I have an exhaust leak on the passengers side of my 2006 F-150 5.4 triton. If I do the repair which is the correct way to do it? Do I replace just the blown out gasket?
Do I need to buy a new exhaust manifold and gasket kit, with exactly what parts should I buy in the kit? Or do i need to replace both sides?
2004 SCrew, FX4, 5.4 ... I had the dreaded exhaust manifold leak on the passenger side. After reading the horror stories of this repair and living in the rust belt I decided against fixing it myself. I took it to a local repair shop to have done. Initially the mechanic could see that the front 2 studs were snapped off (before even trying to remove them).
After a full day of fighting the studs (engine loose & lifted up) everything is out but the front 2 studs. the top one has about 1/2" exposed, but it is frozen in place (penetrate on it overnight). The biggest problem is the bottom stud. it is broken off about 1/8" below the surface of the head. The guy doesnt have a small enough right angle drill to get between the frame & head to attempt to drill it out. I will gladly go buy a drill for him to do this, as it will likely save me money if it will work to drill out the stud.
Need to get the 2 studs out, particularly the bottom one, or what right angle drill may fit in there?
My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
View 1 Replies2005 Supercrew and my passenger side exhaust manifold was leaking. Son of a mother duck that was a joke to get removed. Front two studs broke off about 1/4" below the surface. Manifold is not cracked but putting a straight edge across it's out of plane at least a quarter inch.
Had planned on the dorman manifold but read some poor reviews about it cracking in less than a year and being warped out of the box. There is an ATP manifold with very few reviews but all good. Or just bite the bullet and do shorty headers? The driver's side looks a lot easier to access.
These trucks really weren't designed to be worked on after assembly were they? I had to invent new cuss words. Looks like Ford manifold is disco'd...
I have an 06 with a 5.4 with 70k on it and I have already had to do the exhaust manifolds twice, once covered by warrantee at 19k, then again around 40k and now at 74k I have a major leak from the left side manifold again
View 1 RepliesMy 2006 F150 Lariat screw has a passengers side water leak that runs down under the passengers side dashboard on to the fuse box , electrical connections , etc... My rug is soaked ....
I thought it was the ac / defroster condensation drain issue covered in the TSB and did that fix ( not an easy job ! ), but that's not it. I sprayed water on the passengers side windshield and watched it leak on the inside. I broke down and took it to the dealership and they can't find the leak . They still have my truck ! They don't think it's a windshield leak and I don't either .
We bought the X like almost year an a half or two years ago. Since the day we bought her shes had an exhaust leak on the pass side. Ive been a mechanic forever and it didn't bother me at purchase. Well I finally get around to it this last weekend. My son and I get to repairing her on saturday. Well we got manifold off with the intention of ordering a new set of headers. Well Luke talks me into just replacing the broken stud (got lucky only had 1 on the pass side). And replacing the gasket. So I took the manifold to get resurfaced,got the new studs and gaskets.
We reassy everything. It went well, start her up and wow shes finally quiet. I love it. So were sitting there admiring our work (took most the day as we had to drive 40 minutes away 1 way to get parts and angle drill alone). As were sitting there chattin for 5 minutes im like do you hear that.....Its getting louder luke WTF.....WELL IN 5 MINUTES THE DAMN LEAK IS BACK... It sounds like its back at the original place but while listing with a hose it sounds like its also at the y pipe. But the sound can be traveling......
I def am not a fan of Autozones felpro gaskets but they have worked in the past. But they look NOTHING like the factory units but still should work. Well I searched all weekend and read tons of posts on what to get. As I def want to replace the y pipe also. In the end said ok,what the hell. I just got off the phone with BANKS. I ordered headers,y pipe,gaskets,etc. I didnt want to spend that much but after pricing headers (from all manuf's and a new y pipe) the BANKS complete system wasn't much more...
Kit should be here tomorrow or wed at the latest. And I just want my X to be exhaust leak free. Im not big on taken pics during install of stuff but ill try and ill post up after it done.
Should I attempt to replace the passenger side manifold with what I can get from Napa. I would rather pay 100 bucks for everything and do it myself. But, Im concerned about replacing the studs. From what I have read the studs seam to be the problems for most leaks on these vehicles. I have torque equip. and other tools to do the job. Just want others opinions about this project. How hard really is it? 1999 5.4L F250 SDuty....
View 14 RepliesI just finished installing a new turbo (shaft play and lots of oil in the compressor side), RR up-pipes, and T500 (250k and once had a very long crank to get the ICP up to start).
Anyway, except for another exhaust leak at the pass side up-pipe to manifold, it seemed to run okay but with lots of white smoke. I only have about 50 miles after the install, when it suddenly starting surging and made a lot of loud knocking noises. This then went away and came back again rather quickly. I was close to home, so I made back under power. I also received the two codes listed. My IPR is original, but two summers ago I installed the IPR re-seal kit. Everything on the IPR looked good when it came off for the T500.
