This might be a dumb question but I see trucks where they aren't lifted much and the tires look like they are out so wide. Idk how to explain it. They look like the front and rear end are wider than the rest of the vehicle aND sticks out farther. What this is or how to make my truck look like that? I assume it's some type of extensions for the front and rear end....
View 11 RepliesGotta 04 Lariet supercrew F150, leather buckets. How do I get head rests out of seat? I raise em up, squeeze button. Won't come out.
View 3 RepliesI just purchased a 2005 F150 (4.6L / 4 door). The lot I purchased it from had picked it up at auction. Tell-Tell signs indicate it was a repo. (Only one key, no fobs, locking fuel filler door jimmied and spring removed, scratches on upper corner of driver's side door and rubber bent back.
The power locks switch on arm rest works on all doors except driver's. The drivers door does lock and unlock manually. I am wanting a good hypothesis before I begin tearing into the door panel.
If the latching mechanism was damaged, it wouldn't lock manually, right? If the electronics were damaged the other doors wouldn't work right? So, my hypothesis is the actuator on driver's door. Do I start searching for/locating possible replacement parts?
I noticed the rear end of my F-150 starting to leak from the front of the rear end. What will I need to do to fix it and is there a quick way to fix this issue, as two kids unfortunately prevent me from having much time to fix the issue.
View 5 RepliesMy 05 f150 is lift with a 6" skyjacker lift I've only had it a week from the dealership when it stopped firing on cylinder 8 which is a lil problem easy to fix,but then it started clunking around turns in the front and rear end. So I took it the dealer and 3 days later they give it back. It's running good but its still clunking in the front they said they changed the cv joints and tie rod ends but after I got home. I inspected it they changed one damn tie rod and that was it. Is it the tie rod end that's still making the noise?
View 1 RepliesI've got a Chevy Malibu with roughly 120K miles on it. It runs relatively well - when it starts - which is why I'm here, obviously. The battery is brand new with all the connections seeming to be great, so I doubt it's an electrical issue in that regard.
Furthermore, in cases where the car doesn't start, almost always it's on an incline where the gas tank is lower than the rest of the vehicle.
When it's either level or higher than the rest, it seems to start up fine, which has led me to wonder if it's something to do with the fuel intake (note that the car doesn't stall at all - it simply won't start in the adverse conditions I said here).
I have an 05 V8. When backing out of a parking spot at close to full lock I feel it binding a bit. Also, occasionally when pulling forward (at or close to full lock) it will bind for a few seconds, then it feels like it releases. I recently drove a long (10 hours) trip and when I parked it when hot it seemed to bind/chatter even worse.
I also noticed that on slow hard turn (i.e parking lot) there seems to be a low pitched moaning sound from the rear end area. It it possible it a dreaded stepper motor, even on a 05? It is an early 05. What this might be before doing this so they don't jerk me around and say there's nothing wrong.
I'm having steady oil leakage on my S60. Coming from front right of vehicle, opposite turbo side. Took it to a mechanic and they diagnosed it as an oil hose leading from engine to turbo. Replaced it and it is still leaking from the engine. Hose showed no cracks or seal problems, so that wasn't it. Mechanic is taking the axle off to see if it is an engine block crack. If it is...welding aluminum is tough, I'm told, so it might need a new engine. Car has 101,000 miles and has had no other problems before this. Not sure I want to drop that much coin on a car that is getting older.
Could there be other culprits besides the engine block being cracked? I have been looking at some forums and see that PCV lines can get clogged, leading to an increase in pressure. Others mention the oil trap being plugged, and others mention a link between the cooling system and the oil line. The leak appears to be unrelated to the turbo, as that is dry, and is coming from the engine, but high enough that the mechanic can't see it without taking the axle off. What might make this problem occur besides a cracked engine block?
04 explorer, When traveling under throttle the thing runs smooth, when letting off accelerator, there's a rumble from, what seems like, the rear of the vehicle, when I press the accelerator, it almost "clunks" and acts fine once it's under acceleration again. Should I suspect my rear end gears going out, or something simple like a universal joint.
View 1 RepliesThe noise is related to vehicle speed, not engine speed. Easiest to hear when all is quite coasting at 30mph. Sounds like the front. It just started the other day.
The noise sounds like moan from airplanes high ahead (think WW2 movies). I replaced the front springs and shocks a few thousand miles ago and did not get it realigned. No noise until now. The tires are good and feel smooth (no sign of cupping, feathering,..). It is 4wd. How best to tell if it is wheel bearing? Rear end? Get it aligned?
I have an 05 F150 2WD Auto, 4.2 (work truck)...I have owned it since new, no accidents , no towing...used as an "extra car." It now has about 36K on it. About a month ago, I noticed a vibration felt throughout the vehicle. You definitely feel it in your backside and the rear of the truck. I have since purchased new tires, roadforced balanced twice, and also just had the front and rear u joints replaced. (the shop said the center was rather difficult to replace and would require sending the driveshaft out to replace) Nevertheless, the front and rear were replaced. They said the center u joint "seems" fine however.
