Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Interior Lights Come On While Driving
Jun 20, 2010
When I'm driving the interior lights will come on all by themselves. This also happens when I park, day or night. Actually had to get a jump when I left the truck for 5 days at the airport.
Quick fix...mild tap to either the dimmer/light switch panel or just to the right of the panel. Goes out for a while and then back.
Extended Fixes:
- Cleaned contacts on old dimmer and light switch...no good
- Replaced dimmer/light switch panel...no good
- Cleaned and sprayed WD-40 on all latches...nope
- Looking for "loose" wiring...nope
This is a 2005 Lariat w/autolamps etc. Problem existed before I met a deer at 60 MPH and had a nice new set of fenders and front grill installed. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but cannot resolve the problem. The door ajar light stays off, so this leads me to believe it is not a door switch.
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L V8 4X4 Supercab. I developed a problem with my interior lights where they will come on randomly while I was driving. After many hours spent searching for an answer online, I found this thread:
[URL] ....
What I picked up from that thread that was useful was that if I tapped next to the dimmer/light switch panel my lights would go off.
Since all of the interior lights go through the instrument cluster I figured I would start there but it proved to be fruitless.
The next step I took was to look at the wiring diagram for the interior lights and try to figure it out there. They proved useful in that I was able to figure out that it wasn't an issue with a relay or fuse and led to me looking for the Green/Orange circuit, which I discovered I don't have but pointed me towards the Black/Blue circuit.
I thought I might have a wire loose inside the light switch so I started to remove it and take it apart to hopefully find something. To remove the light switch place a flathead screwdriver under the panel and pop it loose.
From there you can get a finger underneath and pull it out completely. Next you'll want to remove the wires by pressing on the clips pictured below
There are three screws you need to remove to get to the circuit boards underneath...
Removing the actual light switch was tricky because there are two tabs pictured below and you have to finagle the switch out...
Once you have that removed you'll be able to see two clips at the very bottom of the switch enclosure. This step was very hard and I had to get support. The two clips at the bottom have to be pushed and you have to pull the circuit board at the same time. I chose to have my assistant push from the bottom while I pushed the pins out of the way.
Once you have the circuit board out you can remove the dimmer by pushing on these four tabs
Once you have this removed you will see a circuit board with some gel on it. My circuit board had an excessive amount that was causing the electric current to jump and by-pass the Dome Defeat. After removing some of the gel I reassembled and put back in. I did it earlier today and only time will tell if I truly did fix it but based off the amount of gel and my inability to find another cause I am hopeful that this was a fix. The dimmer appeared to work better immediately afterwards.
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I have a 2008 Ford F-150 xlt with stock instrument cluster. I need a new instrument cluster due to my interior lights coming on while driving. I would like to make it look better and not go stock. Id like to have digital shift screen and good looking LED's. What all are my options?
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Looking for a process to have the interior lights 'shut off' with the doors open?
I do a lot of camping, and having the doors open with the music playing is a real nice feature of my truck (2007 F-150 Super Crew 4X4), vut the fact that every internal light stays on just beats the heck out of the battery.
I would love to know if there is something that can be done to have them 'dim off' after the doors have stayed open for a certain amount of time.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 SuperCrew Lariat (with Sunroof) that the Front Interior Dome Lights are not working in. I mention the Sunroof because there is a switch to operate the sunroof in the same panel as the front dome lights. The Sunroof switch works just fine though.
However, the back dome light does work. I would've thought these were on the same line but my thinking is probably wrong. So far I've pulled the front panel where the dome lights are located and checked the bulbs. The filaments are not broken at all and the bulbs seem to be good. I then went hunting for the Fuse box and looked through the user manual to see which fuse corresponds to those front lights. However, I've been unable to determine which fuse it is.
So I guess the questions I have are:
1.) Why the front dome lights would NOT be working and the rear dome lights are? Are these not on the same line?
2.) Which fuse corresponds to the front dome lights?
3.) What relay corresponds to the front dome lights?
4.) Do I need to disconnect the battery before messing with any of these fuses or relays?
Troubleshooting steps at this point?
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2004 jetta, interior lights & door open light on dashboard intermittently come on and off while driving.
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I just acquired a 2007 explorer and have a little issue where the interior lights occasionally come on while driving. Did a little investigation and found that when I wiggle the ignition key the lights come on. Also noticed that when vehicle is shut off and door is open, I can wiggle the key and the "key in ignition" chime is intermittent. I'm guessing I need a new ignition switch and have a few questions regarding replacement of the switch.
I'm assuming the ignition keys have the chip in them and was wondering if I will have to reprogram keys or the switch or whatever...And if reprogramming is necessary, is it something that I can do myself?? Also, it looks as if I can replace the switch separate of the ignition lock cylinder. Will just replacing the switch fix my problem or do I need to replace the lock cylinder tumbler assembly as well??
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My 2008 R32 interior lights do not come on when I open the drivers side door, works OK from passenger door. I can not find the door switch. I've searched all around the door and the door frame. No luck. Also the doors will not lock, and using the key to roll up or down the windows or sunroof don't work.
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I picked up my V8 yesterday. Overall great car. I spent several hours at the dealer working out little things and doing some shakedown driving. So I finally am ready to pull the trigger. I pay, they hand me the keys, and I am off. It's now dark, the dealership is closing, and I have to drive home. I get in the car and the floor lights in the front (where your feet are) and in the floor of the rear cargo area won't go off. I play with every control in the car and cant get them off. The overhead lights turn off - no problem. Then I get home and turn the car off. They still wont go off. I have to pull the fuse to get them off so it wont run the battery down. Then I notice that the red instrument panel will not go off either - end up pulling that fuse too.
