Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Horrible Noise Coming From The Engine - Alternator Bearing?
May 25, 2011
This monday i found this horrible noise coming from the engine... My first thought was a pulley bearing, yet none of them at the front appeared to be the cause, and standing in front of the bay it sounded like it came from the engine itself (which would be really bad news). Well, i parked the truck until today and i went to check if i could find the cause. I used a mech's stethoscope at the engine and found nothing strange, turned the engine off and touched the pulleys to feel if any was getting hotter than the others... no dice...
Then took the belt off and tried every pulley by hand, all worked ok, yet when i turned the Alternator's it flashed a little spark every now and then (that was just a hint, i wasn't sure). To finally rule out the engine, i turned it on without the belt (that would leave all the pulleys out of the equation). It worked fine and made no strange noises. I cleaned several pulleys and placed the belt back, and turned the engine on once again, this time keeping my attention at the alternator, enough said, it made several spark noises and suddenly, i saw a cap flying of its back. It turned out to be the bearing at the back of the alternator, it was destroyed and losing shrapnel all over, take a look:
Now, need to know what is the part number of the measures of this bearing. (I'll take what's left of the bearing to the store, but i like to be sure of what I'm looking for).
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My 2007,4.6 is making a whinning noise from the front of the engine around the idler/tensioner/alternator. What I have read it might be a problem with the alternator getting cold, I forgot to mention it's cold up here. Fixed by changing the alternator and did the noise come back as it seems to be a design problem?
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I started up my 2004 v8 phaeton with 49k mies for the first time in two weeks and it made an awful squealing sound that seems to be coming from the front of the engine. it also seems to be idling very roughly, this may or may not be related to the noise. it has never made this sound before and i am scared to drive it until i get an idea of what it is. i am afraid it is the timing belt and the i will ruin the whole engine on the way to the dealership.
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We've had a lot of rain here in pa lately and i hit a few big puddles the other day and now i have a growl slash wine in the front of my motor,now i narrowed it down to something driven by the bely because I removed the belt and no noise all pulleys feel good and smooth except the ac compressor if you spin it by hand it has a rough/dry feeling and sound to it but the noise doesn't change with the ac on or off its just constant grinding/whine. Replace the ac compressor pulley bearing that what I am thinking it is and don't really want to change out the whole compressor..
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I just bought an '04 F150 from a friend. It has 250K miles on it. When I got the truck there were no tapping noises coming from the engine. Now that I changed the oil, at start up till about 5 miles down the road, I hear the tapping noise. I put Castrol high mileage 5W-20 in it. Could it just be the oil I'm using or something more expensive?
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Whenever I am driving 60 km/h or more a loud noise seems to come into play. The noise sounds like a really loose ball bearing spinning. Then sounds like a turbine slowing down when going 30 or under. The only issue is the noise does not go away until the truck shifts down into 1st gear. And when doing so the truck jerks enough for everyone in the vechile to feel it. This problem only seems to come when it's rainy or slushy outside and even then does not happen very often. I have had the truck to ford and another mech. Nobody can seem to pinpoint the problem. 2006 f150 5.4l ....
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My 2006 f150 was making a noise that's coming from the engine. It sound like rocks in the engine. When I'm going 50-60 MPH the engine starts to make a sounds like rocks in the engine. What's happening. When I go about 40 it stops.
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My 2004 F-150 5.4 has a rattling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine when at operating temperature. The cam phasers and all related parts have been replaced. The reason I was prompted to change the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners was due to the engine stopping on me as I returned home from an errand. The engine had already shown signs of needing the phasers replaced.
The engine runs very smooth while warming up. Vehicle lacks power and has a rough idle after warm. Took the truck to a local mechanic, in the process of making a diagnosis, he performed a compression test. Cylinder 3 psi was much lower than the other 7 cylinders, the mechanic recommended replacing the engine (possible bent valve).
I have a Haynes manual, have searched youtube and checked this and similar forums, I have yet to find instructions on the removal of the head from the block.
(2004 Ford F-150 5.4 3v)....
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Ok, so my 2007 F150 Lariat super crew cab has been at the dealership for a week now with them claiming that a part is on back order. How hard is it for them to get in a right front axle?? Granted, it was in there for other stuff too (which they can not give me a straight answer on if they fixed or not cause they are claiming the technician hasn't done the write up on it yet). My main concern is that they are screwing me around or that something happened to my truck. I am planning on stopping by there on Wed. morning after I get out of work.
Are these trucks known for bad front axles or was there some kind of a big recall on them?
Other things it went in for was the radio having the CD's cycle through when you first start up the truck, but does not happen like that all the time. Black plastic driver side front door hinge is cracked exposing the metal reinforcing part. Whirring/bearing type noise when you first start up the truck when it is cold and sits overnight (which they claim they can't hear yet waited to bring the truck inside and check it out at 3PM when they had the truck overnight from the night before when I dropped it off.) and the front driveshaft not fully disengaging when the truck is in 2wd. Almost seems like the vacuum locking hubs are still engaged.
