When I have the A/C running in my truck it idles at like 900 RPM's if not 950 RPM's. It also doesn't appear to sweat like normal vehicles do. Most every other vehicle I've owned sweat when running the A/C it does but just not a lot. I hear it hiss like the drip is hitting something hot when I shut the door on the truck.
View 1 RepliesSo... I had the hood open and when i pressed the gas it makes a short hissing noise of some sort... I'll try and get a video tomorrow... it only lasts for about 1-2 seconds not sure if its just induction noise...
View 11 RepliesI have a 2006 screw with the 5.4 and I get a hissing type noise from the A/C. It cycles every 7 seconds and sounds like it's coming from the far passenger vent area. It sounds like it's recharging itself or something. I've taken it into the dealer and the first time they said it was the vacuum driven system then the second time they said it was the freon recharging itself. Is every 7 seconds a little to often? It seems to get louder the longer I drive. Needless to say after a four hour trip to the beach hearing this hissing every 7 seconds drives me crazy. It will hiss then stop for seven seconds then hiss again.
View 14 Replies have been lurking the forum for the last several months ever since I bought my 2008 F150. I bought it used from a dealership and have had it at their shop no less than seven times since I bought it in March, all for the same things.
The first thing I noticed shortly after buying the truck was that after the truck warmed up it would idle rough. My chief complaint by far, I took the truck in to be looked at and this is when all the real fun began. Similarly I had intermittent power steering that I asked to have looked at.
I was told the fuel filter was completely clogged. They cleaned it and assured me all was well. They also bled the power steering system because apparently someone had changed the PS pump and not bled the system afterwards. I got into the truck to leave and it was idling no better than when I dropped it off. I complained again and was told that "this is just how this truck idles" and called BS. They offered to have the throttle body cleaned for me the next day to alleviate any remnants of rough idle.
Had the throttle body cleaned the next day and took the truck home. After about an hour or two I was still thoroughly dissatisfied with the idle and called back to complain. I forgot to mention that I bought my truck from a Chevrolet dealer who had just taken it in on trade about three days before I bought it. Because I complained they offered to send the truck to a Ford dealership for further diagnosis.
The Ford dealership found fouled plugs, a cracked intake manifold and the water pump and fan clutch both had excessive play. They said those would create a rocking sensation which could be misinterpreted as a rough idle. Over $2500 the Chevy dealership paid them and I was called to come pick up the truck.
I didn't even make it out of the parking lot because the truck was whining something fierce. I couldn't believe no one QC'd the vehicle and complained again. Next morning I am called and they said that the Ford dealership had put the intake manifold gasket in wrong and it had been corrected and I could come pick up the truck.
I go pick up the truck and note that not only is the idle still not right, but now the truck is making a hissing/squealing noise when the truck hits 1800/1900 RPM's. Its strange because its not really RPM specific as it is specific to the pedal position. Accelerating or decelerating causes it to go away but its there nonetheless. Whats worse is that in highway driving at 65 MPH, the pedal is in just the wrong position and it hisses constantly. This sound never goes away...and once its been heard its impossible to unhear.
I complain again and they send the truck back to the Ford dealership. At this point I'm dealing directly with the Director of Service because mine has become a high priority case. The Service Director drives with me, confirms my problem and takes the truck himself to Ford. He drives with their shop foreman and they too confirm the problem.
A week goes by and Ford tells him its wind noise. This is complete bullarky because it happens whether I'm going 20 or 65. He calls them on it and they keep the truck another couple days. They call back and say the truck has nothing mechanically wrong with it and that they are done. Service Director goes and picks up the truck and takes it to a second Ford dealership.
Three days go by and they call and claim Eureka! We've found the problem! Clogged catalytic converter causing air flow restrictions. They replace two converters and I go to pick up the truck. It runs like garbage. Further the sound is still there. Call Chevy, leave the truck and take their loaner back home. Next morning Ford's Foreman calls and basically tells me that there's nothing else wrong with my truck and that he even reprogrammed the PCM (which is why it runs to bad all the time now I guess) to get rid of the idle problems.
