Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Intermediate Steering Shaft Replaced - Hard Steering
Jun 21, 2014
Replaced the Intermediate Steering Shaft at 114,000 miles. Symptoms felt like power steering going out but no pump noise or low fluid. Steering became hard to turn and it sometimes felt like a tie rod was letting go.
Temporary resolution was to spray the two steering shaft joints with penetrating oil (PB Blaster). That freed them up pretty well. Then I ordered Dorman part 425361 (425-361) from Rock Auto. Simple enough job. Lots of good vids on YouTube.
I don't recommend spraying the steering shaft joints as preventative maintenance. Penetrating oil will get into the needle bearings and break down the bearing grease. That will cause the joints to fail over time.
Two side benefits, the truck steering is much smoother and small road bumps and potholes are much less noticeable. Feels like it was when new.
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Our 2012 Prius with now 17,000 miles in 8 months has developed a clunking noise when turning the steering wheel, especially far to the right at low speeds.
The first time the dealer identified it as a failed intermediate shaft and replaced it under warranty. Shortly after we told them it was starting to make the noise again, but they claimed they couldn't replicate the sound and anything they heard was normal 'linkage' (whatever that is). Shortly thereafter the clunking progressed so we took it in for now the third time, and they confirmed the problem, spoke with Toyota who said we must have had a bad part, and replaced it again.
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It appears the knock I heard isn't from the suspension, its from the intermediate steering shaft. You can actually feel it in the steering wheel. The vehicle is out of warranty. I still don't understand why toyota wont fix this since its a known flaw in the design of the car.
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Truck is 2002 2WD 4.7L Durango and around 164K
I am looking to replace the intermediate steering shaft as it making noise it seems they are common to this problem due to a weak U joint. The problem I have is I can track the correct part. Here is what I have research so far:
Have found this one 55351246AA but it says it will not fit.
Also found the Dorman 425-257 but it says is for 4WD but it reference to this OE part numbers: 55351208AA, 55351208AB, 55351246AA
Have try the Dodge parts website but that is even more confusing. I have already replace the ball joints, wheel bearings and inner and outer tie rods and this is the last part that needs to be replaced if I can track the correct one.
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Im working on my buddies 2005 F150 FX4. In the midst of buttoning everything up and calling it a day I happen to see fluid dripping. The OEM steel brake line had been rubbing on the steering shaft and while doing the brakes, must of busted through all of the way.
I have been to Advance and Napa at least 4 times trying to match stuff up. Nothing works from either of them.
Called Ford and talked to a parts guy who lacked general automotive knowledge and finally had to pull up there diagram to show him the correct part. He told me that part is discontinued and cannot be ordered.
It is #2264 in this diagram.
2005 Ford F-150 Front Brake Hydraulic Hose | FordParts.com
I have the factory fittings and everything to make a new line. I cannot find tube that is 5.20mm or .20". Everything I find in a roll is either 3/16 or 6mm.
The fitting is a 12mmx1.00 on the ABS brain. The caliper hose appears to be a 3/8x24. A 10mmx1.00 which is standard metric 3/16 tube nut is to big for the OEM caliper hose. A standard 3/16 flare wont seat on the caliper hose.
So it seems like what Ford did here was.... a 12mmx1.00 on a 5.20mm tube to a 3/8x24 to a caliper hose that wont seat with out 5.20mm tube.
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My Front Suspension NOW SHAKES; After Having the Prius Intermediate Shaft Replacement Recall done!!
I took my PRIUS to the dealer this past week and had the Prius Intermediate Shaft Replacement Recall done.
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I've got an '06 F150 and the steering isn't right with it. It has had a heavy feel and is almost like the power assist is only working half as good as it should. It's been like this for a couple months. I 've had all four ball joints and the steering rack replaced in the last month. It had the heavy steering feel before and after everything was replaced. It also doesn't recover itself on sharp turns, I have to turn the wheel back as I complete the turn. Could it be the power steering pump? I thought it was a mechanical device and it either worked or it didn't, maybe they get weak?
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My 2004 r32 has 160k miles, cam positioning lite wouldn't clear-outer (small) chain intermediate shaft gear just about worn completely out. Are timing specs for cams,crank, intermediate shaft available, also torque specs? Iread the 12v chain diy thread, but I doubt they are the same.
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I have a 2003 Camry XLE L4, and there is a grinding type noise when I turn the steering wheel at low to intermediate speeds, and when I go over a bump. I can also produce the noise when the car is parked and I bounce the driver's side up and down by placing my hands on the left fender. The struts, steering rack, and CV axels are all new. Also when the car is cold, turning the steering wheel produces a squeak (a different noise) from just behind the steering wheel.
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Looking for an aftermarket intermediate steering shaft for my 2001 f350 since the original has some play at the slip joint and u joints.
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The problem makes the car unsafe to drive. The quickest way to describe it is a hard pull to the left after a very linear steering feel. My perception is almost as something is holding on and then just fails and lets go and the car quite abruptly shoots left in a very unsafe manner. Here are the things I have done to remedy the situation, I replaced the struts with factory replacements 15,000 miles ago. At the same time i replaced the left and right axles, drove the car with the problem then last weekend, I replaced the upper tie rod arms, and lower tie rod ends, the sway bar bushings, and the control arms on both sides. I literally feel as though it is a darn near new front end.
