Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Heater Either Works All Hot Or Cold / Temperature Not Consistent
Dec 9, 2012
I have an 08 that the heater either works all hot or cold. It seems that when i try to control the temp it isnt consistent. It will be on hot, turned all the way the right in the red. Great, it gets too warm in the truck so turn it down a little. Then it is too cold. I only turned it down a little, not even in the blue zone yet. I turn it up a little and it is still cold. Turn it all the way up and it is too hot again. What is up with this. I hope it isnt the blend door syndrome. The truck only has 30,000 on it.
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Recently my truck is only blowing heat or air conditioning on full blast in my 2004 Ford F-150 (New style, not heritage).
Level 1, 2, or 3 is exactly the same and blows almost nothing, then if I switch it to 4 it is full power.
I just don't know what exactly I will need to change. I know it would be a resistor pack somewhere that probably failed, I just don't know where it would be.
Do I just need a new control switch, or do I need a new heater fan?
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Yup, my truck randomly whistles while driving in cold temperatures. Its not life threatening or damaging to the truck, its been doing it for a few months not that its been getting below freezing. Its just REALLY annoying. I can even hear it over my radio at times, so its pretty dang loud outside of the truck. The noise originates from somewhere under the hood in the engine compartment.
Won't do it at lower speeds, usually on the freeway. Motors at about 2k rpm and im going roughly 65-70. Change the rpm when it whistles and it goes away. happens randomly from 50mph to 70mph engine speed from 1.8k to 2.5k rpm. I've tried to find it but can't find a darn thing since it won't make the noise while sitting in my driveway. What it might be?
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I have a 2007 f150 with the 5.4 in it and today I was driving it and my tempreture gauge randomly shot to cold and check engine light came on. Also can't even find the dam radiator cap due to too much plastic!!!
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My 2003 Buick Century heater works fine while accelerating but as soon as I release the gas the air begins to cool, swiftly. I have had the radiator flushed and the coolant topped off but the problem persists.
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I just bought a 1997 Toyota Tercel 5-speed stick, with 175,000 miles, and the temperature gauge moves from its lowest possible position to its highest possible position when the key is turned on, although the engine does not overheat, and no coolant is leaking or being burned. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor, but the actions of the gauge were not affected. I don't know if it is somehow related, but the heater blows cold, regardless the setting of the temperature dial on the dash. What I might try next?
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I am having my trouble with my 06 F150 with the 5.4 V8. I purchased the truck back in the spring and shortly after the truck started misfiring. It was throwing P0306 for cylinder 6 misfire and that was the only code thrown. Seeing as it was out of warranty and right at the 100k mark I replaced all the plugs with Motorcraft plugs, and the plugs that came out were Champion, so it had already been done at least once. This didnt solve my problem at all so I started digging deeper. I replaced the coil pack on the number six cylinder thinking it may have gone bad, but this did not fix my problem either. I had somehow overlooked that the number two cylinder had a Masterpro coil pack that was made in Taiwan or somewhere like that, and after using the Motorcraft coilpack I had pulled from number 6 on cylinder two all my problems went away...until recently.
At the beginning of August my truck started the infamous ticking sound that we all know about. I ignored it for a while, but as I was moving off to college the misifre returned while going down the interstate at around 65-70mph. The truck lost pretty much all power and I coasted off the next exit to see what was going on. After making it off the truck was running perfectly, so I poked on home on back roads at slower speeds to be safe. The next day I took it to the Ford dealership to have them run a full diagnostic scan to determine anything that could possibly be wrong. After sitting in the waiting room for three hours as they searched the guy comes in to let me know they have ran every test they could and nothing was showing up, but the lash adjusters (lifters) on the passenger side of the engine needed replaced as that was what was causing the ticking sound.
Well today I start my truck to come to school and it felt slightly different, but once I accelerated all was fine. Once i left school this was another story though. The CEL was on and the truck was misfiring enough to feel a consistant buck from the engine. I pulled the codes and it is now giving me P0307 and P0316 which are misfire in cylinder 7 and misfire upon startup. What could this be knowing all the plugs have recently been changed and the dealer just inspected the entire engine?
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I have a problem with my prius 2004. When i start my prius then the Fan is always on with coolest temperature and air-con is also on. How I fix this problem? Is there any reset method to off the fan when I push on the power button or any method fan works with hot temperature.
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I have that wonderful ticking noise... Here is some info on my truck: Its 133k, 5.3L 3V. I put new plugs in it and changed the oil (YES the right filter and oil).
Okay, so I'm trying to make sure my diagnosis is what I think it is before I start digging into the motor and get angry because I ordered the wrong parts.
Preface: I got the truck from a deal auction. I was told it ran great, well when I got it, it had this tick. It comes and goes as it pleases (not dependent on the weather or RPMS. The noise is consistent, it gets faster as RPMs rise, it doesn't go away after 1,200 rpms. This lead me to eliminate cam phasers as the issue.
Now here is something odd: After starting up the truck, initially it will be pretty quick and have great throttle response, but after that it will start act like someone put on the parking brake. It can barely accelerate and when you put it to the floor it gets worse. It seems to accelerate best at half throttle. The second part is the truck will shift, dropping the rpms incredibly low and the tick gets louder and more spaced out (leading me to think it's rpm dependent).
All of the noise seems to be localized around the passenger size head area. If I unplug the VCT solenoid the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud if I drive it the next day, and it doesn't do the shift into lower rpms and accelerates wonderfully. Leading me to think it's either the timing is off and when the phasers kick on it goes way out of time and causes it to go into limp mode...or the VCT solenoid is bad?
