Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Interior / Box Hollow Rattling Noise
Feb 3, 2011
Are there any common trim peices etc that are known to come loose and cause a rattle in our trucks? My truck has always rode fairly quiet/tight, recently with the rough roads & stiffer tires plus cold weather I have noticed alot of little rattles which are hard to narrow down sometimes. They drive me insane. So far I have noticed the rear RH suicide door was one culprit which I quietened by a couple wraps of tape around the striker, but I can hear more from possibly under the dash & rear of cab.
Also I swore that my box was coming lose, if I went over railroad tracks I could hear a hollow rattling noise that seemed to be coming from back there, I looked and all the mounts are fine & seem quite solid, but when an 05 similar to mine passed me on the street one day and I noticed his box shaking alot more than the average truck, then looked at my own in the sideview mirror and it appeared to be bouncing around more than I think it should. I am kind of OCD about rattles & squeaks and cant sleep until I shut them up
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My 2008 ex Honda Civic. Engine: (140hp 1.8-Liter SOHC 16-Valve i-VTEC 4-Cylinder 5-Speed Automatic with Grade Logic Control).
In the mornings, when I start it, it shakes & makes a hollow shaking noise in the engine compartment. This noise is normally more noticeable after having it parked overnight or not driving it for a few hours. The shaking noise is more pronounced after being parked overnight, starting it, & also putting it in reverse. After driving it for 30min, the noise & shaking stops.
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I have a 2004 ford f150 5.4l v8 triton lariat and while at idle it has a ticking noise like this video
YouTube...
However I also have a rattling noise when decelerating at around 2000 rpms that sounds like a loose chain in a box. Not sure if its VCT sensor or cam phasers ...
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I have a 2007 f-150 fx4 supercab with the 5.4, it has about 37,500 miles on it. Yesterday I hooked up my trailer with no more than 800lbs of lawn mowers and as soon as I was on my way I heard a terrible rattling noise coming from the truck or the trailer. I unhooked the trailer and drove up and down the driveway and heard no noise, hooked the trailer back up and right away the rattle came back. At this point I hooked up the trailer to my dad's truck hoping it was the trailer and I drove it around the neighborhood hoping to hear the noise. No noise. So I hooked back up to my truck to drive home and the noise came right back and was even worse.
The noise was a rattling noise which I would say sounded like bb's rattling around in something, which had/has my thinking catalytic converter but no check engine light or anything has popped up. Also the noise doesn't happen unless the truck is hooked up to my little trailer with weight that I consider insignificant. So my question is could it be the catalytic converter and the the light load causes it and it will eventually occur all the time, or could it be something else that I'm not considering. I'm going to try to get it into a local mechanic but with it being the end of the month he's probably swamped with inspections. I don't want to drive it until I know what it is because I don't want to do damage to the truck.
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My 2004 F-150 5.4 has a rattling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine when at operating temperature. The cam phasers and all related parts have been replaced. The reason I was prompted to change the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners was due to the engine stopping on me as I returned home from an errand. The engine had already shown signs of needing the phasers replaced.
The engine runs very smooth while warming up. Vehicle lacks power and has a rough idle after warm. Took the truck to a local mechanic, in the process of making a diagnosis, he performed a compression test. Cylinder 3 psi was much lower than the other 7 cylinders, the mechanic recommended replacing the engine (possible bent valve).
I have a Haynes manual, have searched youtube and checked this and similar forums, I have yet to find instructions on the removal of the head from the block.
(2004 Ford F-150 5.4 3v)....
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2005 F150 Lariat package with 63,000 miles. Ok... thought I had a cat crawl up in thew engine to stay warm...but alas no cat found. Got off of work and headed home, clicking/rattling noise from the front passenger side dash, then a whirring noise followed shortly there after by a dull thud (hence the cat scenario). Happened twice on the way home (~15miles) ...
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Just bought a new to me 2009 prius with 50k. Love the car thus far, and am learning more and more about the hybrid stuff.
One question i do have, that the dealer didnt explain well, was the planetary transmission. specifically the noises.
