Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: FX4 - Continuous Chiming From Under The Dash When Driving
Dec 18, 2014
I have an 04 F150 FX4, I was driving it and starting continuously chiming from under the dash. The chime was the same as the low fuel light but was repetitive. I assumed it to be a warning and I started watching my gauges to find my voltage dropping. So I rushed it back home and couple miles out the dash, radio, accessories, etc power went out in what I assume to be a power save mode.
I get it back home and turn it off. I go to attempt to restart it and no crank. I think ok maybe my alternator went out, so I jumped the battery off my car and still no power. When I mean no power, truck is getting proper voltage but when I turn the key to attempt to start there are still no cranking, no dash/radio/windows. I noticed two things: ABS light blinks different codes but nothing consistent, and secondly the anti-theft light when turning to start blinks rapidly.
I believe this is unrelated to the problem, but my clock spring broke few months back. Since the anti-theft light blinks rapidly i'm assuming the PATS system is not communicating with the key. I only have one key for the truck. I check every fuse, swapped relays in fuse panel on passenger side and everything looked good. I called a locksmith who can cut and program keys and he called his technical support and said he doesn't believe that two new programmed keys will solve the problem.
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I have an 05 Freestar with no instrumentation and no error codes. None of the gauges work and most of the warning lights are lit when the truck is running. No A/C and no ABS while driving and turn signals work, but do not display on the dash. It appears that two separate code readers are not acknowledging the computer. The battery and alternator check out good and there is no drain on the battery when ign switch is off.
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1988 Bronco II - 2 days ago while driving my check-engine light came on for about 5 seconds, though there were no apparent drivability issues, then went away and did not come back for the remaining 20 or so miles home. Then yesterday while driving to a destination the engine cut out a few times. Gauges and such stayed illuminated but the engine lost power as if it wasn't getting fuel or spark. It occurred randomly over a 3 minute period: 1 second bogging, then 10 seconds powering, 3 bogging, 20 powering, 2 bogging... I depressed the clutch to check if the engine could idle and it stalled. Then I restarted the truck and drove 5 miles home with no issues or check engine light and even driving for a minute at WOT would not make the issue remanifest. I did not drive it today for fear of breaking down and I hope to get this solved before taking it on the road again.
I read the following codes:
KOEO: 11 (passes)
Continuous Memory: 22: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or BARO sensor out of range.
KOER: 11 (passes)
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i have a continuous Check Engine light in my 2008 ford explorer. Dealer recommend replacing a sensor but I do not know which sensor to change.
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I confirmed that my trial subscription to XM satellite is active, but I get no reception. The antenna light on the dash keeps blinking. AM/FM reception is fine.
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Having issue where you get a continuous whistling while under normal driving conditions. I recently went to stage 3 Revo software using the Stasis Revo K04 upgrade kit, installed professionally. Have looked at all possible sources of the whistling, have narrowed it down to the the turbo itself. Can hear the car whistling from a good distance away from it. when not moving if I rev the engine i can reproduce the whistle as well, just not sustained. As soon as you press the throttle above 2400 RPM it starts whistling and continues to whistle as long as throttle is pressed. Car is almost un-drivable because of whistle.
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2005 F250 superduty 5.4l crewcab. When I shut the truck off and remove the keys from ignition, the chime keeps going off like the keys are still in the ignition until I turn the ignition back to the off position again.(about 1/8 of an inch.)
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When the defrost button is on, my Vibe makes a continuous vibrating noise that stops if you hold your hand on the button constantly while driving. The defrost has to be constantly on as even in good weather, the windows fog up. The dealer wants upwards of $700 to get into the dash and explore. I'd settle for just getting rid of that noise.
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I have a 2004 F-150 Non Heritage. The 4WD was working fine last year and is not working now. The light on the dash comes on and I do seen to be getting vacuum at the hub but it is not engaging. Several months prior to using the 4WD I did do some front end work and must have knocked the vac line off. It was off for several months, I reinstalled it and it is still not working.
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I have 08 F150 that the 4x4 is not working on.The light on the dash comes on and I can hear the transfer case engaging.I checked to make sure that I have vacuum to the switch under the hood and that the vacuum line going down to the front diff is holding vacuum.I'm just not sure how it engages the diff.
