Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Engine Started Randomly Bogging Down Slightly With Cruise On
Apr 24, 2012
Here is the case. I drive a 150 mile trip once a week, mostly 60-65 mph highway. Well in the last 3 months it started randomly bogging down slightly with the cruise on. I can be going along and its like a strong gust of wind hits the truck from the front. It will make the engine bog then it like releases or frees up and the truck carries on.
I also noted on my edge evo (not programmed just plugged in for the gauges) that it shows the engine load shoot from about 30% cruising to about 80% when it have its issue then on the sort of POP release the load goes back down to the normal range. The entire bog down only lasts about 3-5 seconds and I can power out of it by pressing the gas. It may happen 15 times on the trip may only happen once or twice...very random...
Things I have tried
Replaced plugs and COPS
Replaced FPDM
Cleaned MAF and TB
Replaced Air Filter
Changed Oil
Fuel Filter changed in November
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I have a 04 heritage f-150, V6 I bought a month ago. Truck ran fine till tonight. Got in to start it, the engine started to crank and everything went dead except for a busing click some what like a turn signal. When I raised the hood the light weakly flashed in time with the buss. I checked the cables, clean and tight. The click came from the #2 ( I think) relay. I wiggled it and it stopped and the lights came back on but when I turned the lights on it all started again. The book says the #2 relay is for the PCM. Don't tell me the computer is out!
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I have a f 150 2006 4.2 liter (basic truck standard) 60.000 km. Yesterday the engine just started chugging and quit I changed the fuel filter. I turned the engine over and the pump did not work when the filter was off so i pushed the emergency shut off button still nothing one question is i pushed the button in it didn't click or anything is that how it works? I have checked all the fuses and grounds what would cause the fuel pump not to work? Or what should I check next?
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Just had the unfortunate scene of seeing the engine light go on but I knew something has been up for a couple weeks just couldn't figure it out but today when I came to a stop my car starts revving slightly without me doing anything and when in park the rpms just increase slightly not alot.
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I have a 2005 STX with the 4.6L, 4WD, AT.
The engine has started to make a loud whining sound recently. I replaced the belt and tensioner since it was original and had 93,000 miles on it. The sound is still there.
The sound increases with rpm but doesn't change when you turn the steering wheel.
The engine starts and runs smoothly with plenty of power.
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I have a 2008 F150 with a 4.6 litre in it. Last year I dropped a couple of plugs and had a factory new, second generation 4.6 installed. The motor only has about 25,000 on it while the rest of the truck has about 160,000. I was driving back roads in western Mass and went over a small, about four inches deep, pothole. I was driving about 35 miles per hour.
I didn't get any associated master warning lights. The RPM started rolling back from about 1700 to 0, and when they got to 0, the engine shut off. There was no previous sign of a fuel pump going bad, or of a bad fuel filter, which is also less than a year old. The truck has plenty of electrical power and turns over strong but won't start.
I checked the #9 fuse as identified in the manual but couldn't find an actual relay for the fuel pump, so I'm assuming it just has the 20 amp fuse which was good by the way. I'm thinking that the fuel pump would have given a few warning signs, but maybe not.
I did check the emergency fuel shutoff switch to make sure that it had not activated when I hit the pot hole and unless I'm resetting it incorrectly, it doesn't seem to have been set off.
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2006 F150 Triton 5.4 Motor... It's been over a months journey with fixing this truck....
How it started: had an oil change, a while back, on long drive after, check engine light started flashing as I accelerated up hill so I pulled over and in a while it was ok, but couldn't get on the gas too much, or it would cause that flashy light thing.
So fast forward to now, after driving it with an intermittent miss for a while, was driving it to work and the miss became a shudder, and she stopped going over 30-40, and runs extremely rough.
Steady but loud idle.
Replaced all plugs with motocraft plugs and new coils all around. No change.
Finally hooked it up to a computer and got random misfires, now it's saying
P0174 bank 2 too lean,
But it's bank ONE that's the only side misfiring.
Here are the freeze frame details:
Frame 1 Mod $00
MIL Status Off
Troub Code P0174
Abslt TPS 24.3%
Eng speed 1665
Baro PRS 71 kpa
Calc Load 100%
[Code].....
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I have a 2007 an at about 52mph the truck has a slight but irritating bounce (up an down) an after a while sickening. It maybe felt it was coming from the rear. So I had the rear tires balanced an the guy said my right rear tire had a bend to it. Well assuming that the balancing fixed the problem it did not. So I'm going to put on the spare to see if it still bounces what else should I do?
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Recently when I leave my driveway which only has a slight grade to it my truck makes a clunking sound when I hit the gutter and while turning slightly. Also my front drive line from transfer case to front axle has some play in it. I can rotate the front drive line about 3/4" to an 1" while parked in the driveway. Changing u joints. I figured this would be a good starting point. 2005 XLT 4x4 5.4L F150.
