Wife just called on her way home from work and said the brakes grind when she pushes the pedal down. 08 with 39000. What am I in for and what kind of tools do I need? I'll pull off the wheels in the morning and take a look. Everybody seems to say the newer trucks go bad in the rear first,and she never uses the e- brake.
View 10 RepliesI am guessing my brake pads are going but figured I'd check with the forum first. What does it mean when you press down and about 3/4 of the way you start hearing this grinding noise almost like two pieces of iron are grinding across eachother?
View 19 RepliesI just changed all my flex lines to stainless steel and my pads and rotors were replaced. I had some issues with calipers dragging. I used a power bleeder to bleed the brakes all the way around. Now my pedal feels really weird. If I push the pedal fast it brakes hard then it goes to the floor. If i just push it soft, it will just slowly go to the floor without braking at all.
View 3 RepliesI recently had my rotors replaced and when I left the garage I noticed I had to press the brake farther than normal. A few days later, I have to press the brake pedal almost all the way to the floor. My brakes sound like there is an air leak when I push the pedal. Sometimes it stutters at the top of the push.
First question is what could it be? The second question is, could this have been caused by the rotor replacement? Seems awfully coincidental.
Its a 2007 f150 v6. has 55,000 miles. just got her new tires for Christmas. the truck has doing this for awhile. when you use the brakes the pedal pulsates and the truck jerks back and forth. Feels like bent rotor or something. I've been doing it about a year keeps getting worse. Last year I had the rotors turned and put new pads on got a little better. But not for long continued to get worse again. So I just bought new rotors and pads and still sucks. I thought it could be a bent rim so I just rotated the tires and still no better. Where should i go from here? calipers? something in the front end loose?
View 4 RepliesI drove my 2005 Prius 2 hours and parked it for 5 hours. No problems on the trip down. I got back in it and it started up just fine. I was sitting in the parking lot with my foot on the brake (hadn't moved yet) and the following occurred:
The brake pedal seemed to push back on my foot
The red exclamation point illuminated
The yellow exclamation point illuminated
The ABS light illuminated
The VSC light illuminated
The red parking brake light illuminated (not shown)
All of these lights point to the skid ECU. It seems like my skid ECU is toast or something called the ABS & BA & TRAC & VSC Actuator is an issue (never heard of it but I see it connected to the skid ECU). I did a visual check of what I could and everything seemed in order. I pulled a bunch of fuses and I didn't notice any that were blown. (I didn't pull them all but will tomorrow)
After not finding anything, I drove back home. As expected, I had no regen but the bigger problem was that I had no power assist on the brakes. A few times I actually did skid and the car brakes really bad without regen or power assist. If it was raining or snowing I could definitely see a hazardous situation.
I'm kind of at a loss here. Tomorrow I'll pull the kick panel down and see if the skid ECU is getting power but I can't think of anything else that would cause this situation.
2008 Passat Komfort Wagon with 34,500 miles. Started to get grinding sound when I applied brakes, which diminishes as I drive. Thought it was rust, but sound is very loud and sounds just like pads are gone and digging into rotors. The brake warning light is not on.
Dealer told me rear caliper was closing unevenly and recommended service---not covered by warranty of course. When I picked-up car same noise as before. The service manager told be that the car was just washed and the rust built up in the last hour---I could believe some built-up, but the sounds made my teeth ache. When we went for a test drive the noise got quiter, but was still apparent. The SM told me this is a "normal" noise. I have had many cars with disc brakes, dating back to a 1960 Jaguar; none have made this "normal" sound.
The brakes will not engage until the brake peddle is at least 1/3 of the way down, resulting in a big delay in time to stop. In stop and go traffic it is very dangerous. I have to actually "ride" the brake in rush hour traffic in order to be ready for a quick traffic problem as this brake system is very slow to respond. This is obviously a safety flaw in manufacturing or design but it must be fixed as its not a matter of if an accident will occur but when will it occur. I test drove another LX 570 and found the same brake issue with that unit as well.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 F150 4x4 Fx4 supercrew with 5.4 engine and 46,000 miles. For the past three weeks now I have a periodic Grinding /scraping sound that seems to be coming from the front passenger's side of the truck. It can come on with light driving and braking in town or start while driving 70 mph down the interstate without even touching my brakes. The thing is I just about always have to come to a complete stop to make it go away. 10 Minutes later it comes again. It's loud enough for everyone around me to start staring at my truck. Sounds like metal scraping concrete and gets deeper as I slow down and when I fully press my brake pedal it goes "curchunk and the sound is gone for a while. I thought maybe my caliper was sticking or maybe the truck is trying to go into 4x4. One friend even suggested me to check the dust cover behind the brake for rocks.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1997 ford aerostar van that i recently acquired through some family,when i got it it was running fine but has recently started having troubles.The Question i have is this i put my car in drive or reverse and push the gas pedal the car doesn't move.....we have tried putting transmission fluid into it and that worked temporarily. What it could be except just a bad transmission?
View 2 RepliesOk, my brakes have felt the same since I got the truck. I push a little harder than I should have to (not a hard pedal, but further to the floor than normal to where it's harder to push) get the truck to stop. If I want to brake check someone that's riding my bumper I have to REALLY smash the pedal and even then it doesn't grab hard or lock up. Since I have owned the truck I have put all new pads, rotors, and calipers on, Russel braided lines front and rear (all 3 on the rear), and flushed ALL of the old fluid from the truck (Twitch and I went through 2 large bottles when we did the brakes).
