Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: How To Check Real Oil Pressure On 5.4
May 13, 2012
Is there a port I can hook a mechanical oil pressure gauge to for checking my oil pressure.
View 6 RepliesIs there a port I can hook a mechanical oil pressure gauge to for checking my oil pressure.
View 6 RepliesI was driving when the truck made a terrible noise and while pulling over the check engine light went on as well as low oil pressure. I turned off truck and checked but no evidence of any leakage at all. Checked oil stick and was dry. Let sit for an hour and checked oil stick to find about 1/2" showing. Added oil to find that now it was overfull, drained oil back and stick showed proper level. Attempted to drive and it was fine until I came to a stop wherein it would stall with "low oil pressure" showing and check engine light on. Brought to shop and they said engine is very gunked up, they said they could try oil flush but probably will not work. They most likely will have to remove the valve cover and such to physically look at engine and take it from there... (I have always used type of oil stated on the cap, used synthetic and changed every 5-7k miles - showed diagnostic codes p0011, p0340, p0345 and p0021).
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 f150 4 Dr. My fan sounds like it's going to come thru my glove box. I replaced the blower resistor and that did not work. I have cold air blowing out, it just gurgles real bad. And it's hot out.
View 5 RepliesWhen my truck sits all day and its cold out, my truck in 2WD will make a whining sound going down the road, sometimes its a grinding sound almost. Appears to be coming from the passenger side of the truck towards the front. Engaging 4x4 gets rid of the noise, and the noise will usually disappear after the truck has been running and warmed up. I've changed my ball joints recently and everything looked good and yes it had done it a time or two before hand. What causes this, and how do I fix it?
View 6 RepliesEngine seems to knock real bad after engine gets hot like its out of time if unplug the vvt solenoids it runs great something is telling them to adjust timing to much.
When it came in it had a cam code and i found cam sensor was broken it had new installed found part of other in engine. Phaser was damaged replaced it. still did it after.
Then I pulled front of engine apart found chain tensioner leaking oil around gasket and then we decided to re time chain. If still doing it.Will let know after air mass meter.
PS no codes at this time
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2006 Ford F150 4x4 - Ford
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I'm trying to add some 134 to the AC to see if it will work at all. it slowly stopped last year. I got a charge hose and a can of just 134a. When I attached the hose the gauge pegs on the high pressure side. I know I'm on the low pressure side and the compressor isn't running. It starts and stops. Should the pressure be that high with the compressor not running?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 F-350 diesel crew cab dealer said I had a radiator leak so they replaced it now after I shut truck off it starts humming real loud like its relieving pressure my temps and everything else seems to be ok...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Explorer with 167,000 miles that has begun to display erractic messages such as, check charging system, low tire pressure, AvTrac off and about everything there is. Reset and everything looks good then messages start again. I am thinking computer module.
View 3 Replies My 2004 f 150 heritage 4.6 l the oil pressure dropped all the way down i was in a drive thru and it was clattering really bad so i pulled into the parking lot and shut it down pulled the stick plenty of oil i re started about 30 minutes later and it pumped oil pressure. So I started on my way home the gauge would go to normal and when I would touch the brakes and let off the gas it would drop and the oil light would come on and the engine would start rattling and would have no power, I would pull over and do it over again and finally i just called a tow truck.
So I changed the oil new motorcraft filter and 5/30 motor oil , it started up made all kind of noise but i got oil pressure and quieted down i went to drive it and as soon as it started to roll the pressure dropped and the oil light came on and it started to rattle again. Whats happening is the pump going out ? can it be replaced with out pulling the engine? the truck has 200,000 miles on it
I have a 2008 Kia Rio, 4 Cyl 1.6L, and recently the check engine light came on and the car started running real rough after getting the timing belt replaced at firestone. I took it back to Firestone and they said that 2 of the cylinders where misfiring and i need to replace the ignition coils and the corresponding spark plugs, but that i also want to get a catalytic converter cleaning or flush or something like that because of the unburnt gas that was running into the converter. Is this true? They want to charge me another 100.00 for the cleaning on top of the 300.00 to replace the 2 ignition coils and spark plugs, should i get this done or can i clean it out myself?