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I bought my 2004 F150 about a year and a half ago and the cruise has never worked. I have checked the fuses (02, 14, 15) and all are good. I tried the diagnostic route with holding the off button but no cruise light ever comes up on the dash. You do have to push the brake to move out of park.
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About 45 seconds after start up Battery light on dash illuminates. Gauge shows in good range. Fluke meter across battery terminals reads 14.2 - 14.4 volts at idle with lights on high beam. No TDC's.
Truck is new to me, engine was replaced recently so I did do a check of harness connections with no problems found, what I should check next ?
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2007 F150 Lariat.. I cannot get disc 1 to eject from the changer. It will eject the other 5. It starts to eject disc 1, I can see the edge of the disc, then it just reloads it.
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I have a switch under the dash that Im not quite sure what it does. I have an 07 XLT supercrew. Has the factory alarm I imagine. My brother has the same year, but no switch. Doesn't seem to do anything, tried to trace wires, the seem to join up with some other wires under neath the steering console area.
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Got a new 2008 F150 King Ranch. Great running truck with a lot of "stuff". But now the bad. Got about 5 blocks from the dealer and the tire comes on the dash. Sure enough the rear drivers side tire is getting low. 1st thought I'd load it with some Slime but decided to take it to a tire store as we found a screw stuck in the tread. Turns out the screw was too far out on the tread to be patched.
I bought a new tire instead of going after a plug kit and driving a few more miles before replacing all tires. Drove home. Went for a short drive today and now the TPMS fault is showing on the dash. Little yellow tire blinking. Finally got home and checked all the tires. The lowest was the front drivers side at about 38 PSI. So did the tire store mess up my TPMS system or is something else going on?
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2004 Lariat ... My cruise isn't working, won't even come (no light on dash). I tried the self test where you turn the ign on with the E-brake on and try holding the cruise off button to enter some kind of diag mode but it didn't work. I found a video on youtube where a mechanic replaced some pressure switch on the master cyl but my master cyl doesn't have what the video showed. I read somewhere about the 3rd brake light having something to do with it. FWIW, my 3rd brake light does not work.
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I recently purchased an 07 f150 lariat leveled 4x4. I noticed the other day that all at once, the abs light and parking brake light came onto the dash, 4x4 low doesn't work and just stays in high and the ac doesn't blow cold. I'm assuming this is somewhat connected considering this all happened at once but really just not sure.
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I have had my 2004 F150 for 2 years now and the dash display has never worked properly. For a winter project I would like to fix it. So far I have deducted that it is not the bulb behind the panel because if I slide the dimmer switch to turn the interior light on the dash is lit up like a Christmas tree.....like it should be....but, I have to slide the dial down to turn off the interior dome light and the dash is veeerry dim. It is annoying as all get up. Is there a way to replace the dimmer switch with a strickly on/off for the dash lights? I don't see why the dash dimming is even an option.
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Shut my truck off, now it won't start. Turn key to start position all proper lights appear on dash. No clicks,no nothing. Replaced a relay which owners manual shown as starter solenoid, man at auto parts said it was fried. Put new relay in still no change. checked everything I could find w/ ignition,starter,solenoid ,etc. fuses relays, according to pictures in owner's manual, they all appeared to be ok. Never,ever had any problems with this truck and charging system is working,IE: battery isn't shot.
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My 2004 F150 has a weird bug related to the seat belt sensor - it only reads the seat belt condition when the truck is first started, then ignores it the rest of the time. Not a big deal so long as I remember to buckle up before starting it. I tried to do the routine of turning off the chime, but because it doesn't read the seatbelt condition after the key is in the run position, it can't be performed. Likewise, if I start the truck buckled up and then unbuckle once its running, the seatbelt light does not illuminate on the dash. Certainly an easy enough work around, though rather odd. It's not a symptom of anything else, is it?
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2004 Excursion 4x4 6.0. I just had the fuel injectors & wiring harness replaced and it runs great, but after 30 minutes of driving the complete dash lights/gauges stopped working. I found that the #45 10amp fuse had blown so replaced it and after 20 minutes the same thing happened. While it was working all of the lights & gauges seemed to be working okay. This doesn't effect anything else, still starts & runs okay, turn signals work, head lights work, but the head light auto on/off doesn't.
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