Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Front 4x4 Hubs Always Locked - Vacuum Is Too Low Under Hard Acceleration
Oct 2, 2015
I have an 04 F150 (4.6, auto, 4x4, SCrew) with 300,000 miles. Any success modifying existing 4X4 IWE actuators so they are always locked in?
My last set of actuators didn't last long My vacuum is too low under hard acceleration... Actuators partially engage leading to early failure.
I'd like to take an actuator apart, modify it so it's always locked in. Some loss of mileage? Other ramifications?
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2009 f150 4x4. My front hubs are ratcheting, I probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. Any trick to find it? I had to drive about 90 kilometers to get home, hope I didn't ruin anything. I don't have a vacuum pump, but I have a vacuum gauge.
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2004 fx4, transfer case engages, but front wheels won't engage. I assume the vacuum solenoid is stuck, any other thoughts?
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Is it ok to keep my front hubs locked in and the switch in the 2wd position for everyday driving? Only reason I do it is because in auto it doesn't always go into 4wd.
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(2004 f150 S.Crew 4x4) I noticed that my 4 wheel drive is not working. The front hubs won't lock in. The transfer case will go into 4 low but the hubs still won't lock in.
Anyway, I have pulled vacuum on both actuators and one of them won't hold. It's obviously bad, but is that why I don't have 4x4? It seems to me like it is not...
When I pull a vacuum on the actuator that does hold, it disengages the hub from the driveshaft allowing free-wheeling. Correct me if I'm wrong, but when the truck is running in 2wd, vacuum must flow to the actuators preventing the hubs from engaging? The actuator on the bad side is locked 'in' so the driveshaft always turns.
According to my train of thought, since the actuator has failed in the 'locked in' position, I should still have 4x4- What am I missing?
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2008 F350 hubs wont stay locked in when in auto position. everything stays locked while in manual and 4x4 works fine, but in auto the hubs wont stay locked while spinning. I was trying to find the problem when i noticed that one hub stays locked all the time and the other locks and unlocks as it should but it wont stay locked while spinning. My question is do I have two bad hubs or is their a leak that wont let the hub stay locked? Also on the hub that wont unlock is this a leak problem as well or a internal problem?
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Well long story short, I had the the factory hubs in my 04 f-350 and I was driving down the road and it started making this horrible popping noise. So I pulled over and couldn't find anything and just curiosity locked in the hubs and all was fine. Made me think my hubs were bad, so I went and bought the warren premium hubs, installed them. Went for a drive and still the same noise is there when they are in free spin. But once they are locked in its fine. What this could be? Wheel bearings?
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06 f150 4x4 when locked in 4 hi or low front doesn't spin and there is a clanking..... not sure what to check first.... u joints look OK....
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I've recently had a small issue with my truck missing under hard load. If you're going around 40 MPH and push it down like merging it will kick back and forth and sputter and then start hitting fine again after a few seconds and move on. Possibly bad sparkplugs and/or wires?
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On my 2008 f250 I can not turn the hubs without a set of pliers...does that mean I need new hubs....
What auto tranny do I have with the 5.4.. is it a six speed...
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I have an 06 F150 2wd with the 5.4. Today on my way home I had to cross traffic while getting on the highway and had to get on it a bit. When I gave it the gas the truck down shifted then just fell on it's face until I let off the gas a little then it sped up like normal. It normally runs great but I don't get on it much. I just don't see why It runs great until I try to get a move on.
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So I noticed the past few days my 09 F250 was clunking in the front end when turning hard even with the hubs in auto so I knew there was an issue in there somewhere. This morning I took the jack and found the passenger side would not release no matter which way the lock was turned. Pulled the locking assembly out and found a couple of the pieces of plastic cage broken (truck has 250k miles) which is to be expected I guess but the locking ring that holds the inner piece that slides over the axle stub was off and hanging next to the c-clip on the axle.
So with the plastic of the cage already being broke and the mileage on the truck it's clear I need a new lock for that side.
Here's my dilemma, I have to deliver a conference room table 200 miles away tomorrow morning that they need for meeting tomorrow afternoon at 3:00pm. I cut the rest of the plastic pieces and took the gears out leaving just the cover with the diaphragm and put it back on the hub. I can't come up with any logical reason why I can't drive the truck this way but just want to bounce it off the experts here before I take off on a 400 mile trip in the morning. The only thing I can come up with is if I were to engage the 4wd the vacuum might suck the auto-lock diaphragm in and pop it but otherwise I can't find any reason to not run it this way, the hub is still sealed up and free-wheeling just like if it were in 2wd anyway.
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A relative's '04 EX Limited is having an odd problem. He put it in "4x4 Low" to back a trailer into a barn and after the task was complete the transfer case wouldn't shift out of low range. He tried multiple times and after about 5 minutes of fiddling around with it, it shifted into 4-Hi but wouldn't go back to 2-Hi. The hubs are in the "auto" position and will not manually unlock (the selector turns). 4x4 indicator on dash is not lit. Could the dash switch be bad? Why would the transfer case and hubs act up at the same time?
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I have been recently told that it is bad to drive my F350 with the manual hubs locked when I do not have it in 4 wheel drive mode. There are times when plowing snow that the roads are cleared but I am still plowing driveways. I do not want to travel with 4 wheel engaged in the scenario. So I would just disengage 4 wheel and travel to next stop. Is this a bad procedure?
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I have a 06 f-150 crewcab and the driverside front window is having a hard time rolling up. It goes down fine, but getting it back up you have to play with the switch for a while and then it will roll up. Having this issue? Is it the switch or the window motor?
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Had a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
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When I park over night while in 4x4, the next morning my hubs are disengaged and I have to manually lock them. There is an apparent slow/slight leak in the vacuum system. What would be the usual suspect, so I can start at that point?
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I am thinking on installing a shutoff in the vacuum line that supplies the hubs so I can use 4LO for backing uphill with a trailer without having the hubs engage. Its either that or a switch to disable the PVH solenoid.
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Having issues with the vacuum falling off to the hubs when driving and light throttle. I know makes no sense,but kept fighting this thing making vary harsh rubbing sound since I bought it used and I know its the little collar on the back side of hub that engages to hub to make the 4x4 connection but it looses vacuum when driving and very light throttle/load.
I verified using a vacuum gauge ran inside vehicle when driving. Checked all lines and hubs,everything good. Solenoid has vacuum when running but seems to quit when light load or throttle and as soon as vacuum falls off then the collar starts to engage and rubs but doesn't fully engage. I don't get it. Unless there's something on the computer side of it shutting off the solenoid or something.
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Warn Premiums, installed them and now the 4x4 is engaging, but still have a grinding issue. When the hubs are locked and the switch is in 2 wheel drive, the frond end is grinding, if I switch it to 4 hi, the grinding goes away.
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Its a 2016 F-250, 6.2L gas truck with the electronic shift on the fly transfer case.
I have put right at 22,000 miles on it like this, frequently at 70-80 mph.
What are the odds I have damaged it and is there anything I should do now that I discovered it - other than put them both in "AUTO".
Truck has been to the dealer twice and not once was this noticed. They blamed the squealing on the brakes which I knew it wasn't.
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