Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: How To Replace U-Joints
Mar 2, 2008
2004 F150 Supercrew 4x4 Right now I have a broken roller cup on my rear U-joint. So I bought a new U-joint from the Ford dealer. When I pulled the driveshaft out I couldn't tell how to replace the U-joint. There are no E-clips to remove from the yoke/driveshaft ears. There are solid round "O" shaped clips that looked to be pressed in or something.
I've talked to the Ford dealer as well as a few other local mechanics and they haven't seen this setup before. So I didn't get any assistance there. It seems like my only option is to replace the whole pinion yoke, driveshaft, and U-joint together. Which sucks because this is just a frikkin' U-joint that needs replaced. That's it. I guess what I'm asking is, is there a way to work on this non-serviceable U-joint?
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I have a 2007 f-150 4X4 with bad upper ball joints, should I replace the lowers also or just the uppers and how do I check lowers?
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On my 2004 s-cab the steering is starting go 'notchy'?
I have considered, tight upper or lower ball joints, pump, rack or even a sticking rear diff, but not carried out any checks yet except oil level
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Tried searching, but I couldn't find any good write-ups on how to replace a front CV axle. The boot on mine is ripped and spraying grease so I figure I should just replace the whole axle while I'm in there. In a previous post, I also found out that replacing the CV axle (joint?) is easier than replacing just the boot.
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156,000 miles, I've been pulling a 21ft bass boat in the summer for years with no issues. Now on hot days (over 78 degrees) it is over heating. Can't use AC and need to slow down to 60 mph in-order to cool her down. Never have flushed the radiator but I'm wondering if getting it flushed is a waste of time and if I should just proceed to replacing the radiator? For a couple of years now I can hear a roaring sound (like a jet engine) on really hot days, when I start out driving. Could this be a cooling fan? Seems like the power is restricted during these times. Really need to increase throttle to get going?
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Alright, I, like alot of people with these trucks have the rust under their fuel doors from what ive seen and heard is the fuel neck filler plastic vibrating and rubbing, wearing throught the paint allowing water and fuel drips in and getting under the paint.
Well i keep touching up my spots but i have to do it twice a year and it just keeps getting worse, so i decided to go a bit further and clean it, touch it up, and protect it. This is a low $ job. Its not perfect but it is definately better than rust and from a couple feet back you can barely notice it, and hopefully this will be the last time i have to touch it up.
[URL] .....
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Just bought a 2007 supercab with the 5.4 in nice shape, but have an intermittent brake light on the dash. (No ABS, just the brake light.) Our mech. diagnosed a bad Brake Fluid Level switch. I can get a new sensor. I'd like to try and replace this myself and save a lot of money if it's not too difficult.
I'm looking for some clear step-by-step directions on doing this, and have a couple of questions:
Do I need to disconnect the battery first?
Do I need to empty the brake fluid reservoir? (Looks like the sensor is in the bottom of the reservoir, if I take it out without draining res, will I have a mess?)
When looking up the sensor online, I also saw the plug/connector for sale, should I replace that as well?
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I have a 2006 F-15 XLT with a bed cover, tailgate cover and separate tailgate cap. The cap has cheap plastic clips that went into the tailgate but have broken off...this is a problem as I have a tonneau cover that is a tight fit. Every time I close the tailgate with the cover on, I have to jam the cap down and hope it is far enough by the time the tailgate closes.
2 Questions:
1) Where can I buy a reasonable replacement?
2) Is there a good solution to just repair? I tried JB Weld, but that did not seem to hold (surprisingly)
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I have a leak between the metal and the plastic of my water crossover.
Do I need to remove the manifold to replace the gaskets for the crossover and if so looking for a good thread showing how.
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In the last 50 starts it has happened twice: When I try to start the truck, all dash lights and power come on but there is no sound or cranking from the engine. If I cycle the key back and forth a half a dozen times it will then crank and start. Next time I will try and listen to hear if the solenoid is clicking.