After reading around, I saw that low fuel pressure / air in fuel can cause problems. I connected a pressure gauge to the pre-filter port on the filter housing, and got 40psi at idle. I then took a diesel shower and blew out the fuel line into the tank. After re-connecting it, the fuel pressure stayed the same but the engines idles much better, but still has blue smoke. It's the original fuel pump (to me anyway) and original fuel line connections.
I have about 3/4 tank, and no place to put it, so I'd need to run it out for the Hutch mod, or least to get in there and inspect. Would eliminating the Ford connections at the pump be worthwhile for now, and is 40psi at idle adequate? Wondering if it's time for a fuel pump?
Truck has 107 thousand miles; had to take it in for an manifold exhaust leak. Mechanic said bolts are so rusted they break.
1) was there ever a ALERT from ford about these bolt's?
2) Thought i read ford had stainless bolts for this problem...
I've had F150's only since the mid 70's and this 04 has cost me more in repairs than ANY previous F150..
I was just changing the oil on my wifes 2008 Escape and noticed a oil leak. At first I thought it was an oil pan gasket,But its higher than that. Then I thought maybe an axle boot but it's also higher than that. It's on the passenger side about the middle of the engine right under neath the biggest pulley.
Its a cylinder shape mold coming off the engine about an inch long with a bolt on the end of it. I'm not seeing oil any higher than that and seems to be coming from there from what I can see. Is this something common with the Escapes?The truck has 55,650 miles on it and this is the first issue so far.The wifes first escape we traded for this was an 01 with 200,000.
Well lately I haven't driven my truck much. Usually only on the weekends if Im lucky. Well I drove it today and I noticed this weird noise on acceleration. I have the cam phaser tick and have had that for about 50k miles or so. I started to think I was getting a manifold leak and that's what I thought this noise was until when I pulled over and put it in park and revved it up I did not hear the noise again.
It only does it when you hit the gas until you get to a steady rpm. I only drove 5 miles or so. So I couldn't do much testing cause its late and I got to get up in 4 hours. I don't even know how to explain the noise. It kinda sounded like an exhaust leak but it was more of like a lite thud noise I guess. Like I said it only does it when I hit the gas when its in drive but not in park. I tried to explain it the best I could. I just hope its not phaser problems cause I don't want to dump a bunch of money into it.
My 05 Gx has the infamous manifold exhaust leak on the driver side. I'm planing to change it myself I don't think it should be that tough.
View 2 RepliesTransmission Oil leak ... I have a 2008 Sonata 2.4 Auto 60,000 miles just noticed a small transmission leak it isn't leaking much but is definitely there its around mainly the passenger side of transmission area close to drive shaft but is hard to pin point.
View 10 RepliesI've got an '04 1.8t jetta with 158k on the clock. Recently noticed I have a coolant leak on the passenger side of the car. Started the car in my driveway and looked for drips and found coolant collecting in the front valence right underneath the intercooler. Took a look from the top and noticed the hose going into the bottom of the part shown in the picture is leaking like a sieve. It's the metal canister-type thing on the passenger side right next to the radiator. What part this is? And where I can get a new hose that connects to the bottom of it?
View 11 RepliesTruck-2005 F-150 XLT 5.4L - Currently when my truck reaches a speed of 45mph+ there is a methodical knocking sound that comes from the passenger side dash. This sound is on the interior and comes from the far right corner of the dashboard.(almost as if someone is tapping with there finger every other second). There is no correlation with anything else being turned on or off that affects this sound.(i.e. air) It simply happens once I reach a certain speed and is not an outside noise. When I slow back down under 45 mph the knocking subsides.
View 3 Replies1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
2005 ford f150 Fx4 So last Friday I started hearing a grinding noise from the passenger side front of my truck. sounded like metal on metal. So I started rooting around and noticed that bottom ball joints were shot. so replaced bottom ball joints on both side. I aslo replaced wheel bearing hub assembly on both sides, still heard the grinding. So I noticed that both axles were slinging grease, so I replaced them on both sides.
Still heard the grinding noise. So then I removed everything from the passenger side and noticed that the locking hub actuator was grinding both axle and the wheel bearing hub. So I just got done replacing that on the passenger side, put it all back together, and still grinding noise ringtones free. Also replaced the 4wd solenoid that they said gets water in it, and I replaced the check valve. And I put new Rotors and breaks. What it could be?
2007 F-150 reg cab 4x4 One thing after another.Light in the middle of the dash says "passenger side airbag off". Never used to be on?
View 5 RepliesMy passenger side window is getting slower to roll up. Started with it being a tenth of a second slower. Now I'm at about two seconds. It's only a matter of time before it stops all together.
View 3 RepliesTruck-2005 F-150 XLT 5.4L ... Problem - Currently when my truck reaches a speed of 45mph+ there is a methodical knocking sound that comes from the passenger side dash. This sound is on the interior and comes from the far right corner of the dashboard.(almost as if someone is tapping with there finger every other second). There is no correlation with anything else being turned on or off that affects this sound.(i.e. air) It simply happens once I reach a certain speed and is not an outside noise. When I slow back down under 45 mph the knocking subsides.
View 7 Replies