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I bought a '05 F-150 with a 5.4 with 112k miles on it a few months ago. It had been sold from an auction, looked really clean, and a good price. Not long afterward it started having issues with running rough at idle. That's when I found this forum and began reading. Tried different things but it only got worse and finally had a shop look at it. Cam phasers were not doing well. Not a cheap fix but more involved engine work than I had ever done so I had them do the work.
It ran fine for a few days and then the idle rumble came back slightly and the check engine light (CEL) came on. I read the code and it came back with a number that indicated air flow was an issue. Internet search said to clean the throttle body. Some threads on this site also said do the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor while I was at it. Much has changed since I used to work on cars as a kid. Everything has it own cleaner. I cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. Cleaned the throttle body with throttle body cleaner (it was beyond filthy) and a toothbrush. Put it all back together (started late and it was dark by now) and took it for a quick run to see how it had improved. Instead of smooth, it started running even rougher, and within 100 yards went into fail safe mode. Now my mood is getting darker. Park it and go inside to watch the Aggies in their bowl game.
Good game but the truck is still running rough and I am losing confidence in my ability to do simpler things on it. I get up the next day and run codes on it. It had three codes all pertaining to air flow or the throttle position. I am thinking I screwed up the throttle setting somehow when cleaning or maybe only put the MAF sensor in upside down (that seemed unlikely since the screws only seemed to line up in one orientation). So I open the hood to check the MAF sensor just in case and find to my embarrassment that, in the dark, I failed to plug the MAF sensor back in. The problem was a loose screw holding the tools. I plug the sensor cable onto the sensor and take it for a ride. It runs great. Life is good. MPG is climbing higher on the onboard display. My confidence is returning even after humbling mistakes. After everything, I still love this truck.
So, now for the tune-up advice. The truck runs well but still rumbles slightly. Based upon everything, I believe it was well cleaned before it sold but maybe not fully serviced. Spark plugs were possibly never done. I intend to do a tune-up on it but do not know what has already been done so I'll assume almost nothing. The air filter looks brand new. The serpentine belt has nicks so that will be on the list. I am thinking of changing the following:
Spark plugs
Spark plug boots
fuel filter
serpentine belt
PCV valve
Oil was changed when the cam phaser work was done. So the advice really boils down to a question:
Is there anything else I should consider changing or doing or cleaning? I have not worked on cars much in the last 30 years but am beginning to enjoy it again.
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Ok, I have a 2006 Ford f-150 5.4L engine. it has 88000 miles on it. Here recently it has started acting up on me. It starts shaking violently when I slightly accelerate going up hills at any speed. On level ground it doesn't do it. Going down hill it doesn't do it. When stopped it doesn't idle rough.
It does this shaking when I barely press the gas. When it starts I either let off the gas or I push the gas to the floor and it stops. What is going on? This is the first Ford I have ever known. I don't know anything about these vehicles. I have read it might be the coils and plugs but then people have told me it might be the torque converter.
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I noticed a slightly rough ride around 70-80 mph sometimes on interstate a month back but thought it was my scalloped tires that need replacing and ignored it. Last weekend i had to go to MI from GA pulling a small enclosed tandem axle trailer (6x12). I started after work and made it to VA before stopping for the night with no problems not even at 70-80. Fueled up first thing in the morning (BP Fuel) and headed farther into the mountains when the truck started shaking when it should be downshifting (into overdrive I am guessing?)
No check engine light come on so i pulled off the road checked rear end and motor oil everything was fine, topped off tranny which was slightly low but was on dipstick .I let the truck cool for 20 min then got back going again. I continued driving with overdrive off, and not on the truck. Every time it had to downshift under hill climb it would start shaking but i would let out of the gas and it would stop. Once i got out of the mountains it was fine and couldnt tell it was running bad at low rpms, and also drove fine when i got off the interstate for fuel driving in towns.
I drove that whole day through ohio mich and back trough ohio when entering kentucky. It started to downshift and run at high rpms with no problem, and started acting up when i got back into the mountains.When the truck would go to downshift it started to shake uncontrollably again. then is when the check engine light come on and flashed. I babied in until tenn when i stopped at oriellys to hook up to scanner. scanner read misfire on 5 and ignition coil d primary secondary circuit malfunction. I checked the #5 plug (fine) and replaced the #4 coil, and didn't check the #4 plug.
t kept going and it never fixed the problem. stopped and jumped my coils around and check a few more plugs which all were fine but never that #4 (why idk), after being fed up, sat night, no mechanics around and wanting to get home i drove it the rest of the way. it never idled rough until i got almost home in Ga. When i got home the next day i pulled all plugs and all looked brand new still except the #4 which had the whole prong and tip completely burnt off. I replaced it and nothing changed, but my exhaust sounded restricted. Brought to a shop and it is now reading a misfire on 4 (with brand new plug) 5 7 and 8 and also saying it is running lean. They changed fuel filter and plugs but nothing still.