Its pretty quiet, but from a cold start, and into reverse, its the really odd noise. It sounds kind of like im backing a front plastic lower air damn off the curb. Like the hard, hollow plastic ka-klunk. it never does it from park to drive, or after a while of driving from park to reverse.
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I have a 2008 RX350. When i shut off the engine and pull the key out i hear a constant clicking sound. I dont really know where its coming from but i can kind of pin point it maybe to the windows or door i'm not too sure. I also notice the interior light flickering to the same pattern as the clicking noise.
Second problem - in the middle of the night the alarm goes off! Its the alarm without the horn noise. For some reason i cant switch it off with the fob key. No matter what i do i cant switch it off. So it goes on for about 20 seconds and stops. I just leave the car unlocked after that and it doesnt come back. The alarm noise is coming from the boot....
Third problem Now the navigation screen flickers. Blacks out then the lexus emblem appears then switches back on itself.
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First issue started a few weeks ago. When turning left at a speed > 20mph or when turning wheel quickly I get a rattling noise, which is more prominent with the driver window down, so it sounds like it comes from the driver side front wheel, but not quite sure. It is fairly loud as I have had pedestrians look at my car when turning because they can hear the rattle.
Second issue started this morning but has persisted every time since. When the car is cooling down, we get that whirring noise, which I presume is thr coolant pump. That noise also happens now when I enter the car, and it is accompanied by a knocking noise as if somebody is hitting the outside of the car repeatedly. This is quite unnerving as it sounds like something is hitting the bodywork of the car. It stops immediately when the normal whirring stops.
I had the steering and water pump recall done in november last year, could this be related to that? Forgot ti add the car has done 49000miles....
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I'm the proud owner of a 2008 RX350 with low mileage (40,000 miles - US model). I purchased it a year ago and I haven't had any mechanical problems. However it's been 3 months that I have this rattle from the rear, especially when driving over uneven pavement.
I had the vehicle checked by a local mechanic but he couldn't find any loose part at the exception of the spare tire plastic cover underneath that looked a bit flimsy but he couldn't tell for sure... I even did an oil change at a Lexus dealership and they didn't find anything when they hoisted the car but they didn't look hard either....
I've disconnected the tonneau cover and put the release latches, for the tonneau, in the lock position (towards the front of the vehicle). That didn't solve the problem. Lastly I removed my plate cover and still didn't resolve it.
Anyway, the rattle seems to come from somewhere underneath, around the trunk area and is loud when you hit bump or drive on uneven road and it's driving me crazy!
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So I picked up my Accent on Tuesday with only 8kms on it and I love it! However I have one problem, I was driving around today and kept on hearing a rattling noise coming from the front right passenger side. I tried to lower/raise the window but I think it may be around the speaker.
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My 2013 Ford Escape SEL makes a metallic, hollow POP noise upon a cold start. It sounds like it comes from underneath the driver's side - a little towards the back end. The noise is very brief - half a second and then it's gone. It will do this relatively consistently both when it's cold and when it's hot outside, but usually only after the vehicle has been turned off for at least 3 hours or so.
My dealership can't get it to make the noise and they've had it for almost a week now. Most days the car will make this noise with me in the morning, for my lunch break and again when I leave work. My luck they have it 5 days and the noise up and leaves.
In the meantime, I'm driving a 2013 Ford Escape SEL 'loaner' and the loaner car made the exact same noise!
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L V8 4X4 Supercab. I developed a problem with my interior lights where they will come on randomly while I was driving. After many hours spent searching for an answer online, I found this thread:
[URL] ....
What I picked up from that thread that was useful was that if I tapped next to the dimmer/light switch panel my lights would go off.
Since all of the interior lights go through the instrument cluster I figured I would start there but it proved to be fruitless.
The next step I took was to look at the wiring diagram for the interior lights and try to figure it out there. They proved useful in that I was able to figure out that it wasn't an issue with a relay or fuse and led to me looking for the Green/Orange circuit, which I discovered I don't have but pointed me towards the Black/Blue circuit.
I thought I might have a wire loose inside the light switch so I started to remove it and take it apart to hopefully find something. To remove the light switch place a flathead screwdriver under the panel and pop it loose.