Just yesterday I had 4 new Goodyear eagle tires and an alignment done and the problem became more pronounced and worst. I really like this car and want it to be a joy to drive as I know from others these little hatchbacks are a real joy on winding mountain roads.
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Bought my daughter a 325Ci about three years ago and have replaced the power steering pump 3 times so far. That's four pumps including original which went out two years ago with about 60k miles. Car has 95k miles now and changing pumps faster than tires. Dealership said original had known defect and would be replaced with newer improved model. I fail to see the improvement...
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2000 Crown Victoria, 172K I recently tore into the car's steering components because just about all of them were pretty heavily worn out (including one brand-new tie rod that already busted its boot). I got everything out fairly easily except for the pitman arm: That thing broke THREE pullers trying to yank it off the sector shaft. I finally had to get an angle grinder and cut the thing off, which I did by slicing away metal on both sides until I was able to pry it off. It looks like that despite being as careful as I possibly could be, I nicked the sector shaft in a couple of spots. One is a small spot at the bottom of the threaded part for the pitman arm nut, which is making it tough to get the nut to bite. Another is at the top where the pitman arm engages the sector shaft splines. Two questions: - Is there a really large tap-and-die set somewhere then I can use to clean up the threads? Never seen one this size before. Failing that, will using a small file be enough to deburr the threads and allow the nut to engage? - Will the nicks on the splines cause trouble with getting the new pitman arm seated properly?
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My Daughters 2004 Ranger has about 195K the power steering reservoir is full it turns to the left as it should (assisted power steering) turning to right there is no power steering (manual Rack) I am thinking the issue is most likely in the steering rack..
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I have a 2004 f 150 heritage 4.6 liter triton supercab long bed and the steering shimmies real bad. When sitting at a stop light you slightly turn the steering wheel and its like the wheel fires back the opposite way when turning at highway speeds you cant hold the wheel from shaking its scary...
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I have a 04 stx f-150 4x4, had the front springs changed, shocks and struts! now when I am driving at either 43mph or 53 mph, I get vibration in steering wheel.....
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I have an 06 4x4 lariat 4dr. 5.4L.... bought it used about 6 months ago with 107 K on it, and put a few thousand miles on it. haven't really had any problems with it, but I have noticed that when I break about 45 mph, my steering wheel gets shaky, I've tried reading on some forums but haven't really found anything very useful, and I alot of the information is on the '04 models. And honestly I"m just not really sure what to make of it all, and I don't wanna start replacing random stuff just taking a guess. I live in south texas at the moment and the air here it's salty, so I'm hoping that something just corroded and is warn...My guess is a front bearing.
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I have had some play in the steering wheel of my '04 F150 screw 4x4 for a long time. Today, I replaced the outer tie rod ends in order to get rid of a squeak. While I was down there, I tried to move the inner tie rods in and out and didn't detected any movement so I figured they were still good.
Now that the new outer tie rods are in place, my squeak is much better but I am still noticing play in the steering wheel. Assuming that I checked the inner tie rods correctly and that they are indeed ok, and assuming my new outer tie rod ends are good, why would I have any play at all in the steering wheel?
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I have a 2004 f150 heritage Super Cab Xlt with the 4.6. It has a fabtech 6' suspension lift on it. And 315/75/16 BFG A/T KO tires. I replaced inner and outer tire rod ends. Steering Box and idler arm. Replaced rotors and brake calipers on the front and brakes. Replaced rear rotors and rear brake calipers.
Now to the point. Lets say the road steers to the left. I have to steer the wheel to the right ad left in order to stay within means of the lane and stay straight. If I am driving on a straight road I always have to have my steering wheel held to the right in order to stay straight. So lets say the road starts turning left. I have to keep the steering wheel held to the right then slightly left.
But I can't just steer the wheel left or right. It seems that it has to be a special way of steering the truck. I have had tires rebalanced and many shops have said the truck is within alignment specs. It always seems that the steering wheel has to have a offset. Could something else be wrong with the truck ? frame ? u-joints ? Steering wheel column ?
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Yesterday my 5 year old daughter was "driving" my 07 S-cab 4x4 while I was installing steps on the rocker panels. (yes the engine was off and E-brake on). Anyways as she was steering rapidly from R-to L ther is a noticeable steel-to-steel banging coming from the box area. I could feel it too in the steering.
I started the engine, and steer R-to L, and no more clunk. Shut it down and there it is again. It goes down the road very nicely with no issues. Is this a "normal" situation, A "clunk,, clunk, clunk" when steering back and forth with the engine off, or is something need attention?
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I'm doing PPE headers right now but stuck with steering shaft I removed 1 bolt in the car and 2 in the engine bay on the shaft.... but there's just not enough give to slide the shaft out. I need a crash course on this thing pictures photos or whatever would be nice.
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