Long story short here's everything thats been done:
- Cleaned a clogged fuel filter
- Replaced fouled plugs
- Replaced the intake manifold and gaskets
- Replaced the fan belt
- Replaced the fan clutch
- Replaced the water pump
- Replaced two catalytic converters
- Cleaned the throttle body
- Bled the PS system
- Reprogrammed the PCM and transmission control module
After all of this I still have a hissing sound when I accelerate (video 1:
It seems the truck runs worse once its warmed up and even worse once the AC is turned on. I'm sure he programmed the PCM wrong and thats what is causing the truck to run rough.
I noticed my car hiss and hum from under the hook after shut down, for a few minutes. What is it doing?
View 4 Replies2008 F150 4.2l Popping noise cannot detect source. When the truck gets warm it makes popping noise while driving or parked with engine shut off. Noise is getting louder. This truck has about 50,000 miles on it."
View 1 RepliesI am almost 100% I have found the source of the rear wind intrusion that some of us are hearing. From day one, I have had a wind hissing noise from the rear door windows. After taking it to the dealer and them saying it was "normal", I have been on a mission to find the source of the noise. Well it is coming from a location that I never thought it would come from.
After trial and error, I found it is coming in around that shinny black triangle part in the rear door. There is a gap between the rubber and that plastic shinny triangle part. I used shinny black pinstripe that I got from an auto parts store to cover the gap. I test drove several times at speeds above 65mph and did not hear the noise. Unless you were looking close, you'd never know the pinstripe was there.
I got a 2007 f150 5.4 triton motor 94000 miles all stock just gots mod k&n filter top end rebuilt due to cam phasers and timing guides for the past year when i make a real sudden stop or sometimes quick turn the truck will bog a bit the i give it gas and will drop to 100 rpms and if i keep my foot on the gas the truck will die if i keep my foot off the gas it will keep rolling then die after attempting to accelerate fuel pump driver module is in good shape with spacers the old code i get when this happens is p0191 for fuel rail pressure sensor although i just replaced that what could it be?
View 1 RepliesI've got an 04' F150 and the ONLY problem I have with it is a ridiculously sluggish throttle. I bought the Superchips Tuner in hopes of eliminating this, but the delay in the throttle is still there (power is much better however). When I talk delay, I am talking hitting the gas and probably a realistic .5-1 sec delay. It is quite annoying to say the least.
My question...is there something that I can do myself to improve the throttle response? I drove an older 150..probably an 02 or 03 and it felt sooooo much more powerful just do to the throttle. I am even willing to ditch the Superchips if the Ford re-tune would do a better job.
I have a 2004 F150 4.6L... There is a slight hissing sound under the dash on the drivers side when you lightly press the accelerator and then stops. No matter what speed you are going as soon as you apply the accelerator it hisses then stops. There is also the same hissing , only louder when the engine is cut off. It hisses for about 3 seconds. What could be causing this. It has been idling rough since the hissing started. The check engine light is on and showing P0420 and P0430 codes . The cats were replaced with resonators so I believe that is the reason for the codes.
View 2 RepliesI have just purchased an 06 long bed f-150 with high mileage on it. I am going thru it slowly as time permits. I had found the passenger door stop, not the hinges, to be making a "quite" squeaking noise as it is started toward a closed position. A simple drop or two of oil I am thinking, but it then really increases in sound. I then clean it off and apply a synthetic grease, still loud, maybe louder. I finally got it back to a "quite" squeak again by cleaning it. Use lubricant, or should I just leave it cleaned as it is now?
View 1 RepliesUsually after I run the car in manual/sport mode, I begin to hear a high-pitched 'hissing/whistling' noise coming from the engine. It sounds like a vacuum leak. It is audible while driving with the windows down.
I am having problems pin pointing the source, but it sounds like its coming from the center block. What is the right direction to the leak? It starts exactly at 1500 and cuts off at 2200 rpm (while in gear). 1500 to 3000 rpm while in park..
I have a Takeda intake installed and I re-tighten the fittings.
