Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Hot Smelly Rear Brake
Dec 25, 2012
My truck is a 2004 F150, low mileage. I dont know if the brakes are original but theyve never been done since Ive owned the truck-4 years.
Last night I loaned my stock trailer 2200lb and truck to a friend (the trailer had been sitting 7 months) and first off the pin hole plug in box on back of truck had gotten bent somehow...so he hammered it back enough to get the 7 pin thing in and trailer lites working. WHen he unhitched he left the 7 pin plug in the hole so it would be easier for me to plug in next time.
He went about 20 miles rt with a horse in the trailer both ways. When he got back to my yard the rear passenger side tire was HOT (to hot to touch without getting burned) and there was a plastic/rubber type burning smell. Other 3 tires ok-mildly warm to the touch but most def. not HOT. When we looked at it with a flashlite there was a lot of rust type color on the rotor? (hope Im naming the parts right)-the other rear was just silver and dark.
He said I needed to replace the pads. Couple questions as Im too poor to go to a dealer or fix a lot of thing needlessly....so I just have friends do the work.
(I dont have a trailer brake box in this truck like I have in my other truck so I ASSUME that my horse trailer doesnt have brakes-how can I tell??)
What causes this?? I mean it was so hot I think if it would have gone another mile it would have caught on fire.
Do I replace just the pads, the pads and rotors and capilars??? I will be buying the parts at the store. Should I opt for a heavy duty or ceramic pad?
I need to go tot he store but am now scared to drive the truck even not towing. Should I be worried?? The brakes are gonna catch fire.
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I'm having a hard time trying to remove one of my rear brake rotors.
I thought these simply pull straight out and off, but mine might be rusted in place. I soaked the front facing area around the axle with Kroil and then tried jolting it out by tapping it with a rubber mallet. No success
What's the trick?
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Every time I brake, there is an awful grinding sound in the rear of my truck. It doesn't seem to be affecting the brake strength, however something is obviously wrong. I have looked at the brake pads and they seem to be in good shape. I am a mechanical misfit, but I hate getting ripped off by other people at the brake shops.
2005 F150 Crew Cab, 5.4 V8....
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Getting ready to perform the clean and adjust rear brakes maintenance. I took a digital caliper and measured my rear drum brake thickness. The thinnest measurement I got was 3.19 mm.
I looked up the specifications and rear shoes brand-new are 4 mm. Minimum thickness allowed is 1mm.
I have 95K on my 2008. Since my brake shoes are showing close to brand-new measurements does this mean my rear drums are out of adjustment or is this normal?
XT1080 ?
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Had a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
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I have a 2004 Elantra GLS. My left rear brake was hanging (wheel was very hot to the touch after driving, while other wheels were not), so I had a friend check the brake pads. We decided to replace the pads and rotors. While doing so, the parking brake seemed stuck in the on position, so I opted to have him disconnect it completely until I could afford to replace it. I had used it for the first time about 2 weeks before I noticed the hot brake problem, so we figured that must have been why the brake was hanging.
My friend replaced the rotors and pads, put some penetrant/lubricant on the piston of the caliper and reassembled the brakes. He did use the special tool to spin the caliper in when putting the pads on, however he didn't know that was necessary and tried to force them in with a C-clamp first.
Now, I seem to have two problems:
1. The left rear brake still hangs sometimes. I will drive the car and when I park it I can feel the heat coming off of the left rear wheel. It is extremely hot, so I know the brake is hanging (even with the parking brake disconnected). What is the problem here? Is the caliper bad? Would replacing the caliper solve the problem? Does the parking brake have to be connected to stop the caliper from hanging up?
2. My second problem is the pulsating of the brakes. I am afraid the rotor is warped because of the heat, or maybe he didn't clean everything well enough before he put the new rotor on. How can I figure out what the problem is? Is there a way to check a rotor to see if it is warped? Could there be another reason I feel the pulsating brakes? By the way, the brake fluid is full.
If the caliper needs to be replaced and I can leave the parking brake disconnected, are there any special instructions my friend should know about before working on this? He does work on a lot of cars and rebuilds cars to sell, so he is pretty knowledgeable. I think the only thing he didn't know about was rotating the piston. I would like to provide him with detailed instructions if necessary.
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I plan to attempt my first ever brake job on a 2008 Ford F-150 XL 4.2L V6 RWD with 50K miles on it.
I've done a lot of reading in order to prepare and from what I can gather it seems best to take off the brake rotor altogether in order to clean off the rust build-up and apply some nickel anti-seize compound in between the hub and rotor. I live in a cold climate and we use quite a bit of salt on the roads here so I thought while I'm changing the pads I might as well clean the rotors of all rust build up while I got the calipers off.
My only problem is that I only have a 265 foot pound torque wrench and the spindle nut that holds my rotors on calls for 295 ft. pounds torque. Also the Haynes manual says that you should buy a new spindle nut ($20 part) and cotter pin. I have neither.
So...I am wondering whether I should forestall taking off the rotor and just do some surface clean-up of the rotor with some Evapo-Rust Rust Remover then blast it with some Brakleen and call it good. I plan to use some caliper grease of course and a dab of nickel anti-seize compound on the backsides of the new brake pads. Is this bad practice, will I regret this in 50K more miles when the wheel hub is completely married to a rotor? How likely is that do you think?
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What size sockets do I need in order to complete a brake pad replacement for my rear brakes?
Also, what are the torque specs for each bolt I will be refastening?
And just in case a bolt breaks... what size bolts are used on the calipers?
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