Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Headlights Wouldn't Shut Off
Oct 9, 2015
I have a 2004 ford F150 trition 4x4, I bought it in march, happen to notice that my head lights wouldn't shut off this afternoon after when I got home from town, after several phone calls n different ideas I resorted to removing a battery cable to keep my battery from dying, then tonight I decided to go to my dads, when I put the negative cable back in the battery I noticed it sparked. she drove fine there, got done visiting n on my way home my horn goes off n won't shut off till I stopped n turned the truck off, I drove all the way home with it blowing like crazy, I took the fuse out but my truck will not start with out the fuse!! I have to work tomorrow night n I have no clue what's going on!!
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What happened is I went to get in the truck I opened the door and the gauges and blower motor came on by itself like the ignition is in the on position. I put the key in the ignition and the truck didn't do anything. No crank or anything and I did notice the anti theft light blinking really fast. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back up then the truck started but I went to shut it off and pulled the key out the ignition and truck stayed running. But also the blower in the truck and the gauges are still staying on. People keep saying it's my key but why would the stuff cut on by itself inside the truck when I just opened the door?
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My Prius engine wouldn't shut off when the button was pushed. The Toyota dealer was clueless.
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For the last little while I have been having an issue with the 4wd in my 2006 F-150 with about 93k on the clock. Sometimes it would engage when I switched to 4H/4L and other times it wouldn't. A friend of mine works at a Ford dealership and said it could be the vacuum solenoid on the firewall going bad. So I bought a new one and as I removed the old one, noticed debris in one of the inlets. So I cleaned that out and neither old or new solved the problem. Then I went through ALL of the vacuum lines and found some debris in parts of them....
Cleaned them all out and still nothing. Then I got to thinking it may be the ESOF motor on the transfer case. Checked to make sure there was power to the plug, which there was. Removed the motor and turned switch, and the motor seemed to be working. Reattached the motor and the 4wd would engage/disengage without problem. Pretty much everywhere I went I would check it and it worked fine . Then all of a sudden it didn't . So I took the motor off, turned selector and it worked fine. No issues yesterday at all.
So, I am not sure if it is the motor going bad or not. Could there be a contact problem? I talked to a mechanic this morning and he told me to drive around with it in 4H for a while because more times than not it doesn't get used enough. I'm just not sure what could be going on...am I missing something?
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I just got a 2004 F-150 XLT. 200k miles AT. The problem is that it won't start. The previous owner was driving it when it suddenly died and wouldn't crank over. He was told by an auto shop it neded a new engine.
I don't think it needs a new engine because it stopped while driving. I may be wrong. I put a new battery in it. When I turn the key to start it, it just makes one loud click and doesn't do anything else. The oil and coolant look fine. What may be wrong with it or how to see if the engine is bad?
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-15 degrees at 7:30 this morning and my F-150 4.6L started just fine. At 9:30 and -6 engine would turn over well but wouldn't start. When I shut the key off, I would hear a "vibration" from the area of the instrument panel and the speedometer needle would shake for about 15 seconds then quit. At 1:30 the truck started fine but the trip odometer had rest to 0.0. What happened and where to start looking?
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I have a ford ranger 1996 4 cylinder. The truck was driving fine then all of the sudden it shut off and wouldn't start... I checked spark and that is fine also changed fuel pump and made no difference. We also sprayed lighter fluid and that did nothing. It sounds like it wants to start but wont.
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So I turned off my truck the other day, got out, and it started again on its own. Confused, I looked in my hand to see my key. I got back in, and tapped the brake thinking the command start had engaged, even though I did not have the remote with me. It continued to run. So I put the key back in the ignition, turned it to ON and back OFF. It still ran. I had to run inside for a half a minute so I left it running.
Came back and drove away with no issues. When I stopped again about 2 minutes later and shifted to PARK, the starter engaged making it's terrible 'hey stupid, I'm already running' sound. I tried shutting it OFF quickly but it still ran and made it's skinning crawling noise. So I quickly shifted back to DRIVE. All the gears worked fine but PARK and NEUTRAL had the starter engaging. I also could not shut the truck off from DRIVE as the key would not turn.
I drove over to a local garage and called them from the truck as I was effectively trapped in the truck with my foot on the brake, unable to shift to PARK or turn it OFF. No supporting staff. So I drove back to work where I had a co-worker remove the battery cable at which point I was able to shift to PARK and turn OFF the truck. I let it sit like that for about 10 minutes and haven't had a problem since.
What happened?? And for the record I can put gas in the tank and changed my own oil, but that is the extent of my vehicle knowledge.
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Last fall had one day for about three miles where wipers and washer wouldn't shut off. Now they won't stop at all. Thought the multi switch might be bad, removed whole switch and unhooked. Washer pump and wipers were still on and wouldn't shut off. Had to pull the fuse.
