it does it more frequently but not every time. The Passenger Airbag Light above the radio works properly. It comes on when I start the truck and then goes off. When I put weight on the seat (usually my Jack Russell who only weighs 14lbs) it turns on and stays, and if the seat belt is buckled with no weight it also stays on. This is proper function correct ?
I've tried things I've read from replacing or cleaning up the crash sensor in front of the radiator, even cleaned the connections under the seats with contact cleaner, pulled fuses and none of them are blown. Are the code 51 and the beeping alarm somehow connected ?
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So our 2006 f150 fx4 has been having an issue with stiff steering... at times like it doesn't have power steering at all.
We recently had the lower ball joints on both sides replaced. Before that the upper control arm on the drivers side was also replaced.
There are days that it is better... other times not so much.
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3 months ago.. I had my fan clutch replaced, along with alternator.. a few coils.. a belt and an oil change. While installing fan clutch the shop accidentally poked a hole in radiator so they got a new one ( After Market) and replaced it. After leaving the shop, I noticed the fan clutch was not rotating smoothly, it had a considerable wobble to it, so took it back and it was replaced..new one did same things.. so it was replaced again. Truck seemed fine after the 3rd one was installed, and then after a a 3 hour drive.. i pulled over to gas station, and while truck was at idle in park.. it started to run hot. Raised hood, there was no visible coolant in holding tank on side, so after a while.. i took cap off and as I released it... coolant started to bubble back into holding tank. I then started truck up.. it was fine rest of way home.
Over next few weeks, this happened 4 times.. ac will be on, truck sitting still at red light etc.. and truck will start to run hot. So i had a new thermostat installed, and also a new water pump. Took it to a guy who runs a shop i know and also had system vacuumed. ( it was burped prior). Thought we had it fixed.. NOPE.. did it again yesterday. So truck has had new fan clutch, new thermostat, new water pump, new coolant, new radiator.. and it still only runs hot if at idle.. and it wont do it all the time.. but about once a week.. it will... and it will go over to red.. and ill shut it off and after about 10 min.. turn back on and continue on my way.. What I noticed..and this may be a key piece of info to someone who may know what is going on... it seems that the times it has ran hot.. while at idle the fan clutch was off.. and once i reved engine up to 2500-3000 rpms.. I got clutch to engage and bam !!.. truck comes back down to normal temp.. midway on gauge .. AS long as I am driving down road.. no problems.
** Also as a sidenote.. my engine does have a engine coolant temp sensor on it. Part # DY 1025 motorcraft. On some vehicles.. this part tells the fan when to turn on.. not sure if it does on mine. Originally , I took truck in bc fan clutch was staying engaged to much..meaning fan was on all the time. So.. maybe it could be the sensor ?... now all the new fan clutchs that have been put on do not come on like they are suppose to.. work right sometimes.. other times.. truck has to be at high rpms to get it to engage.. not working right all the time at low rpms.
Are their fan clutch relays ?.. I have an electric fan clutch.. This seems to me that this is a fan clutch issue.. and this is the 3rd one on the truck.. came from autozone.. it is the correct one for truck and has a warranty. Mechanic now wants to try going with a ford fan clutch by motorcraft.. 2007 F150 5.4 V8 ...
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When putting vehicle into park, every so often it will barely enage or not at all. Can hear a clanking noise when rolling back or forward. Trans position sensor?
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03 Jetta 1.8T AC is giving me fits. When the compressor comes on the AC is nice and cold. Problem is that it isn't on very much. Today was a good example. No AC for about the first 30 min drive to get an oil change (local driving). Next 40 min highway drive, AC only got cold for the last 20 minutes and then started to warm up before I got to work. Drove to auto parts place at lunch, AC cold from start to finish. No AC all the way back to work.
So, this evening I started the car with the hood up and watched. Compressor wouldn't engage. Pushed the AC button a couple of times and clutch engages. Compressor stayed on for 7 minutes and ice cold air. Clutch then disengaged and immediately both fans went to high speed for about 5 minutes with warm air out the vents.
Fans cycled back to low speed and compressor clutch engaged again for about 2 minutes this time. Fans to high speed again for 3 minutes, then compressor engaged for only a minute. Each time the compressor shut down, both fans would go to high revs. The minute they would go to low speed, the compressor clutch would engage and I'd get nice cold air..
Just had the expansion valve replaced and r134a charged by and AC shop last week. I have had the on/off AC problem for months and then could not get the compressor to engage at all for about one month. Of course, just as I was getting to the shop, it started blowing cold air.
Not sure whether I'm looking at an electrical problem or what. Just seems odd that both fans suddenly speed up and slow down and the compressor engages only on low speed.
The only other odd thing I've noticed is that cold or hot, as soon as I turn the ignition on (engine off), one fan continually starts cycling on and off. It does that continuously. I've checked the fuses on top of the battery and they all look fine. No appreciable drop in RPMs when the compressor engages. Fan control module?
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I have a 2006 XLT w/ the 5.4L engine. Manual transfer case, I'm wondering where to start looking for problems w/ the 4x4...the front wheels don't engage.
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I have a 2006 F-150 4x4 and the 4x4 quit working, it gives me a P1867 & P1891 code but my scanner don't tell me possible causes. Where to start looking?
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I have a 2007 ford f150 and the 4wd will not engage at all checked vacuum lines they all look intact wondering if it could be the IWE solenoid and is there any way to test the IWE solenoid ...
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I have a 2005 f150 and it will not engage the front hubs. It is a manual shift on the fly not electric. I have done some checking and this is what i have found so far. Pull the lever into 4H, dash light comes on, IWE's do not lock onto axle. Same for 4L. The transfer case does come in when lever is pulled into either 4H or 4L. Front end up on jack stands, engine off. Turn either wheel and axle turns with it as it should. Start engine, turn either wheel and it is free from axle, as it should be. so there is vacuum going to IWE when engine is on. Not sure what to check next. Is the vacuum solenoid on the firewall bad?? Is there something not getting activated when i pull the floor lever back?
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2008 Ford F-250 with a 5.4 Liter V-8 3-valve engine and automatic transmission.
Running down the road at 44-MPH. Pulling 5,000lbs. Engine died just after turning on the air conditioner. (Not sure this is relevant.)
Would not start. Turned the key - the starter would engage, but the engine would only turn maybe a quarter turn. Try it again engine turns. Try it again and now it only clicks. So, I
-Replaced the battery. Same symptom. Will only turn the engine 1/4 turn.
-Replaced the starter. Same symptom.
-Checked oil. Clean. No Water. No gas smell. (200 miles since last oil change)
-Checked coolant. Clean. No Oil.
-Charged the new battery and tried again. Same symptom.
-Checked and cleaned all grounds and battery cables. Same symptom.
-Checked that the transmission is shifting though the gears. Seems fine.
-Removed serpentine belt. Check all pulleys, and accessories that are driven by the belt. Everything spins quietly and freely.
-I put the truck in neutral and tried to spin the crank pulley with a 2 breaker bar. It wouldn't budge.
Am I missing something? I fear the engine is seized or hydro-locked. If hydro-locked, wouldn't I see signs in the fluids? Can the pistons be hydrolocked with fuel? Not sure what to try next.
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