The tires and wheels are pretty much perfect. The vibration begins around 30 mph or so and is most evident to around 50 mph...both on acceleration AND deceleration.
I broke my passenger side mirror on my '07 and I have a guy that will sell me a set off of a 2012... will they fit?
View 2 RepliesWhen I start my vehicle, it makes a grinding noise, sounds like it's coming from the front of the vehicle, when I put into gear it stops. It started gradual and is getting worse. It's a 6 cylinder automatic, with 108 k miles.
View 3 RepliesI just picked up a 2004 ford escape and information is difficult for me to obtain. Person I purchased from had all new suspension installed. Says it needs new transmission.
My indications: Vehicle starts right up dies/stalls with anything above throttle. Major lack of power. Was able to put in Reverse and it moved a bit and same as drive. Smoke from rear of engine. Seems like coolant dumping into exhaust. shake on exhaust you can hear slosh slosh in exhaust.
No engine trouble codes no lights on dash.
Am I looking at a headgasket? This has the 3.0 duratec v6 with the water pump belt driven by the cam on the driver side. Open up the oil cap there is the timing chain. serpentine belt is on passenger side of engine. There is no coolant/water in the engine oil but the coolant is disappearing FAST. no coolant on spark plugs that indicate its in the cylendars.
Was going to check compression but the compression tester I have only threads up to 14mm. to small for the hole. I can probably rent a tester with proper sizes if needed. Fuel pressure at the rail primes to 60 psi and stays there. Stays at 60 psi while running as well.
I have a 2016 F350 super cab and I can't figure out how to remove the rear head rest. Short of taking out my sawsall and cutting them off. How to get them off...
View 12 RepliesSo, I bought a set of seat covers yesterday and I'm trying to install them this morning. Surprise, surprise!! The head rests won't come out. I tried pushing the little button and pulling up hard, No good. I look for a little clip or some other retaining device. Nothing. How do I get the front head rests out?
View 5 RepliesI have a sub in my passat facing the the back of the seats. When i pump up the volume the armrest rattles with the bass, really annoyed at this. Maybe the armrest needs to be opened up and filled with sponge type material. I dont mind loosing the cup holders.
View 4 RepliesSince we bought the GX470 we have been plagued by obnoxious squeaking coming from somewhere in the rear of the vehicle. The squeaking occurs whenever driving over very bumpy roads or under hard braking and sounds like plastic on metal. While wiping down the windows I happened to bump the plastic shroud encasing the top of the rear hatch(barn door). This produced noise similar to that heard while driving.
I am thinking that there must be something loose in the rear hatch causing this terrible noise. There must be a way to tighten the plastic shroud up or add some foam insulation to get rid of the noise.
I recently had my rear axle seals replaced due to leaking. Does the rear diff fluid get replaced on that repair since the rear diff cover comes off? Trying to figure out when my next interval for changing rear diff fluid should be.
View 1 RepliesI have a noise that has been driving me crazy for a week now. After some investigation I have discounted a few things. To sum up the noise, it seems to be coming from under the vehicle, maybe the passenger rear. It sounds kinda like a jack hammer and it is loud. People on the street can hear it well! There is no consistency in it. I do not here it standing still and it only appears when I am driving. The speed does not matter.
While driving, it will come and go, it will last from 5 seconds to up to 30 seconds. While driving along, it starts, then stops abruptly without dying down. The speed of the "knocking" will follow the speed of the vehicle. If Im going slow (20 mph) it will knock at a slower pace, thus going 65, it is 2 a second. There is nothing loose, I have ruled that out.
Although it does sound like something loose and hitting. I can feel it slightly on the floorboard under the pedals and passenger side. I have to believe it is the rear u-joint? but that was replaced 2 years ago, and I have never heard of a u-joint making this noise.
I have a 2008 Prius. I drove it around in Florida for a few days and everything ran great, but about 4 hours into the trip back to Minnesota, the red ! triangle light came on with a message on the display screen. It said "There is a problem with the transmission "P" lock mechanism Park your your car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake." This happened as I was driving, so I pulled over and did what it told me. After shutting down the car, I tried starting it back up and none of the gears worked. P, R, D, or B.
The message still displayed and the red ! light was still on. After shutting it on off several times, it finally started. No warnings. I found the nearest Toyota dealer and had them check it out. They found nothing but one short circuit, around the same time the warning lights would have gone on. I googled the problem, and it seemed like everyone was saying the problem is caused by a bad 12V battery, so I told the dealer to put in a new one. I was on the road again. However, the first stop I made for gas and sure enough, the light came back and I couldn't get it into a gear without restarting the car several times. I just hope I won't need to spend any more money on this 2 year old car.