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Ok truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
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My state requires headlights to be on when wipers are on. Is there a known way to rig this on a 2006 F150 with the auto headlight setup? Link to a DIY somewhere? I'd expect to have to wire in a relay at the very least.
BTW, I tried searching for "headlights wipers" but repeatedly got
"Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.
Push the back button and reload the previous window."
Did the back/reload thing several times to no avail.
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Here's the story, got in my car yesterday and the AC wasnt working, after driving for about 20 minutes in traffic, the AC came back on, about 5 mins and half a mile later, the engine shut off and wouldn't start up again. Had the car towed to the closest garage (not a VW mechanic). This morning, he tried to start it and it fired right up with no problems. He drove it and let it run and everything seemed fine. He ran diagnostics on it and said the computer didn't detect any problems. Picked up the car, and now the AC is blowing hot air, but the engine seems to be running ok.
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My truck just shut down and now will not start//turn the key on it pulsates at the throttle under the hood and red security light pulsates same time.....I saw post a while back a truck had the same problem. I took the postive and neg off waited 2 hour put back on did nothing no codes come up either ......I was just driving along engine just shut down got it towed ....
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My headlights aren't that bright on my Lariat so I'm thinking about replacing them with after market.
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Fog lights work with parking brakes but not with headlights. High beams are not on...
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I was having a problem where my headlights were turning off every time I would turn my directional signals on (2004 F150). Started out that it was mainly during left turns, but recently it affected right turns as well. Did a bit of google research as well as asking a mechanic to take a look at it while he was repairing something else, and all signs seemed to point to a bad multifunction switch.
So I replaced the mfs, and now my headlights don't work at all. The high beams work when I flash them, but not when I click them on fully. The parking lights work as well as the directionals. Took the truck into Ford and they are saying the headlight switch is bad. Does this sound right? After blowing $100+ on a mfs I'd hate to drop on a headlight switch only to find that it too, doesn't fix the problem. Not to mention NOBODY around here seems to carry the switch in stock. I checked the 2 fuses for the headlights and they looked fine.
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2006 SuperCrew, 2WD 4.6L with 117K miles. Headlights will not turn off. totally drained battery. I replaced dead battery wit a fresh one. truck started right up. Headlights on. I turned switch to right and left, and 'clicks' sounded and seemed normal. Headlights on. Turned truck off and pushed button on key fob. Headlights still on. Disconnected new battery and trying to figure this out.
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I just bought a 2015 Forester Limited and have put about 1000 miles on it. I love it, and it's the first new car I've owned in a long time, as well as my first Subaru. I regret to say that I've had already had some trouble it, which I hope does not portend future issues. I have had some problems with the power lift gate not opening using the button on the dash- it beeps three times but doesn't open, regardless of the position of the key in the ignition (car is always in park when I attempt it, and the owner's manual indicates that it is supposed to beep twice before it opens).
If I first use the key fob to open and then close it, I'm able to get the button to open the gate but why the gate won't initially respond to the switch on the dash. It's worth noting that this doesn't happen every time I try to open the lift gate using the button, so I've been unable to reproduce the problem for the dealer. Is there a software reset that could fix this, or is it an electrical issue?
The second issue is another intermittent one: the entire heating and cooling system wouldn't turn on after being shut off. I drove a couple hours with the AC on, shut the AC off, parked the car and then restarted it after an hour. When I tried to turn on the AC, I was unable to do so- the entire heating and cooling system was unresponsive. The AC button wasn't responding, I couldn't adjust the fan level, and the mode selector (vent/floor/defroster) wasn't responding either. I pulled over, shut the car off and restarted it and was able to turn on the AC without incident.
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I've got an 06 F150, 5.4l crew cab lariat. So to start, I had a programmer screw up my ECU, so when I got it re programmed at ford, everything works except for the ABS sensors. I recently had someone break into my truck and broke my stereo when they couldn't get it out. So I was driving home from work the other day and lost my whole instrument cluster, windows wouldn't roll up or down, wipers worked very slowly until not at all. shut off the truck and wouldn't restart. I jumped it and started it. ran fine. with the exception of the previous problems. I noticed when it got dark out that my my taillights and head lights were on very dimly with the switch off. Also hearing a clicking sound coming from under the truck, at the back of the cab and front of the bed. the only thing electric that's back there is the fuel pump (i believe). I am at a complete loss.
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I was driving my truck down my driveway and it just shut off, it will not start, when I turn on the key the fuel pump will not run and when I try to start it the engine will not turn over. Neither the starter or fuel pump relay click. When I turn the key to the on position all the lights and radio still work. When the key is on the small red light on top of the dash begins to flash rapidly. My boss tried to hook his snap-on scanner to the obd2 port but it will not let him retrieve any of the codes and continuously tells him to cycle the key through the on and off positions giving zero results.
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I was driving and shut off the truck to get gas after that the heater will not turn back on. I checked the fuses but was wondering if there is anything else. I would suspect this is more electrical. It is cold. 2006 150 4x4....
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