Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: How To Determine Overall Truck Length With VIN Number
Mar 16, 2017
My garage measures exactly 235" deep, and I would have to remove some shelving on the back wall to get it. I want a used F150 with an extended cab, and so due to the length restrictions, it needs to have a short bed.
One Used Truck dealer actually measured an F150 he had for sale, and it measured 228", which would have left 7" if I had bought his truck. So part of my question is if all F150's are the same length, do they vary by year, body style, etc..., but my main question is if it's possible to know the overall length of the truck just by having the VIN#.
Weeks ago, I found a particular "VIN Checker" website that gave me the length of one particular F150 based on the VIN#, but I didn't bother to save the VIN Checker website, and despite the fact that I've used several sites to check several trucks, the "overall length" specification has not been listed once, ever since.
So I don't know if there was something special about that particular site, or if the overall length spec is only available (via the VIN#) in certain years, on certain models, or what. So I'm asking.
The main reason is if I'm looking at a truck and I can get the VIN. Note I see other physical dimension specs all the time, width, etc... but length is the one that I DON'T see. I don't know if this is because the VIN checking websites don't have/can't get the information..
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What is the bed length on a 2004 f-150 crew cab?
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I went and fired up my ac today for the first time, and guess what no ac. So I crawl under the truck to check the compressor out, and guess what I find? The stupid face of the compressor had came loose and was sitting between my frame and the steering rack. Just glad it didn't fall off the truck, now I need to put it back on, but what size bolt. Looking for a spare compressor or know the size and length of the bolt?
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Firstly having this wired noise underneath the trunk of my car I found out stabilizer links were bad so I changed it some of the Klad Klad noise were gone but still persists then I thought it's maybe spare tire is loose it wasn't then checked the jack it's fine. It comes in very slow speed as if something is hitting ( plastic) on to chassis the rubber mounts are good not dried or cracked I went under the car millions of time in vain.
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First sounds from our prototype exhaust with PPE long-tube equal-length headers.
FIGS Lexus IS-F PPE Equal Length Headers and FIGS Proto Exhaust - YouTube
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PPE Engineering has been getting lot's of inquires from us ISF owners about the feasibility of making an Equal Length Header for the ISF similar to the one they make for the RCF. Since I am a past customer, live nearby, have another vehicle and am a pretty nice guy they called and asked if I might be interested in having my car test fit for Equal Length Headers.
While discussing this with them, I suggested that if modified RCF Headers wouldn't fit, maybe they could accomplish the equal length task by using long tubes. Well, it seems that RCF headers will in fact fit in an ISF, and the headers they built for me were also Long Tube. How sweet is that? But, the EL, LT headers must be used with the PPE Exhaust due to the exit point of the collector.
I went for Dyno testing yesterday, and it appears I lost 7HP at the top end and gained only 1.5 lb ft of torque at the high end. I also gained grunt at the bottom. My Seat of the Pants tells me the car is faster.
I don't know why it ran out of breath at the high end. Nothing else has changed.
PPE Headers
PPE Dual Mode Exhaust - With HiFlow Cats
Takeda Intake
As far as sound goes, in the cabin with the exhaust open, the drone remains in the same area (between 1900 and 2100 RPM) but is much lower in volume. I can now carry on a phone conversion (with bluetooth hands free) with the exhaust in the open position. The volume level does increase, however, when under acceleration through that RPM range.
Now the ISF does not have a lumpy engine by any means, but it idle with the old headers, the sound (both inside and outside the car) had a sort of lumpy growling quality to it. The sound is now very smooth, again inside and outside. The harmonics seemed to have changed.
Edit - My wheels and tires have changed. I'm now running RCF wheels with larger 295 vs 285 rears, so wheel weight is up a bit!
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My truck will not go above 30 mph - rpm's will rev high but, speed will not climb. I was able to put the truck in 2nd gear and drive home at @ 40 mph. Truck has 135K miles on it, I'm the original owner. What this might be?
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How do you know if the inverter coolant pump/reservoir is bad after the recall was performed?Since it doesn't produce any codes but can reduce the electric-drive if getting too hot, how do you convince Toyota to give it a second look?
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My buddies truck runs fine, but when he floors it he says it dies out. Like it shuts off. Lets off the throttle n it comes back.
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2004 f150, Column shift Auto...
Today I stopped the truck put it into park and shut it off, everything worked fine, when I went to go start it back up it started but I cant put it out of park, I called FORD and they said put the key into the on position press the break as hard as you can and put it into neutral, we tried that and it didn't work, then they asked if we could move the truck because it could be struck or something still nothing... We tried the little cap and hold it to override the solenoid but it didn't work I dunno if I am doing it wrong so Is there any other things I can try or can you walk me through the override button here's what I did with that.