2004, f150, 4.6, 4x4, stx, short wheel base, 3:55
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I have a 2003 ford ranger 2.3 vin d 5 speed, this truck originally... Took it in for wires plugs front brakes fuel filter battery and added a small cold air intake. We discovered a valve cover leak and while repairing guy drops a screw into a valve and when finished he started it lodged the screw between the valve, shearing off a cam sprocket bolt. Throwing the timing. 2 valves on the exhaust side were bent and replaced. no damage to the head.
Timing was reset and the truck was running. 2 days later truck is running/had a hint of exhaust smell then started bogging dying and shaking, at which time we got an 02 bank2 lean code and fixed that. it cleared code and didn't fix it. From there we replaced coil, imrc intake bc of a crack, tried and check all vacuum, reset the timing. Timing would slip before but no longer than 10 minutes every time truck started.
Found the hole in the timing cover that holds the bolt to torque? to harmonic balancer was broke. replaced along with the diamond washers and cam sprocket bolts. timing finally held crank sensor was adjusted. truck came home for one day running good, we had removed the cold air intake and replaced the factory air intake. next day it was so slow outta first gear, you must baby the throttle, if you floor It, it sputters and kinda pops, truck stays slow all the way to about 10 mph and 2000rpm then it begins grabbing speed, 3000rpm is where this truck shifts the best, 2nd is better, third better than that.
As rpm increase the truck runs better, it idles steady at 1100-1200rpm at stops with an audible miss and then struggles again on takeoff. Here what im wondering, the truck has an abs sensor that just came on, but no codes showing now.tomorrow I wil run matko determinator 3.0 on it. and test the catalytic converter. first how do I check the timing belt to see if it stretched? do these trucks store the p.i.d.s. koer or kams that could cause one, all, or any of this and if so do I have to have it flashed from ford or can you manually do this without a drive cycle test.
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When driving my 2006 F150 it drives real smooth until I hit 50, then it feels like I'm driving on a slightly bumpy road, once I hit 55, smooths out again. Only drives strange at 50 mph. Other speeds smooth as glass.
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2006 F150 FX4 5.4L, 118k miles... At highway speeds (45-50) and (55-60) as I am slightly accelerating it feels like the transmission or maybe ignition system is skipping a beat. Kind of feels like a small bump. I replaced spark plugs with motocraft about 35K miles ago and recently all transmission fluid via cooler line. Had some concerns about system flush so I just drained and refilled entire system via cooler lines. I have read that it could be my COP's ...
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I picked up my 2005 F150 4x4 last winter. It has 135k miles & a slight tranny problem.
When cruising around 45 mph - right between where it wants to be in top gear or not - if I slightly accelerate the trans BANGS between the two gears.
I mean repeatedly bangs - it is not a smooth shift where it can't decide which gear to use - it is a hard BANG where it can't decide which gear to be in.
What gives? I can usually stop it if I turn on the towing button - shutting off high gear.
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Well I have a weird thing going on with the anti lock brakes. Its normally more noticeable when its cold. Coming to a slow stop you can feel the anti lock brakes pulsing slightly or more noticeably if you hit a bump braking at slow speed. The only mods to the truck are 285/70/17 inch tires and a leveling kit. Not sure whats going on with it, but i thought i should check here before getting my wallet lightened by the dealership.
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So I was driving my 2004 6.0 auto on the freeway today when the tow haul light randomly started flashing, nothing felt wrong until I stopped, then when I went to pull away it wouldn't shift down from 5th according to my livewire ts says under the commanded gear gauge. It shifts into 6 and overdrive fine. I turned the truck off, the light went off but as soon as I put it in drive it jumped around from 1-2-5 and back down until it locked in 5 again and the light started flashing again. What this could be?
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All, i have an issue ( or at least i think its an issue) with my 99 f150 5.4. When i use my cruise control, i notice when i put on the brakes slightly to slow down, it feels like its not coasting because you can feel the engine still engaged and wont coast. I think this happens even without the cruise on. What this could be? I have the latest update on the cruise control harness. I believe that was for power always to it even in off, causing fires.
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How to add factory cruise to my 2005? I am hoping it is as simple as swapping the steering wheel and having dealer turn on cruise in the PCM.
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I'm having issues with my a/c blowing randomly warm air. At idle (stop lights, heavy traffic) the cold air will kick off but the fan will remain constant. Once I'm back up to full speed, the cold air will come back. It also works if I turn the a/c and fan off for a few minutes and turn it back when I'm at highway speed. I've recharged it and when it blows cold it will freeze me out. I'm thinking its a possible compressor issue?
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