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We are working on a 97 f250 light duty 4.6 4x4 5spd. Trying to figure out where a bearing noise is coming from in front end. Replaced both front hub bearings from napa. 150 each... the noise is still there. someone said could be cv shafts... although ive never heard a cv shaft make this noise i replaced them anyway cuz one was clickin last time was in the woods. bearing noise is still there..... in a long bank turn to the left the noise goes away till start to straighten out. while replacing the half shafts I grabbed the plates the shafts bolt to and spun them and checked for slack. none found. front diff's full with no leaks. as title says.... what next?
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I wonder how prevalent this problem is with Ford alternators. Sure looks like it was cracked a long time, like maybe from over-tightening. I was planning on having new bearings installed to hopefully take care of a periodic whine. Already replaced the idler pulleys. As much as I dislike rebuilt alternators, looks like I will be getting one.
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2004 F-150 XLT.... What the thread size and pitch are on the alternator pulley nut? Cant find a replacement nut anywhere and lost the original!
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I just replaced my battery and alternator this evening on my 2004 F-150 5.4L. After driving it around a bit, the idle is dropping to about 100 RPM almost to a point of stalling when coming to stop. It slowly creeps back up to a normal idle shortly after.
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What is causing the right front wheel bearing to keep going bad on my 06 f-150 2 wheel drive....
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So I was going to get the truck washed, but 2 blocks down the road smoke out of the engine bay.
Pulled over popped the hood and the alternator is on fire. Extinguished it self out but the burnt electrical smell.....sheesh..
Anyways, could I potentially drive the truck to the dealer, or will it catch on fire again????
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My 2007 hyundai sonota with the 3.3 starting making a horrible noise as if no engine oil and eventually just stopped. ( My son was driving it). The engine oil light did come on! I checked engine oil level, it was fine. I also checked oil filter and it looked good.
You could restart the car and drive it and it would run for 15 -20 minutes before the engine oil light comes on then 5 minutes later it dies. Let it sit and the same thing happens. So I pulled codes and got P-0011 (code of many causes)
I pulled the OCV (CVVT actuator) in the cylinder nearest the radiator (bank 1? not sure which bank this is). Actually it was the only one I could find. It was not easy and it is in a cramped spot almost directly under the intake manifold.
Never the less It tested at 7.8 ohms and it moved when I applied 12 volts. According to Haynes, this number is good and the action when voltage applied is in the correct range.
I am stuck now. Haynes manual implies there is only 1 OCV (CVVT actuator) for this year model, but gets confusing? Is there another OCV I can check, on the other bank near the firewall (bank 2).
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Last night battery light came on. Drove 40 miles home with lights on. Today, it started so I headed out. About 10 miles of battery light on, gauge fluctuating mildly either side of middle, gauge suddenly drops dramatically. I turn around and head back. After a mile or so there's a terrible growling under the hood, sounded like it could be an alternator bearing. Just as I pull over, the noise stops but entire dash goes black. Popped hood, alternator spinning quietly and not hot. I drove back and it started stumbling and surging as the battery died and it finally quit almost all the way back.
I have battery on charger now. I assume the BCM is the regulator by feeding current back to the field? If so could the growling be the BCM feeding back a huge field and the rectifier bridge growing? And the BCM fuse blew because too much current to alternator field coils? Will it start with a charged battery with the BCM dead? I need it to run to get to the parts place. Which fuses do I need to check? Then, how do I check the alternator, wiring, BCM regulator to find original problem?
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I have an 2003 F250 with a nosiy alternator and need to change the bearings. I would like to have the bearings on hand before i take it apart. What is the part numbers for the bearings I need?
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On my 06 Mark LT I have a buzzing noise of outside air coming in the cab on the passenger side. I have had the grinding vent door actuator problem fixed in the past so I am not sure if it is related. The buzzing gets louder as I go faster, such as on the highway. Where to look?
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Alright, so about a month ago I was driving when I heard a terrible noise sounded like a pop can stuck between a bike tire coming from the front end. I figured this was the dreaded noise most folks hear when the 4wd system isn't getting enough vacuum.
It did this for about two days, even after replacing the IWE solenoid, then it just stopped and I haven't heard it since. Me being on the cautious side, I'm a bit worried. I haven't jacked the truck up, but I did (brace yourself) lay under it while my buddy drove slowly over, there was no unusual movement.
Question is, if I had to replace anything, what exactly would it be and how much am I looking at? My warranty will be up in about a month or so and Ford has been less than spectacular with repairs thus far so I'd like to go ahead and fix it myself
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Have a wheel bearing going south can it make the car hard to turn one direction. I dont really have any humming like a wheel bearing does. But i feel a little resistance every now and then when turning the steering right. I have sprayed the steering shaft joints and i can see that they are moving free like they should. And i have a less than 2 yr old steering rack. My truck has 103k miles on the original (to my knowledge) bearings. i didn't know if sometimes a wheel bearing could cause a hard to turn in one direction feel.
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