View 6 Repliesi have a 2005 F150 5.4L while driving my message board bell indicated low oil pressure i pulled into the station and checked oil. i had to add about 2 qts i filled up with gas and the truck has not started since. I towed it home changed the oil, filter, oil pressure sensor and the fuel filter
when i try to start it the engine turns over normal no noises, knocking or anything out of the ordinary. It sounds like it wants to start but then acts like something is shutting the fuel pump down. I had the local mechanic tell me that the fuel pump was out. I can here the fuel pump kick on for no more than 2 seconds then shuts off. he told me it should pump for about 5 to 10 seconds. i am not convinced it is the fuel pump dont want to spend $300 on something i dont need.
is there a saftey cut off swith to the fuel pump when the low oil pressure indicator comes on? i also check the codes and its not giving any codes but i had removed the battery and replaced it and i am thinking that removed the codes?
2008 F250 Lariat ... A/C is blowing real weak in all modes and temperatures. Did some reading and found that the evaporator and heater core could be clogged. I am just going to go ahead and assume taking the dash out of the truck and replacing both heater core and evap core would be the best fix. On to my question.. Where are the main mounting points for the dash?
View 2 RepliesMy Chysler Town and Country started fine on a morning when it was 9 degrees. (no garage, so it was out in the weather.) I let it run for a couple of minutes so things would begin to thaw and then I drove to work. It ran really rough. I figured that once it warmed up, it would smooth out, but it did not. Even after the weather warmed up into the 50's 5 days later, it still runs rough. Now, I am also getting a check engine light. What could be wrong?
View 3 Replies2004 Lariat. Ford F150, 5.4 Triton. Whenever I slow down, stop, or turn my truck will read low oil pressure, then all my gauges drops and it stalls out. I've taken it to my mechanic twice now. And twice he's replaced two sensors. Today I took it to Wal-Mart for an oil change and they said its probably why my check engine light is on code, T19. I've had that light on for 4 years now and this stalling out problem starts 3 months ago. So far its had regular oil changes, new air filter, two new sensors and im scraping money to throw at it. Hitting snow banks, other vehicles, and tree's... need to find the real problem before I go broke or worst kill someone in an accident.
View 1 RepliesI upgraded my 2007 f150 xl from 17" hankook tires to 18" michelins....problem is the low tire pressure light has come on and wont go off....Ive checked the tire pressure and all are equal... how to turn this light off, or what may be the problem?
View 14 RepliesI have been having quite a rough time fixing a P0345 code on my 06 F-150 w/5.4 w/85,000. This truck has gone to a Ford dealer every 5K for the oil change/checkup etc.
Long and short - P0345 Code @ approx 83,500 miles, rough idle once the engine was up to temp and it would clear if you bumped the skinny pedal.
I have replaced the following:
--Both Cam Phasers
--Both VCT Solenoids (they both had holes in the screens - see this post [URL] ....
--Passenger side Cam Position sensor (I broke it pulling it out to do phaser swap)
--Spark plugs - SP515's
Issue was still present so then I replaced:
--Complete Timing chain set (Chains,Gear, Guides and Tensioners) - Drivers (left) side tensioner collapsed.
Once all back together and running the code is still there so I finally installed a REAL electric oil pressure gauge. Turns out I only have about 15psi at hot idle and 50psi when driving etc.
I am at wits end, because at this point I would have to guess that the engine is junk... Either a bearing is shot or whatever... Do I take the 3-4 hours to drop the pan to potentially see what is going on? Or just drop some 15W40 in the engine and trade it in?
Do the tensioners have an O-ring where they mount to the block? I read a lot about blown tensioner seals...are people talking about the block to tensioner seal or the internal seal between tensioner body and plunger?
Also of course it makes sense to check oil pressure first with real gauge, but if the tensioner seals are toast, then one doesn't really get a good reading until they are replaced.