I've read posts about it being the anti-theft, ignition switch, stater relay, ppm relay, etc....
I could replace the relays to rule them out, but my gut is telling me that's not it? Would there be a code from something like this?
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How to replace the "light switch" on an 08 Prius. The driver side headlight and taillight will come on when you first turn on the lights and but will turn off in just a few seconds. Sometimes they will stay on for a while and/or go off and on. I was told it was the "light switch".
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Odd thing happened. All of a sudden the factory emblem on my 2008 tailgate totally lost all of its blue and is now pure chrome. Happened just like that.
Anyway, is it screwed on and do I need to pull the panel on the tailgate to remove it? Here's the tailgate on my truck for reference.
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Have a 2008 Superduty F250XL 4X4 and it came from the factory with the plain-Jane AM/FM radio.Will the factory 6 disc CD player out of another 08 directly replace this AM/FM without modifying the dash or anything else?It looks to be the same size.
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Have a 2008 F-350 crew cab 4x4 lariat with 20" wheels on it. Tire size is very limited/expensive. Can I replace the 20" wheels with 18" or 17"? I was told it depends on the size of the brakes. How do I check that, short of buying "test" wheels? I am old school and would rather have more tire and less rim, than the other way around.
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So I just took my 2004 Ford Tauraus into the shop. I have about 155,000 miles on it. I was told as part of the repairs that my air conditioner pump was bad, and that I should have it repaired, as it would affect my power steering and battery. The total cost of the repair and the part I was told would be $1100, money that I do not currently have and that I would not like to dip into my 401K for. My question is if this repair is absolutely necessary, and if I don't get it fixed can I still drive the car as long as I don't use the AC.
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OK, I haven't done a Ranger w/ torsion bars in the front , only coils. What is the best/safest way to do this?
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its a 2000 limited 4x4, must have been in the snow a lot because it was from up north and is pretty rusty on the underside. my dad and i have tried everything to get these caps off but nothing will work. lots of pb blaster, hammering, even cutting the one of the four joints and trying to wedge something from the inside. If we cant get it could a shop do it? and how much might they charge?
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Bought the EX from my sister 2 years ago, I know that she's had the ball joints replaced several times and have read on here how some people have only gotten 20K miles out of a set. Anyway, I have the same clunk and I spent one Saturday changing them out ( as well as new brakes and rotors ) I still have the same cluck sound. I've just read a thread on the hubs rattling and its related to the needle bearings wearing out. I'll lock it in 4WD to see if the clunk goes away but I don't think that's going to work.
Would bad / incorrectly adjusted wheel bearings make this same sound? When doing the ball joints, I saw one set must have been rebuilt since the locknut looked brand new and the other side showed its been there a while.
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I put new upper and lower ball joints on a few weeks ago. The front end is really tight after getting done. the steering wheel will not return to center. I feel like I am constantly on the wheel correcting. I had the alignment checked and they said it was good. I also put new 17" wheels and bigger tires on it at the same time.
We just towed our camper this past weekend and the truck and camper was all over the road. Is all of the above caused by new ball joints?
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Our axle seal went out 2500 Miles ago. Its a light leak and just wets the axle by the U-Joints. Also our 4x4 hubs don't kick into action when they should. I have to put them in Lock to get them to work. That may be why the axle seal went out, because I just leave it in lock then drive thousands of highway miles. (I don't do that anymore now that I know what I was doing) Maybe the vacuum isn't working. Could they have anything to do with each other? I don't think they do. I'm not sure how the vacuum works. Maybe I just need to service the Hub? I watched a video on it that made it seem like cake. New hubs crazy expensive!
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My friend is changing out the ball joints, upper and lower, both sides. I have seen that the upper is typically done by replacing the whole arm, I don't plan on doing this. So, with a press and new ball joints, are there any nice tips from you all? Looking for useful info before I get into it. I did a search and have not found a thread like "ball joints-how to".
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