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After all of this there has been no change in my brakes at all. Not one bit. What's odd is sometimes after it rains when I first get in the truck the first time I stop I get massive awesome brakes, but just the once. I never have a spongy pedal, and I never lose pressure, I just have brakes.
I have a 2008 GC with the E-Brake calipers in the back. I changed the brakes and rotors all around and now the petal goes to the floor. I know it has something to do with the rear brakes, because I did the fronts first and after a few pumps I had good petal.
I've done these types of rear brakes before, you use a tool to turn the caliper in. Is there anything I missed? Did I turn it in too much? I don't think it is the master cylinder because it was fine before I started and fine after I did the fronts.
Also, the e-brake doesn't hold at all now, so that's another reason I think the problem is in the rear calipers. Maybe an Adjustment? There's nothing leaking, either.
I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
I have a hesitation/stalling issue with my explorer. Started about 2 months ago and can't figure it out. It began with truck feeling like gas wasn't getting to it and it was kicking as if it were getting it, but not at the right times. Asked around was told the throttle body positioner may be going bad as well as fuel filter might be getting clogged. Replaced both and it seemed like it worked as it felt like it was driving ok, but it was all in town driving. Took to interstate and began kicking again. Then, it started to misfire?? or lose power in town and would stall at lights and or turns. Talked to some other people and said it might be my Intake air control valve and or gaskets are leaking from the upper/lower intake.
I got new IAC and got new gaskets and cleaned lower intake and changed oil as well. It ran great for about a day or 2. Got it on HWY and around town and it was great. Now runs absolutely horrible. Feels like it stutters when it idles and when I push gas pedal I get the smell of gas and it wants to die. When pulling off upper lower intake unnoticed that the long screw to upper intake weren't all the way down in the back. I made sure to bolt them down tightly. I was told today to try and reset the computer by detaching the negative battery cable and using a wire to attach that detached cable to the power cable. Then to reattach, turn key to get accessories going for 10 sec, start and idle for te min, turn on lights for about 1 min, followed by radio and then ac. Then test drive for 10min or so. This may have made it worse??
I'm not a mechanic by any means but believe I hooked up everything correctly as it ran great for a day or 2. Also, a bit back I had P0107 bank one lean code pulled up. No engine light has ever come on. Have not had it rescanned since I replaced IAC and gaskets. Just don't know where to turn next. I also cleaned MAF, put in new air filter. 1998 explorer 4.0 SOHC....
I am pretty sure my pedal is going.. Today and last month it would just die from a dead stop push the pedal and no go, but truck idling fine. I cleaned it off a few weeks ago but now its back. push pedal in and out a few times and all is fine for a few weeks. Truck runs fine other than that. Does not throw a code, just trans light comes on because no movement I think, then it goes off as soon as i start to move along. I have a adjustable pedal assembly 2c3z-9f836-de 508.45 at white bear lake ford.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
View 4 RepliesIf this was my car or older truck I would know what the deal was. First hill I came down in my recently bought 2003 F250 the pedal pulsed a bit as I tried to slow down...is this the way ABS brakes behave? Never had them on a truck before...she stopped ok but don't know if they are warped or normal ...I'll pull wheels later (not a daily driver)...
View 7 RepliesRead everything I could and couldn't find a problem/solution similar to mine:
- Replaced broken (in three pieces) actuator on driver's side. Also replaced hub assembly (bearings went bad). Afterward started getting the grinding noise all the time in 2wd that goes away in 4HI.
- Replaced the entire hose assembly since I was not getting vacuum at driver side end hose. Still wasn't getting vacuum, turns out passenger side actuator diaphram was completely torn up as well (checked vacuum with hose on passenger actuator, not removing and plugging like I should have), so replaced the passenger side actuator too.
- Driver side grinding noise went away completely, now getting grinding noise on passenger side ONLY WHEN PRESSING ACCELERATOR. Take foot off accelerator and coast down road/highway noise goes away. Noise also goes away when putting truck in 4HI.
My latest actions: I've checked vacuum at both ends of hose while someone in park throttles truck up to 3k rpm, vacuum doesn't appear to change at either hose end while opposite side is attached to its actuator. Replaced passenger side actuator again thinking the first was defective, no change in grinding noise. Greased ring on wheel hub where actuator attaches thinking I was getting a leak at the actuator/hub seal, no change. Still only a grinding noise when accelerating, not while coasting with truck running.
The perplexing part: If it is a vacuum issue, how is it I am getting good enough vacuum from the driver side but not from the passenger side, since the driver side hose connection is downstream from the passenger side? Also, how am I not seeing the vacuum drop when checking at the hose end of either side while someone throttles truck up in rpms?
My thoughts: Definitely a vacuum leak somewhere in the system, minor enough to not notice right away on gauge, thinking to check the vacuum box and check valves next. Also thinking the passenger side hose from solenoid has a small leak causing the issue on the passenger side and not the driver side anymore, so thinking of putting the old hose back in to see if there is any change (I had replaced the hose prior to knowing the passenger actuator was torn up so I am not sure if the hose is really bad).
3-piece actuator I described above in picture for reference. Honestly I was not surprised, this has been my luck with this truck.
My 2012 f350 6 lift when I push the brakes it pulls to the left kinda bad and the steering wheel is off to the right..
View 4 RepliesAfter putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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