Opened the cap with a flat head
pushed it in
And started tried to shift
Is that what you do or what do you need to do??
Is there any way I could check the solenoid how do i take apart the column to do that?
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I've got a 2005 F-150 (5.4 triton) with about 35k miles that I rarely use in 4x4 mode. The other day, after stopping to fill up with gas, the truck 4x4 Lo light was on after starting it. The dashboard switch was still in 2H mode as I never switched it. I first thought that the dashboard light might be in error, but when I began to pull out of the gas station. the truck was in fact in 4x4 Lo. I had forgotten how to cycle it back to 2H so I slowly drove about 3 miles home at 20 mph.
Once home, I re-read the tranny sync sequence and managed to get back to 4x2. I called the dealer who never heard of a truck getting into that Lo mode w/o activating the switch and suggested that I just monitor it. I read a number of forum threads discussing the IWE and solenoid problems, but all of those threads dealt with issues of not being able to get too 4x4 mode. My biggest concern is that I leave in a month for a 2000 mile trip, towing a cargo trailer and I'd hate to inadvertently switch into 4/4 when traveling 60 mpg on a highway.
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I'm having an issue with my 2005 f150 xlt. Its been happening for almost near a month and still cant locate the issue .
It has a vibration at 75km throughout the whole truck. Ive tried multiple things done to it by a mechanic, such as having the tires balanced and the ujoints replaced. The problem still persisted and after attempting to test out to see if press/releasing the parking break (my mechani suggested trying that out), my driveshaft fell off.
Apparently the center bearing snapped and cant simply be replaced on the 05's. So i had to get a new driveshaft installed (used, both the 3 mechanics I've gone to say its in good condition).
Even after replacing the driveshaft the issue persists - however it seems a bit softer than it was (I am guessing the old driveshaft was worn from the vibration causing it to be worse). After that I took it to another shop to see if they could locate the issue. They did a driveline inspection and engine inspection too see if a misfire could be the cause.
Again, nothing was found. The only thing they were able to find was that the issue only happens under load and slightly occurs at 40 and 100km as well (although alot softer then the one at 75) and they say they cant find anything physically and it was a mystery to them.
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I was just wondering how do I find out if my FX4 has a locked rear? We bought it used so I have no clue.
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Just got an 04 f150 STX 4.6L Regular cab.
Drove fine for a few months (she's a little rough, but she does the trick).
The other day, I went out to go to work, truck would start and run, won't come out of park. Both turn signal indicators on the dash are illuminated, turn signals, flashers, radio and Climate controls do not work.
Currently driving with the emergency shifter release pulled out and zip tied open. First thought was interlock switch, but I'm not sure if that would affect everything else.
This happened once before, and I pulled all the taillights and checked all fuses, then it just seemed to work again after flipping the rheostat for the interior/dash lights. didn't work this time around.
Dash is all torn apart - where to start looking?
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I have a 2004 150 with 165,000 miles I sometimes pull a 5 by 8 trailer. when pulling trailer in overdrive and excelorating the engone will cough several times. I took it to a mechanic and he told me that there was nothing he could do that I needed a new engine. I can pull trailer out of overdrive with no problem. don't undrstand why I need new engine....
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I may have to replace the starter on my truck. Have heard it is difficult especially on the top bolt. Any stickys/bulletins on how to do this.
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Trying 1.5 spacers on an f 150? Im not sure if wider is better.
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E brakes were sticking so I took off wheels, rotors, calipers, and cleaned the E Brake caliper and lubed it. Started driving and E brakes are still sticking? What gives? Could the cable be hung up? Wonder if I should replace the E brake cables.
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I was getting a misfire in #4 cyl. Couldn't afford to change all my plugs, so I replaced the one that was missing. Two weeks went by, truck ran fine, then it started missing really hard (same cyl #4). Thought my COP was bad, so replaced that and the boot.
Drove my truck to work last night, seemed to run fine, but this morning, it started to sputter again around 45-55. Plug in my OBD2 and it wasn't throwing any codes, seemed to idle just fine.
When I got home I put it park and revved the engine a little bit. Got it around 2500 rpm and it sounded like I have a air leak in a way. What do at this point. It is a 2007 F150 5.4 triton with 104xxx on it.
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I have an 05 150, 5.4l, My truck idles around 600 rpm when warm, I think that may be slightly low. Not sure what to check on.
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I have a 04 f150 fx4 with the 5.4 v8. My truck has a tick to it. It does it all the time, hot, cold, at idle, and while driving. I thought it was a cam phaser but I've been hearing people say bad cam phasers make the engine sound like a diesel engine. My does not sound like a diesel it just makes a ticking sound, my dad says it sounds like a 350 with a rod knocking, however now that it doesn't sound like a diesel I am wondering if it could be the vct.
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