My 04' FX4 rear door locks hesitate to open with the key fob or the door switch. I can get them to open sometimes but not every time. Why this is happening?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 ford F150 trition 4x4, I bought it in march, happen to notice that my head lights wouldn't shut off this afternoon after when I got home from town, after several phone calls n different ideas I resorted to removing a battery cable to keep my battery from dying, then tonight I decided to go to my dads, when I put the negative cable back in the battery I noticed it sparked. she drove fine there, got done visiting n on my way home my horn goes off n won't shut off till I stopped n turned the truck off, I drove all the way home with it blowing like crazy, I took the fuse out but my truck will not start with out the fuse!! I have to work tomorrow night n I have no clue what's going on!!
View 1 RepliesMy truck just shut down and now will not start//turn the key on it pulsates at the throttle under the hood and red security light pulsates same time.....I saw post a while back a truck had the same problem. I took the postive and neg off waited 2 hour put back on did nothing no codes come up either ......I was just driving along engine just shut down got it towed ....
View 3 RepliesAfter searching for the Prius that I wanted, I settled on a 2008 Prius Touring with 171xxx miles. The car was at a sales lot 300 miles away. After a few phone calls pertaining to the Prius, I arranged to meet the lot owner roughly 1/2 way in between for the purchase. We met. Owner said that several dash lights came on as they were driving to meet me. (Yes, I believe him.) He talked with his mechanic, and was told that the problem was most likely the ABS control module (p/n 44510-47050). Owner agreed to shipping me a good used ABS module and discounted the vehicle a bit. I drove it home.
The brake, (!), ABS, and VSC lights are "on"when the car is in the "ready" mode. The parking brake is not on. When I walk up to the car (with SKS fob in my pocket) and open the door, I hear a noise that sounds like water running through an outside faucet that's only partially opened. For identification purpose, I will refer to this noise as a "hissing" noise. When in "ready" mode , the ABS system "cycles", with about 4 seconds hissing, then about 10 seconds not hissing, repeated over and over.
In ready mode (under the hood), the inverter pump is humming away just fine, and the coolant can be seen flowing in it's reservoir. My biggest question is that I have read about others with the unwanted dash lights, but not any with this hissing noise. Does the ABS module replacement sound like it will most likely cure the problem?
And btw, after disconnecting both batteries and waiting for the proper time period, is it really necessary to use the insulated gloves? Years ago, I used Toyota repair manuals, and after receiving the Haynes manual, I'm a bit disappointed.
My 99 Camry solara is hissing when I start the engine and doesn't go away until the car is shut off ---- then it hisses a few seconds more, then quits.The heating / cooling isn't on and I just had the oil changed yesterday at 227,000+ miles. What this could be?
View 4 RepliesI've got an 06 F150, 5.4l crew cab lariat. So to start, I had a programmer screw up my ECU, so when I got it re programmed at ford, everything works except for the ABS sensors. I recently had someone break into my truck and broke my stereo when they couldn't get it out. So I was driving home from work the other day and lost my whole instrument cluster, windows wouldn't roll up or down, wipers worked very slowly until not at all. shut off the truck and wouldn't restart. I jumped it and started it. ran fine. with the exception of the previous problems. I noticed when it got dark out that my my taillights and head lights were on very dimly with the switch off. Also hearing a clicking sound coming from under the truck, at the back of the cab and front of the bed. the only thing electric that's back there is the fuel pump (i believe). I am at a complete loss.
View 5 Replies06 GX470 muffler exhaling white smoke for a while, now the smoke disappeared, however, a new hissing engine noise is evident. The noise increases with the revolutions of the engine and it never stops.
View 13 RepliesOk so long story short, my Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually, the installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut.
When I arm it, the 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but theres a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
can i change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? i want there to be NO delay, if possible. if not, i may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
I was driving my truck down my driveway and it just shut off, it will not start, when I turn on the key the fuel pump will not run and when I try to start it the engine will not turn over. Neither the starter or fuel pump relay click. When I turn the key to the on position all the lights and radio still work. When the key is on the small red light on top of the dash begins to flash rapidly. My boss tried to hook his snap-on scanner to the obd2 port but it will not let him retrieve any of the codes and continuously tells him to cycle the key through the on and off positions giving zero results.
View 14 Replies