My dad has an 04 with 90k miles..throwing cam timing codes and you can hear the timing chains stupid noisy at idle. This just happened rather abruptly. Not like the engine oil pressure has been slowly going down due to wear, but like a tensioner seal has finally let go or possibly a guide.
I am thinking about checking the oil pressure before buying the timing components but then realized one truly doesn't know if the low oil pressure is due to blown seal or increased tolerances.
I have a 2007 F150 Screw lariat and have swapped the factory 20" wheels for a set of18" FX4 wheels. Question is how do i get the light on the dash to go off?? I swapped these tires and wheels 2 weeks ago and never got a light.. now tonight I get a light? I don't know if the 18" have pressure sensors in them or not..Wouldn't I have gotten a light right away?
View 1 RepliesI own a 2007 Lariat F150 with the 5.4 4x4. It has 96000 miles.
That being said. The other day I was driving and went through a pretty big mud hole on a county road (couldn't go around it). Following, very shortly, my truck bogged down and died. "Low Oil Pressure" popped up. I let it sit for a minute, and checked underneath to make sure that I hadn't popped a line or ripped something. I hadn't.
I start the truck up again, and started driving no issues, for about 3/4 of a mile, and again it died, and "LOP". So I let it sit for about 15 minutes, thinking about why it would have that pop up. Couldn't figure out anything. Started again. and had a really rough idle in between the 500-1500 RPM range.
I decided to change out the oil when I got home. I put in some 15-40, hoping that would solve the issue.
It hasn't still idles really rough, but won't shut down anymore. I didn't try driving it though because I was afraid it would die again.
I'm not sure if the spark plugs are bad, I don't think they've ever been changed (I know it's bad). I'm pretty sure that it's not a vacuum leak, but not 100%. I need this truck to run.
My friend has an 08 4.6. He has replaced the thermostat with 3 different ones all with different temps, still nothing. Temp gauge reads normal but after driving it for a bit he can take off the radiator cap while it's running and not get sprayed in the face with coolant, almost like there is no pressure in the system.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 FX4 4x4 ... Four wheel drive is not working!!!!! Turn the dash switch to 4High or 4Low and the lights come on in my dash gauge cluster. So my 4x4 lights come on as if the 4x4 is working but my front wheels do not turn. What I have done:
Drove the truck forward while I watched the front drive shaft going from the transfer case to the front differential. Did this in 2WD and then in 4WD high. While driving forward in 2WD the front drive shaft did not move. Once put into 4WD high and driven forward the front drive shaft was turning. I guess this tells me that my transfer case and shift motor are working?
I jacked up my driver side front wheel and turned the tire by hand while the truck was running in 2WD. The tire spun freely and the CV axle (half shaft) did not turn. Then turned 4x4 dash switch to 4WD high and turned the tire again by hand and the CV axle turned while turning the tire. I guess this indicates that the IWE actuator was working....I guess???
Repeated the process above for the front passenger side of the truck and the tire would always spin freely regardless if in 2WD or 4WD. I could not get the CV axle to turn while spinning the tire on the passenger side when the truck was running and switched to 4WD
I checked the vacuum solenoid near the battery mounted on the firewall. The vacuum line supplying vacuum to solenoid was working and pulling vacuum. I did a series of test in conjunction with the dashboard 4x4 selector and the Vacuum Solenoid seemed to be working properly.
Crawled under the truck while the engine was running and pulled the vacuum line off the nipples of each IWE Actuators (drive and passenger side) put my finger over the lines and felt decent vacuum at each end of each vacuum line.
So dash switch and 4x4 light works stays on solid and bright does not flicker
Vacuum solenoid and vacuum lines seem to be working
Transfer case and shift motor seem to be working
Driver side IWE actuator seems to work
Front passenger side Actuator does not seem to be working??? Why I am so confused about this is because in HOURS of Internet research it seems that this Actuator is not allowed to engage by vacuum pressure. When I disconnect the vacuum line to the passenger side actuator I expected to hub to lock, but it did not, the tire would turn but the CV axle wouldn't? If I replace the passenger side IWE actuator will this fix my four wheel drive? Or is there something else I am missing??