The ticking never fully goes away, but it has it's quiet days and LOUD days...
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I seem to recall my 4.2l oil and coolant temperature staying at a consistent 200 degrees, but now my oil temp seems to hover at or slightly above 180 while coolant remains at 200.
A 5 mile high speed uphill run brought the oil temp to about 190 degrees, but it soon settled to 180 once I slowed to 80mph.
So ambient temp is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit; however, that really shouldn't make a difference with a water cooled/thermostat engine, correct?
My main concern is that lower oil operating temperatures wont allow condensation to boil off.
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In the past month or so, I have had 2 instances of my 04 Escape being stubborn on start up. Both times, the engine will crank when I turn the key, but won't start up. After a 5 or so seconds of unsuccessfully trying, I turn the key to the off position, wait a second or so, then try it again - without fail, the car starts right up (well, almost - usually takes a turn or so longer than usual, but nothing too concerning) and runs normally. I am hoping that this is simply cold weather-related.
Each time it has happened, we have been experiencing lower temperatures after a day or two of 30+ degree days. I have a job that allows me to carpool most days, so the car usually only gets driven once or twice a week (a little over 20 miles each day I drive it) - with the cold weather, and the fact that I just replaced the battery last month, I have been trying my best to start the car and let it warm up every few days to keep the battery somewhat charged. Again, this has only happened two times - both times have gone the exact same way. Is this related to the cold, or could I be seeing the beginnings of a more expensive issue?
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1998 Honda Civic EX. This has been a great car and have got a ton of good miles on it. The problem that I am having now is with the temperature gauge. The measurement is completely all over the place while driving. While moving around town, the gauge shows the temperature VERY hot. As soon as I reach a consistent speed, the temperature drops back to normal (moves very erratically!). The gauge seems to get even hotter while idling. Another issue (may or may not be related) is the heat coming out of the vents is only working while the car is in motion. While stopped, it pumps out cold air. The temperature immediately changes when I get going again. Both problems seem to be getting worse. The car has coolant, and all other levels of fluids are normal.
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Just bought a 04' F250, new head studs and gaskets. Put a tranny temp sensor in and replaced bad thermostat. My coolant res is full and temp is bout 185 (it's 10* outside). My heater is blowing out cold air, I'm assuming there's air in the system.
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My 2004 with 5.4L Lariat is struggling to keep me cool. The AC works fine on mild days but when it gets into the upper 80s it works for about 10 mins then goes warm. If I shut down the AC for about 5-10 mins. it begins cooling again.
I first tried a retail charging kit with no improvement. Then I had the system drained and refilled with die to look for leaks, but neither had any immediate impact. So it is not a leak, but something else failing.
What are the next best troubleshooting steps for an AC system?
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5.4 V8... A/C works for 30min. then stops blowing cold air. Turn system off for 15min. and it will blow cold air again for another 15min. then stops again. Passenger floor area gets cold and can hear fan blowing but no air coming out of vents.
In winter now and stops blowing hot air after 30-40min of driving. Turn system off for 15min. and will blow hot again. Had new A/C compressor and a/c clutch installed back in summer.???
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Winter is coming and I am running into a problem, I tried to set my heat at the highest level today and was getting nothing but cold air. I get ice cold A/C, but no heat at any temperature. What could be the culprit?
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I have an 06 f150 xlt 4wd 5.4. I bought the truck about two months ago and have come to realize that my 4wd is not working. The light works and you can hear the clunk but recently we got alot of rain and i was going down a georgia clay dirt road and almost got stuck in the middle of the road. i tried 4hi and 4lo but only the rear wheels would spin. I had my wife put it in 4wd while i looked under the truck and the half shafts do turn in 4wd. which doesn't make any sense to me. I also unplugged to vacuum line from the intake and capped it off to try and let the hubs engage that way but still nothing. why would the half shafts be turning but no power to the front wheels in 4wd? does that mean the iwe's are stuck engaged? Which would explain why they turn all the time. But if they are engaged, whether they are stuck or vacuum leak or whatever the reason, shouldn't the front wheels be getting power.
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I have a 2006 F-150 S/Crew and I seem to have the same intermittant odometer problem as many of the folks in that 1999-2003 group. The odometer comes and goes, flashes intermittantly and sometimes doesn't work for days.
Can it be repaired in the same fashion as those older units? The dealer is more than willing to sell me a new cluster (obviously). They say that there is "no way to possibly repair those odometer problems and we see them all the time."
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As the title states, my odometer back light works just fine, but nothing displays on it. No mileage reading, no nothing. How to fix it? Found plenty about fixing the back light, but can't find anything similar to this issue.
I've had the battery off for 30-40 minutes and the issue persists after restarting.
2004 F150 XLT SuperCab 5.4L
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on my 04 supercab f150. one moment door locks work, the next nothing. started this weekend. its a bone stock truck with 128000 miles. sometimes work sometimes don't. have wiggled harness and connections outside the door. worked fine, pulled it out of the shop and parked it now not working again.
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I have a 2004 2nd generation Toyota Harrier (Lexus model RX330). The A/C blowing hot air if temperature is not set to Max Cold. This happened no matter whether turn on the A/C with Auto or Manual setting. This case also happen no matter whether setting the A/C system to Dual mode or not, no matter whether turn on or off the air intake control button.
As long as A/C on, cold air only come out when temperature set to Max Cold, even if set to 18 degree, full hot air come out. Another thing is, say I have the A/C on, set to max cold, cold air came out from the front vent, but after I try to increase the temperature to say 18 degree, the hot air flow will change to Floor/Windshield mode.
Could it because due to the change of the battery? Is there anything need to reset after replacing the battery?
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