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Looking for a wiring diagram for the interior lights? 2004 EB.
Gotta chase down the problem, no interior lights coming on, switch or gem...
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My SO has a Hyundai Santa Fe - 03 2.4L with the 4 speed auto with 130500 miles.
While driving tonight, the interior lights started blinking. Which was kind of odd. Apparently when this happens, the tail lights (but not headlights) go out.
I did a quick bit of research on it and apparently there is a "bus" that goes bad and causes this. What is a "bus"? And how do I replace it? Is it something like a fuse that is getting corroded?
Also ... I think there may be something up with the a/c. When I turn on the A/C or defroster (any setting that activates the compressor), I smell a burning rubber smell in the dash. I'm not seeing the belt slip on the compressor and not hearing any slippage but there is a definite burning rubber smell. When the HVAC is on something that does not activate the AC Compressor (top vent) we do not get the smell.
Lastly, there are some transmission issues it seems. There is a shift flare between the 2-3 shift and the 3-OD shift sometimes is very firm/abrupt ... it appears to be locking the torque converter during a very hard shift.
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I have not driven the F in awhile and had to jump start the car due to dead battery. Afterwards I noticed that whenever I was driving the interior and exterior lights would flash every couple of seconds and the power steering light was on. Do I need to take it to the shop? Drive it around so the batter would juice up more?
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Are there any common trim peices etc that are known to come loose and cause a rattle in our trucks? My truck has always rode fairly quiet/tight, recently with the rough roads & stiffer tires plus cold weather I have noticed alot of little rattles which are hard to narrow down sometimes. They drive me insane. So far I have noticed the rear RH suicide door was one culprit which I quietened by a couple wraps of tape around the striker, but I can hear more from possibly under the dash & rear of cab.
Also I swore that my box was coming lose, if I went over railroad tracks I could hear a hollow rattling noise that seemed to be coming from back there, I looked and all the mounts are fine & seem quite solid, but when an 05 similar to mine passed me on the street one day and I noticed his box shaking alot more than the average truck, then looked at my own in the sideview mirror and it appeared to be bouncing around more than I think it should. I am kind of OCD about rattles & squeaks and cant sleep until I shut them up
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2004 Crewcab Lariat longbed 4wd. My interior and cargo lights stay on. I got in the other day and opened the truck to start it and when I closed the door the lights stayed on. I did a search and tried the following:
Lubed all the doors
Pulled door switches apart to verify operation
Disconnected the remote keyless entry module
Disconnected the instrument panel
Disconnected light switch
I found the following:
When I alarm the factory alarm with remote the alarm chirps once with doors closed, twice with them open. Looks like door switches are working.
Disconnected light switch. Lights stayed on
Disconnected Keyless entry module, lights stayed on
If I disconnect the instrument panel I can hear a relay switch. That tells me the relay isn't stuck. The lights do turn off at this point and will go off when I pull the fuse for the instrument panel.
Door switches all seem to work fine as eveidenced by factory alarm operation and the door opening indicator turns off.
Not sure where else to look and my Google Fu is not very strong today as I could not find anything like this issue.Is there another module that could be bad?
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I had a loose bulb in my overhead interior light I tightened the bulb and now the gauges quit working the sunroof, rear window, air compressor, windows, radio and airbag warning flashes?? I checked the appropriate fuses in the panel fuses and the 30 amp breaker all good??
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The dome lights on my 2008 RX400H wont turn off when doors are closed. Door ajar light goes out but dome lights stay on.
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We just purchased a 2007 Prius. Above the driver seat and passenger seat are two interior lights in the ceiling. Our manual only discusses the main interior light in the middle. The separate lights have on and off switches but neither work.how to turn these lights on??
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Today, I tried to change the bulb on the front interior ambient-light, but I managed to drop the bulb into the housing ; I tried to unmount the whoole unit, but without luck. How I can unmount this thing witout broke-it?
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Okay, so the door ajar light came on the other day and the interior lights would not turn off when I turned off the car. This is a 2004 Century. I ended up removing the fuse so that I can be assured that the battery wouldn't drain. The problem is in either the driver or left passenger door. I couldn't see any door switches like I've seen on other vehicles so I'm wondering if this is a latch issue or an electrical issue.
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I have a 2006 Lexus GX 470, that i drove through a street with about 2.5ft of water the other day (there was no other option due to an crazy high tide coming up in downtown Charleston, SC).
This happened about a month ago. Afterwards I made it 500 yards and the car just powered off. While I was calling the tow truck (within 20 minutes), I was able to get it to crank back up. I drove it the next three weeks through Christmas without any issues. On Christmas I parked it and we drove our other car out of town. When I got back, it cranked for maybe 15 seconds, then died, and hasn't cranked since.
When I say it won't crank, all of the interior power and lights come on, but when you turn the key nothing happens. No clicking or anything such as a bad starter would cause.
I have taken it to the repair shop and they can't find the issue, and they tell me their scanner won't talk to my ignition, fuel injection, and I think emissions computer. They can talk to the ABS computer.
Read more: [URL] .....
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe with 327,000+ miles on it (the speedometer doesn't work any longer - another problem).
Last July/Aug (2012) I had the driver window fixed (didn't go up or down) after it was fixed all the interior lights stopped working...dome light, map lights...they will not work automatically by opening a door nor manually. Even the rear hatch light will not turn on. Its not the fuse.
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