From there you can get a finger underneath and pull it out completely. Next you'll want to remove the wires by pressing on the clips pictured below
There are three screws you need to remove to get to the circuit boards underneath...
Removing the actual light switch was tricky because there are two tabs pictured below and you have to finagle the switch out...
Once you have that removed you'll be able to see two clips at the very bottom of the switch enclosure. This step was very hard and I had to get support. The two clips at the bottom have to be pushed and you have to pull the circuit board at the same time. I chose to have my assistant push from the bottom while I pushed the pins out of the way.
Once you have the circuit board out you can remove the dimmer by pushing on these four tabs
Once you have this removed you will see a circuit board with some gel on it. My circuit board had an excessive amount that was causing the electric current to jump and by-pass the Dome Defeat. After removing some of the gel I reassembled and put back in. I did it earlier today and only time will tell if I truly did fix it but based off the amount of gel and my inability to find another cause I am hopeful that this was a fix. The dimmer appeared to work better immediately afterwards.
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When I'm driving the interior lights will come on all by themselves. This also happens when I park, day or night. Actually had to get a jump when I left the truck for 5 days at the airport.
Quick fix...mild tap to either the dimmer/light switch panel or just to the right of the panel. Goes out for a while and then back.
Extended Fixes:
- Cleaned contacts on old dimmer and light switch...no good
- Replaced dimmer/light switch panel...no good
- Cleaned and sprayed WD-40 on all latches...nope
- Looking for "loose" wiring...nope
This is a 2005 Lariat w/autolamps etc. Problem existed before I met a deer at 60 MPH and had a nice new set of fenders and front grill installed. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but cannot resolve the problem. The door ajar light stays off, so this leads me to believe it is not a door switch.
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Looking for a process to have the interior lights 'shut off' with the doors open?
I do a lot of camping, and having the doors open with the music playing is a real nice feature of my truck (2007 F-150 Super Crew 4X4), vut the fact that every internal light stays on just beats the heck out of the battery.
I would love to know if there is something that can be done to have them 'dim off' after the doors have stayed open for a certain amount of time.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 SuperCrew Lariat (with Sunroof) that the Front Interior Dome Lights are not working in. I mention the Sunroof because there is a switch to operate the sunroof in the same panel as the front dome lights. The Sunroof switch works just fine though.
However, the back dome light does work. I would've thought these were on the same line but my thinking is probably wrong. So far I've pulled the front panel where the dome lights are located and checked the bulbs. The filaments are not broken at all and the bulbs seem to be good. I then went hunting for the Fuse box and looked through the user manual to see which fuse corresponds to those front lights. However, I've been unable to determine which fuse it is.
So I guess the questions I have are:
1.) Why the front dome lights would NOT be working and the rear dome lights are? Are these not on the same line?
2.) Which fuse corresponds to the front dome lights?
3.) What relay corresponds to the front dome lights?
4.) Do I need to disconnect the battery before messing with any of these fuses or relays?
Troubleshooting steps at this point?
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Having issue with moon roof ratling? Mine does when I have the moon roof open all the way. It is kind of irritating.
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Hard to describe sound, but it only happens under load. It happens at any speed, but more predominently at higher speeds. When I lift off the gas it stops. I can keep it going up hill since I'm maintaining speed rather than accelerating over the limit. The other day I heard another F150 beside me making the same noise going up a hill.
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I had a loose bulb in my overhead interior light I tightened the bulb and now the gauges quit working the sunroof, rear window, air compressor, windows, radio and airbag warning flashes?? I checked the appropriate fuses in the panel fuses and the 30 amp breaker all good??
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I have a 2006 F150 5.4 3v rattling and shaking excessively. I have installed two new cam phasers, two vct solinoids, two vct housings, flushed oil and installed motor craft oil and filter. This never happens if bank two vct is unplugged or in open loop. Monitioring vct's on ids only bank two is erratic. Also when I had vct housing off I blew regulated air through oil passage seems free.
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I have noticed for some time, over bumps that the cabin makes lots of noise. It doesn't sound solid, it almost gives a hollow noise when going over a bump or pot hole in the road. I hate that it doesn't sound solid. The noise resonates from the rear. Almost like a plunk, plunk noise.
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